help me design my ajustable grill block
 

my idea of sliding panel with bike cables have fail because it is very hard to slide when screw on my bumper
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-ec...1-img-0137.jpg

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-ec...0-img-0136.jpg

it need to be done with things avaliable at home depot, and other stores like that. and I can use my 2 cable bike that are very long, and screw and tape every were I want on my bumper, and I have infinite cloroplast:D

this is what I am working with:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-ec...img-0143-1.jpg

Where did you get that long bike cable? How long is it? Is it for gears or brakes?

I was planning the same type of "slider" block in the lower grille of the Insight. One thing I had decided was to make sure the "track" is straight. If it bends/curves at all, you will get friction against the sliding part. That means I have to mount a "flat" assembly in a "curved" grille space.

I was considering using 1/2 inch aluminum angle to make the frame/track. You can get that at Home Depot.

i combine 2 bike gear cable from canadien tire with a 1/32 metal cable from home depot

As someone who used to design systems for extreme winter conditions, I've never liked "sliding" things, preferring simple pivots whenever possible. They're much more robust and less susceptible to ice, mud, misalignments, etc.

No bike cables
 

I agrre with Frank about the coax "choke" cables. Given a little time they get harder and harder to work.

Take a look at this fascinating article about power transmission systems that often pumped oil wells as much as a MILE away from the steam engine that powered them.

http://www.lowtechmagazine.com/2013/...e-systems.html

I just learned that I'm not allowed to post the link because I haven't been real active here lately. It's in "lowtech magazine" under "the-mechanical-transmission-of-power-jerker-line-systems"

We probably could use some of the same concepts to operate the sliding openings in a grill block.

Frank: you've got a point there. How would you do it?

I've thought about the slider: it can have thinner packaging than a door or shutter approach. Probably easier to make, too. And when open, it's out of the way.

Worst case scenario, you get out of the car and push the slider open.

Wobblybob: you'll be able to post links after 5 posts.

I'd look at the door or shutter approach. Usually there is room for it.

I was referring to the block itself, not the cable. When cables act up it's usually due to lack of lube, or a kink, both of which are easily rectified.

Yeah Frank, I realized that after posting my comment. (It' s still a fascinating, if irrelevant, article about the jerker systems.) Sorry about that.

Instead of slides, the grill block on my car rotates a vented section of 4" PVC pipe to expose or block the radiator opening. Advantage of this method is 2" of actuator cable travel can manipulate a large amount of radiator opening (in mine, one actuator controls 2 linked 2" x 11" blocked openings).

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1345062885
My grille has a sliding block, though it only slides ~10mm because of the power lock motor I used. If you use a cable, then the openings can be wider, allowing freer airflow and/or partial opening.

The only problem I have with it is when I park during a snowstorm and the snow melts on the warm hood, then freezes while dripping down the grille. Ice forms on the outside and in between the sliding elements, blocking them. Of course, this happens only when it is cold, and then I don't need to open the grille often (plus the radiator's heat might melt the ice if it gets hot).

Piwoaw,
Nice!

Basjoos,
Can you post a link to a photo of your block, or a drawing? I can almost "see" it but not quite. Thanks!

The openings collect air from below the stagnation point on the front of the car.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...cture1a376.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...cture1a375.jpg