Doin what they say cant be done.
 

Hello all. After reading through numerous threads on ecomodder ive decided to journal out my endeavors.

I plan to get about 20 (maybe more) out of my 1999 ram 3500 v10 4x4 auto.

So far after reading on all the big custom truck forums they all say you cant get no more than 10 mpg out of what i am driving. Then again they're most likely deep southerners who belive open tailgates improve aero qualities.

Ive been doing alot of research on aerodynamics. Used a few cheesy free apps to cfd some ideas. And done alot of sitting besides imagining the airflow. As well as researching when i have the time to.

Anyway. For a plan of attack.

Again im dealing with a '99 ram 3500 v10. 488 cubes of double wide pulling torque, An aweful ride when unloaded, decently quiet on the highway and an automatic transmission sutable only for the cheapest pre modern era econo cars.

In short, i hate it. But at the same time i love it to death. Or at least love the ideas i have for it. Because its either spend $20,000 for a used diesel thats been chipped out or spend $10,000 make what i have now do as good or better than the diesel varient.

Ive been wanting a truck for a long time. Ive owned plenty of 40+Mpg econoboxes, but they cant haul what makes me money.


So im planning an aero shell. With extenable boat tail for longer trips. All with the ability to angle up to a full shell and or easy removal.

Smooth underbelly, wheel skirts and something of a front air dam.

Manual transmission swap. When i have the funds ill start scouting junkyards to find either the 5 or 6 speed that was offered behind the v10's and cummins. And rebuild it for reliability sake.

Change all fluids to thinnest possible synthetic. I havent changed them all since i bought the truck so that needs to happen anyway.

Lower the suspension, and sooner or later convert to air. As it sits i can drop about an inch up front and 4.5" round back. Thats to keep it level as well as allow suspension clearence for ride quality. And for running air springs all the way around. I would like to have the ability to change ride height on the fly so i can drop it down more on the highway, when bumps are minimal. As well as better handle any load put in the back.

Im probably not going to go full blast with the aero work as i still need it to be a truck. I live in a camper and need to be able to move it around when needed (although as little as possible. (Also an eco adventure)). And i frequently do welding work and need to fit a lincoln sa200 in the back. I take it out when i know im not going to need it for a while as it with all the gear adds around 3000 lbs to the back.

Ive also been toying with the idea of turning it into a homebrew hybrid. My thoughts are to get a 50 hp electric motor, appropiate controller and decent amount of battery to cruise 50 miles on a charge. If even possible. With regen braking and a manual transmission i think that alone could massively improve efficiency. To do it i would put the electric motor just behind and to the side of the transmission/transfercase. The driveshaft is a two piece unit, meaning halfof the shaft stays at the same angle all the time. I think i could do a belt drive to that to drive the wheels. Ive also had thoughts of raiding a prius and somehow jamming that in to drive the back, and convert the v10 to drive the front. But thats just silly.

Anyway. Like i said. I want to record everything i do to this truck somewhere and figured this was the place to do it. You guys can chime in on what works. What doesnt. Call out my bs. Whatever.

Ill add some pictures as soon as i can. I want to be as detailed as possible for anyone else thinking about doing the same to there cars. :thumbup:

I love your spirit. It's great to accomplish what people say can't be accomplished.

With hypermiling it's a hundred tiny things eventually adding up to big improvements.

If you're nimble enough to jump inside you can remove the big pipe footstep things to save some weight.

You can also shorten the stalks for the mirrors, or maybe replace them with adjustable stalks so you can have them in close unless towing.

You can probably get partial side skirts installed in the back wheel wells pretty easily.

If you get a ScanGauge II to monitor water temp you can partially block the grill in an aerodynamic fashion. SG can also help with other aspects of hypermiling.

To help you:

- Grillblock (and proper coolant and oil temperature monitor)
Helps warm up and aerodynamics
- (road)Tyres with low rolling resistance if you do only roads.
- Tyre deflectors for aero
- Hot/warm air intake for fuel economy
- Undertray for aero
- Other differential gears in front and rear axle for lower cruising rpm.
- Accelerate at 80% load and keep rpm as low as possible
- Search for the mod/hack other people have don to manually lock the torqueconverter (more efficient acceleration)

Thats what i know of gassers. I aim a diesel boy.
Probably a lot more but i aim on hollyday and this is what i know first tought.

YAY!!! Some replies!


anyway...


i have already blocked the grille. still have yet to take a picture of it, and have yet to go through a tank to see what its done. so far however this tank I've been mostly city driving so thats not helping. I'm allready a gauge watcher and so far my coolant temp (on the dash) hasn't gone up. i do use dash command and a wifi obd2 adapter to see what the computer sees. and its reading only a few degrees higher than usual. also watching the ambient temp on the overhead it says a few over what it actually is outside when cruising, and picks up on acceleration. so I'm not too worried. there is still plenty of airflow to the radiator for normal driving. the bumper has a few slots as well as a half inch gap from the grill to bumper.

