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Daox 01-18-2008 12:49 PM

Daox's 1997 Paseo Build Thread
 
Alright, its time to lay out the plans and mull it over with you guys for a little refinement.

I am starting with my modified 1997 Toyota Paseo.

http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/Paseo.jpg


I've had the Paseo a few years now and have done several modifications to it. The 1.5L 16V engine currently has a shaved and ported head, bored throttle body, underdrive pulley, cold air intake, and a header with performance 2" mandrel bent exhaust (1.75" is stock). I built it to get more power out of it, and that was fun. But, now its time to get more mileage out of it.

If you click my signature and/or look below you can see that I'm averaging mid to upper 40s out of the car as is. I'd love to see mid 50s out of it and I think thats quite possible especially considering the temperature this time of year.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/graph39.gif



So, where do we start? First off is probably aero mods. They are cheap and easy to do. The car sees 95% highway as its my daily commuter vehicle, so this will be the most cost effective place to start. I am starting with something that is reasonably good with a drag coefficient of .32 and a frontal area of 19.0ft^2 (1.77m^2). I'm thinking of mosly using a bellypan of sorts to smooth the underbody airflow. There isn't a whole lot of area up front to block for the grill, but I'll be looking into that as well. There is a possibility of rear wheel skirts, but I'm not sold on this just yet. However, any suggestions in this area are very much welcome! I don't know too much about aerodynamics (yet), so help here would be great.

The second area of interest is engine work. I need to do something to get low rpm torque back up. As it is with the ported head and throttle body, plus high flow exhaust, my low end power is sorely lacking.

To remedy this I have already purchased a stock throttle body. It is the stock 45mm, vs my bored 50mm. This should help plenum filling at lower rpms and increase torque accordingly.

The next thing to look at is the head. The porting job IMO is what is the largest contributor to my lack of low end power. The shaving that was done helps counteract it, but not enough. I have yet to find myself a new head to work with, but already have an idea of what I want done to it. The head will be treated to some special work. It will be shaved again to increase compression and thus increase low rpm torque. In addition to that it will have some port work done to it to increase in cylinder air/fuel mixing thus allowing even higher compression without the worry of detonation.

With the following done, a 2" high flow exhaust will definitly not be needed, nore desired. So, the 2" exahust will be replaced with a 1.75" exhaust. I still think this will be a bit larger than I will need, but I have had a hard time finding exhaust components for smaller pipe sizes. Some help here would be great as the Metro engines must use smaller exhausts. This brings us to the header. A header will increase the effeciency/torque of an engine versus the stock exhaust manifold. A header designed for low end torque should do quite well and I am looking into making one. The current header is a 4-2-1 type with 1.5" primaries, 1.75" secondaries, and 2" collector outlet. Its honestly a piece of garbage. Its loud and obnoxious. I do have another header for the car that is a 4-1 design. Its primaries are also 1.5". I don't know if this is the way to go either. I'd much rather design my own 4-1 header and use small 1.375" or even 1.25" primaries. This would be ideal, but we'll see how the other things pan out.

To top all this off, I would like to regearing the car. The Paseo's current transmission has the engine turning 3100 rpm @ 65 mph. I can get my hands on a differential that will drop that down to 2750 rpm @ 65 mph. This should help out on the highway quite a bit I would hope.

I know this is a lot to take in, and thanks for reading if you've actually gotten this far. Any suggestions would be great! I'll be updating this post as I go along. I like to take lots of pictures too so expect to see them as well. Just don't expect any of this to happen fast. :)

SVOboy 01-18-2008 04:07 PM

Very detailed and well written. It sounds like you've hit on everything I would mention.

Can you really not do better than 2750 rpm @ 65mph? If so that kind stinks, but it still sounds better than your current configuration.

Are there any models of this car or similar cars with better EPA ratings? If so my advice would be just to steal as much as you can from that car, :). That's pretty much what I've done, but then Hondas are likely more interchangeable than toyotas.

Looking forward to your progress!

Daox 01-18-2008 05:00 PM

I could get the rpms lower, it would just mean getting a new transmission. The plan is to swap a Corolla transmission into the Tercel in the near future due to its modifications. That'll leave me with the Tercel's 4 speed tranny with a 3.526 differential. If I went with a 95+ Tercel tranny it has a 5th gear ratio of .725 versus the Paseo's .815. That would bring the rpms down to 2450 @ 65 mph. But, that means buying a tranny. Also, the Paseos tranny only has 70,000 miles on it and still shifts quite smooth. I'll have to look into it. It would be nice since I could do the work before hand with the new tranny out of the car, and then just swap them.

