How long will it take me to replace my heater core (2000 Civic)?
 

I did not worry about my heater core back in Phoenix, but I am not sure that we have seen 90° here in Show Low yet. It was in the sixties for the Fourth of July fireworks.

Also, what heater core should I use? Honda discontinued it, but someone is selling it on Amazon for $290. AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Napa, RockAuto, and Amazon all have the same Spectra Premium. Amazon has the best price, $62 shipped. Is there any reason I should consider one from a junkyard? There are a couple in Phoenix for $45.

Here are instructions that I found on-line. I promised myself that I would not spend forever writing up the directions for the head gasket and would just get started, but even with supposedly complete instructions, I needed to stop and look up how to do something about twenty times.

1. Disconnect the battery cable from the negative side. Wait a full 5 minutes for the car's PRS Air Bag System to discharge. (The manufacturer's recommendation is to wait 3 minutes; waiting 5 minutes will ensure the system is completely discharged.)
   Disconnect the air conditioner system by disconnecting the suction line and the receiver line from the compressor; unscrew the retainer nuts that hold them in place using a pair of pliers.
2. Drain the coolant from the radiator by opening the drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. Use an approved drain pan to collect the coolant and dispose of it in a method compliant with the laws of your community. Remember this substance is poisonous.
3. Open the cable clamp located under the hood and disconnect the heater control cable. Turn the control valve of the core to the fully open position by hand.
4. Disconnect the heater hoses from the core housing; squeeze open the hose clamps using a pair of vise grips and remove the mounting wing nut from the heater unit by turning it with your hand until it comes free.
5. Remove the center console from the interior of the vehicle using the screwdriver. Remove the gear shift knob and disconnect the heat switch connectors (which should just pull out of the switches); front power accessory port and rear power accessory port (which should just pull out of the socket connectors); and illumination power cables (which should simply un-clamp by hand with squeeze connectors).
6. Remove the lower dashboard panels, driver glove box and center storage pocket using the screwdriver.
7. Carefully remove the airbag assembly from the steering wheel and the passenger side. The airbags are held in place with spring clamps, which will pop open with mild pressure. Be careful to not apply too much pressure--even a discharged airbag may still deploy if too much shock is applied.
8. Separate the steering column assembly from the dashboard unit by moving the column to the fully up position. Use a piece of heavy tape to secure the shaft sliding cover onto the steering column while it is removed.
9. Remove the hoses by opening the spring hose clamps using the vise grips. Remove all remaining wires. Remove the harnesses and retainer bolts using the Phillips screwdriver. Remove the connectors, air bag control computer and center lower covers by squeezing open the hand squeeze clamps. (This may require the assistance of another person.)
10. Lift the dashboard out slowly and remove it from the vehicle by sliding it out of one of the doors.
11. Unplug the connectors from the air mix control motor unit, temp sensor, recirculation control motor, heater ducts, power transistor and blower fan unit.
12. Loosen the heater core cover with the screwdriver and pull the heater core out of the housing unit.
13. Install the new heater core by inserting it into the housing, then securing it in place with the housing cover using the screwdriver.
14. Reconnect and reinstall everything you removed in reverse order.
15. Close the drain valve on the radiator and refill it with fresh coolant. HINT: This would be a great time to perform cooling system maintenance; pick up a flush and fill kit and clean out the engine's cooling system before refilling. You also might want to use a cooling system treatment when you refill, especially if you have an older car.
    
    Test the heating system with normal operation and inspect the whole system for leaks.

https://itstillruns.com/how-to-repla...-12148236.html

Do not get ome from a junk yard. Get a new one, not the $290 one, it's Not worth it.
Just unhook the battery and start working on draining the cooling system at the front of the car.

I never refilled the coolant after replacing the head gasket, so I am one step ahead! :D

After major stuff like that I refill with water only.
It's cheaper if it leaks.

I haven’t taken a look at the heater box in mine. Hondas have a reputation for being easy to work on (which I can largely verify), but something tells me packaging will be an issue. IIRC doing this in a couple classic Mustangs, it was about a four-hour job, but granted, there was hella easy access. I’d at least double it in your Civic.

I definitely would avoid junkyard heater cores - they will probably have worse problems than whatever yours has. Having worked at Autozone, though, I’d be dishonest if I said Spectra made great products. They were fairly high-return items for us, both the radiators and the heater cores.