I'm thinking that alone isn't worth too much considering its a one ton 4x4 pickup. however, i do feel as if adding the block does add a high pressure area just in front of the truck to help push the lower pressure air around. if that makes any sense. I'm no aerodynamic wizard but like i said, I've been doing as much research as i can. I'm sure ill have a few questions to bounce around the users around here.

and i work night shift so ill get some pictures up of the block when i get up... :)

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...7&d=1486469851

Why did you start with such a small engine? ;) I have a 2001 2500HD 8.1L 496 Big Block, Allison Auto, 4x4. Internet lore states it can't get over 10-11 MPG. Just doing basic "nice" driving techniques with a flat tonneau bedcover will get me up to 14MPG highway. The stick shift will enable you to do more advanced eco driving, i.e. coasting down hills and to stops.

I would focus on doing your aero bedcover first, as that is probably the biggest single aero improvement you could make, and you will notice the improvement more than the smaller aero pieces that make a smaller impact. Focus on making the aero shell useful, i.e. hinge or other mechanism to open, water tight storage when shut, and not just a bother that needs removed to do "real work". Since I infer you know how to weld, I would suggest you use that skill to make a really nice one. Think about things like a built in toolbox accessed from the driver side, but that doesn't interfere with loading things the full width between the wheel wells. Or even get a hatchback or two from a junkyard and put that together into a shell, using the factory seals and flanges to ensure it is watertight.

Welcome to the site. That is a lot of planned work. I look forward to reading about your progress.

I have a suburban with a 7.4L V8 and I was told I would be lucky to get double digit fuel economy.
With only engine mods and engine off coasting I was able to increase fuel economy from 6.6mpg in town to 12mpg and highway driving was as high as 16MPG.

That part doesn't sound impossible at all, but I still believe you'd be better off working around the electric drive unit applied to the rear axle of those Toyota Highlander hybrid SUVs and repurpose it to drive the front wheels of your rig. Attempting to make the V10 drive the front wheels would be not impossible at all, but not worth the endeavor since you'd presumably have to repurpose a transfer case to set the angle from the transmission to the front differential and that would add some weight and friction.

Ive been inbetween using 2x4's and ply wood, 1/2" tube tig welded frame and film or fabric. Or some form of metal frame and plastic sheeting.

Ease of use is a must. And beig able to tuck all my welding equiptment underneath would be awesome. The only real problem is my sa200 sits just a tad higher than the roof line with the frame that it sits on now. Id post some pictures of that current setup but i get one bar of 3g where i work (and 10 hrs a day. Im dead asleep when im home.). Currently the welder sits longitudinally. Raised up on a frame to clear the gooseneck ball. Also makes for a pain to fire it up (which im planning to put a catylitic converter and muffler on. When i got the rig setup the exhasut just dumps straight out the top.). I want to modify the frame that all sits in so that the welder sits laterally towards the front of the bed. And run the exhaust for it through the shell. I guess i would have to draw a picture to better show what im thinking.

Anyway having all my equipment in the bed doesnt hurt mpg's too much. And if i could rearrange everything to fit under an aeroshell i could keep it all in there, out of the weather and locked up. I dont have the rig together right now as im not going to need it for a while, i got an indoor welding job at the moment and have no need for it. As well as the fact im scared somebody will rip away the 200' of copper cable just sitting back there otherwise.

So i guess that brings up some issues now that i think about it. Plastic wouldnt like the heat too much. Wood is flammable. So i guess i should make it out of sheet metal. Rear visability wouldnt be possible with the welder back there anyway. And a smooth paint job would look smashing.

Another anyway. Ive been thinking about having the shell extend to just above the windshield. So as to take away that angle. But that would increase frontal area. Doing so would enable more cargo space. And i would think a smoother transition from the windshield to the tailgate would be beneficial.

Ive been researching some on vortex generators. You see em on street rally cars all the time. So what if i put some small ones toward the back of the cab roof (assuming a topper that starts at that corner.)? From what i can tell they increase drag themselves but break up the boundry layer, further reducing drag overall. Perhaps i should build the topper first, get some numbers in, then make some easy to attach/remove (magnetic?) vortex generators to test if they really work. And being magnetic would allow for placement at different areas to find the best solution.

If only i had a wind tunnel.

Ill do some research. Im pretty cheap when it comes to buying things. Very few things i have bought new. If i can get an electric drive system for far less than the $10,000 ive been able to put together online then we're on to something. And the main reason im doing all this is to save some cash in the long run.

I really like the idea of a hybrid and ev. The problem with full ev is range. As soon as they figure out a 300 mile battery that fills in a few hours ide be all over it. (Super capacitor?). And hybrids are an ingenious solution to a problem that should have never existed in the first place. Being able to store braking energy i think is a technical marvel. Of course its just science. But brilliant in an oil fueled world.

I read something about an energy aborbing suspension. And made me start thinking "how would i build that". If i could run a rack and pinion. Rack moves with the suspenison and pinion driving a generator. How much dampening effect would it have. Ive been dreaming up a tube frame luxury car for a long time and keep adding new theories to it. It would have a fully adjustable suspension for optimal ride comfort. And therefor would move alot. I want to do some form of hybrid or electric drive to make it as quiet as possible. (Again, this car is just a theory in my head. But its gonna happen. When i have a shop to play around in.)