What rpms do the VXs turn @ 65mph?


Paseo trans.

1st 3.545
2nd 1.904
3rd 1.310
4th 0.969
5th 0.815
Diff 3.941


93 Tercel trans.

1st 3.545
2nd 1.904
3rd 1.233
4th 0.885
Diff 3.526


95+ Tercel trans.

1st 3.545
2nd 1.904
3rd 1.233
4th 0.885
5th 0.725
Diff 3.722

SVOboy 01-18-2008 05:04 PM

Interesting. How much do those transmissions go for? I got mine for free, :D

Daox 01-18-2008 05:06 PM

I wish I was so lucky.

I just checked out car-part.com (great site btw) and found one for under $100. But, its in Ohio, and I'm sure shipping wouldn't be pretty.

SVOboy 01-18-2008 05:09 PM

Last time I shipped a tranny it was about ~60 dollars, I think. If you open use a DHL account you can do pretty well shipping wise. I would poke around on ebay and toyota forums. At least in the case of hondas, the performance types are always swapping out their old stuff and leaving it laying around.

roflwaffle 01-18-2008 05:58 PM

Check up on enthusiast sites/ebay/craigslist/etc... You can find cheaper. I've picked up a couple (4&5sp) free transmissions for my VW and recently bought one with what I felt were great ratios for $80 shipped.

Coyote X 01-18-2008 06:21 PM

If you have shaved the head the cam is now retarded from it's stock location. On a metro it is about 1 degree per 0.020 shaved. It should be similar on any over head cam inline engine. I would say to increase your low end, advance it a few degrees past stock. If you can get an adjustable cam gear that would be perfect to figure out where it is best at. The more advanced the cam the more it favors the bottom end. Up to a point anyway ~5-10 degrees advanced on a standard metro cam is good but on your car I have no idea.

If you have the stock cat on the exhaust it probably isn't really affecting it that much. If the cat is gone having a bit of back pressure will help the bottom end out. Maybe just crimp a pipe so it is reduced by maybe 1/4 of it's flow. The farther away from the engine the restriction is the less effect it will have and the bigger it will need to be so try and get it reasonably close.

Also weight reduction is always a good thing so consider if you really need all the stuff that is in the car now and take out what you don't.

Daox 01-19-2008 12:52 PM

Unfortunately, there is no adjustable cam pulley avaliable for the car. I'd have to have one custom made which is a possibility and I have looked into it somewhat. Another thing with it is that there is only one cam pulley, but it is a DOHC engine. The two cams are geared together under the valve cover. Retarding one retards both. So, it acts the same as a SOHC would with an adjustable cam timing pulley. Here is a picture of the cams. The cam timing pulley goes on the end of the exhaust cam which is the one on the top.

http://www.tercelreference.com/terce...dis_cams_1.jpg



The exhaust that is on there now is totally custom. There isn't a single piece of the original left. The CAT is 2" along with everything else.

I'm real interested in weight reduction. There isn't much that can go from the car that I'm willing to part with. I do like what little sound deadener I have and I'm not stripping interior panneling. The car weighs in at 2075 lbs (941kg) curb weight which is reasonable.

MetroMPG 01-25-2008 11:08 AM

I missed this thread starting. Jumping in late...

Any progress to report yet?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daox (Post 5985)
So, where do we start? First off is probably aero mods. They are cheap and easy to do. The car sees 95% highway as its my daily commuter vehicle, so this will be the most cost effective place to start. There isn't a whole lot of area up front to block for the grill, but I'll be looking into that as well.

I'd be looking into the grille block as item #1. You did a great job on the Matrix - can't wait to see what you do there :D (no pressure!). I think you'll be surprised at how much you can block without affecting engine temps in normal driving conditions. I'm at approx. 24 square inches of opening, and believe I could go smaller yet.

Considered a passenger side mirror delete? It's rare that we get to reduce A and improve Cd at the same time, but that's what you get by doing that.

I was reluctant to ditch mine at first, and then thought, "half the cars I've owned didn't have them in the first place, and I managed OK." You have to adapt your driving of course.

Daox 01-25-2008 01:31 PM

Nothing as of yet, but working on a few things. The -5°F weather prevents much work from being done.

