Another METRO Project
 

To bad your are on the other side of the country, I still have a pile of somewhat desirable Metro parts. Late brakes, sway bars, Neon console, rear wiper setup, a pile of 13" rims...

I don't think you can add pictures until you have posted 5 times. Some people post "test" postings to get up to 5.

Subscribed.

So after 5 posts, I still had to modify my file size as they were way too large.

But here are some pics, this is how it looked on Aug-1-16 when I dragged it in to the garage to get started again.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471124830

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471124830

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471124830

And just 2 days before I was to bring it in we had a slight thunder storm and this happened...
I guess I procrastinated 2 days too many:(

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471124830

Current Status:

-Engine disassembled and block @ machine shop, they will be boring block 0.020", honing and installing new pistons onto factory connecting rods.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667

-Had new windshield installed... @ $255 usd It cost me more than the car!!!:confused:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667

-Modified a '95 Honda Prelude driver seat

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667

I'm 6'-2" so I took this time to set the seat back several inches and angled it to a comfortable long distance riding stance w/ plenty of leg stretch room... even @ my height

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471125667

-Taking this time to also take care of some minor things like hatch struts

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471126672

Weight Reduction PHASE 1

So I purchased a hanging scale because I was curious and wanted to know the actual data... real weight #s rather than guesstimates.

So the scale came in the mail this morning, I've weighed everything I've removed and I have been surprised by the weight of some items, and overall I have been pleasantly impressed with the results...

Total PHASE 1 Weight Reduction = 112.27 lbs.

Here's a list of everything removed, along with the actual weight reduction per item:

A/C System
-complete A/C system + hardware delete (except evaporator) 23.36 lbs
-A/C engine mtg. bracket, hardware & idler pulley 5.95 lbs

Seats
-passenger seat + hardware delete 30.73 lbs
-driver seat replacement mod (12.06) lbs
(this seat mod added weight... but also much needed comfort):thumbup:
-rear seat bottom section + hardware delete 8.60 lbs
-rear seat top section+ hardware delete 16.78 lbs

Seat Belts
-rear seat belts + hardware delete (2lg + 2sm) 5.26 lbs
-rear seat belts cover plastics (2lg + 2sm) 0.25 lbs

Plastics
-kick panel plastics (2) 0.31 lbs
-under door/ entry plastics (LH & RH) 0.62 lbs
-rear seat plastics (LH & RH) 3.26 lbs
-rear trunk area speaker plastics (2) 1.45 lbs
-trunk area /shock tower cover plastics (LH & RH) 2.34 lbs
-trunk area /under rear window/ hatch area plastic 1.40 lbs
-trunk area /hatch plastic 0.94 lbs
-all of the removed plastic mounting hardware 0.25 lbs

Carpetting
-carpet delete 8.41 lbs
-trunk area carpet delete 1.60 lbs
-spare tire hard cardboard cover delete 2.47 lbs
-under spare tire insulation/black plastic matting delete 2.63 lbs
-(2)front & (2)rear factory carpet matts delete 7.73 lbs



A/C systems delete
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471129796

Seats, plastics, carpeting, seat belts & associated hardware delete
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471129796
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471129796

Looking good, and welcome. Luv those metros.

Remove the evaporator, the non air cars use a plastic tube to span the distance, no I don't have one anymore. I have had many Metros including one that dark blue, I do have a perfect hood that color.

I have the hood, but that's the first thing I take off when I'm pulling and engine out, and I just leave it out of my way until I'm done, so I guess that's why it's not pictured. But I do appreciate the offer:thumbup:

As far as the evap. I'm in no rush to remove at the moment. But if I'm ever under the dash then I'll consider it, it may come in handy at a later time. For now I'm simply going to plug the inlet/outlets and let it be.

I'm loving your project so far, can't wait to see what sort of MPG numbers you get! I would love to pull out my air con but it works really well haha, and it gets bloody hot here in summer!

Thanks for the encouragement... I'm also getting some what anxious to find out what the MPG gains will be also once it sees the road again.

Well... not including power losses, you can keep your a/c and remove your passenger seat... after all the seat weighs more than the complete a/c system including engine bracket :p

Hmmm good idea, My wife already thinks I'm strange so may as well be consistent! I probably should check the local laws to if it's legal first. It would make carrying 2x4's easier :thumbup:

How much does the Metro weigh in its factory state?

