How To Line Up Template - Sports Car Design
 

Just playing with one of my original car designs (for fun).

I'm using the green template BamZipPow posted here:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-c-9287-9.html

1. Is it alright that the green does not quite touch the ground plane?

2. Which overlay is lined up correctly, any of them?

Industrial Design pictures by kach22i - Photobucket
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...FFR-green1.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...FR1-green2.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...FR1-green3.jpg

The first one is the closest...ideally the bottom of the template should be at the bottom of the wheels... ;)

Thanks, I thought that was the closest.

Always line up with the "high point" of roof?

The first mark with the zero degrees, that is the center of the roof, or does it have to cut through the driver's head?

If your whole roof conforms to the template, then where is the center? Doesn't it shift back a couple of feet on my example?

First mark should be at the highest peak of the roof. ;)

Simple, I love simple.

Thank you once again.

Nice. Where do you buy your clay? I've been using plaster lately but it's time consuming and dusty.

I have never used the wax-like red-ish clay the professionals use. This is what you need to use to get crisp contour lines. As I understand it gets firm enough to make a mold off of to make a fiberglass model. Otherwise you can skin it with a film called 3M Di-Noc or use a black garbage bag and make it shine with some cooking oil.

Some info here:
Custom Body - Methods and Means - Software, Programs and Techniques

And Here:
Project Question and Answer with Rhode Island School of Design's Michael Lye - Page 3

I've tried about five different clays, purchased near me at Michigan Book & Supply. Some stay soft and collect lots of dust. Some get hard and have a rather lumpy surface. One clay got very firm with a nice finish, stayed dust free and was real smooth to work with. However it was very old school, toxic and gave me killer migraine headaches. Oil based, clay/water based, acrylic based, I've tried quite a few. Nothing that I'm happy with though.

I will be picking up some of that industrial clay from Chavant, it's what I should have been using all along. Who knew?

http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x...cpZZ4QQtppZZ20
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...AR-flipped.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...eenprofile.jpg

Gotta get me some wheels next time, enough of the rough studies, I want something professional looking next time.

For reference
Automobile drag coefficient - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For a template comparable, the new 991
Automobile pictures by kach22i - Photobucket
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ay-kach22i.jpg

simple
 

Simplicity was the whole point.

Just a thought about your wheels. I'm doing more or less the same thing: a 30% scale model for a "roof rack wind tunnel".

Automotive body engineering - Roof Rack "Wind Tunnel": A Naive Idea?

McMaster-Carr sells fairly cheap 8" polypropylene wheels with bearings, if you want (#2781T48), so you could do rotating wheel simulation. That's what I'm planning to do. 8" @ 30% scales pretty nicely.
I hope to pay a lot of attention to the wheel-groundplane intersection, particularly with those nasty trailng vortices.