This thread is being started to take all the non-relevant off topic posts off MPaulHolmes 3 phase controller build thread.

Would/could a moderator move ALL the BAS E-assist information from the 3 phase controller thread, into this thread ? Thank you.

Further discussion input on my part will proceed once the moderators have cleaned up the other thread. Anyone that wants to participate on this topic or relevant topics, feel free to do so.

The first page is all copies from the old thread.

===================================


WOW, what a thread. I finally got through all 306 pages, reading 5-10 pages at a time, until my old eyes crossed. I know nothing about electronics, but, can hold my own with mechanicals. I was hoping the topics would drift just a little bit further off course, and get some discussion going about programming a switched reluctance induction motor, in a lower voltage scenario.

I am of the "jungle with a hand drill" crowd, as Paul said, but, have a few more tools, machines. Down here, in the jungles of Costa Rica, there are hundreds of motorcycles of the 125cc-150cc range. Gasoline hovers around $6.00/gallon. My goal is to produce electric conversions for the locals.

I have built a homemade moto using a hub motor and Chevy Volt 83V battery. Hub motors are too low KV to climb hills very well. Controllers take a beating.

My plan, if ANYONE would be interested, is to try to get a controller working for the E-assist alternator, which can put out over 20 HP at 55v and expected 30+ HP at 72V. I have been in contact with a guy in Spain that has verified these figures. He also wanted to build a controller and I tried to get Lebowski to see about recoding his chip, but, like Paul, he is very busy. These motors are relatively inexpensive for the HP potential.

I know a couple of the posters here also are members of other forums and are very well educated with home built controllers.

If anyone would be interested in working on this, I will gladly start a new thread and supply a motor in the states for whoever would need one to figure out the code.

I also have a step grandson here, who is crazy interested in electronics and no one knows how to build OR repair controllers. I have bought him a started list of stuff so he can get into the electronics and his sister is working on getting into electronics engineering, so, this could be a great future for these two.

Any takers on trying to do this, hopefully ??

Thanks and a great big thanks for all the active members-testers in this thread, especially Paul, things to do and eclipse.

Harold in CR

I wasn't too concerned about the RPMs, as that can be compensated with pulley sizes. And with ruggedized and cooled electrical circuits you can lug right down to 0rpm.

My intent is to visit the local Buick dealer. They won't know anything but maybe there will be an example on the lot.

I just found out that we have possibly 2 Ford C-max controllers that I thought had been discarded and was given the Hyundai controller my buddy has, besides the Honda controller I had recently bought.

Should have enough parts at least, to make 1 good controller, maybe more. :)

Do you have an example of the motor/generator?

I just stopped by a Buick dealer and they let me look under the hood of a LaCrosse. The unit appears to be 8" in diameter and 8" overall. There was a lot of paraphernalia in the way, but it looks like the cooling and electrical connections are on the rear face; which means I couldn't just scab a stock VW cooling fan onto it. :(

freebeard
The encoder/resolver is on the back end of the altermotor. There is no room for a fan.

Rig up a belt drive fan off the front shaft/pulley. Might need a jackshaft to do it.

Oh. VW. Forgot how they work. Fan on generator. Let me check around how others do it.

edit--Ummm, why do you need air cooling if you change out the engine for an altermotor ?? Cabin heating, maybe ?

I've been looking around.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4Zihl-vsj...-EASSIST-5.jpg
http://www.carscoops.com/2011/09/buick-launces-eassist-version-of.html

https://macsworldwide.wordpress.com/...oling-systems/

Potential gotcha in italics.

If it it center-mounted like a Porsche alternator, there might be room to run a jackshaft past to the stock fan. :confused: Else there is the Type III crank-mounted fan.

If that long junction box can lay flat face down against the top of the case it would make a tidy install and route the wiring forward without impeding the cooling.

How are the motorcycle conversions going? I was reminded when I saw this on JACG:

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ja_1DLi2k...fsdfsdfddd.JPG
http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2017/03/a-new-thing-for-me-to-see-on-back-of.html

That cutaway photo is the early model Gen 1. It has small magnets jammed between the rotor claws and is very under powered for it's designated use. You trying to build an E-assist system ?

You want the Gen 2 like in the video you posted.
Later today I will start a new thread with actual testing info sent to me from Spain.

Hopefully we can get the info from this thread transferred or copied to the new thread.