So yesterday I was @ idle... doing mainly web research on some dream list things I'm planning to do to the metro in the not so near future... Also reading some of the endless posts here dealing with all kinds of stuff... aero stuff, electrical stuff, and what not... and interestingly enough there is one project mod that I've had in mind for some time that I don't think I've seen anyone write about or do yet... but haven't read all the posts either... so I'll leave that alone for now until I'm actually ready to do it :eek:

But got tired of research, and since my block is out, and I've done just about everything else to body that I'm going to do to the car at this phase... I was only left with basically two tings I could do, rebuild the trany and drop the gas tank.

So last night I opted for the easier of the two... I dropped the gas tank to inspect internal condition of tank and pump, energized & tested the pump, ohmed out the level sending unit. All was OK! Did not install it last night because I wanted to fetch a strainer and tank gasket... But today I couldn't find one locally and they were to expensive to order anyways. I just cleaned my strainer and reused tank gasket. While I was there I inspect all my fuel and evap hose sections and they were all amazingly in great shape. So I put the tank back in today w/ new fuel filter.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471230329


With the tank back in place I set out to rebuild my trany...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471230329
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471230329

But I ran into two problems... and one dilemma:

1- my harbor freight press (which works great for just about everything else I tinker with) believe it or not will not allow for the dive gearing to fit, plus my plates are to thick... and after a few hours of messing around and modifying stuff I only was able to remove only some of the gears... So decided I better let them be before I damaged them.

I have access to better tooling and plates at my work place, so can do them later in the week if I decide to go that route, not a big deal, but it was very disappointing :( and a big time waster. :snail:

2- while taking the trany case halves apart I was abruptly reminded of the fact that the transmission had a cracked bolt ear on the bottom, where apparently the previous parts donor car driver had trampled over something... either way, I remembered that it did leak during the meager three weeks it ran. So that is an issue that will HAVE to be addressed if I decide to put it back together. I have multiple auto tranys inside the parts car, but of course they have to be different... so no point there.

The other dilemma was that I did not know for sure what my final gear ratio was... so I counted teeth today several times and yes I have 4.10... I knew I was going to rebuild the trany so I have been searching for a 3.52 ring & shaft set for some time now w/o any success... and didn't really want to buy another transmission. But it seems I might have to.

Since I can't weld aluminum I would have to take the case to a machinist I've worked with many times in the past... that wouldn't cost me much, and if I was to find a 3.52 combo for cheap, then I could go that route much more cost effectively... but I cant seem to find them.

So I'm guessing my best bet if to buy a 3.52 trany, and use my rebuild kit on it instead.. What you guys think?

Any one here have a good 3.52 ring and shaft set for sale? :confused:
Or maybe you want to sell me a good 3.52 trany? :rolleyes:

first generation Metros only ('89-'94)
Hatchback Coupe:
Curb Weight(lbs): 1,650/ 1,621(XFi)
1989 thru 1994 Metro Specs

So after weighing my options and actually finding two 3.52 ratio transmissions within "reasonable" price range... I decided to buy into the upgrade... Had to do it at some point during this build.

I found a fairly local 3.52 trany for $400 but no real guarantees other than the Swift it came out of was running when pulled, and no mileage info...

And I found another 3.52 trany across the country in South Dakota, with known mileage, tested, and with 30day warranty, shipped to my door for $300... So I bought it today. :thumbup:

These things are hard to come by, I have been looking for some time now before I started the build without any luck. So I had to jump at it, and I guess $300 for this specific ratio trany is not too terrible compared to other mod prices...

This morning at the early wee hours of the morning... I found this on ebay for $160 shipped. I fell for it and bought it..:o

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471367603

"1.0L. 3Cyl. 1993 Geo Metro XFI Computer 33920-60E63 , XFI Camshaft with cam card from Delta camshafts and timing gear up for sale. All three units are in excellent working condition."

Also today I brought block back from machine shop... They had a bit of an incident with their tooling in the center bore... so they wound up having to sleeve the middle cylinder for free... and they had to deck the block to ensure sleeve install and in the process found that the block itself was warped. They wound up having to shave block an estimated 0.007"-0.010" to be correct warping... The sleeving and decking was free since they were correcting there mishap.

So now I have a fresh 0.020" bore, fresh hone, 1 fresh sleeve, and one more of the 65 mods listed... a shaved block:thumbup:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471368695

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471368695

The down side: Because the block was warped, I had to check the head... and found I have a burn valve...