A nuclear powered car would be awesome. Never have to put anything but water into it. But that has its own issues. :eek:

And no its not an impossible thought. Its just finding all the bits that would work in my situation.

I did front drive on my jeep zj for a while. Just plugged up the rear of the transfer case and put it in 4 wheel drive. The rear axle pinion bearings wore out and i got tired of the whining. Finally fixed it though. And never noticed an mpg drop during that time.

[dangles red meat]

Heh. Welcome. (I'm a little curious how you could post a picture at Permalink #4, and not be up to 5 posts currently)

My own obsession is the VW Beetle, and my reckoning is half from aero and half from drivetrain. Here is the drivetrain cRiPpLe_rOoStEr mentioned:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...6479-level.jpg

It wants 400volts, but for 50 mile range you could use lead acid batteries and a buck/boost inverter.

What I'm curious about is the use case. Our member slowmover is good on that (driver input costs gas!). One of the biggest changes you could make is wheels and tires. You might be able to swap out two sets for different scenarios.

Edit: I went back and read some more. The nuclear power and vortex generators can go into the Unicorn Corral. You can induce turbulence with sandpaper. The human-power racers have something I think they call zip-tape[?]

I fully support the aerocap that extends over the cab. I'd include a visor that extends over the top 1/4th of the windshield, big-rig style. You could integrate the tailgate from a Dodge Magnum. It's whole roofline is optimal, just graft the whole thing onto hinges.

Else, consider a material like Polymetal:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...1-100-0866.jpg

PREFINISHED! And it can be rolled, sheared and braked by hand, as these samples were. Stiff as 5/8" plywood at 1/10th the weight.

I run these tires at the sidewall pressure. 80 psi. And they say eco sumthin on the side. I havent googled em to see whats what.

I was googling toyota's hsd and diddnt get much farther than the system the prius uses. If i could bolt on a cheap used inline drive unit i would be all giggles.

I was doing some shopping for lipofe batteries. And from the research ive seen one can get about 2 miles per kwh with my aero qualities. I could get around 200 miles of range for $10,000 and a thousand lbs (would be awesome. But nope). And i havnt gotten too far on the math with individual 3v 100 amp/hr cells wired in series. I could use flooded batteries. But a: maintenence and b: weight vs size vs power capabilies. Im using 2 200 amp/hr deep cycles in the camper and 200 watts on the roof. It works fine but does get kinda low running the furnace over night. Someday ill switch that over to lipo when they get old.


Anyway the hybrid drive is most likely that last thing ill do. The sheer cost is the limiting factor.

Sometime within the week im going to replace the catylitic converters. When i got the truck the o2 sensors where bad. Since ive replaced them ive seen a few miles more. But the cats rattle at idle. And i want to swap out to a freer flowing muffler thats still decently quiet. Ive heard these trucks benefit greatly with exhaust work. Headers especially. I also want to get a tuner to reflash the computer.

Ive got a bundle of guages picked out on amazon and a tri pillar. Vacuum, wideband o2 and trans temp. I dont know how much the o2 guage will help being that its fuel injected. But would be nice to know.

Im also planning some better fuel injectors. I havnt pulled these out but i can only assume theyre single hole. I put quad hole injectors in my old jeep and saw a mile or so more. And much smoother running. Thats another bite to the wallet for new ones. I got junkyard injectors for the jeep and never really had a problem. Finding 6 was a pain though. 10 of em that flow right may be no better.

The newer generation injectors would likely help.
You could always buy up used ones on ebay to get 10 total.
You could just gut the converters if you don't live in a smog prone area and don't have emissions testing. I have found aftermarket replacements can last for as little as a year or 2, before they start to rattle. It would free up more $ for other mods.

The Highlander/Lexus part runs $400-$1000 used, $2500 new (in round numbers) on eBay; I paid $650. Major expenses in adapting to the axle shafts and all the other bits and pieces (inverters and chargers and contactors, oh my!)

I found a whole bunch of injectors on ebay. Problem is theyre all 24-30 lb injectors. From what ive been able to get out of google, the stock is about 20lb. I dont necessarily want to max out what the computer can adjust in stock form. Ive had thoughts of upping the crompression to about 9.5:1, stock is 8.4:1. And thoughts of swapping a new cam into it. Only problem is i can only find cams with more lift and duration. So more upper end hp. Woukd help deal with larger injectors, Not what im looking for. It allready has roller lifters. And roller rockers are definitely on my list. Surely raising the compression alone can make a decent improvement.

The only other way i can think of to reduce internal losses is to balance everything to within a half gram of each other. I think that while the block deck height is being shaved ill balance the rods and pistons myself. Then crank by the machinist. As long as the ring ridge is acceptable i would just twist on some new rings and dingleball the cylinders. But, while its all apart, just bore it smooth and get some new lighter pistons and proper forged rods to make things more happy. I priced out to rebuild my old 4.0 inline 6 many times and with pretty much everything it came to around $1500 with machine work. But that was for more power. The valvetrain alone was $500 of that.