I'm up to my eyeballs in projects and hampered by the rainy season just getting started. Have not even ridden my home built moto this year or worked on the reverse trike. :(

We're just coming out of our too-cold-to-spray-paint season.

If your source in Spain can provide specifics, how about the dimensions — overall and the mounting points. Then I could mock up something and fit it to a spare engine I have on the bench.

that motor
 

Seems that motor is putting out roughly 23hp and 5 ft/lb torque according to the difference from year to year, does that sound about right?
Buick’s 37mpg 2012 LaCrosses with eAssist Priced at $30,820, New V6 with 303HP also Available

Nevermind, wiki has the answer!
At the LA Auto Show, on November 15, 2010, General Motors announced that it would be releasing an all-new version of the BAS system available in the 2012 Buick LaCrosse.[8] While still a Belted Alternator Starter system, the system is named eAssist and includes a larger more powerful Hitachi-supplied[citation needed] 115 Volt Lithium Ion battery and a 15 kW (20 hp) motor-generator that delivers 79 lb·ft (107 N·m) of torque.

Are these sold in america?! If so, seems like a great way to either hybrid your gasser or turn a motorcycle/scooter or hella fast bicycle!

There's one on the lot downtown; and I agree (except the bicycle part).

Controller mods or build for E-assist altermotor
 

This thread is being started to take all the non-relevant off topic posts off MPaulHolmes 3 phase controller build thread.

Would/could a moderator move ALL the BAS E-assist information from the 3 phase controller thread, into this thread ? Thank you.

Further discussion input on my part will proceed once the moderators have cleaned up the other thread. Anyone that wants to participate on this topic or relevant topics, feel free to do so.

BAS Motor is listed as "alternator" on car-part.com
 

FYI, if you do a search for this part on car-part.com, it is listed as the alternator for the 2012-2014 Buick Lacrosse with eAssist 2.4l engine. Prices are stupid-low, though I'd be wary of unlisted core charges. There's one for $100 29 miles from me, and $50 225 miles from me. Since the BAS motor/generator replaces the standard alternator completely, there's no other alternator on the car that could be confused with it. One search result has a photo, and compared to some cutaways online of the eAssist system, it is clearly the correct part.

Looks like it has a lot of potential.

Ebay lists a used one at $159 canadian, with free shipping

2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 Buick LaCrosse Regal 2.4L Alternator 40K OEM | eBay

The one on the left seems to be it?

$159 for 27 HP seems like a steal!

Beware poor "fits XYZ" listings
 

Hello thingstodo,

I think all of the ones pictured in that ad are plain ordinary alternators. The eAssist one has a smooth outer housing rather than a vented-looking one. A lot of the Ebay listings have something like "...3 6L..." in the description string, which looks suspiciously like 3.6L, which is the larger non-eAssist engine option in the LaCrosse. Searching for a 2013 LaCrosse leather sedan with 2.4L engine gave me a result showing a brand new eAssist generator/starter for $300.

Beware poor cross-listings. Human and/or bot error does crop up often.

Thanks for the pointer!

I drive by a wrecker on my way home. They are closed for the day by the time I drive by, but I could maybe drop by on Monday and see what they have, or what they can get.

These are the vehicles that Wikipedia lists under BAS hybrid. Any others that I could cross-reference ... or would I rely on the wrecker to do that cross reference?

2012-2014 Buick LaCrosse w/ eAssist
2012-2014 Buick Regal w/ eAssist
2013 Chevrolet Malibu w/ eAssist
2014 Chevrolet Impala w/ eAssist

would love it.
 

Found one from 2013 malibu for $100, did all 2013 malibu's have this system?
I would be super excited to get this thing working, would be very cheap EV drivetrain for anything light.

YEEeeeepppp, Y'all done found out where they are. :) Mostly these prices are a little negotiable, especially if not through LKQ or Fenix corporate yards. :rolleyes:

I believe the 8" X 8" would be very close to dimensions. Shaft is NOT tapered.

I'm dodging rain showers trying to get projects out of the way, but, will try to add much more information maybe late today.

That core charge is just double dipping of money by salvage yards. Ain't nobody gonna rebuild one of these.

Looks like one of the moderators has brought all the info from Paul's 3 phase controller thread, to this thread. Thank You to whoever did this. :thumbup:

Now for some more information: From my contact in Spain. We had discussed using the Lebowski chip, but, Lebowski said he had no time to get into the code writing, researching, so, here we are.