I wish I knew where to source something better. Maybe the Honda aftermarket scene has something? Or you could pursue it the way I pursued my oxygen sensor, see if an OE supplier still makes it by a different name/part number. My NTK (NTK is NGK’s OE supplier division) oxygen sensor IS, for all intents and purposes, a dealer O2 sensor, since they were the OE supplier for those to begin with. But! for something like 1/3 of the price. Took a couple of days to chase down the OE supplier and part number, but I think it was worth it.

How did you track down the actual manufacturer? Google does not show many results for the part number and everything just says Honda. Napa, AutoZone, and O'Reilly's only show the Spectra core. RockAuto has:

UAC $38.79
OSC $51.99
APDI/PRO $52.79
Spectra Premium $54.99

[plus shipping]

Curiously, when I tried to research Honda heater cores, I found a thread about replacing them in classic Mustangs--nothing said Mustang until I read a bit.

The consensus was that replacing heater cores is easy without air conditioning, but AC makes it terrible.

All I know is that you'd rather talk about it and watch Shouty videos than actually do it, so I voted a few weeks. I'm the same way about things which I think might be frustrating.

This project seems more time-consuming than stressful. I could have damaged my engine replacing the timing belt, head gasket, or some other repairs I have done.

I am mostly concerned with breaking plastic bits, but since you mentioned Shouty, this is how he says to fix that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hk1cojemglEHow much of that should I order ahead of time? :)

I am unsure where else to look. I have checked Advance Auto Parts, Amazon, AutoZone, Car ID, Car ID eBay, JC Whitney, Napa, O'Reilly's, Parts Geek, RockAuto, Summit Racing, and Walmart. I found heater cores from the following brands:

Spectra Premium
Best price: $45.80 from Car ID on eBay.
UAC $43.82 from Amazon
APDI/Pro $63.78 from RockAuto
OSC $63.78 from RockAuto
GPD $59.38 from Parts Geek
Metrix $79.53 from Parts Geek

It seems that brick and mortar stores offer lifetime warranties while on-line stores discount 50 - 60%, but there is only a one-year warranty.

I never want to do this again, so I am trying to figure out who makes the best one. Still, would I rather have a limited lifetime warranty from Napa for $108 or the same one from Car ID for $45.80?

You're driving a 20 year old car. The last heater core went 20 years, right? Why do you care about the warranty?

It's like when I go to the auto parts store looking for brake pads, and I tell them I want a quote for their cheapest pads. When they quote me, I ask if that's really their cheapest, and then they pull up the PN that is half the cost, but then warn me that it only has a 1 year warranty vs 3. Who cares, it's brake pads. Not only that, but it's the identical brake pads as the ones that cost twice as much.

... and as I always say to people trying to sell me extended warranties, they are either selling me crap, in which case, why are you selling me crap, or they just want free money.

...is it too late for me to change my answer to 6-12 months?

Car ownership versus ride share calculator
 

I do not know how much the OEM heater core was used in Arizona, but it went out at least two years ago.

If I am so worried about replacing the heater core again, I could always delete the air conditioning. :)

I am positive that someone has compared different brake pads, but when I searched I only found general information about the types like this: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/...-for/index.htm

I wish that I could buy five sets off RockAuto, five sets (of the same brand) of rotors, take a day to test them, and see if anyone cares, but did I win Publisher's Clearinghouse?

No!

[I had so many plans!]

I wish that I could buy five heater cores, examine then, and then what? Pressure test them?

By the way, I keep seeing Dave Ramsey fans telling people to use Uber or Lyft. The default settings in this calculator say I would spend over a quarter million dollars over ten years using Uber or Lyft: Ride or Drive. Somehow it estimates that I will save 40% by owning my own car. It asks about my loan, but has a checkbox for "I own my car outright."

Even though I told it I bought my $1,550 vehicle outright, it still showed me having a 2019 car worth $30,000 and a loan. When I fixed that it reset my 38 MPG to 25. It estimates $1,000 per year for repairs, but I average less than half that. It estimates $600 for insurance and that would probably be accurate if I only had one car.

I do not know where it got its gas prices, it says $2.30, but here it is $2.75, which is also the national average. $500 a year for parking? I doubt that I have paid $500 in my life. Property tax on garage?

You mean the gravel next to the driveway?