The very first thing I am going to do is get the stock underbody paneling back on (pictured below). It had been removed when I was doing engine and exhaust work on the car and I just never bothered to put it back on. Last night I got my box of stainless fasteners from mcmaster.com, so the panels can be put back on this weekend. Those bolts on the underside rust SO fast in Wisconsin's salty roads in the winter! Unfortunately, two of the 4 mounting bolts had the heads snapped off while removing them the first time. Hopefully I don't have to drill and tap extra holes to hold it on.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...icture2738.jpg


The grill block is an idea that I am looking into. However, the Paseo is known to have odd occasional overheating issues, so I'm weary of doing any work in that respect right now (yeah, even with the cold weather). I need to get my scangauge back from the friend I lent it to before I go ahead with that. But, it'll definitly be done.

MetroMPG 01-25-2008 01:33 PM

Have you lowered the car?

Daox 01-25-2008 01:36 PM

Yes, it has TRD springs on it. Roughly a 1.5" drop IIRC.

Daox 01-29-2008 10:21 AM

Step one (baby step that is) is underway. This weekend it was actually warm enough to work. I'm really getting cabin fever with all the new stuff I'm reading, and I wanna go get some stuff done. So, at 25°F this Sunday, I went at it.

I got my package of stainless fasteners from mcmaster a few days before. I went with the bulk route due to the price. This order cost me $28 for 100 M6 bolts, washers, and nuts. It would have cost me around $10 to buy just enough for this project alone! So, I have extras for more work down the road.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/panels_1.jpg



These are the panels that were removed quite a while ago while doing work on the car. They will be going back on.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/panels_2.jpg



Here is the car without the panels on it. There is a lip down there for deflecting air, but I'm sure the paneling helps as the lip does not extend the full width of the car. Yes, I know I'm missing a vent.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/panels_3.jpg
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/panels_4.jpg
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/panels_5.jpg



This would be the underside of the engine bay without the panel on it. Lots of stuff for air to get caught up on and go around eh?
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/panels_6.jpg



A few nuts and bolts later we have a nice cover over some of those protruding transmission parts. Still not the smoothest thing around, but a definite improvement.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/panels_7.jpg



I'd really like to do some coast down tests with and without the panels on the bottom to see if there is any measurable difference with them. However, until it gets warmer out I won't even be thinking about that.

Silveredwings 01-29-2008 06:49 PM

maybe:
engine block heater?
mud flap delete?
spoiler delete?

Daox 01-29-2008 07:10 PM

I'd love to do a block heater, but that'll need to wait until its warm since it would be a freeze plug type. So, maybe this summer.

The mud flap delete probably won't happen. If anything, I'd like to do small boattails with them.

Spoiler delete was discussed a little bit in another thread. Its hard to say if it would decrease, or increase drag with taking it off since it is so low. Once I get enough other things done I'll probably look into it.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Daox 03-08-2008 11:24 PM

Well, I took this morning to take off the underdrive crankshaft pulley that was on the car. I wasn't having any problems with it, but have heard problems with their lack of vibration dampening shortening engine life. I expect this will actually hurt my economy a bit as it slowed down my alternator and water pump and was quite a bit lighter than the stock pulley. However, the engine only has 72,000 miles on it and I wouldn't mind it lasting quite a few more.

Along with the stock crankshaft pulley the car got the other underside panel put back on. I purposely left it off because I knew I was taking the pulley off as soon as I had sold it. So, a few bucks in my pocket, and my battery should be a little happier too.

Oh yeah, I also just pulled off my 2nd 50+ mpg tank in the car. This time it wasn't all highway driving either so I'm pretty psyched to see what I'll be getting when its actually warm outside!

Daox 03-20-2008 09:24 AM

Interesting discovery. I've finally gotten my scangauge back from being upgraded, so I put it in the Paseo. Water temp was a big thing I wanted to monitor with the vehicle so I could see how far I could go with grill blocking. To my amazement the car is running at 190-200°F already! As far as I know it has a 185° thermostat. I'm not sure what temp the fan kicks in. I'll have to look that up in the service manual tonight and double check the thermostat temp.

So, it doesn't look like I have much room to work. However, I plan on making room to work. How? By improving the efficiency of the stock setup. Currently, air enters the front bumper through the main opening, and two small side openings. It then goes wherever it wants and runs into many different things. I'm thinking that I will add some deflectors inside the front bumper to direct airflow directly over the radiator. This would stop air from going around the radiator and thus provide more consistant cooling. The image below is a top down view and kind of shows what I mean. The two small outer vents will eventually be covered.

http://www.tercelreference.com/downl...ator_setup.jpg

MetroMPG 03-20-2008 09:31 AM

Elegant idea. I like.

