DIY advice? dead starter or solenoid?
 

I am determined to fix this myself, because that should be cheaper and it seems a simple, easily accessed part to replace/check. I think the starter has failed, not the solenoid. Here is a youtube video I posted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH6Abuh_gNw
When you listen to the sounds, what do you think? Also, notice that my UG on the dashboard has reset and is scanning. Total power loss at some point? Battery is fine. The clicking is the solenoid, right? And that low whrrr at the beginning is the starter trying and failing to turn, yes? This problem suddenly appeared yesterday, and after a quick run to the store today, for which it started fine, it now fails.

I'm thinking I probably need a new starter.

Start by cleaning and checking the connections from the battery to the solenoid. Jump a wrench between the solenoid terminals. The large ones. If that cranks the motor, its not the starter.

From the sounds, it's a weak/discharged battery, or a bad connection from battery to solenoid.

Go over to your local parts store and have the battery load tested (free). It could be a bad battery or a bad starter. There is definately a low voltage under load situation going on, which probably means the solenoid is okay. Also check the battery/engine ground situation. The electrical circuit has to be complete to operate properly. Solenoid is on the starter, so no jumping possible (reference to above post).

Yeah, you can jump it. That's how i had to start my civic for awhile when the key switch barrel broke and wouldn't rotate to the start position.

Thanks guys for taking the time to advise. I fumbled with the thing more this afternoon. The battery seems good, if full lights and blasting the radio is still possible means anything. The battery ground is okay. The connections to the solenoid are clean (I took the terminals off). I was able to bump-start shoving it out of my driveway. I parked on a hill for the night. I'll stop by my parts store and maybe the dealer tomorrow. I'd rather not be parking on hills for days! I could possibly get a new starter/solenoid for $140 or less. Might be worth it.

The starter is working normally again! I'm going back to square one... check battery... if I need a new battery it's a good chance to get a deep cycle one.

If you have a charger turn on the lights and see if the battery dumps in less than 30 minutes. If it holds up for 30 minutes it's not dead yet, recharge it and look elsewhere.

Hook a volt meter from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block. When cranking you should see virtually no voltage reading. If you see anything over .25 volt you have a bad connection. Do the same thing from the positive battery terminal to the point where the positive cable connects to the starter.

Check your cranking voltage as well. Should be over 10 volts minimum.

regards
Mech

I did not get to see the vid as it is blocked here at work but I would check all the ground spots in the engine bay and clean them while checking the cables for corrosion.

A deep cycle battery won't help you. You need to troubleshoot your battery connections, ground, ignition switch, and starter connections.

I wonder if this was not a consequence of too much EOC combined, especially, with shutting the engine off at lights and using the starter motor to get going again. What do you think?

Used this as a good excuse to get a voltmeter and tested the battery, which read in the normal range (13v). But I noticed that sometimes it cut out. The positive terminal has corosion, not very noticable really, under the plastic insulating cover, that seems to interrupt power sometimes, a little, not totally, it seems. But even before I did this test, the starter had started working normally again--AFTER I bump-started and drove around a bit. I think my combination of EOC and frequent shut-offs at lights might have run the battery down.

Do now I don't shut off at lights, and I generally park on a hill and bump start, saving, maybe, alternator draw on the motor. Opinions?