Anyway. I thought about gutting the cats but that seems counter productive to me. And i like that they muffle things down quite a bit. I put a mew one on my jeep 4 years ago and its still together.

So. Ive got a muffler picked out. Cherry bomb turbo 16835cb. I need to measure things out again to make sure i got the right size picked out. And a couple cats seem to be around $80 each at the cheapest. If im going to retain the smog pump i need to make sure its got the right bung hole in it for those air lines.

Things would be much easier if i removed that system all together. Should i just ditch the smog pump and get normal cat's?

rdefayettes aluminum aeroshell a model for you. Simple, and practical.

Weight has more effect on gassers than on diesels. Cylinder pressure. Time for a cranking compression test. Cylinder leakage will hurt tremendously. We used to never worry over it so much with big blocks as displacement helped it to continue to do its job. On my last one I got it to 17-19/mpg at 55-60/mph (car) with one cylinder almost below spec.

But that car weighed 4,760-lbs all up. Your truck has a huge amount of weight to overcome just in rolling from a start.

That truck isn't needed to move a travel trailer, but with the welder (and I assume) quite a lot of gear and supplies, I can see the appeal.

However, if moved infrequently, that can be hired out to an RV transporter. And the rest better covered by a car or smaller pickup with a decent trailer.

AAA and Edmunds both have worksheets on total cost of ownership. Most of us pay highly for convenience. Without IRS deductible miles, it's overly expensive to buy what is essentially a full time work vehicle (generates its own income) and use it for personal transportation, especially commuting.

I really like the 488. Remember them well. A popular alternative to the Cummins of the era. More and better power (useful) in many cases.

So, start with records. All those receipts showing fuel purchases. Use a journal or Fuelly. One needs to know the annual cost per mile for fuel. Changes in fuel economy are percentage changes to the average annual mpg. MPG gains are more slippery than they appear.

Complete book service after engine condition analysis. Given the age new body and bed bushings. Steering needs to be like new, this is huge for 4WD pickups.
Tire pressure should be reasonable. Too high is a bad idea from
Standpoint of safety. Longevity isn't improved either.


The mantra is fewer miles via trip consolidation and planning. Accomplish the same things, but with far fewer cold starts. Then drive the remaining miles more efficiently.

Cut annual miles. Record a higher average mph (engine hours versus odometer miles). With some new habits at the wheel, note percentage gain for gallons consumed.

THEN will upgrades show any benefit. One must have separated the wheat from the chaff or expensive changes will show false benefits.

There's always a minimum as to usage. Minimum miles to have accomplished the same ends. Will proposed changes affect that low miles number enough to be of benefit, is the real question.

One must have records.

If one is still in the mind set that increasing tank range with no changes to driver skill and vehicle use, then it's an expensive road made more expensive. Not less.

The money is in use. Type and frequency. What is the minimum?

My thought is why pull a trailer to work everyday (let alone usual campground parking.) and still get around 13 mpg with something suitable to tow all that gear. I bonked my jeeps average from 16 to 22 highway by footwork alone. But having the 4.0 and 4000lbs loaded i woukd accel at half throttle or so and watch the inst guage like a hawk to keep it above a set amount.

Anyway. I understand how to drive light footed up hills. The problem is whenever you open the taps on the v10 it sucks like a cow.

And yes im going to keep a log of fuel spent vs money used for upgrades. Of course you want everything to pay itself off as soon as possible. And i plan to drive this truck as long as i can. Its the nicest vehicle ive had yet. Would i rather a nice sedan hybrid? Yeah. But with the skills i have and bassackwards thinking i normally do the truck is the way to go. Most of my jobs im working 60+ hrs a week out in the field. But i got this inside gig makin decent cash. And it aint going to last long.

I just got the truck maybe 6 months ago. After being an apprentice for a few years. And the welding rig was cheap off some old guy who was retireing.

And plus i like the mechanical challenge. As ive gotten used to the truck ive squeezed a mile more out of it. But the gas pedal cant do anything to cut down on aero and mechanical drag.

I said it before, if i could average 20+ with non hybrid modifications i would be happy. The ev idea is exactly that. An idea. I would need to see what ive done so far to pay it self off before i invest in that.

Weight is a massive issue with any vehicle. Apart from stripping the body panels off and swapping with fiberglass, theres not too much i can do. I allready keep only the necessary tools for the job with me. And as i sit right now. The truck is unloaded.

Anyway im not trying to start any arguments. Just sharing my adventures and trying to get some input. The truck aint going anywhere. And if im not trying to get decent economy out of it someone else would still be getting less than 10 everyday in it.

No idea why you didn't just Edit->Delete the 2nd post???

I like slowmover's posts but this:
...is pretty cryptic. I think it may be what I called 'use case'.

Still wanting to see the layout, so I can suggest gull-wing doors over the tools in the front of the bed.

I want to get 100 mpg with my car but saying so isn't doin' it.

Good luck.