Otto 03-20-2008 11:16 AM

In re: Final drive ratio et al
 
Why not just use taller tires on the rear? This is much cheaper and easier than changing a tranny or differential, esp. if your existing unit is good, vs. unknown condition of a used replacement. TireRack et al have online data on tire circumference, traction, noise, longevity, etc.. I'm sure folks here also have anecdotal info on fuel economy of various tires. Easy to change if you don't like them.

And, as far as the fairings in front of the tires, use curved ones that are somewhat wider and taller, placed closer to the tires. A small plastic bucket of the approximate size and shape that Cool Whip or ice cream uses, cut longitudinally, would work fine. Reinforce with fiberglass, Great Stuff spray foam, or simply make a double layer. Spray it black.

Daox 03-20-2008 11:45 AM

Thanks for the suggestion Otto. Well, its a front wheel drive car, so I'd need larger tires on the front. But, I don't want to throw off my speedo/odometer. I'd just rather do it the right way. If I swap in a new diff the speedo stays right and I get to crack open a tranny which I've never done. If price were a major concern, I probably wouldn't even be thinking about doing as much as I currently am. If ease of the work was a concern I also wouldn't think about doing a smuch as I am. This is a fun thing that I enjoy, challenges me, and makes me learn. :)

Daox 03-20-2008 01:31 PM

So, I was reading Hucho on my lunch hour and came across a very nice little chart that plotted rear vehicle taper angle (off horizontal) versus Cd. Of course my own car immediately pops into mind and I must measure to get a good idea of how bad things are. Well, it turns out things AREN'T very bad at all! I went and grabbed a side view of a Paseo and popped it into my CAD software. Looks like my rear windshield angle is roughly 16.7°. According to the chart the optimum is very near 15°. Hurray for the Paseo for being pretty darn close.

http://www.tercelreference.com/downl...windshield.jpg


Of course, this brings up the idea of rear spoiler removal... we'll get to that later. ;)

Daox 03-26-2008 08:33 AM

Okay, I finally got a chance to look through the service manual. According to it, the thermostat should start to open up at 176-183°F. So, it looks like I'm going to be needing a new thermostat.

I also looked up at what temp my fan kicks in and its no big surprise that its on at 201°F. This is about the max temp I have hit so far. So, it sounds like my fan is probably kicking in quite a bit. I wish there was an easy way to monitor when its on vs off. I thought about splicing in a relay that powered a light, but I'd rather not cut into the wiring. In any case, I need to get the temp back down so I can go ahead with the aero mods and such.

Otto 03-26-2008 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daox (Post 16170)
Okay, I finally got a chance to look through the service manual. According to it, the thermostat should start to open up at 176-183°F. So, it looks like I'm going to be needing a new thermostat.

I also looked up at what temp my fan kicks in and its no big surprise that its on at 201°F. This is about the max temp I have hit so far. So, it sounds like my fan is probably kicking in quite a bit. I wish there was an easy way to monitor when its on vs off. I thought about splicing in a relay that powered a light, but I'd rather not cut into the wiring. In any case, I need to get the temp back down so I can go ahead with the aero mods and such.

Once you assure that your thermostat is working correctly, or install another T-stat with somewhat higher heat range, you may want to reconsider the amount of radiator blockage you have installed.

A small elliptical inlet (long axis horizontal) at the stagnation point on the nose of the car will add little or no drag, yet let the radiator breathe better. Proper outlet of cooling air is just as important (or moreso) than inlet design. A quick tuft test will tell you the stagnation point at highway speed. Unfortunately, this is at the license plate mount in many cars, and may mean moving the license plate.

NACA did a lot of work on cowl flaps and outlets for recip. engines during WWII, taking the best ideas from aircraft of any country, including Germany and Japan. Geometry of outlets back into the slipstream is a big deal, as the outlet acts like the gills of a fish--drawing the spent cooling air out via Venturi effect, a much more subtle and efficient method than brute force ramming it down the inlet throat. Fast fishes like tuna and shark would not be fast (or get breakfast) if they had to swim with their mouths wide open. Instead, they'd be breakfast.

Daox 03-26-2008 11:21 AM

Very good points Otto, and just what I had planned. Just yesterday I was wondering how many pieces I'll need for the tuft testing and thinking about what colors to use on the body and windshield for maximum viewability. :) But, I hadn't thought about the reintroduction of airflow. I was kind of thinking that with the bellypan the only exit for air will be the wheel wells. This is what Basjoos is currently doing.