( I know someone that could design any inverter IGBT or MOSFET (paying him of course) if we had the controller, but controlling an AC induction motor is the most complicated/costly part, and using a commercial VFD is not safe neither efficient)

(e-assist motor can work at 65V (500A) with the delta modification. I think it is a good voltage for a 15-20 HP motor
It is a delicate modification but anyone with welding or plumbing knowledge can do it. It is necessary to use silver wires to weld the copper wires (to increase conductivity of the union)

(I would never pay an external company for such a project, it is extremely complex and the know-how would remain outside. Any further modification would require their additional work (and charges). And also you would never have a SW free of errors, because any error detected after the project is considered closed would have to be discused to decide if it enters in the warranty or not, which causes the project to be ethernal in time.
I worked on SW companies for years, and I know how they work)...

(At the moment I own a company that is focused on SW for dynamometers (sportdevices.com). My interest in electric motors is basically to create a tool for measuring all important features of these motors like the efficiency, with the motor + controller as a "black box" (not controller alone, or motor alone). For this reason I am doing some investment in several commercial parts as motors and controllers. At the moment I have two Curtis (80V) and one Sevcon Gen 4 (which I couldn't start by now). And 3 e-assist motors and one ME115 water cooled motor.
I am spending some money to not have to develop any hardware by now, but in the long term I have the aim of developing my own inverter and controller, but as this is very time costly and we have lots of pending tasks related to daly work it is being delayed and delayed.

(There is an electronic engineer in the company (for this reason I told you that the inverter can be done here), but the controller SW should be written by me, and this is not possible at the moment).

(If we could arrange a team to cooperate to build such controller, we could provide all inverter design for a high power application, say 150V and 500A for Mosfets or 400V 400A for IGBTs, but it should be very carefully arranged and coordinated to no end in a total failure project
Also we can provide some tools for measuring purposes, we build software and electronics for inertial and braked dynamometers, and recently have tested a simple extension to measure battery and current voltage (efficiency is motor power / battery power)

(The point with ACIM motors is that it is not enough it works like PM motors (there are lots of controllers for PM motors: sensored, sensorless, BLDC, vectored, etc), it also has to be "the best one" because control strategy and parametrization in ACIM motors is a whole, if it is wrong the motor will draw a lot of heat and current. For instance for the same torque you can have higher slip (frequency difference with actual speed) and less current, or low slip and high current. There is an infinite set of combinations current and slip that provide different efficiencies for same torque. And also there are several combinations depending if you need max absolute torque for a specific rpm or max efficiency (it could be simplified to two operating maps).
As you can see it is not enough the controller works, it has to be also optimal and provide several modes of operation (for PM motors this is almost fixed). Self-tune process is also important as most of us would not be able to do it manually, but for that a high level of knowledge about ACIMs has to be reached.

(It is not so simple as adapting a PM controller to ACIM. PM can even work with a simple "BLDC" control (something similar to activate the right switch as the motor turns) and including the V/F parameter (KV) for that specific motor, but ACIMs need vector control to work in an efficient way. V/F algorithms are totally not recommended for traction applications).

(My main concern is investing too much in ACIM motors (parameter measurement, efficiency maps, etc) and discover afterwards that people mostly use PM motors, then I would have wasted most time
But also, I can see that there are much more solutions for PM motors, so I am not sure if could provide some interesting solution to improve what is already available. Honestly, I am bit lost)

(using a voltage converter is not a good idea, in general it would be a bad design:
* it increases the losses (minimum 10 or 15%)
* it adds a lot of weight and volume to the vehicle (the transformer for 15KW is huge)
* it increases the complexity and probability of failure
* you only save batteries in series (and BMS), but you add the converter
* you still not simplify the motor inverter, which still needs to operate with the motor voltage
* currents are multiplied to values that could be simply ridiculus. For instance if inverter and motor handle 400A, the converter (for 1:2 conversion) would handle 800A or 900A, which starts to be simply too much
for me it makes much more sense simply put more cells in series which will also add range and keep the current values low).

(Keep in mind that a converter over 500W or 1000W starts to be very big. Something over 3 KW is very big, and something to reach 15 KW simply does not make sense (it will take more room and weight than the batteries, for sure)

(Regarding kelly, I never tested them, probably they are worse than Curtis controllers)

(With the Curtis 80v 350A I got about 16 HP at 55V. With the 550A version and 75V I expect to be about 30 HP or more)

ALL the info in parentheses is the info from my Contact in Spain. He has purchased the Curtis controller. Cost $2400.00 +/- USA dollars :eek::eek:

He also gave me permission to post our discussion. My part was merely asking questions that he so graciously answered. :confused: One part about the voltage boost converter will pertain also to Paul's thread.