SO any suggestion on what will be the best option FE wise on my valves? increase diameters? stainless? any other head work suggestions that I should consider since I have to rework head anyways?

When I was considering rebuilding my Metro's engine, I was going to use thermal coatings and dry film lubricants to increase thermal efficiency and reduce pumping losses.

I was planning on using this kit: PEK1 Engine Kit - Assembly Lubricants

With it you can coat tons of stuff. The thermal coating can go on the piston tops, combustion chamber, and valve bottoms. The dry film lube can go on main bearings, cam journals, valve shafts, piston skirts, all to reduce friction. I have no idea how well any of it works, but it sounded good.

Bookmarkt. Thanks.

I've been thinking I might build one more 36hp VW engine. That and some cryogenic tempering would be on the list.

That's a clean Metro!

Bonus! I'm fairly jealous of of your engine, I think I have 1 too many cylinders in my car.....where's my angle grinder.

Daox, thanks for the link... I'll definitely look further into it, just the other day I was thinking about ceramic coating the pistons... but that's a bit more than I wanted to do at this phase, but then again I've done allot more than I was intending to do at this phase in the first place :D

Thanks FreeBeard, it's not too bad... but the roof paint sucks... but then again I can't see it from the drivers seat. :p

Punisher, I don't know why??? You are driving yours ;)...
While mine keeps throwing me costly curve balls :(

So I'm still undecided as on what to do with my cyl. head at the moment.
Decided to take a look at what the spare cylinder heads I have look like and what other parts I have in my "spare parts car" and had forgotten how much stuff I had collected in it...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471452574
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471452574

Surprise, surprise... look what it came with!
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471452574

So in the engine compartment I have several 13" wheels
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471452574

And in the interior I have two blocks, two auto tranys, two heads, manifold sets, misc parts, wiring ecus... and a set of 15" Prelude wheels like the one on the front of the car...
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471452574

The trunk hatch is comprised of another auto tranny, and one manual tranny, and misc. hardware, cams etc...
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471452574

Are you looking for parts?? Spare cams maybe??

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...p;d=1471452570

Was someone building a flywheel-hybrid? ;)

:rolleyes:Just to brake it up a bit...

You may have noticed that on one of the previous pics there was a mazda truck. It's in fact a '90 B2200...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1471498566

I's another one of my builds COMPLETELY on the other end of the FE & power spectrum... But you can check out my thread on this build and a watch her run on the vid below... Tell me what you think.

347 Stroker Turbo thread
You Tube Link of truck running

Nice, shiny front bumper! :)

:D

CYLINDER HEAD UPDATE

Ok, so after 3 days of looking at options and prices... I've decided to bite the bullet, and just repair my head... but not too happy about it :mad:

So a word of advise anyone that is going to do a project of this sort, especially on a rebuild... check your valves early on. If they are burnt, AND if you where planning on upgrading to an XFI or other econo cam anyways...

Then you just might be better off buying a head from
3tech Performance

I have not bought anything from them to date, but I've considered it.

You can buy a cyl. head from an auto parts store... say O'reillys for about $400 w/ core exchange... and you can spec that for an XFI for the same price.

Or for the same prize you can buy one from 3TP... their heads will run you about the same, you will get the expertise, and customization to your specific goals, polished, ported, high grade guides... plus you're helping someone closer to you than a corporation ever will be (unless you work there).

Or... your can do like me and buy an XFI cam for for $160, then find out your head will have to be reworked... and none of your spare heads are any better.

So now, I'm $160 into this head due to the XFI cam.
If I buy a 3TP head it will set me back an extra $400

So my option is to keep trucking forward...
So today I bought a set of nitride coated ex. & int. valves, and set of guides for $65
(& $40 for a set of new lifters-but I had already purchased that earlier as I was going to replace them anyhow)

Now I have to take to machine shop... $55 for resurfacing the head, $66 for a valve grind & lap job ($11/ea), That doesn't include installing the valve guides or the valve guide seals... which I will be doing myself, unless I want to give the machine shop and extra $36 for them to do it.. (although I just might:p)

So now I will have invested $386 -$420 in a run of the mill head... :eek:

Why am I doing it? Because by the time I found the problems it was cheaper to keep'er :(

Save yourself the trouble... Either buy a reman XFI from a parts store... or possibly an even better one from 3TP.

Why not just get a new head from a junkyard Geo?