Can the welder be oriented side to side ,or is it too big? If it is to big use this template to re form your shape.template C you may endup with more a fish tail than a whale tail. Its fine to go past the tailgate and continue to reduce your wake. My V 2 will probably go 12-18" past, insted of my 8". Just account for opening the tailgate without having to pop the top and driveway angles when hooked up and loaded down for a move.

--- moderators
Can some one get the overhead view template C put in the tools link with the over lay feature of the side view (said looking towards the sky)
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http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-gu...ning-angle.jpg
Its hard to make out with the trees but its 1/2"x.065"round with 1"x065" square edge. This is covered with 12mil industrial heat shrink wrap .. you could easily add an access door for the welder controls and cables. If you want a stronger more durable skin then look at Oratex 600 /6000. The 6000 is 1/2 oz./square foot. So named by the wight of aircraft certification in kilograms . V1.0 was 21lbs for the opening part ( White Part in sig) V1.2 is 35lbs (added ~20'of 1/2"x065 round and 1/2" foam insulation with mylar)
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...cap-31981.html
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You stated that the welder is taller than normal to clear the gooseneck ball. Do you tow GN?
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At first the wideband O2will teachyou when the computer is programed to do things like enrichment. You will see at what (") of vac.it goes rich. It may also go off how fast the needle moves. Your best mpg will b the result of maintaining the highest average vac. and the highest possible vac to maintain speed . The 2nd part is adjusting the throttle ever so slightly to account for even the smallest changes in grade.
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OP questioned wether or not a 1ton was nessasary.
It sounds like a 1ton may be almost light duity for the lashings you give it . 3000lbs in the bed for welding gear on bord. And you leave home what you can! So this means that its probably closer to 4000lbs on bord +travel trailer. You have not stated any info on theTT just gussing from the TT in the pic . AC normally centered on TT so about 22' at 250/foot =5500lbs + gear. At 10% tongue weight thats at least 4550lbs load+ truck on thr rear axel without weight distribution system. The full of fule rear axle weight would have to be under 2500lbs for single wheel stock 245/75R16 are 3200ish lbs each.
Never guess with safety always scale the rig . Find out how much things change with and without trailer you could find that 550lbs tongue is closer ot 900lbs on the tires with weight transfer off the front.
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Free spin hub kit. You have a center disconnect stock but everything is still spinning and that will burn fule. Just make shure to put it in 4x4 atleast one a month to keep the berings rotated and lubed.
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Synthetic everything

the 3000 lbs is an over estimate. i know the welder alone is 1500lbs, the bed frame that came with it is something like 2"x6" thick wall square steel. too much really for what its needed for. and it weighs a lot in itself. often times 50 lbs of rod, 100 lbs of cables, and tools i never weighed. plus boxes.

my trailer is a 30' bumper pull. 8000 lbs empty, 10,000 weight rating. i haven't measured the tongue weight but the manual says 1000 lbs. i do use a weight distributing hitch when towing.

when empty the truck squats maybe an inch. with the welder as well maybe half that... the overload springs really come into play there.


anyway. i don't have any gooseneck trailers. and the previous owner had a ball in his bed and built the frame around it. which just fits into any 8' bed. i put it in there when i bought the welder, then used it to build some corrals while the winter was hindering jobs. then i got a deal working inside for decent wage and am rather comfortable, but not making anywhere near as much welding pipe... but i am pretty comfortable working in a climate controlled facility... so...

currently the welder is sitting at home. ill go down there as soon as i get a day off. do some measurements of the welder and gear so i can get a better idea of what i want to do. I'm pretty sure it will fit transverse in the bed. i see quite a few of the same welder mounted that way in other rigs.

i like the gull wing idea. my first thoughts where to have a hinge mount at the top of the cab and tilt up. but you would have to open it pretty far to reach the controls as well as allow sufficient airflow for cooling. i do want to build a rod oven using the coolant from the welder. but thats another deal....

I'm going to go pick up all synthetic lubes today while I'm in town. i gotta get groceries anyway. fridge has been empty for a few days now...


so here is some pictures. the grille block i promised the other day. not much other than cardboard cut out, wrapped with duct tape and zip tied on.

and my dash app.

the large left is inst mpg, smaller left is average and small left lower is over what the big instant reads. never goes over 25mpg...

and large right is ign timing, smaller is "vacuum", actually throttle position. and small lower right is calculated load. and small upper middle is coolant temp.

this alone has helped with economy. for reasons unknown there is no inst eco in the overhead console, only avg. and since its been under 30 most mornings my economy hasn't been great. i do have some oil pan heaters ordered. i figure one for the engine and one for the transmission. would definitely help with my imagining no oil in the bearings and lifters when its cold...

The operating principle for transverse-engined FWD applications like the Prius and for longitudinal-engined RWD ones such as the Lexus LS600h is roughly the same, and there are also the Hino 300 Hybrid trucks which also have a real gearbox (IIRC it's a clutchless 6-speed AMT) along the HSD setup.


Indeed. BTW would you eventually consider something like the BAS-Hybrid setup to provide some mild level of regenerative braking and electric drive assist?

Good enough for me.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...ng-buggies.jpg

The other one opens like a 1940s Buick or 1950s International Harvester hood. The hinge/latch parts from a Buick hood would hold a light-weight aerocap and the whole thing would lift off.