It says $72.75 yearly for registration and taxes. I renewed my Civic for five years for $65.50.

I was being optimistic.

"Other garage expenses."

Name one.

It now shows $11,615 yearly to own my own car. By default I spend an hour in my car every day and my time is worth $20.

I would love a self-driving car or a chauffeur, I could write my session notes between clients and still go straight from one to another.

Does anyone include tires in repairs? Costco charges $459.4 for set of 4 Michelin Defenders. They are rated for 80,000 miles, but I doubt that any salesman would look at tires with 60,000 miles and say they are good for another 20,000 miles.

If one tire picks up a nail too close to the sidewall and you need to replace it, which of you would only replace the one, possibly with a used tire?

If you figure that for whatever reason you will replace them in 60,000 miles and you drive 12,000 miles a year, that is $91.88 yearly.

I added that to the repairs. $11,707 a year to own and drive my own car, but aside from the notes, I do not really know what I would do while commuting. Read a book instead of listening to one?

"I can figure out how to block somebody, and anyone help."

Wait, what?

There's differences in different types of brake pads, but there's not differences in the same brake pads with different warranties. Like buying a warranty for bleach. How would it be defective, it's bleach. If it was defective, I'd just get more bleach, though it's highly unlikely to be defective.

I buy ceramic brake pads for vehicles I intend to keep a long time, but for vehicles I don't intend to keep for 10 years, I'll buy the cheap semi-metallic, with no extended warranty.

Heater cores; they're made of aluminum, right? What would a super expensive one have over a cheap one? I suppose it could have thicker aluminum. Weigh them to tell which one has more material? Seems like one of those things that the Chinese would just make an exact copy of the OEM part (which also probably was made in China).

Uber instead of own a vehicle- probably fine for an urbanite that doesn't ever go hiking. How do you Uber a ride up an old logging road? I'd be all about it if I made good use of time and could discipline myself into being productive while being chauffeured to my destination.

I do not see how I could have afforded ride sharing in the Phoenix area, thirteen work trips a week, up to half an hour apart. According to Ride Guru, a 20-mile ride that would take 29 minutes would cost $25 through Uber. Lyft would be $26, something called TotalRide would be $38, and a taxi would be $54. I did not always need to drive half an hour, but I had plenty of forty-five-minute drives, and a few that were sixty minutes, and not because of construction or other delays.

$25 x 13 = $325.

Per week.

Page didn't have either, but it was 1.4 miles. I probably should have ridden my bike.

We have Lyft up here and it would cost $27 for a 21-mile and 28-minute ride. I have averaged 10 hours a week, so it would cost at least $200 a week, and if I ever maintained twenty hours a week, it could be $400 - $500 weekly.

I have been seeing clients for just over a year. I may someday average twenty hours a week, but it is entirely possible that I would not. If I did, that would be much more than I have ever earned, and it would open up some pleasant opportunities.

Or not-so-pleasant. I have not been to grad school, I cannot say, but with a Master's I could get a 10-month SLP salary job up here starting at $50,000, see another five clients in-town, and that would be worth well over an additional $10,000 yearly. If I worked summers at the hospital it would pay $5,000 a month.

All that I want to do is speech therapy, but I look for relevant jobs almost every day. I have only ever seen one opening up here, it would have paid less, and the day after the owner hired someone, she moved out of state.

The business did not survive.

The other day I looked through Craigslist and Indeed for a second job--any job. There were not many jobs that paid better than what I currently earn, and each of them would require another two years of school or training.

Maybe I should pick up some minimum wage job until I figure out how to be worth more, but tonight I went through Indeed again, and I went further back than 30 days.

I found a Speech-Language Pathology Assistant posting from almost three months ago. It does not specify pay or hours, but honestly, that is not especially important. It says part-time, so if I could see students Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and maintain my current schedule, I can survive off my normal pay. I would hate to work for minimum wage, but even $11 an hour, and 10 hours a week would be $300 or so more than I currently earn each month (after taxes and everything).

More importantly, hopefully I could finally apply to Northern Arizona's summers-only program, and hopefully, for the first time in my career, I would have an actively supervising supervisor that could help me be a better therapist.

I redid my résumé and applied. I hope to hear back soon!

Since I could not find any information than this one is sold at the most places, I went ahead and ordered. It should be here around the sixteenth.

Is the core replaced?

