Best MPG without EOC and P&G ??
 

Hi Guys n Gals,

I am curious as to what MPG's you guys are able to achieve without the usual EOC (and stop lights) & P&G ?

I am struggling to get under 5.5l/100km in a 1.3L DOHC weighing 900Kg with me in it, and am wondering if that is average, great or unbelievable ? :o

I am planning on EOC sometime in the future, once I can make it electronic, aka Prius hands off style would be nice, but till then I would like to see how low I can go and have the feeling that this MPG is potentially only average.

The engine has a few miles on it (140k), but seems mechanically A1. Though it does need a new clutch but I'm not expecting that to change my MPG figures much if anything?

I have a wideband on it and other than being in closed loop for 95% of the time, it barely goes below 14:1 with my driving style. I know that doesn't mean much given load and bsfc etc..

Anyway, feel free to post up some non EOC and P&G numbers?

I'm curious as to whether or not I should be doing better given the car I have?

:)

I am doing just under 40 mpg (about 6 l/km) in a 1.4 l Nissan Versa. Lately my driving style has been to coast to stops idling in neutral and occasionally coasting down hills, idling in neutral. I have done aggressive engine off coasting in the past but not in the past few tanks.

i have a grill block and a modest spoiler.

At this point, an oil heater would probably give me good results, and I want to build another boattail, which is very effective.

It sounds like you are doing a good job with 5.5 l/km. Does your vehicle have a US rating? Generally we compare our results to the US EPA rating, it allows comparing mods and driving techniques to an average rating.

No EPA rating only an ADR rating of 6.6l/100km for City driving and 4.8L/100km for Highway, which I can put up the test procedure if someone is interested. Done on a dyno with correction factors applied after.

Can't wait to fit my MPGuino to see if I can really get 4.8L/100km on the highway.....

My last two vacation rentals were automatic transmission cars that I couldn't EOC in. I did P&G them, but have no idea whether it helped or hurt. I averaged close to 5.5l/100km in them (42 mpg in the Toyota Yaris with 1.5 l engine and 43.7 mpg in the Kia Rio with 1.6 l engine). Since I was doing a lot of long distance, warm engine highway driving, I'm sure my mpg would have been worse if I'd mixed in much city driving. I think you're probably doing pretty well to get 5.5l/100km without EOC or P&G. The only other thing I did for hypermiling was to keep my top speed around 90 km/hr (55 mph).

I've done 57.51 with the engine running the whole time, no pulse and glide in my 1997 Tercel, about 40.1 in a 2010 Ford Fusion rental and a not very impressive 32.8 in a 2005 Dodge Stratus.

It's certainly not too shabby for a petrol engine ;)
But given the weight and displacement of the car, it can get better :)

If it's worn and slipping, it will affect your mileage.


Which hypermiling tricks are you applying already ?
100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com

Why wouldn't I EOC? It saves loads of gas around town. But to answer your question, 78mpg @ 69mph on the interstate on a hot day with no A/C and the windows up. I've also done > 100mpg segments on the highway, but of course I'll EOC down the offramps, and extensively on my way to the highway.

Feel free to explain how? Especially in a petrol car with more displacement and weight? :(

I'm running the baby 4E-FE.. :)

Even if I can achieve the highway rating of this thing, that's only 49 MPG....

Apart from EOC and P&G there isn't much I already don't do from that list....

I think the MPGuino, once calibrated, will help me greatly so we'll see.

:)

In my matrix, before my big mod add on in Aug I could get 42-43 MPG. Now I can get 44-46. If I work on it I have gotten 50 :)

51MPGus without P&G, because its a diesel I don't do EOC!

Rob - why not with a Diesel ?

IIRC, too much of a love of the PULSE...

If I can get straight to the highway and drive 50 ish mph I could probably get 50-55 mpg.

I started out with an US EPA rated car that is estimated to get 22 city, 28 highway, 24 combined. I was averaging 27-28mpg winter, 29-30mpg summer. When I started hypermiling I managed 32-34mpg. As I brought in more P&G that came up to 36-38mpg, then winter came. Now I should be getting the worst mileage of the year, but I've managed to hold it around 36-38mpg because I'm going EOC at every safe opportunity. I suspect if it was summer I'd be pushing 42-43mpg with EOC P&G. My last tank was 39.3mpg.