Else you could do the front half and use a Dodge Magnum hatch at the back.

Is it possible to leave the outer wheels of the duals at home, that would be a savings of about 160lbs roughly of rotating weight

My trailer weighs about a ton empty.
It's 26 feet long tandem axle, deck is 18ft long 8' 3'' wide deck and should carry 8,000lb for a total weight of about 10,000lb.
8,000lb empty to get 10,000lb of capacity sound a little extreme.

OilPan
Sounds like the confusion is a flat deck equipment trailer vs a camper used as a residence. My 33'x96" 5er was 10,000lbs empty and 16,000(almost 500lbs /foot loaded) going down the road with a family of 3's possessions for 23,000 gross . A 26'x250lbs /foot=6500lbs. Add some for the wide body version. For comparison a U-Haul Auto transport (car trailers) was 1950lbs for the old orange and 2200lbs for the newer 4" wider galvanized (info is dated circa 2000)with a 350lbs tongue weight for both. Was a real pain in the a $$ to take off/put on when the jack was damaged. As for deck length they could bearly hold a 130" wheel base, full size extended cab long bed was to long to fit.

Sparkeys mall or is it Sparkey small
I like the idea of a side opening(gull wing )Aero Tonto cover. The only problem I have with it is running with a load taller than the Tonto with it hinged at the top of the cab I can put a full 1ton pallet of wood pellets in without having to remove the Tonto.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...5&d=1486682522
For some reason the sight uploaded the pic upside-down[edit fixed].
Part of the design consept was to use the cover as a wing to divert air around the nose of a trailer. By blocking the cap in an open position.


I would advise agenst EOC (engine off costing) unless your transmission is rated for flat towing with the trans in neutral (not the t-case) . Reason: no lubricant engine off = front pump off. This practice is fine with a manual transmission.

Grill block looks like a good prototype. If more heat can be handled block the 2 holes in the bumper. They are for extra cooling something that was introduced on the 2nd gen Cummins. A good tell if you can handle more blockage would be the %of lockup on the electrical fan cluch. A quick Google showed the macanical bi-metal on/off and the electrical variable lock up for 99 v10, so you'll have to check it out. If the fan is not engaging it can handle more... if it is thean back off a few sq" at a time to get it to not engage.

Congratulations on the inside work.nice in winter but can be hell in summer.

I thought about taking off the inner duals. If i removed the outer i would have a massive gap between the body and tire. Alot of dead air space. Only problem i can see with leaving the outer dual is load on the bearings. Its a beefy axle, but still not a straight load on the axle.

I am going to build rear skirts and cover the wheels. Im thinking about using lexan/plexiglass. So it doesnt look like an old buick goin by.

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My thoughts for gull wing where to have it open at each side. Perhaps split down the middle or each third. Also having the ability to open like gumby79's would be good for loading/unloading.

I had the idea of also making it able to tilt up to divert the wind hitting the camper. And fold down sides to make it into a full camper shell when needed.

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Its just sparkeysmall. Some name ive gone by since halo 1 came out.
Edit: after rereading the question its sparkey-small.

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I picked up some of the synthetic oil today. I cleaned em out of 75w90. Got engine oil And was too tired to look for tranmsission and t-case oil. So far its been a $216 hit.

Will change asap.


Also i have the oil heaters on the way. Should be here in a few days.

Does this truck offset operating/ownership expense by generating income directly or indirectly. Appears a yes, to both. IRS deductible work related miles. That alone pays fuel penalty. Obviates changes not related to reliability and longevity. Chasing rainbows by major changes. Not cost or time effective.

OP, you do need a weight distribution hitch. Mandatory. Trailer tongue weight does not equate to weight of cargo in bed. It's simply a static measurement. Hitch needs to return most or all of steer axle weight to same value as when unhiched.

The rdefayette bed cover is still a best option. Same for highest quality tires and shocks. Michelin and Bilstein. Eliminate steering slop (new column shaft and outwards to wheels all new). Focus on electrical. All new grounds, etc. All new wiring a better course of action than the rest of what is suggested. Days out of service is a direct contributor to loss of income.

The longer this truck lasts is the moneymaker. Not otherwise.

As to losing truck and getting car: A Dodge Charger/V6 is fully capable of handling a 5000-lb equipment trailer. More than can be carried by truck. Solo, 27-mpg without trying. Etc.

Agreed 100% WD hitch . I hate seeing some one going down the road spotting aircraft . My life is in your hands. Play nice by the book.. Some people try to compensate by making tail heavy trailer = tail wags the dog, some just drive at 45mph to compensate for the tail wagging the dog, others wreck No good. The smart ones use weight distribution and proper trailer loading.
Vary glad to hear that sparkeysmall is a user.
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Wile you have the welder back home weigh the truck then get a weight with the welder. Front axel ,rear axle , and combind.
Do the same with the trailer. truck front , reaf ,jack, front , rear. I have gone as far as comparing left to right as well.

I would say empty... as loading close to 1ton in the bed can unload the front quite a bit. Especially if the welder is set back against the gate as many ranchers in my region do for easy access.

