Attachment methods
 

If you are like me, you might be in favor of adding an areomod or two to your car, but if it really looks 'out there' it had better really work. The only way to know is to do an A-B-A test, which is simple, but you need to easily remove the areo device to do this. The other thing is while working on your car, you might need to remove it to gain access. I have a few suggestions as to how to attach aeromods to your car...

Blind Riv-Nuts: They instal with a hand drill, then a special $20 expander tool that looks a little like a poprivet gun. These beauties are available in aluminum and stainless steel. Great threaded anchors for sheet metal, where self tapping screws would be tacky, and you can't get a nut or wrench on the backside. Strong machine theaded holes that don't leak. If you remove the bolt on part, you can replace the fastener with a button-head stainless steel screw, that doesn't look bad, won't rust, and is very rounded.

Dzus fasteners: also called 'quarter-turn' fasteners. race car quality stuff, easy to instal remove, perfect for attaching fender skirts, air dams, radiator blockers, moon wheel covers, etc. At about $5ea, they are not the cheapest, but do give your project a finished look while being very practical. You don't want to use these to penatrate into the interior space, as they are not rain tight while things are removed (big open hole)

Hi,

I use tape: (so-called) transparent 3M Duct Tape, black "Gorilla" tape, and clear WeatherSeal tape. The last one is good in flush conditions on when then is low "lift" -- the tack strength is good in some conditions but it loosens in some situations.

Gorilla tape is very strong and very sticky. 3M Duct tape is also quite sticky and slightly less strong; and in hot conditions, it tends to wrinkle and lift a bit over time. So far, I have not found the Achilles Heel of Gorilla tape -- if you can use black tape, then I don't think you could get a better tape.

Obviously, tape is "temporary" -- I have to take off my skirts when I take the car in for service, when they need totate the tires, for example. And I will not be able to use them during the winter, so all it takes is a little "Goof-Off" solvent to remove the residual gluey bits.

I've used the blind riv-nuts under the CRX and had some spin loose.It's a nightmare!!!!!!!!!!! My pilot neighbor introduced me to "riv-nuts" which are attached by pop-rivet and don't rely on the expansion-friction-grip.Harder to use,but won't leave you in the lurch (don't want to lay on 170-degree asphalt trying to remove some panel you have absolutely got to get into).

This PVC air dam is attached entirely with industrial strength velcro. I've had it to 80 with no problem. Velcro is handy because it lets me take it off to get the car on ramps for oil changes.

that's so awesome!

I used to watch a friend of mine, spend hours repairing his banged up dirt track car's sheetmetal. They all pop-rivet the panels on, but must drill them out to remove the panels. I suggested industrial velcro to him several times (Charlie would just give me that, over-the-glasses, under the brow, stare... :rolleyes: )

Riv-nuts: The key to using them is a round hole, then proper expansion. Standard drill bits tend to make this tri-lobe shaped hole in sheetmetal, no good for riv-nuts. You really want to use a sheetmetal drill bit, or a regular but undersized bit, followed by and on-size reamer.

Keep the suggestions/experiences coming.

I have used this, you can't beat the holding power.

http://www.instructables.com/files/d...185.MEDIUM.jpg

But how is the velcro attached?

I used velcro for my rear wheel skirts v.1.0 ( http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...metro-103.html ). They held fine, but the first time I went to detach them, the velcro stayed together and peeled off the car.

Version 2.0 uses brackets & screws.

MetroMPG -

I think you have to remove the sticky backing on the velcro and use the right kind of epoxy. I just did that with my car's dome lamp (plastic tab is busted). And, there's still no promise it will hold unless you're an epoxy master.

CarloSW2

instarx -

Wow, that's impressive. Can you describe the orientation of the attachment? I am assuming the velcro is horizontal, "ceiling mounted", aka being pulled down by gravity all the time.

CarloSW2

Well Nuts
 

one of my favorites is the "well nut"

it is like a riv-nut but it is rubber - with a metal nut molded in it
all it takes is a hole to make it work - and because it is only rubber it is completely removable
middle of the road load wise - better than velcro but not as good as a real fastner
if sized and installed right - they could easily carry 50-100 lbs
and they are water tight (I have used them mainly in sail boat decks)

fyi - if they are not installed as an interference fit they will fall out when not tightened down