Originally Posted by Stacygifford (Post 545864)

***Disclamers, Some these modifications are Illegal, and should not be done on any road going vehicles. This is for Educational purposes only!! If not properly implemented, changing an engines Air/Fuel ratio can have Catastrophic effects on your cars motor!!!***


This will be a short write up on how to install an Innovate Motorsport MTX-L wide band o2 sensor/controller in place of the original O2 sensor on a 92-95 Acura integra.
This will be almost exactly the same process on all OBD1 Honda/Acura 4 cylinder cars. (with the exception of the Civic VX**)

OBD0 and OBD2 cars will have to splice a different wire at the ecu.

The reason for doing this is multi purpose:
First, more accurate fuel metering on both stock and modified engines.
Second, the ability accurately to monitor fuel conditions.
***Third, the "option" of doing a lean burn conversion on a non lean-burn car

What you will need:
Various tools:
10mm wrench
Philips screw driver (No.2)
Flat head screwdriver
Wire crimps/cutters/strippers
22mm(7/8") wrench
Ect.

Innovate Motorsports MTX-L Advanced Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
2x Add a circuit fuse adapters
Wire of various colors (I used 16 gauge, it only needs to carry 3A)
5A fuse
1A fuse
Various Electrical connectors,
Zip ties
Optional:
Hole saw
Gauge pod/ some other way to mount the gauge
Heat shrink
10A 30OHM resistor

Lets get started,
1 Disconnect the battery. ALWAYS (I removed for ease of access later)

https://preview.ibb.co/nwinC5/20170724_160459.jpg

Remove some interior panels so that you can run wires from the gauge location to the ecu.
https://image.ibb.co/m0Yb5Q/20170724_141516.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/mcTLX5/20170724_141633.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/g3nsek/20170724_141518.jpg

I decide to mount the gauge in the location of the factory interior dimmer. I did because it looks good in that location, i never change the brightness of my instrument cluster, and mainly because I broke it trying to take it out

https://image.ibb.co/dYA0X5/20170724_150146.jpg

Insert the gauge, and drop the wires down

https://image.ibb.co/nNUG5Q/20170724_150128.jpg

I have quick disconnects, so that i can use the gauge to tune other cars occasionally.

https://image.ibb.co/eSFOkQ/20170724_152216.jpg

Next run a wire from the red lead to a fuse on ignition switched power.

https://image.ibb.co/mhL0X5/20170724_152229.jpg

Then repeat the process for a fuse on the park light fuse for the wight lead.
Add a ground wire (to the black lead)

Then run a wire from the brown lead, over to the ECU.

Remove the ECU

https://image.ibb.co/kTqdKk/20170724_171043.jpg

On almost all OBD1 Hondas, the wire you are looking for is White with a red tracer, and will be pin#14 on the "D" connector. This will be wasy to find dueto the fact that it is one of the only wires with a Radio frequency shielding on it.

https://image.ibb.co/cYSfX5/obd1_pin_schematics.gif

Splice into the wire and connect the Wide-band controller to the plug side of the wire. I used spade connectors so that i can return the car back to factory easily if need be.

Now, run the Wide band harness from the Gauge, through the firewall.

https://image.ibb.co/cQo9QQ/20170724_161244.jpg

I used one of the factory holes/grommet located next to the battery. It should be noted that i did have to feed the wire FROM the outside because one plug is substantially larger than the other.

https://image.ibb.co/bAtnC5/20170724_161022.jpg

Double check your wiring!!!!

Now, you have a few options,
Either install a resistor to trick the ECU into thinking that the original (heater circuit) is still there
Or keep the original O2 plugged in and zip tie it under the car somewhere safe. (what I did)
Or disable the heater circuit by reprogramming the computer. However, that is a whole thread on its own.

Remove the Factory o2 sensor.

Before installing the new sensor It is important to calibrate it.

Connect the battery

The calibration procedure requires that the oxygen sensor be in free air, this
means removed from the exhaust system completely.

1. With the sensor disconnected, apply power to the MTX-L.
When power is applied, all three digits will light up and the needle bar will
sweep once through all LEDs. Then the status light will turn red and the
numeric display will read “E2”. This is an error code, indicating that no
sensor is detected. Leave unit powered on for minimum 30 seconds.

2. Power down the MTX-L and attach the oxygen sensor using the
cable provided. When making these connections, make sure they
are fully seated and locked. Again, make sure that the sensor is in
free air (not in the exhaust).

