Build the best metro
 

I would swear somebody has did this but i was wonder what the best package would be if you had all the parts available.

1. Body- The sedan would be the best cause it has the lowest cd? Once u striped the weight down wouldnt cd be the most important.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post62928

2. Motor- 3 cylinder

3. Tranny- the 95+ 1.3

4. Tires- I believe the 12's (145/82/12) would be best if you could get the right gearing in the tranny but otherwise the 13's are (155/80/13)

5. Muffler. None-Run a straight pipe after the cat. restrict the end to tune the backpressure.

6. 93-94 flat front bumper, not rounded one

if you are going to go with a sedan why not just cut off the passenger side and make it an inline two passenger, taking a 4 door and making it a two door with the two doors on the drivers side.
I would think that a xfi engine and tranny would be the way to go, 135 R13 tires would be what I would use, and if less restriction on an exhaust is the way to go then just do away with it all together... wait I've done that before on a motorcycle and it had no power with out the the exhaust system to keep the exhaust velocity up, you can test it with any engine.

Weren't you the guy who said the I4 was more economical than an I3. Have a change of heart? Those little things barely make any power, a straight pipe would strip what little you have on the low end, and couple reduce backpressure so drastically that the engine would probably stall right after starting. On the right track thought.

if you are going to chop the car up it doesnt matter what body u start with

I'll have what you are smoking. I asked the question why the I4 turning at 2400rpm wouldnt be more economical than the I3 turning at 3200rpm ,especially since i travel alot of miles at a time.
The reasons were;
1. the frictional losses would be lower in the I4 because since there is the same amout of cylinders firing per minute. the I4 is turning slower and friction increase as a square of speed.
2. the accesories are turning slower in the I4, just like if you used an underdrive pulley.
3. The motor should last 25% longer

But i never did get a real answer, people kept talking about idling and how many injectors were firing. hell one guy even talked about how those old out-of-date bulky, performance v8's were less economical than a little motor.

How do you find 135 R13 tires and suitable wheels? I've gone the route of looking for available LRR tires that help tweak the gear ratio, but the wheels are scarce, too.

The 8-valve and the XFI had the tallest transmission gears. The pre-'95 models are lighter and smaller, and of those, the coupe is 45 pounds lighter than the 4-door, and shaped to make it easy to extend the tail.

I think that the performance advantage of an exhaust pipe comes not from back pressure, but from suction produced by the momentum of the exhaust gasses in a tuned pipe.

I am running 165/80/13's on my 1.3 auto lsi 4dt. getting 44. as i drive 50 miles to work one way, the cd matter more than weight. and weight is easier for me the fix than body style. (i dont do anything weight wise right now on my car). On the muffler thats why i think its best to run a pipe all the way back. You can then tune it by changing the size. But you dont need a muffler on these engines.

put a honda engine in it

muahahaha

:D

I know the chevy metro is really am import, but i cant sink low enough to completly turn my back on america and go with honda. But i guess if nobody pops the hood just my conscience will be hurt.

CoyoteX already built the ultimate Metro.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...onvertible+XFi

where do I buy a CoyoteX metro.

YES YES YES!!!! IT GETS NO BETTER THAN THAT!:thumbup:

Did it ever get weighed? How about fe?

please, there is a whole link on that car out already. This is for stuff u can actually buy. a custom built car is great. Most of us dont have a custom car shop. this thread is for us. The guys who do, go to his thread.

Build the best metro

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I would swear somebody has did this but i was wonder what the best package would be if you had all the parts available.

right frank, this is for parts, not custom cars built like stock cars

I'd say go get an xfi, or all the xfi stuff for transplant

A 1995-1997 Metro 3 door hatchback
Install an XFi cam
Install a 1995+ swift 1.3L manual 5 speed
P155/80R13 wheel/tire combo
Install a tach cluster.
High flow universal cat with 2" pipe to a center mounted cherry bomb and a new stock muffler.

YEA, MAN, DONE......Except I still haven't done the exaust....I wonder if 2" would be to big.....Not enough back pressure...??? Or I'll do what Hacksaw was thinking of and build a header (I have a flange plate allready) , Then run 3 individual pipes out the back with small mufflers WOW :eek:

I have my 145/70R13 tires on 4.5" wide rims and everything looks and rides perfect according to the pocket auto reference guide 3 to 4.5" wide tires are fine to use with 135/50 and up tires and 135 tires have an assumed side wall of 85%, so that is a rather tall sidewall, so i would think 5" wide rims with 135 R13 tires would be fine, 5" wide is common on alot of 4 bolt by 100mm spacing on alot of Japanese cars with 13" rims, geo's often have 4.5" wide rims, same with the civic vx, crx hf, and a few other cars built for mileage.
i got my 145/70 R13 tires from a NEV dealer.

For the best FE I would say a straight pipe back to the back, then you could use for the last foot or two go down in diameter. with a little testing by swapping different size diameters one could discover the best size. I have no idea how one or even two mufflers will help FE. Also alot of people say look at coyotex's car. wouldnt that convertable be closer to a sedan and not a hatchback.

I just went to a 2" diameter pipe basically straight back to a muffler. It seems to be the best overall. I had a 1.25" straight pipe and the car really sucked with it on there. I think a small tip might help out some but not overly small or long. The factory cars had a pipe that looked around 2" diameter but had a tiny little tip on the muffler. I figure they had to have some reason to do that so I will probably made a slip in reducer to cut the size of the opening down on my replacement muffler's 2" tip.

I don't think a convertible is ideal for FE(prob the worst) but with the top up it seems to do pretty well. I will eventually get some coastdown testing done with it and figure out the actual numbers. I am not sure what one is better shape wise though sedan or hatchback. I would guess sedan but I am not really sure if anyone has actual numbers to compare them.

Spambot :eek:

guitarterry, I am trying to understand what you want, and what you are willing to do to get there.

I followed coyotex's 'vert build from beginning to end, it's far from a custom built stock car.

Don't confuse the complete chassis rebuild (to repair the rotten unibody) with the very inovative ecomods he has also done.

There's lots and lots of gold nuggets to be mined from that story, you just need to read the entire blog and use what will apply to your 2nd gen sedan. if you read the entire thing and still don't see the relavence to your needs, I'll eat my keyboard.

I like coyote's build alot, But I was wanting to go to u wreck it (junk yard) and get the best stuff as im doing it.