OK, lets get this thing working. :thumbup::thumbup:

Paul's AC Controller already does a good deal of what is described - vector mode control of AC induction motors, control of BLDC.

The V/F or volts/herz controller is much simpler and can run without an encoder, resolver, etc. It is less efficient. But it will run multiple motors in parallel from a single controller. I have more to investigate about doing 4WD in V/F and how much the wheels will slip - the question being whether the front wheels can pull but still spin at different speeds for corners.

I think this BAS alternator/generator is a good fit. I have one of Paul's AC controllers (serial #2 I think) and I'd like to try it. The firmware may need to be changed if I find something that won't work.

As always, the connection between the motor and the wheel is my problem. I'm not good at mechanical things. You'd think I'd be able to get a belt drive working .. perhaps with a very simple tensioner that let the belt slip if there was too much load?

I will call my local wrecker this afternoon. Perhaps they have one of these E-assist motors available nearby. If I could pick one up Monday that would be AWESOME.

Hello thingstodo,

It looks like they go up to 2016, possibly 2017. Not sure. Best get the part number off a GM parts website and use for comparison if you go look at it. The wrecker cross-reference may or may not adequately dis-ambiguate between eAssist and regular vehicles.


Hello foxgrockefeller,

Not all had it, just the ones with eAssist. Only 2.4L engines had eAssist, but not all 2.4L engines do. I have not exhaustively researched it.

General:

I did some note-taking:

All numbers in *engine crankshaft RPM*:

Engine has horsepower peak at 6,700RPM, so redline is probably 7,000-7,500 or so?

Generator output is 15kw(20.1hp) from 1570-3180RPM
Max cranking torque is 110lb-ft(150N-m), so call that from 0RPM or so.
Max motor torque during assist is 79lb-ft(107N-m) at 1,000RPM
Max motor power output is 11.2kW(15hp) from 1,000-2,200 rpm

Poking around I found an OK picture, so I stuck a ruler up by the screen to try and figure out the pulley ratio. It looks like a 2:1 reduction from motor to crank. Could be more, but that's an easy number to math with. Hmm. Need to divide peak torque by 2 as well, I think, to make the math work. Yes, that checks out.

So I did some quick math.

All numbers below here in *motor/generator rpm*:

So, we have a motor that has a stall or pull-up torque of 55ft-lbs, falling to 39.5ft-lbs that it can carry up to 2,000rpm where it goes to constant-power of 15hp, steady up to 4,400rpm (torque has fallen to 17.9ft-lb), and falling off in an unknown manner after that.

As a generator, it can absorb 15kw/20.1hp from 3140-6360rpm, falling off in an unknown manner above and below that range.

Stock, this thing would be a stump-puller with top speed potential roughly that of a 200-250cc gas 4-stroke. Great city/dirt bike.

If I recall correctly, the transition from roughly constant torque output to roughly constant power output happens when the back EMF equals the battery voltage, so in this case 2,000rpm. Doubling the voltage (230VDC) will roughly double the RPM (4,000rpm) to which the motor can make roughly constant torque. This will double the output power to 30HP, which will then be roughly constant to ~8,800RPM. If the winding insulation can handle it, going to triple voltage (345VDC) would net 45hp from 6,000-13,200. All at the stock max currents, so no additional I^2R losses, and still under the assumed motor redline of ~14,000-15,000rpm.

Of course, if you want to shove more current in, you can increase the power even more, or with less voltage, at the expense of more heating/losses.

If one could nab the voltage buck/boost circuit out of a later Toyota HSD system and control it, that'd allow more drive/regen voltage out of a smaller battery made from Leaf or Volt modules, or one could hack said modules to make them all series, rather than series/parallel, but I think that's more work.

I'm interested in an inexpensive controller circuit that can take single-phase 240VAC and make 3-phase power to run this motor. All I need is soft-start - variable speed is a bonus. I have a snowblower that wants converting... :cool:

Hello thingstodo,

IIRC, you'll get different slip in the motors at different corners as they travel at different speeds around a turn. Might have more torque on the inside wheel in a turn, though, if torque goes up with slip. Should be enough differentiation for corners, but might act like a clutch-type posi or mechanical locker when accelerating/decelerating. Odd handling on slick surfaces.