Yes. My plan is to move as much weight as i can towards the front as possible. Im a bit of a suspension nut and like balance and ride comfort as much as handling. With the current lay out the welder and tanks sits right on the rear axle. And all the cable and work table are by the tailgate. I want to get reels for the cables. To sit as close to the transverse mounted welder as possible. Oxy tank at an angle behind the welder/under the cable reels. And acet tank somewhere around there that seems fit.

Im all about even distribution. The ride when the welder was in is rather wallowey around back. Not quite like a porsche. But still not even.

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Im not against putting the weld equiptment in a trailer and using a car. But, from the math i can do. That may be more expensive to find a decent charger and get a trailer. And i wouldnt be able to move the camper at a whim. Ive seen enough issues dealing with movers to not even bother. You want something done right do it yourself. Im the type that never goes to a mechanic. I aint payin $100hr for some bleh to tell me my vehicle is garbage and needs everything replaced.

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Anyway.

I folded in my sideview mirrors today. You dont realize how awesome they are untill your turning your head every 5 seconds. I was thinking i could get some of those bubble stick on mirrors to attach to the side of the mirror so i could still see behind. But they dont fold in enough to be able to.

Perhaps some convex mirrors set inside will do the trick.

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I was sitting here thinking last night about getting some anti stiction oil and putting a dose of that everywhere i can find. Ive heard of it used in motorcycle forks and works a charm.

I looked it up and found that yes, they do make such oil for diesel engines to free up injectors. But its $25 a quart. But aparently a few ounces can do wonders for smoothing out cylinder walls and lifter bores. If i could slip some of that in the transmission/tcase and differental and see some improvements it might be worth it. I guess its worth a try for science's sake. Maybe even the powersteering system as well. Surely it wont harm any of the seals in other bits as its fluid designed for use in engine oil.

Ill put a tally of $'s spent vs $'s saved against my baseline of 10 mpg in my signiture. Of course its more about driver training rather than mechanical modifications. So far on this tank ive been averaging almost 11. Perhaps the grill block is helping some. Maybe a half mile right now. Then again i wont know for sure until i fill up again and do some calculator math.

Oh. And im allready way ahead of ya. Got bilstiens picked out allready. Once i put bilstiens on my jeep a few years ago i was amazed by the ride improvement over the oem style shocks.

And ill get new tires when these are throwing wires on the fenders. (Im not that bad, but you get the point.)

ok, the oil pan heater is installed. the transmission pan is ribbed and its not sticking... so...

anyway. i did a 200 mile trip this weekend. averaged around 12 mpg. massive headwind halfway. but spent most of my time a reasonable difference behind a big rig doing 60.

and i changed the engine oil. full synthetic and some stiction eliminator. says that will have full effect after 4000 miles or so... havent done the transmission or axles yet.

As fun as it is to fool with mileage mods, this is your work truck and I agree with slowmover on this one. You build your work truck for very different reasons you build a commuter. Reliability is coupled with usability as your main performance objectives as that makes you money. Your truck should pay for itself.

Oil_Pan4's thread on trailer use is also a goldmine of having the best of both worlds.

I have the luxury of having 3 Cummins powered trucks to haul my equipment trailers and deliver machinery. But, I also have a 2005 Dodge Magnum R/T with the factory tow option and a hidden bumper hitch. I often do field repairs and I'll hook up the box trailer to the Magnum to carry the generator and the Esab welder. After performing the work, I'll drop the trailer and cruise around seeing the sights with the little wife comfy in her heated leather seat listening to ABBA on the Bose sound system while The Magnum pulls down 26 mpg at 62 mph.

If you want a Honda Civic to play with my neighbor is selling his for less than a grand. California rust free too.

A lot of people are suggesting to use an ecobox/trailer combination, not realizing that they are suggesting to tow triples..... yes a Leaf can tow 1ton of hay,however, it is rated at 0lbs towing. This means you drove it and excepted all liability for any incident including non-fault for using the tool in an unsafe manner.
Sparkeysmall must move with the flow of work hear today there tomorrow. This means no spending a day going home to get the right tool for the job,a truck. Adding a car trailer and a welder trailer to the back of the 30' TT and truck + insurance on the traveling circus Caravan ,I assume permit load (over length),. Any fule savings will be consumed by the higher operating cost.
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Payload2,320 tare weight 6,568 tow rating 9,300
From:
2001 RAM Pickup Payload and Towing Charts
They left out , tongue weight counts tords the payload. Assumeing a standard tongue weight of 10% ~ 8000 =800 +1500 (welder) =~2300lbs leaving ~20lbs for tools and other gear on the truck. This is a commercial operation, willingly exceeding the posted weight limits is opening the doorf or major law suit.
"Give me absolute safty or give me death", Redpoint5
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Add advertising graphics to your modds and now the ROI is tax time /0miles
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Have you geven any thoughts to airdams and side skirts?

