How difficult is it to replace civic hybrid battery?

[sdnomad]

I have a 06 civic hybrid with a POA7F error code. The honda dealer said they updated the software and it still throws POA7F codes. The car has a salvage title so Honda refuses to replace the battery. I bought a complete hybrid battery package for $300 from a 07 civic with 27000 miles. I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace the battery myself. Where do I find the instructions for changing out the battery. Or is this a dealer only job?

Also the 07 battery that I bought has been sitting for 2 years. Is that a problem?

Thanks in advance!

[RobertSmalls]

I replaced my own hybrid battery, and you should strongly consider doing the same. Physically swapping the batteries is easy but time-consuming, as you'll probably have to take the rear seats and other parts out to get at the battery.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ems-13610.html

If the '07 battery was in good condition when parked, then all you need to do is rebalance that battery, giving it a good, long soak on a grid charger BEFORE you drive with it. If you skip this step, you will need to take your battery apart and refurbish it in a few months or a year, using the cells in your other pack as spares.

If you decide not to DIY, there's also Hybrid-Battery-Repair.com, who does it for less than half the price of the dealer. He also buys failed battery packs, such as your old one.

[sdnomad]

Would a dealer use a grid charger? Where does a person get a grid charger without having to build one?

Also, would the super brain 989 work on a 06 civic hybrid? I saw in the thread you recommended someone stated that the civic has 12 cells. And if they are lithium, the super brain 989 states it works on 1-8 lithium cells or 1-25NiCd

[RobertSmalls]

Someone PM'd me a similar question last week, so I answered you in the other thread.

[sdnomad]

Thanks, I been reading up on that thread and there is a lot to take in for a newcomer. I'm on Mike's list to borrow his grid charger. I'm thinking of building my own. I currently drive 2 hybrids. One is a Toyota Highlander that functions flawlessly so I'm not sure if I would need to do anything to it down the road. I understand the voltages are probably different between the civic and highlander hybrids.

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls

Someone PM'd me a similar question last week, so I answered you in the other thread.

[sdnomad]

Robert, I have been reading up and corresponding with Mike to try to get up to speed so I do this right. There is talk about recalibrating or recalibration of the battery. What is meant by recalibrating? Below was a post of yours where you spoke about recalibration.

Also, I am looking at ordering the parts for a grid charger. Do I need the 12V power supply for my civic or can I do like you mentioned below?


"The plans call for just leaving the battery fan running whenever you're charging. Instead, I'm keeping Honda's BCM powered up (along with the high voltage contactor and DC/DC converter). The battery fan will turn on only if it gets too hot. No more cold batteries in the winter. This also keeps the BCM abreast of the true state of charge of the battery, avoiding the recalibration you'd otherwise get."

[RobertSmalls]

Unless you're grid charging nightly (PHEV'ing), you don't need to worry about that.

Mike thinks I'm crazy for not running the fan, but in my testing, the battery didn't get hot enough (except in the summer) to worry about it. Most of the year, my battery is too cold. Besides, batteries are cheap. Btw, "no more cold batteries in the winter" is quite the overstatement.

A recalibration is when the BCM decides it was incorrect about the state of charge, and your SOC gauge moves. A "positive recal" is when you hit the BCM's upper voltage threshold, and the SoC jumps to 20 out of 20 bars. A negative recal has you jump to zero or one bar, which is incredibly annoying.

[sdnomad]

If I decided to try and run the battery cooling fan, could I use a computer PS with 4 pin Molex fan connectors and simply plug the 4pin battery fan connector to the PS, instead of buying the Meanwell 12v PS?

Also, I noticed you used a Kill-A Watt meter on your charging. I have a Kill-A Watt meter already, so one less thing to get. How did you connect that and were you monitoring voltage?

Thank you for your time.

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls

Unless you're grid charging nightly (PHEV'ing), you don't need to worry about that.

Mike thinks I'm crazy for not running the fan, but in my testing, the battery didn't get hot enough (except in the summer) to worry about it. Most of the year, my battery is too cold. Besides, batteries are cheap. Btw, "no more cold batteries in the winter" is quite the overstatement.

A recalibration is when the BCM decides it was incorrect about the state of charge, and your SOC gauge moves. A "positive recal" is when you hit the BCM's upper voltage threshold, and the SoC jumps to 20 out of 20 bars. A negative recal has you jump to zero or one bar, which is incredibly annoying.

[RobertSmalls]

I cut up an old computer power cord and wired it into the MeanWell PSU's. Hence, my grid charger plugs into the wall, or into a KaW.

You can use any source of 12V to run your battery fan, even an AC->12VDC brick, as long as it can supply the required 0.6A. Actually, I've tested that fan down to 9V, and you may be able to go much lower than that. Or, you could take the battery out of the car and point a 120VAC desk fan at it, especially this time of year.

[sdnomad]

Robert, When connecting the + - charger output to the hybrid battery, would I connect
them to the battery + -? I have the used junk yard battery sitting by itself
(no electronics attached) on the garage floor. I have not installed it in
the car. Also what measurement do you take while charging? I saw that you had a kill-a-watt connected somehow. I also have a kill-a-watt meter.
Thanks again, Doug