It's got a 7-rib serpentine belt pulley bolted onto it already. Given the RPM figures I listed, you'll want a 4:1 or better reduction ratio depending on the revs/mile of your tire and desired top speed. Describe your desired layout and I can help with figuring out how to hook it up mechanically. You don't want the belt to slip - you want the tires to do that. GM uses an aramid-fiber core *fan belt* to transmit this power without slipping - shouldn't be that hard to rig something up.

Good luck!

Should one be able to replace an alternator with this unit. Is is possible to run in pure ev mode? Say when one is crawling in traffic? Or would it need the engine to be constantly on?

Me too! That was a project that has been shelved since the ICE engine blew up/would not start ... almost 10 years ago

I would think 15 HP would be enough to crawl in traffic .. if you can get enough torque to start your vehicle from a stand still.

It may be interesting to figure out how to open the input/exhaust ports on your engine so that it will free-wheel :D

Hello teoman,

If you bolt this BAS device on your vehicle in place of your existing alternator, the only way to run in pure EV mode is to rotate the engine without injecting gasoline. This adds a lot of friction, and isn't entirely unlike moving your car around using the starter motor. You could do it this way to make your vehicle an auto-stop/mild hybrid type vehicle, though.

If you want to use this BAS (Belt Alternator Starter) device to allow "crawling in traffic" or similar in pure EV mode without turning the engine, it gets complicated. You need to hook up this BAS device between the engine's clutch or torque converter and the input to your transmission. That way you can have the clutch in or the torque converter unlocked and creep along with just the BAS. Keeping the clutch in will be interesting to figure out, maybe a line lock would work. More wear on the throwout bearing, though. You'll probably be limited to first gear and a pretty low top speed. 15hp in a car isn't much. Note that with an automatic transmission you will need at least a fluid pressure accumulator, probably a supplemental electric fluid pressure pump. If you look at GM's description of the eAssist system, they describe having an electric fluid pressure pump for the transmission to keep it happy.

Hooking it up anywhere else in the driveline would be even more complicated.

If you want to use this BAS as a pure EV motor, with no engine, it might have enough oomph to replace a stock 1200cc VW Beetle engine in a VW Beetle or vehicle based on that chassis/similar weight. And run at 2-3x voltage. Or put it in a motorcycle, which I think might be the OP's goal.

Hello thingstodo,

5hp compressor-duty 240VAC single-phase motor and ~30-40ft of nice flexible outdoor-rated 30A cable is plan A. This BAS is ~1/2 to 1/3 the cost or so of said motor, and is overbuilt for the purpose. 240V is enough to run this motor to ~9krpm, so gearing it down will be more complex, and the controller is needed. Might stick with the single-phase AC motor.

A battery-powered lawn tractor, though... :cool:

55 ft-lb at 0RPM with a 2:1 gear reduction? In first gear? Should be plenty.

Could help.

Quick note then back to the salt mine. This is a switched reluctance altermotor, not a pure inductance motor.. The stator PULLS the rotor around instead of pushing it.

I read a topic recently, where the Denso Alternator looks to be made the same way as this, using copper hairpins, and, the author stated he was separately exciting the rotor, SePex controller ??

Hi

The inside wheel should have more torque, since it has more slip. Breakdown torque on an induction motor is 3.5 - 4 times rated torque ... but each motor seems to have it's own base speed. We have ACIM on all of our equipment (at work) and changing out a motor DOES change the speed that the motor runs when lightly loaded. Loaded - it's only a few rpm.

But if the inner wheel is pulling hard the outer wheel should be OK going along for the ride?

My existing/planned setup is only RWD. A warp9 DC motor coupled to a 2002 Honda civic gearbox ... and obviously a DC Controller. I am planning to use it as a Side by side Quad/offroad buggy. Top end or redline (5500 motor rpm) in second gear would be in the 50 mph/80 kph range.

Going to 4 of these motors, one per wheel, driven by one AC controller and battery pack would be great for traction and control. The tires on it give about 1000 revs per mile. 1000 rpm on the wheels = 60 mph. So if I went for .. 20 mph? .. that's 333 rpm. And if I limited to 3000 motor rpm ... I could go as high as 9:1. I have read elsewhere that anything more than 3:1 would require 2 stages, which complicates things.