Otto 03-26-2008 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daox (Post 16187)
Very good points Otto, and just what I had planned. Just yesterday I was wondering how many pieces I'll need for the tuft testing and thinking about what colors to use on the body and windshield for maximum viewability. :) But, I hadn't thought about the reintroduction of airflow. I was kind of thinking that with the bellypan the only exit for air will be the wheel wells. This is what Basjoos is currently doing.

Tuft testing on a motorcycle is easy since you can sit there and see the yarn. On a car, you'd presumably need a photographer in another vehicle at highway speed. At the nose, only a dozen or so tufts required.

Lots of cars (including my Porsche 944 Turbo) unnecessarily bugger the airflow around the nose by marginal installation of fog lights, too many inlets in the grill, etc.. At some point, I may start from scratch with a new nose cone, with one elliptical inlet, etc..

NACA tech papers can be found online, but I don't have a link. Radiused outlet geometry is key to gathering and venting the used cooling air back into the slipstream with minimal drag. The air molecules communicate with each other all along the stream. That sounds nuts, and may be, but it's true. So, downstream molecules influence upstream ones, which then wander off the path. Cooling needs to be holistic, i.e., input, throughput, and output all smoothly mated and compatible. Efficient outlet design may be more critical than inlet, since a good outlet will draw air into and through the cooling system, whereas a good inlet can get the cooling air to the radiator, but then the air may be jammed for lack of proper outlet, so stop flowing well. This is certainly the case with my Porsche intercooler, which has a superb inlet diffuser duct to the heat exchanger, but then leaves the spent air trying to find its way back to the slipstream somehow. I may install a cowl flap.

Heat rises, so vents along the sides of the hood about half way back may be pretty efficient, inducing Venturi suction of hot air from the engine compartment.

FWIW, in the P-51, the belly cooler was pretty efficient, and actually gave the plane a bit of thrust as heated air rejoined the slipstream.

Daox 03-30-2008 05:38 PM

Well, it got above 40°F today, so I was out working on the Paseo. I took a lookg between the bumper and the deflectors I had initially planned on making are going to be a bit tougher than originally thought. The contours inside the bumper cover are not exactly easy to replicate. There is also no way to mount the deflectors. Here is why. The red line indicates where the deflector would go. On both sides there are a few obstructions.

http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car 004.jpg



So, I'm going to need to think about how I'm going to do those some more.

In the mean time. I did something else that'll also help. I took some of our favorite piping insulation and stuffed it all around the radiator so as to create a seal around it. Now, very little air should be able to go around the radiator instead of through it. This should reduce the amount of air needed to pass through the grill, and allow me to close more of it off. Here are the pics.

Before. Its hard to see, but theres roughly a .25 - .5 inch gap between the radiator and the support member.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car 013.jpg


After.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car 014.jpg


Before.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car 012.jpg


After.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car 018.jpg


Before.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car 017.jpg


After.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car 022.jpg




This is by no means a replacement for the deflectors. As you can see in the 2nd to last picture there is a big opening where the headlight is (look in the lower right). The deflector would go between the radiator and headlight opening so air can't just go through that hole. However, its a start. It'll be interesting to see if this has any effect on the coolant temperature.

Speaking of coolant temperature, I picked up my 192°F thermostat (180°F is stock) this Saturday when I was out and about for emissions testing. I'll have to get that in, but I would like to see what this does to the setup as it currently is.

MetroMPG 03-30-2008 09:39 PM

I like your thinking on this one - optimizing the flow through the radiator means you can have the most effectively sized block ahead of it. Thumbs up.

Daox 03-31-2008 10:02 AM

Yep, thats the idea. Autospeed did an article on this a while back about doing the same thing, but they did it to an intercooler. It dropped intake temps a few degrees.

I have to say, the more I look at it, the more work it seems needs to be done. If anyone has any ideas that could simplify this I'd be all ears. :)

Daox 04-21-2008 08:50 AM

Its been about a week now, but I do have the 192°F thermostat in. It appears that the original thermostat was not a problem as the scangauge now shows that my coolant temp is 12°F higher than it was before (original thermostat was 180). The scangauge now shows my coolant temp around 211-213, yet the radiator fan doesn't kick in (its supposed to kick on at 201), so I know something is messed up. It looks like the coolant temp sensor may be shot. Luckily this isn't a very expensive part either.