I like the gap between a 2 month, and 6 months. How do I select that gap?

I don’t precisely remember how I found the OE supplier. I am almost positive it would have been from a message board. But now that I think about it, I imagine it’s a lot easier to find that kind of info on a maintenance item than on something like a heater core. I’ll poke around a bit.

EDIT: yup, harder than I had thought. I have found out that the radiator is a Denso unit, so I suspect the heater core might be as well. If that’s so, Denso no longer makes it.

Second poll: how long will it take me to start...

No need to start now its not freezing and the passenger foot well is not a swimming pool. :)

The high this week will be 92° here in the mountains. I think I only used the heater when I needed the defroster last winter, but that was probably dozens of times.

I keep having other projects which are allegedly more important. I want to start as soon as I find and install the crankshaft pulley bolt.

I have a serious question Xist, why not just get a second job? Costco starts out at like 13-14 per hour most places, and that sure beats zero. From what I hear of your life it sounds like you made a very poor career choice but don't want to admit it.

You could also get into manufacturing, I started on an assembly line 5 years ago, now I'm a salaried QC specialist, and all I did to climb was show up on time and work hard.

Last I heard, he has a second job. Just like the first, I suspect.

Not a lot of opportunities where he lives for full time gummint employment.

So work in the private market? I don't see what's so hard about that.

These are the parts that I am missing:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1564872761
This is what the nearest dealership to my friend in the valley would charge, before tax. This data has been modified from its original version. It has been formatted to fit on one screen:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1564872766

That's all stuff a true value hardware place has, worst case big box hardware, despot,lowest,orchid,TSA, the like

Never seen a grade 9 nylock nut since you should only use them in shear.

Shane, I am an independent contractor for a therapy agency out of Phoenix. They always say they are not receiving vendor calls and the owner of another agency said there were not any clients waiting for speech therapy. When I look for jobs on Indeed, Craigslist, and other sites the best-paying job that I find in the area is usually teacher.

Well, SLP, but I need a Master's for that.

I would need a teaching certificate to teach.

You know, the district that I attended pays teachers an extra $3,600 for having their master's. Teachers somehow manage to earn their Master's in two years while teaching full-time and allegedly sleeping. I am sure that some of those have families that are periodically needy. If you figure that you could complete a Master's in Education program in two years averaging 20 hours a week, a public graduate school in Arizona would charge about what a teenager would earn working the minimum wage the same number of hours. If that teacher worked a second job just earning the minimum wage and put everything into retirement (you couldn't), the teacher getting $25,000 into debt for a Master's would never catch up, despite the $3,600 raise.

Meanwhile, many districts pay SLPAs around $30,000 and SLPs around $55,000.

AutoZone's guide to replacing the heater core in a 1996 - 2000 Honda Civic
 

It looks like AutoZone took down their repair library and replaced it with five minute crafts, but Google has the cache. For posterity, it is:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1591773829
1996-97 Civic and Del Sol
Removing the heater core may require removal of the dashboard and the air conditioner evaporator. Removal of the air conditioner evaporator requires the A/C system to be discharged. The legal ramifications of discharging A/C systems without the proper EPA certification, experience, and equipment dictate that the A/C components on your vehicle should be serviced only by a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) trained, and EPA certified automotive technician using approved equipment.

If you insist upon servicing the heater core and you are not a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) trained, and EPA certified automotive technician and/or you do have the approved equipment for discharging and recovery of the A/C refrigerant, before disabling your vehicle, take your vehicle to an approved repair facility and have the A/C system discharged prior to beginning the heater core repair procedure.

1. Take your vehicle to an approved repair facility and have the A/C system discharged.
2. Record your vehicles radio anti-theft code.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. From under the hood, locate the heater control valve on the lower passenger's side firewall area just below the fuel filter. Manually turn the heater control valve to the opened position.
5. Make sure the heater valve is in the full hot position by pressing the arm toward the firewall.
6. Allow the engine to cool if the coolant temperature is above 100°F (37°C).
7. Drain the engine coolant from the radiator into a suitable and sealable container.
8. Remove the heater control valve.
9. Place a drain pan below the two heater hoses at the firewall, release the tension on both heater hose clamps and slide the clamps up the heater hose away from the firewall and remove the two hoses.
   https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1591774183
   https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1591774226
10. Drain the coolant from the hoses into the drain pan and then into a suitable and sealable container.
11. Remove the nut attached to the stud protruding through the firewall, just above and to the right of the heater hoses.
    https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1591774270
12. Remove the dashboard assembly.
    On del Sol models, remove the steering hanger beam bolts.
    https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1591774345
    https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1591774382
    https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1591774415
13. Remove the heater duct.
14. Detach the heater unit from the firewall.
15. Remove the self-tapping screws and the bracket.
16. Pull the heater core out of the housing.
    To install:
    