Belt slip may be bad. I am thinking $10 belts and single drive pulleys. I guess I am assuming that the belt tensioner would let the belts slip if you go over the rated torque? Maybe that's a bad assumption.

Sounds expensive. Maybe I should look around for a spare belt?

In my experience, if a V belt starts to slip, you COULD burn it just a tad thinner in that one spot and it would only get worse from then on.

I'm planning the cog "timing" type belt on my reverse trike. I have 2 hills that I need to get a run at and 1 is dirt/rocks just below our house. Check ebay for belts. I bought a used Can Am Spyder rear pulley and will get a couple different sizes for the motor shaft.

Thanks for the info.

How much of an efficiency loss would I experience?

And what about start stop? How would one go about that? Reroute starter motor to the BAS? Or have a fancier mechanism of injector cutoff an re-enable once the car is moving? (unfortunately the car is a 2003 MB ML350 with a 3.7L engine and an automatic transmission, it has 4WD).


For a motorbike conversion a shaft drive BMW would be awesome. I have an R1200GS and an R26 among others. But the shaft drive of the R26 would make it almost a drop in replacement for the motor (did not have a look at the rpms yet).

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...7387f57bc0.jpg

Timing belt: 98% efficient.
Serpentine belt: 98% efficient.
V-Belt: 96% efficient.

Slippage on any of them will completely kill efficiency. Timing belt wont slip, though, unless it loses all tension.

I favor the idea of serpentine belts, as, thanks to the auto industry, you can get practically any size you want, on the cheap. Pulleys can be salvaged cheap as well. And they can transfer a lot of power...a supercharger can suck back 20+ horsepower, and most of them are run with a plain old 6-ribbed serpentine belt.

With me it's my lack of money to effect the connection. :( But since I could sell my Lexus MGR at a loss and get the eAssist part and I have a zero-miles 1776cc engine sitting on stand; I'm looking at the lower operating voltage for the remaining parts. Feels good, man.

Just checked. Beetle is 800kg, polo is 1000kg.

Could be a very fun project.

Wonder if you could have 2 of them powering the car.

With the (68hp) Lexus MGR I calculated the weight of the engine, transmission, gas tank, shift rod, etc. would offset the (98lb) weight of the MGR and battery pack.

As a hybrid, the pulley drive would have to be doubled up or substituted a Gilmer belt drive like they use on superchargers.

As a pure EV, you might have a motor per wheel hub, with a 6 or 7:1 ratio.

Just wondering if the original electronics from the Buick/Chevy would be worth buying, and maybe hacking for more power. The battery is 115V. Not sure about the Whr, probably 1.4 or so, which would be 12 Ahr ?? Seems pretty light powered to me, or, am I not doing the math correctly?

EPIC fail on this one. I asked if they could get me a replacement part for any of the vehicles listed. The call I received was a simple 'No'. No alternative sources suggested, or possibility of bringing the parts in from other yards ... just 'No, we don't have an alternator for you'.

I guess I'll drop by one of the GM dealers and ask at the parts counter. I find the wreckers easier to deal with when asking for a part that works in multiple vehicles. The dealers seem to need a VIN number, or a specific model, or something. I have received strange looks when I ask for parts that work on different years of vehicles, and different models

Thingstodo,
What USA state are you close to? How far would you drive for one ? Shipping is ridiculous to Canuckistan.

Saskatoon is straight north of Montana. Scobey Montana is 4.5 hours each way. :(

Boy, you are really in the wilds, EH ? Wis., Mn., Mich., Id., all have one. Quebec has one. Wa., has one. How do we get one to you ?

You have any friends that live closer to the border?

They weigh around 18 pounds, I believe. How much to ship one, maybe? Most are $110.00-$130.00 US.

I just bought one for $85.00 today. Hope we don't get a run on these.

I've shipped across the US/Canada border. It is just not worth it. Importers make their money with all the cr*p they have to deal with!!

Shipping from quebec is not too bad. DHL has done 25 lb as a package before. Not sure if they still do.

A link to the one in Quebec would be nice :D

I will likely try asking at the dealership .. it may help if I have an ad to show them!

Early's Auto Parts Can-ON(Alliston) 705-435-7708 No price Stock#GB1004

Team Auto Parts Can-MB(Winnipeg) 1-204-222-7333 1-888-832-6870 No price
stock#Z645

My mistake. Quebec was not e-assist.