IMHO, just good hypermiling technique will buy you a 15-20% improvement over EPA highway numbers. Simply by anticipating stops, avoiding unnecessary braking, coasting when practical, using DFCO on longer, steeper descents, and driving with a light foot near the speed limit. Adding in some pulse and glide with the engine on will give you another 10% and shutting the engine off on your glides and at stop lights will gain another 10%.

+1
Considering you're fortunate enough to have a manual, why not use EOC? Restarts would be easy as pie if you use bump starting, and adding a manual kill switch instead of having to use the key would make it even easier.

What tire pressure do you run? Many folks here run at 50 psi (3.4 bar)

I'm at 40 or 42 psi, doing 44 or 46psi in a couple days time, with my next fill.

New clutch is being organised so once that is on and a few aero tweaks done, I'll then see how far EOC gets me.

:)

Completely agree. From reading threads here and on CleanMPG by some folks posting stellar numbers, driving style is by far the single biggest thing you can do to raise that post-EPA percentage. In my case, I'm hitting 26-39% above (last two tanks were 36.7 and 40.4, EPA combined is 29) with almost no mods. I removed a few carpets and some plastic from the under panels and made a clear tape grille block. Besides that, everything else has come from driving with FE in mind. I don't have instrumentation yet, so my feedback is tank to tank (although I'm comparing odometer numbers and fuel needle positions to my eventual tank MPGs to see if I can get more intermittent feedback from gauge position), and it's already clearly making a difference. That said, my next tank will be revealing, since I went back to using E10 gas for the tank and have also been using P&G in the city consistently for the first time. I'm curious to see what effects the temperature drop, P&G, and E10 sum to.

Driving style is definitely the biggest change you can make, though heavy modding like the aerocivic are almost as good. Combine both and you can probably get ridiculously higher numbers like 400% EPA

I'm at 60ish psi now. Of course, I have bridgestone ecopia ep-100s, and bridgestone tires seem to be relatively high quality. Unless your tire is damaged you shouldn't have problems until well over 100 psi.

I haven't come close to 100, but I was around 75 a few weeks ago on my tires (I should look them up to see what they are) by accident because I was using a gas station filler and didn't check. I got my bike pump and discovered my front tires were above 70 and lowered them. I think I'm currently around 65/60 front/back. I want to check again, though, since it's been ridiculously cold lately. For reference, I think my tires are rated to 44.

don't want to fry the starter repeatedly turning over the high compression derv-iness

There was a discussion which included the Ford Focus with stop-start a while ago and one feature was an uprated starter. I asked if this was an indication that perhaps a standard one would fry with increased use but the concensus at the time was that it was there to provide a quicker startup rather than to have a longer life.

Interesting... :confused:

new starter spooling a light, multivalve 1.6 alloy petrol engine

versus

a 14yr/old starter, heaving over a miss-treated, stubborn, piece of wolfsburg heaviest industrial clag-iron :?

Eo(n)C I can do and it does givce results, but to be honest - I forget to do it! I probably shouldn't admit to this be 90-95% of my commute is on auto pilot unless Costa are doing discount espresso shots at work!

I'd prefer not to use the starter myself in your shoes; hence the bump start suggestion.

You'd be suprised that, after training yourself to use coasting opprotunities, how instinctively you'll turn off the engine, know when to restart with a bump of the clutch, know when to start the coastdown for an upcoming turn, etc. Even when off my normal route, I instinctively knock the tranny in neutral when I see a good coasting opprotunity arise.

I know the tendency to go to auto pilot myself. What's scary is when you arrive at your destination, and can't recall the journey!

I drive an automatic aveo... I drive all city. My only mods are ngk ix iridium sparkplugs (ultrafine) (I bought it used with burnt copper), and upper grill block.

EPA for city is 23, I get 28. Its been cold since I started testing it.

@Rob & Shade - Which is more expensive - a starter, a clutch or the fuel used ?

Of course two are only risks... :D

That's pretty easy. 100,000 miles @40 mpg = 2500 gal. Assuming gas @$3/gal., the gas costs you $7500. A clutch? Maybe $500. A starter, maybe $100.