How To Build a Cheap Traction Circuit
 

This thread is for williamson...

Dear Ecomodders: This thread is to help you with your controller. You may ask any questions about wiring your car. The first thing I found, to save money, is that the following parts MAY be found for sale cheap on ebay: the current shunt, the fuse, and the contactor. If they aren't there now, keep trying over a few months, since it may take you a year to build. I bought these parts new, at a fraction of their usual cost. Part #'s in next post.

The fuse is Ferraz-Shawmut # A15QS 800 4. This is the cheapest type. You may want other than 800 amps. Pauls controller is limited to 775 amps. I think it would be embarrassing to blow a fuse. I've seen 600 amps recommended. I would buy one spare. They sell a holder. I found that I could hook 3 items together by bolting one to the next. This actually saves money, work, and power loss. The 3 items are the shunt, fuse and contactor. The fuse goes in the middle, on one terminal of the contactor, and shunt. Current shunts are universally interchangeable. They are standardized at 50 mv output. So you can buy the shunt for the current rating or your guage. I have 600 amps. You are more interested in the current in the range of 100 amps, than between 600 and 1000. That is, if you want to maximize your miles.

The second item you might get cheap on ebay is the contactor. There are expensive contactors, not by Tyco. The cheaper Tyco is LEV200 A4ANA. $79 at KTA services. The more expensive is EV200AAANA, $129. The differance is that the second has built in circuit that reduces the coil drain to .13 Amp, once the contactor closes. Also, a larger input voltage range. 9-36 volts. I don't think that part means anything to us who have a 12 volt battery on board. I got the better one for about $70.

The remaining parts are sold by many companies. The best prices I found were from Revolt-ev.com. Nice people. You can compare:2/0 cable: $2.84/ft, Orange colored traction circuit is now being standardized. heatshrink tubing, 3/4 in.,4 ft. probably the right amount for one car. $2.53/ft. Anderson SBX-350 connectors. These are hermaphroditic.(the same at both ends) If you have batteries in front and back, you need 4, If you have one pack, you need 2. $10.18 ea. Heavy Duty copper lugs: Warp-9 motor, Rev NA, needs 4 at 1/2 inch hole. ($1.89 ea)Rev N reqs 3/8 inch hole. ($1.77 ea)Check your battery terminal dia. Boots for teminals: red, $.76 Forget the idea of "black" for the "Minus" circuit. Both wires are equally DEADLY!!

you may install an electric heater core, if you don't have hot antifreeze. I only found one source: KTA services. The "problem" with this core is that the air way is 4 inches square. Your A/C might have an airway of 7 inches square. slightly restrictive of air flow. BUT, the only game in town. I asked them to find a larger one. I bought one. Nice people. $80.00 plus shipping.

You need a crimper for the lugs. More on this soon

Anderson makes a quick disconnect handle, meant to pull apart the Anderson connector, from the handle mounted next to the driver, in an emergency. This is an absolute requirement, but I'm going to use the e-brake release handle from a Lincoln Town-car, that matches the e-brake handle on my e-brake, except I'll paint it bright RED! The cable goes into the batterty compartment. TRACTION POWER IS NEVER NEVER NEVER run into the passenger compartment

I bought one of these on ebay last year and can't fault it:
4mm- 70mm HYDRAULIC CABLE CRIMPING TOOL (CRIMPER) on eBay (end time 29-Oct-10 18:20:37 BST)

Useful thread. Thanks.