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The demons are winning and they say I should mod my volt
I've been chipping away at my volt, getting the efficiency up. The goal is to stretch my 75MPH range circle enough to make trips downtown and back not need gas. I could just slow down but what where's the challenge there?
Stuff I've done so far: Tinted every window on the volt with 3M crystalline to cut down on air conditioning load. (I live in arizona. I run the AC 50 weeks out of the year out of necessity.) Figured out the sweet spot for tire PSI ( stock pressure tears through tires fast, too high and the tires won't grip, I like to be able to do evasive manuvers)-- later Stuff on the block: do PM and clean the EGR cooler *before* the walk home fuse blows. Fix the torn up underbelly panels. Expand underbelly panels. Replace existing tires with EV tires once I wear the tires out. Reduce heat load coming in from roof. Put more soundproofing into the car since NVH makes me go faster. Put on side skirts on the real wheels. Maybes: Hitch mount boat tail. Caveat: Must be removable since I have a trailer. Rebuild the trailer to ride lower, add a cover to the trailer bed. Better nose. (do an aerocivic style intake ducting. ) Caveat: Must be able to provide enough cooling air to handle 4000 ft climbs at 75 MPH while pulling a trailer with 105F ambients. Yes, I'm crazy but this is an actual design case. |
Cooling cabin: Possibly illegal and dangerous, but have you thought of wrapping your car in aluminum foil to reflect 99% of the sun's rays?
I like the removeable boat-tail idea. |
https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-f...pe-ii-boat.jpg
My design for a retractable boat tail was sized for a van, but the idea was that a rigid plate forms an extension of the diffuser as it swings down into position. A truncated boat tail could have a four-bar linkage. There's a thread on reflective roofs. Ultra-white > aluminum. |
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As for the cargo box, I run a full size spare so the spare takes up most of my cargo area behind the back row. I want that space back but I don't want to give up my full size spare. Plus, sometimes I have to use the back row and that means I can't just keep the seats folded down and use it like a pickup all the time. Thus: Since my car has adaptive cruise it's the go to for road trips. Rigid box so that on road trips, we can stow the luggage I don't need to grab on the trip and save the space behind the seat for stuff like snacks and drinks. ESP if I go full send and emulate the aerocivic since that'd give me about 6 hours of fuel at 85 MPH or nearly 8 hours at 75. Hell, if I drop down to 65 I'm looking at near 11 hours of fuel WITH the AC running... giving 706 miles vs 580 at 85. (I'm doing all design cases with AC running because heat sensitive.) I'm aware that it'll cost me about a third of my range to run the AC. |
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Part of the reason to be able to drop the boattail is because there are times I want my car to blend in. Like when trying to shake a tail. |
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If the boat tail held the spare horizontally at bumper height, it might serve as rear impact protection. If the white was a Larry Watson-style panel, it might make your car look too much like a low rider. Use PlastiDip. It peels right off. |
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if you care about max heat rejection, youd get rid of the 3m tints and switch to xpel xr plus. its the best on the whole market. its how i get my black car to survive phoenix heat with the ac fans at the lowest possible speed
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Just how much better is Xpel XR plus? I'm running ceramic 20 in the back, CR70 in the front. Last time I was in phoenix, the car was able to keep the heat under control... OTOH, the main thing I have causing problems is that I need it cold. |
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