    The installation procedure is in reverse order of disassembly making note of the following points.
17. For the air conditioning system:
    • Replace any removed A/C O-rings and coat them with a light coating of refrigerant oil before installing them.
    • Make sure any replaced O-rings are compatible with R-134a refrigerant.
    • Once the repair procedure is completed, have a certified repair facility add the proper type and amount of refrigerant oil if necessary, charge the A/C system, and test for normal operation and refrigerant leaks.
18. For the heater system:
    • Apply a suitable sealant to the grommets.
    • Make sure the heater inlet and outlet hoses are installed in the correct location.
    • Refill the engine coolant with a 50/50 mixture of approved coolant and water, and bleed as necessary.
    • Once the heater core repair is completed, make sure the heater control valve is properly adjusted by placing the temperature setting to the max cool position. Unclamp the heater valve cable sheathing and move the heater valve arm away from the firewall. The apply a light pull to the cable and cable sheathing to make sure all slack is removed from the cable, and reinstall the cable.

1998-00 Civic
Removing the heater core may require removal of the dashboard and the air conditioner evaporator. Removal of the air conditioner evaporator requires the A/C system to be discharged. The legal ramifications of discharging A/C systems without the proper EPA certification, experience, and equipment dictate that the A/C components on your vehicle should be serviced only by a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) trained, and EPA certified automotive technician using approved equipment.

If you insist upon servicing the heater core and you are not a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) trained, and EPA certified automotive technician and/or you do have the approved equipment for discharging and recovery of the A/C refrigerant, before disabling your vehicle, take your vehicle to an approved repair facility and have the A/C system discharged prior to beginning the heater core repair procedure.

1. Take your vehicle to an approved repair facility and have the A/C system discharged.
2. Record your vehicles radio anti-theft code.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Under the hood, open the cable clamp, disconnect the heater valve cable, and turn the heater valve arm to the fully opened position.
5. Drain the coolant. The engine must be cool.
6. Remove the mounting nut to the heater.
7. Push the hose clamps back.
8. Place a small drip pan under the heater hoses.
9. Remove the nut attached to the stud protruding through the firewall, just above and to the right of the heater hoses.
10. Remove the inlet and then the outlet hoses from the heater unit.
    
    Always keep engine coolant away from painted surfaces. If a spill does occur, rinse it off immediately. Never wipe it with a shop rag, this may further smear it into the surface.
11. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit.
12. Remove the dashboard.
13. Remove the heater duct.
14. Detach the heater unit.
15. Remove the screws and then the bracket that holds the heater core in the air box.
    
    To install:
    
    The installation procedure is in reverse order of disassembly making note of the following points.
16. For the air conditioning system:
    • Replace any removed A/C O-rings and coat them with a light coating of refrigerant oil before installing them.
    • Make sure any replaced O-rings are compatible with R-134a refrigerant.
    • Once the repair procedure is completed, have a certified repair facility add the proper type and amount of refrigerant oil if necessary, charge the A/C system, and test for normal operation and refrigerant leaks.
17. For the heater system:
    • Apply a suitable sealant to the grommets.
    • Make sure the heater inlet and outlet hoses are installed in the correct location.
    • Refill the engine coolant with a 50/50 mixture of approved coolant and water, and bleed as necessary.
    • Once the heater core repair is completed, make sure the heater control valve is properly adjusted by placing the temperature setting to the max cool position. Unclamp the heater valve cable sheathing and move the heater valve arm away from the firewall. The apply a light pull to the cable and cable sheathing to make sure all slack is removed from the cable, and reinstall the cable.

Wonderful. I lost all of my directions and spent my available time preserving AutoZone's. So far the only thing that I have noticed that AutoZone specified that Honda did not was to evacuate the refrigerant first. I have not seen that step in the FSM yet.

It is pretty important!

