Anybody tried a louvred grill block?
 

I think that must engine compartments have room for something like a chopped down louvre system controlled by the appropriate sensor--intake temp for an intercooler block, or coolant temp for a radiator block.

However, I'm not sure whether that's a good system for this application, whether it's sturdy/heat resistant enough, and whether there are other pitfalls I'm missing.

I'm building a custom one for my truck, I will post about it when the time comes. I plan on slaving it to boost so a high boost can over ride any other factor.

Good luck with the project, can't wait to read about it. You're blocking the intercooler, then, and opening the shutters when it's under boost? What advantages does that offer, vs. going off the post-intercooler intake temps?

BMW was one of the first modern cars to have this on some of their newer models and it seems ford and chevrolett are catching on to the idea. they all use internal shutters.

the idea is sound but i suppose most oems use software that takes, speed, temperature, etc into considderation.

i'm planning to have a go at it sometimes useing a central locking motor and use the fan controller as an imput

The intercooler on this truck is massive, and located in front of the radiator. It goes all the way across the front.
Under normal conditions and eco-driving, the temperature struggles to get to the thermostat point. It has way too much air.
The boost is also at 2~4 PSI. No need for cooling the inlet air either.
I'll control the louvers for both underhood temps and coolant temps. I have to figure all that out. I'll make the linkage slotted and connect an air cylinder and springs to manifold pressure, so any time boost exceeds 15 PSI or so it will open the louvers further and over ride the main servo setting.

anything that is 'custom' built will face the challenge of the wind.
here is a pic of how the wind peeled back gorilla tap
on the belley pan
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...lsplats100.jpg

The intercooler will soak up heat when it's not being cooled...so the initial air charge will not be cool until the intercooler is back to ambient temp. Good example is the IAT sensor located in the airflow. Sometimes it may take a few minutes before the air temp reading is back to temp after heat-soaking under the hood.

I have found that Gorilla tape will let go under adverse conditions like heat (sun/engine), pelted by dirt/sand particles aided by wind. The minute particles work their way under the tape and slowly pry the tape off. Since tape is not self recoverable...it will eventually lose to the adverse environment. :(

One of the key things to consider is how much force the louvered system can withstand without bending/deflecting. ;)

That's why I'll use an underhood temp gauge to choose a grille setting. If I keep the underhood temps at a good place the intercooler won't be too warm to do the job when needed. It is out in front of the radiator, which will still need some flow. Just not the huge bucketfuls of air it enjoys now at freeway speeds ;)

Skyking, do you have specific plans for control, yet? The only way I know to get output from the intake temp sensor is the ODB-II port, and I don't think there is an underhood temp sensor. Would you install a separate temperature sensor in the air intake so you could get both intake and under-hood temperature inputs on the same type of interface?

I wish this were the type of thing that aftermarket suppliers liked to make, instead of purely cosmetic "aero" mods.

Since tape doesn't hold long-term, anybody tried velcro? The more you vibrate that around, the tighter it holds.

Its been talked about a lot, but few have done it. I think mine is probably the best documented one. Unfortunately my door/hinge setup didnt work well, and then I sold the car. So, it was never finished.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...lock-6767.html