On top of figuring that out, another problem has arisen. I've had a small exhaust leak near the back of the car for a while now where it goes up and over the rear axle. I just haven't had the time until last week to fix it. So, I got it all welded back up and this quieted down the car. However, I can now hear another problem! The front brakes are dragging a fair amount. So, add that to the checklist of things to do.

Its good to know something can be fixed and my mileage will increase, but its bad to know theres more maintenance to do.

MetroMPG 04-23-2008 08:14 AM

Dragging front brakes - good find.

Firefly #1 had that problem, and fixing it made a noticeable improvement in gliding distance. The car used to come to a slight but discernable "stop" with the draggy calipers and that went away when I replaced them (there was corrosion on the pistons).

dremd 04-23-2008 10:17 AM

NICE Oddly enough I almost purchased a Paseo rather than my First Supra. I wonder how different things would be if I had . . .

I'm sure that you already know this, but if your caliber slides + pistons check out Ok, but the brakes still drag your issue likely lies in the flexible brake hoses.

Daox 05-01-2008 11:51 AM

Well, I did the brake job last night (sorry, no pics) and everything went fine. The Paseo now has brand new pads and rotors. So, I went to bed in the new brakes and low and behold the noise is still there. I'm a bit annoyed as I'm now thinking its probably a wheel bearing. Its a bit noisy when going straight, but when I turn right it gets louder on the right side. I'll be checking this out this weekend hopefully.

In the mean time I have hit my best tank despite the problems. I must say I'm a bit surprised that I pulled off 53.7 mpg with these problems.

Daox 05-13-2008 09:43 PM

The saga of maintenance continues.

Tonight I pulled the hub off the Paseo to replace the front passenger wheel bearing. Not too much to it and it went easier than I thought. Tomorrow I'll be taking the hub in to get the bearing pressed out and new bearing installed. This time I got pics. ;)


Everything pulled off.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car166.jpg


The hub.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car169.jpg


The bearing and seals.
http://www.tercelreference.com/downloads/car179.jpg

MetroMPG 05-13-2008 09:57 PM

Good stuff. Coincidentally, I ordered the passenger side front wheel bearing for the ForkenSwift too. Should be in tomorrow.

Daox 05-17-2008 01:50 PM

Well, the hub is back on the car and it rolls NICE now. :D The downside was the press work cost me $40 (almost the cost of the bearing). Pretty steep for a few minutes of work IMO. In any case, I'm sure it was a lot cheaper than taking it in. Plus, it was fun. :)

ncc74656m 05-21-2008 05:06 PM

Hey Daox, I didn't know you were doing this stuff! I just happened to cruise by this board while looking for ways to increase the mileage of my new Corolla and found your thread! Cool. If I find anything relevant to your Matrix, I'll let you know!

Daox 05-21-2008 10:34 PM

Hey Ncc. Yeah, I've been looking into fuel economy for a while now. The Paseo is running strong and should be hitting 55+ shortly. I have a duplicate thread on its build up on TO. The Matrix isn't quite up there since my wife drives it in the city a lot, but I can hit 40+ pretty easy when I drive it.

I'd recommend starting a intro thread here. We'll really boost up the mileage in your Corolla. :)

dsq 05-22-2008 01:21 AM

daox,
i went to http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm and looked for the mpg of the 97 paseo and they didnt have your fastback model there?They listed the 4dr model mpg at 29mpg...but they had an individual from wisconsin list their mpg at 42.1 mpg!That wouldnt be you would it?
I am actually very interested in the paseo as fastback cars are excellent for camping/sleeping and carrying a bicycle in.
Are there any paseo models that are better/worse than others??
Your mods are inspirational.I cant beleive what im reading on this site-its great.Does the paseo come with those panels under the engine block?

Daox 05-22-2008 06:53 AM

The picture is incorrect on the fueleconomy.gov site. The picture under my name on the left and the one below is the car. Those are my numbers on the site though. I saw nobody had entered any so why not? I indicate on the site that my driving style is fully to drive for fuel economy.

The car really is not big and can't haul much. I'm only about 5'6" and hit my head on the rear windshield in the back seat so its really a 2+2. However, the back seats do fold down and you can get some things to fit in there. Unfortunately, the whole back hatch doesn't open up, just the small trunk lid area. The rear deck is solid and stops you from being able to carry larger items. You might be able to fit a bike in there, but it would be very tight. I can check to see if mine fits in there for you if you'd like. Sleeping could probably be done in it, but I'm not sure how comfortable it would be. You could only get one person in it too.

http://www.tercelreference.com/Downloads/paseo2.jpg


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