I think that I finally finished replacing my head gasket the beginning of March. I took apart my dash and removed my heater core the second week, but haven't gotten back to it since. That was right when people realized that coronavirus was serious. I cleared out the shed to make an office and started setting up teletherapy. At least once I tracked down all of my instruction and got interrupted before I could get anywhere.

I never start working on my car without copying all of the steps from the factory service manual, researching on-line, and watching as many videos as I can. I always write out step-by-step directions with diagrams. I cannot find any of that now, so I needed to start over.

From what I have seen of the instructions from It Still Runs, they are vastly oversimplified and generic, although they may be adequate for someone much better with cars than I am.

The FSM only has 9 steps and 4 diagrams, but refers to other sections 5 times. Right now my instructions are 31 pages and 26 diagrams, but I did not set it up in columns like the FSM.

I like trees and stuff. I just shrank the relevant diagrams and set up most pages with two columns.

It is now thirteen pages.

I kind of don't want to know how long that took.

Remove the dashboard (see section 20) ended up being eight pages.

I need to write three sets of notes and upload some documents, but hopefully I iwll have enough time on Friday to put my Civic together.

I tried to spend all day on Friday working on my car, but stuff kept coming up. When I stopped for the evening I had only reinstalled the heater core, condenser, and blower.

I spent all Saturday on it and reinstalled the dash and most of the components, but stuff kept coming up, like while I was getting ready I discovered that someone knocked over my battery and did not pick it up. It sizzled when I emptied a box of baking soda on it.

I should have swept up that, shouldn't I? :)

It was going to be warm and sunny, so I unboxed my brand-new awning. It is also quite windy on top of the mountain, so I tied one leg to the No Parking sign and tied brake rotors to the other two legs that weren't right up against one of my cars. The awning leg transferred paint to my Accord, I moved the Accord away, and the awning managed to creep over.

Each time there was a strong gust of wind I watched the awning to ensure that it stayed put.

Then there are the weird neighbors, like the two girls that laid in the street in front of our house. Then the adorable little one use terrible language as they walked past.

When I removed the side mirror control the back broke into many places. I put it and as many bits as I found in a bag.

I did not think that I would find it cheaply and did not want to risk buying something that did not work, so I did not look into this in March. Many dealerships like Majestic no longer carry the part. The cheapest that I found was $133 shipped from Honda Parts Now. However, I found one in a slightly different color for $40 plus tax on eBay.

I am trying to save what I have.

I told a friend at noon:
I am still finishing #3.

I am forming a company called Critical Salvage Engineering for automotive performance (art). You are hired. Pay is all on commission but everything is free and we have no sales.

Do you have a no-compete clause? I do not know how many companies there are in the world, but virtually all of them do not pay me, so technically millions or billions of companies are competing by not paying me.

I jumped out of bed at 0530 excited to get my Civic running today.

I did not get my Civic running today. In fact, I did not really touch her today.

Employee of the month!

Employee of the month!!

Critical Salvage Engineering is lucky to have you. :)

I didn't even touch my Civic a little today. I still want to fix the mirror control and I do not want to wait a week or two for the part to arrive.

I saw two clients, found the form that I needed to sign, get notarized, upload, and get approved. Office Lady told me to simply proceed to the nearest bank to get a notary stamp, because this is something that I have needed many times over the years, especially in the five years that I have been an SLPA.

Except the nearest bank is Chase and Chase stopped notarizing.

Washington Mutual is completely closed.

The teller told me to go to Desert Title, but there was a long list of people waiting ahead of me and, of course, the business charges for services, so I went to my car and called the friendly neighborhood credit union, which confirmed notarizing, and I drove over.

Oh, you need to be in their club!

"Sign me up!"

"You don't want to join our club."

"Sure I do!"

[makes ridiculous excuses making it clear that she did not want me in her club]

She also kept telling me to go to the UPS store.

"They charge!"

She insisted they do not, but everybody says that business that charges for everything charges for that particular service.

That left National Bank.

National Bank notarizes for anyone and everyone. They do not discriminate! Members, nonmembers, nonhumans, imaginary friends, hallucinations, and evil spirits!

They notarize for everyone!

They just wouldn't let me into the lobby twelve minutes before closing.

I have spent hours trying to get Dad's old office all-in-one to scan. It prints perfectly, although it keeps telling us to replace one of the color cartridges.

I am not paying for color!

