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Ecomodding to the Extreme - A Build Log
EDIT: Unfortunately, I have decided to pursue a different route in my quest for MPGs. I purchased a 2001 Volkswagen Passat and will be selling the Golf to a friend since the transmission is messed up. He wanted something he didn't have to worry about ruining and I wanted a Turbo. We are both happy now... This thread is not going to be continued unless he goes ahead with any MPG mods.
I have a 97 Volkswagen Golf GL that I have lightly 'edo'modded. The 3rd and 4th gear synchronizers are now semi-shot. I love this car and want to take it to the next 'eco' level. As is the car would sell for about $650 with the transmission issue. So there really isn't a point in selling it. Now, as an American, I have been taught to want more, more, more....So, I'm going to be real greedy and hoard all the MPGs in the pursuit of 200% EPA. EPA for my car is 21/29 MPG (US gallons). I'm at 44-45 MPG(Got 50.0 MPG on a 75 mile highway trip today - February 5th) currently with the following mods:
The car is completely stock besides the cold air intake the previous owner installed as well as the wheels I put on. The modifications I have in mind to reach 200%:
I think 200% percent is doable if I were to remove ~550 pounds from the car and follow up with the list above. This thread will be the build log for the car and I will document my progress and the results! This may take a long time to complete but I am starting now! |
Reserved
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Reservved
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looking forward towards your progress!
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Extreme!
Extreme! Now yer talkin. :D
Put ContiEcoContact EP 145/65R14's on it at 42-45 psi Ditch the spare, front passenger seat, everything you don't need, like panels. Get a 1.5-inch hole saw and get creative. Pull the rear doors. Pop rivet on aluminum sheet. Brace with spruce. Keep the engine if compression is about the same across the cylinders. Use synthetic Mobil 1 (0-5w) Install a knock warning gizmo V-KNOCK and fabricate a manual carb leaning adjustment with vernier knob on the dash. Pull the battery and replace with LiPO FAQ about replacing lead acid with lithium battery Keep the tranny. Replace fluid with spec synthetic, then replace again at 250 miles. Lower it. Eibach Springs, Eibach Sportline Springs, Eibach Coil Springs Fabricate air dam, side fences and rear wheel covers. Install Ultragauge UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center Later: Pull rear hatch, fabricate boat tail. Daytime driver? Pull alternator, charge bat every evening.:D |
If you live up north do not replace the lead acid with LiFePO4 unless you are prepaired to relocate it inside the vehicle and remove it every night that the temperature will get at or near 20'F.
Why would you delete the heater? That seems like you are asking for a fogged up wind shield that will cause you to crash into something. |
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Anyhow, I am currently running 195/65/15's all around. I have 15" aftermarket aluminum wheels and 14 inch steel wheels. I wouldn't be opposed to even running 13's from the junkyard. I was running tires that are roughly 6% larger than stock and it translated into higher MPG for my driving style so I am hesitant to go smaller. Unfortunately, there really aren't any narrow tires that are the same overall diameter. Not sure what to do :/ Need to figure it out though as my tires only have a day or two left before I take them out back and salute them. Tires will be the next mod to my vehicle aside from the alignment that will go along with them. |
200%
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*City ? *HWY ? *Combined ? |
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Update February 6th - Tires were so bald it was dangerous, put steel wheels with 195/60/14 tires back on the front. Still running 195/60/15 aftermarket rims on the back. MPG in first gear has almost doubled when accelerating from stop. I would get about 4.9 MPG for the quick burst straight into fifth gear at 22 miles per hour. Now it is about 9.5 MPG for the same acceleration sprint to fifth gear. During the wheel swap, I noticed both of my front shocks/struts/whatever are loose and have half an inch of play when not loaded with weight. I believe this is the reason the car is making a popping sound and the suspension shifts when making tight turns at full lock. Of course they won't tighten because I need a special tool to hold the strut while I turn the nut. This being loose is probably causing the abnormal wear on the tires. Sometimes it looks like I have camber and other times it doesn't. Time to fix it! |
If you are getting a popping sound during a sharp turn then you likely have a torn CV boot and the CV joint is full of water, dirt and other junk that should not be in there with those bearings.
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