A junkyard head will never be new...:D
But I do understand your point, and that is a good option for anyone who would like to do a quick repair... A quick swap of heads could put you back on the road quickly.

In my case I am not exactly in a hurry. But beyond that and I'm rebuilding the engine w/ all new components. Putting a junkyard head straight on would not be a wise thing to do unless you take the time to go through it anyways. You would still want to ensure it is flat, that there are no cracks in the coolant passages, and at the very least have the valves vacuum tested and lifters inspected... That's what I was going to do, except w/ new lifters... and found that more needed to be done.

There is a saying that goes something like this: If you don't have the time (or money) to do it right the first time, you won't have the time (or money) to fix it later either...

While you got it apart, there is something that isn't uncommon to gunk up in the oil pump. Something to do with the relief I believe. Just take it apart and clean it.

Thanks Daox, that is a great advice.

In my case the engine block, crank, rods, & pickup tube are the only things I'll be reusing internally on the lower-end, everything else is new and I have the parts already, just need to get to assembling sometime soon hopefully.

I lost steam with the head issue... But on the cylinder head end of things everything will be new as well, except the head itself, springs and retainers... and the cam will be different, although not new.

So I've been waiting on the cyl. head parts I ordered to show up.. that's held me up for about a week... So this past Tuesday the nitride treated valves & guides showed up.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1472309465

The 3.52 tranny showed up that same day too..
(not much to see here) :rolleyes:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1472309465

So Wednesday morning I took the head to the engine machine shop I usually use, and they did a full valve job, replaced all the guides, and put in the new guide seals I brought them (their usually always included in any head gasket set you buy)...

The shop also found some pitting cavities that they suspected where located at the sealing area of the gasket, so they asked me to bring the gasket in. After sizing the gasket we found the that the two cavities in questions extended across the sealing ring. So it would have leaked compression. So they welded them up and surfaced the head just enough to clean weld.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1472309465

And to top it all off I went to pick up my head Friday, and wen I cam back from machine shop, the XFI cam I had ordered last week was at my door steps waiting for me. :thumbup:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1472309465

So now I have everything I need to build the engine and put the engine compartment back together...
Everything except time :p

Thanks for the inspiration. One Metro list I haunt has had considerable chatter about blocked EGR passages leading to valve troubles. I think those stainless valves are only needed for the turbos, the first love at 3tech. I didn't get a reply from them re: a cam last year, so I hope I have an XFI one in the mail from the US. I assumed it would be a bolt-in, though. What other head mods will I need?

These are noisy little boxes with just a driver's seat, so my audio system is based on ear cans.

Thanks for your comments. The cam replacement is a simple bolt-in swap. No extra head mods are needed to make that transition happen, but there is allot of info out there concerning the modified cam gears that advance your cam timing and that's about the only other thing I would consider when replacing the cam, since it would have to come out anyways to go on your new cam.

Unfortunately I tried to purchase one of these cam gears from 3T and I have yet to hear back after two emails, and 1+ month wait...

OK so I have some updates. So this past weekend had a chance to work on the engine a bit and I went ahead and built the engine.

It's almost finished, only need to clean out the old oil pan gasket and install the oil pan, but engine is built, manifolds on... so I might get a chance this next weekend. But figured I would share a few pics of the progress.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

Main Bearings
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

Gaping Piston Rings
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

New WP & Oil Pump. Ready for Cyl. Head Install
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

New Lifters. Ready for XFI Cam
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1473977893

So from all the info I have read, a TRUE or Factory XFI cam, not only has less lift and duration... but also has a built in 4 degree advance.

Also, I've read that the most recommended for our engines is 10 degrees of cam advance.

The XFI cam that I have might give me problems, but I'm going to try it anyways, and worst case I will just have to swap the factory cam back in until I find another XFI replacement IF it doesn't pan out.

The ""XFI"" cam I received has no wear marks on it, and it came with some receipts from the grind place... but the grind is irregular... I measured it with my micrometer and the lobe height is less than XFI specs by over a thou... and it's not consistent... Cyl.1 Intake lift is less than Exhaust, Cyl. 2 both same lift, Cyl. 3 Exhaust lift is less than Intake...

This sounds like it's going to be interesting... So I want to try it out :rolleyes:

My understanding is that the cam timing is retarded about 5 deg. to reduce NOX emissions, but I'd check that number. To modify a pulley, I'd consider milling the bolt holes into slots, and just soft soldering or gluing in machined crescents to finish the job.