Somehow the scanner is simply dead. There is only one USB cable, but I cannot get the computer to recognize the scanner. I looked into it again and something said to download HP's Witch Doctor, so I did. It took an unreasonably long time and I realized that it does not install because it does not connect to the scanner.

The program that is supposed to fix the scanner needs to connect to the scanner in able to fix it.

If it connected I wouldn't need the program!

I think that I will just send Office Lady a picture and say "We don't have Kinko's!"

So the heater core is replaced, but the car isn't put back together yet?

Had a strange dream that I ran into Doug and family in AZ. He needed boots for some reason, so I let him pick among my collection. When he picked my 22 year old mountaineering boots, I steered him towards the lightweight Gore Tex ones... I'm halfway serious about climbing Rainier again this summer, and I'm too cheap to replace the mountaineering boots I bought when I was 16. You can't have my old crappy boots Doug!

I just voted. I put 6-12 months. You got a few weeks left before you make me WRONG. Please don't make me wrong. I may melt like the Wicked Witch of the West. :)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TXP7Ilp8Aj0

My instructions ended up being thirteen pages, although I do not think that includes how to remove two parts.

I have two pages left.

After sleeping five hours two nights in a row I was in bed for ten last night, although I do not have any idea if I actually slept once my family was up.

My brother wanted to take a nap in his recliner, so Mom told him to raise the foot rest.

Normally he puts his feet on her new recliner and I bring the footrest out of my room if I need to pass.

Apparently his recliner is broken. He tried several times and Mom told him to stop.

It sounded pretty loud.

It sounds like it is time to order him a wall-saving recliner.

I'm on year 2 of performing my 14,000 mile valve adjustment on my 20,000 mile motorcycle. I've got you beat!

I've moved the bike from my dad's garage to my own though, so that can be seen as progress. Also thought about printing out instructions. The frustrating thing is the instructions refer to other instructions, which refer to other instructions, so I have to wrap my head around the Inception of completing this work. Also can't have a beer while doing this work as it's too new/complex and requires my focus... and that's how I get to 2 years of not adjusting the valves on my bike, and refusing to pay someone else to do something I'm capable of doing myself.

I still could not get my scanner to work, at least through Windows and HP's programs, but someone had mentioned scanning through Paint.

I successfully scanned through Windows Paint!

Strangely, having already potentially slept for ten hours, I felt sleepy again, so I settled for a three-hour nap.

Much of the plastic broke off the back of my mirror control. I put gorilla tape on the back, folded it at the edge, put down baking soda, evened it the best that I could, applied just enough super glue, and waited for it to dry. I sanded it smooth, marked the slots with a Sharpie, and cut them out with the smallest bit in the smallest rotary tool from Harbor Freight.

It looked good, but did not fit together somehow. I kept trying to trim parts that stuck out.

The baking soda and super glue did not flex at all. It started cracking where it originally broke, so I cut off the tabs. It still did not fit and the rest of the housing is cracking, so I ordered a used one from eBay.

$42.23 and is not supposed to be here for nine days. I am going to put the few remaining interior parts in the trunk and move on.

I told myself that when I woke up I would get up and work, even if it was at 0530. Well, I did not fall asleep until almost then, after about six hours of tossing and turning. I could not find this plug on my work table:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1592548186
The box into which Mom threw all of my stuff, or the floor, so I started looking for my jack stand to see if I had reinstalled the plug.

I could not find it, so I started organizing the garage. I had made great progress when I found the jack stand and actually had difficulty stopping organizing.

The plug was in the block. I reinstalled the radiator petcock and it was time to see my one client--except they asked to reschedule. I helped my brother work with a speech therapist actually paid to work with him [which was painful], reviewed my instructions, and started reconnecting the heater hoses.

I realized that I never reinstalled this:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1592546635
I needed to do that first. It was a pain to reinstall and I cannot find the other end of the cable or where it is supposed to attach. I am deeply hoping that I can do this without removing the dash and heater core again.

This is supposedly the bottom of the heater core with the cable, so it should be accessible:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1592546982
This diagram indicates that is true:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1592547316

If I can reattach that without removing the dash and heater core again I need to:

1. top off the battery acid.
2. Reinstall the battery.
3. Drive to an AC shop, have them pull vacuum, and refill my system.
4. Drive home.

So, this will probably take all day.