3. Power up the MTX-L.
Again, the display should ‘sweep’, but instead of an error, the display will
display “Htr”. This indicates that the sensor is being heated up to
operating temperature. After 30-60 seconds, the display will switch from
“Htr” to “CAL”, indicating that the sensor is being calibrated. A few
seconds later, your MTX-L will begin displaying AFR. Since the sensor is
in free air, the gauge will default to the upper limit of 22.4.
Done with calibration

Remove the battery.

Screw in the new sensor.
As a note the Sensor should be at least 24 inches downstream of the exhaust port outlet.

Re connect your ECU,

RECHECK THE WIRING.

Reconnect the Battery.

FIRE IT UP!!!

If all things Work out, putt the interior back together, and take it for a drive!

https://image.ibb.co/gE3nC5/20170725_130841.jpg

At this point, you have a basically Have a more accurate Narrow band. If you want to go the lean burn route, you will have to plug the Wide-band into a laptop and and boot up the Logworks3 software from Innovate Motorsports (included with the sensor) I will not be going into detail on how to change those outputs, but I will say that the software is very easy to use and that I changed the voltage switching point so that it outputs the equivalent voltage of 14.7:1 at 16:1 Just a little lean, but under load, it ignores the O2 sensor and runs off the mapping of the ecu anyway.

Once my MPGuino comes in, I will be doing an A-B-A test at 60mph Cruising at a few different AFR'S. I will need to be able to tune the ecu (coming soon) to change the ignition timing to really take advantage of Lean burn.

Technically, you "could" program the Yellow Output wire from the Wideband to interface withe the Civic VX ECU as the the LAF ECU input ("D" connector pin #16) however, you would need to find the Voltage curve for the VX sensor... good luck.

Feel free to ask questions!!!.

Originally Posted by freebeard (Post 545940)

The other thing might be what air-baggers call 'laying frame'. You could even have ground anchors mounted in two opposite corners so you could drive onto some bare ground and sink 'em.

Originally Posted by oil pan 4 (Post 545947)

The converter gets loaded up with NOx and the ecu runs the engine rich every so often to regen the anti-NOx catalyst.
With out that regen the converter loads up with NOx and then the NOx blows straight through.
I would just use a normal converter.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...urn-35095.html

Originally Posted by Stacygifford (Post 545991)

I have had idea floating around for a while.
Im not sure if there has been a thread on it....
The thought is to have an arduino as the output to simulate an oxygen sensor using a few input parameters. (rpm via the injector and TPS via the factory sensor 0-5v)

My wideband has a linar voltage output of 0-5v for a 7.4-22.1 AFR value.
V=(50/147x)- 370/147) x being AFR

or .5-1.5λ or V=5λ-5/2
lambda is much easier lol

My thinking is if the rpm is below 1200 or above 3500 lean burn is not really needed so have the o2 sensor output equal to the factory switching point of 14.7:1

In regards to the throttle position
If <5% run at the normal afr.
If 5-11% run the switching-point at 17.5:1 afr
If12-20% run the switching-point at 16.5 afr
if 21-30% run the switching-point at 15.5 afr
If>30% run the switching-point at the normal 14.7 to help avoid detonation
(possibly wright a formula to make it more linear as apposes to having 3 steps)

Obviously these ranges will need to be adjusted with further testing.

Just an idea I'm throwing out there. I just ordered my Mega 2560 and should be in pretty soon.

If anyone has any ideas/suggestions feel free to comment.

Originally Posted by ar5boosted (Post 546270)

I believe the standard O2 sensors generate a sine-wave.

You'll need a DAC or the ghetto-DAC (PWM+Resistor+DAC) to get a sine-wave off and arduino if I understand correctly.

I'm really interested in having the same thing. As now I want to achieve something similar as well. I know that wideband-o2 sensor -> narrowband-o2-sensors convertors can be bought off-the-shelf for hundreds of dollars but where's the fun in that.

Nice work.

Originally Posted by Stacygifford (Post 546782)

If anyone has any sujestions/reccomndations for testing, or even something you would like me to test, be sure to let me know!

Originally Posted by ar5boosted (Post 546794)

Good work.

Well, great work so far. Have you ever considered GPS assisted Ecomodding? This has been on my mind for a little while.

What I mean by this is triangulation of GPS coordinates to activate certain logic. So for example, when going on a known downhill incline, turn off the injectors and shutdown automatically. Then at the start of the incline, have the computer start up again at the correct location.