"Here today, gone tomorrow" very correct. My home is a trailer. I move where the work is. I know im not going to be at this job for ever. Its how the life i chose works. And i would mich rather tow my home to the next job than to stay in a hotel and drive upteen thousand miles back to "home", then another upteen thousand miles to the next job. If you want to think about it. This uses less fuel in the long run.

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The payload for this truck that i can find is around 4,900lbs. Towing capacity 11,000 lbs. so stop getting a fit over weight ratings and safety.

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And yes. I cannot tow a welder and camper with a geo metro. Yes i wouldnt mind a charger... Not at all. But i cant move everything at a moments notice with a car/trailer setup.

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And i measured the welder yesterday. It may fit sideways. I would have to cut a hole in the bed liner to make room for the brushes that stick out the front.

I also use a trailer as home. I use a one ton Dodge. Both seen in my signature. If I somehow lost the use of the Dodge I'd likely use a V8 Charger.

As to what's "safe" in towing, it isn't the manufacturer ratings. Those are designed to get one into a pickup. Decidedly less safe than a car, by every measure.

A better trailer is another approach to using less fuel. An Airstrean style trailer (Silver Streak, Avion or Streamline) has aerodynamic properties such that a half ton or big car can do the job. One of these isn't old at ten years and 30-years can be found where just a re-hab of new appliances and some general work pertain. Click on the link to see the one I sold (since replaced).

Keep this in mind as time goes on. A dedicated rig needs both vehicles to cut transportation costs. I had a hair under $30k into both vehicles when purchased ten years ago. Have a goal of better vehicles.

25-mpg highway solo for the one ton, and 15-mpg towing the 35' trailer. Just inside the experience of quite a few others.

Reliability and longevity will pay on that 488. Re-wire the truck front to back, and rebuild steering and suspension. Age, alone, calls for it.

ive personally seen smaller trucks carrying heavier loads... and if manufacturer ratings don't mean nothing other than sales figures, why do they have a legal twist to 'em? and by these figures, I'm under weight. it tows flat and steady with everything loaded up. and i don't go past 65mph.

and so far I got you beat at $15,000 for this setup. i could've gone cheaper but i do have standards.

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anyway. to get on topic. i got the day off so I'm going to do some more work. first i have to find a place to do it. the rv park doesnt allow maintenance work.... anyway i want to drop the suspension. from what i have read, one can take the stock lift blocks out of the back and then put them above the axle so as to reuse the U-bolts. the front however would require cutting the coils. some say 2/3 but still have 3/8" more up front and some 1 full coil and end up even. with the 1 coil cut it only has about 1.5" till it touches the bumpstop... i do have my old zj with h&r springs sitting where theres maybe an inch to the front bumpstops and it definitely could use some more travel, any lower and the steering rods would slam against the oil pan... anyway looking at the trucks front end theres plenty of room for everything to fit. both are similar designs.

anyway. i can have the springs out and cut and back driving again in a few hours. assuming nothings rotted together. I've had the jeep apart so many times I've swapped out all my springs numerous times a year within 2 hours each time. its so easy.

and to those arguing cutting coils is a bad idea... its really the only option i got. i can't seem to find "lowering" springs for the front easily. at least not for the 4x4's. and i have done some air suspension searches and got no farther than rear helpers or 2wd front.

i could get individual bags for $100ish each, and make my own custom setup. from what i can gather a fully home put-together air suspension could be anywhere from $500 to... well as much as you want but i really wouldnt mind having the ability to air up and down for varying loads and highways... i also have a fear that over time the air will escape, or lines/seals deteriorate and I'm slammed down like an old lincoln. i don't want that frame grinding look just a nice ride and ride height adjustment. so... a small pump and tank with manual valves... looks to be around $750 for all around. i would count about half that as an eco mod as i mainly want to do that for comfort rather than economy, but it does have its eco abilities.

anyway. I've been averaging 12 so far on this tank. 160 miles in and down just a tick from a quarter to full :D . from the pump calculations the on board computer is pretty close to being accurate for the average.

so... if i can't find somewhere to hack on my springs ill probably go scouting around for materials to make the aeroshell. I'm thinking about making a simple one for now. maybe conduit and film or plastic sheets. i won't have time to modify the welder arrangement until early march. which is fine as i should have this job till at least may. then its go time for some field work.

Nothing wrong with cutting part of a coil to get fitment right.
Problem is when people cut more than a coil or take a torch to the coils.

Compare the 'ratings' of a identical make and model in different international markets. That will disambiguate the situation.

What do you think of the logic in this article?

Worst car modifications: Suspension Clamps - Diseno-art

There are 3 things they do overseas that you don't see in the US when it comes to trailering.
1 they use trailer brakes even on smaller trailers towed by cars.
2 they actually slow down to an appropriate speed when towing.
3 it appears that in most euro countries they have to have additional licensing, training, inspections, so on and so forth before they can tow a trailer.

In America our tow rating are for the below average consumer, not using trailer brakes, using the posted speed limit as a minimum recommendation.

So it's not surprising that they have higher tow ratings.

If I remember right, do you tow a fifth wheel trailer or a bumper pull trailer, either way, you could make an aeroshell that could tilt up and become the aero front end for the trailer to keep the air flowing smoothly.