I stripped a bolt hole in my Forester engine block!
 

I removed the cylinder head, got it milled, oiled the washers and bolts, and maneuvered it into position, with every bolt sliding to catch on everything possible. I lost a friend because I considered working on my car in general and properly torquing my head bolts specifically to be more important than listening to her talk about the milkshake machine at Jack in the Box. I installed the valve cover, the camshaft sprocket, and then could not find torque specs for the timing belt idler pulley (28.9 ft lbs. NASIOC - View Single Post - Meatys Timing Belt Changing Guide). With great hesitation, remembering needing to replace the oil pan on my Civic because that steel bolt stripped out the aluminum hole, I carefully started tightening, but I could not help but notice that it never felt tight. I backed out when it started feeling looser, but it was too late!

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1430653503

I need to leave for drill, so I cannot look into this until afterward, but I need Helicoil 5543-10 M10 x 1.25 Metric Fine Thread Repair Kit, right? Then I need an actual drill, not just my cordless screwdriver, right? I need to pull my engine to properly drill and perhaps even to just get a drill in there, right?

Should I hire someone with the proper tools (and knowledge!) to do all of that for me?

Thanks!

Gaaa! Sorry. I did something similar to my valve cover once last year. Igot the helicoil unit and it worked perfectly. I did a write up. I hope it helps, even though it is a somewhat different job. I considered drilling the hole as perfectly straight as possible to e critical, since I needed it to seal. My write-up: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post441039

BTW, offer an honest apology to the friend, ask how to make it up, and if she's a true friend, you've lost nothing and probably gained.

Thanks! I just do not know that I can properly access the hole. I do not want to try to find something that fits and attempt to keep the drill straight without being able to look closely at what I am doing.

At least I would not need to worry about the filings!

I mentioned the friend to the latest girl that I have met on-line. She responded that it sounded like my friend is in love with me.

I certainly did not want to tell a prospective suitor (is that the right term?) about someone else seemingly crazy for me.

If I understand your situation the aluminum is deposited on the threads of the bolt

If this is correct then there is not much drilling left to do. It might be fairly easy to finish up the hole and tap for the heli-coil as drill bits tend to "self center" when drilling through a smaller existing hole.

Heli-coil kits generally come with the drill bit, special tap, installation tool, and the coils themselves.

I have severe reservations about posting anything on this thread that would imply that the job is a "piece of cake" as I know in your case that scenario seems to be rare.

"Lack of empathy" by your potential female friend when you are deep into trying to fix something, at least to me, is a big "thumbs down" on any continuing relationship, but then I have not heard her side of the story

regards
mech

Xist, sorry to hear about the stripped threads. I applaud your effort to DYI something that most people would be afraid to touch.

I'd look to have a relationship with someone that doesn't require your constant attention. I used to think I wanted a girl that "needed" me, but the best relationship is when people don't need each other, but choose to be with each other anyhow. No crazy dependencies, no unhealthy insecurities, simply the enjoyment of sharing the company of another person.

Heh. Just put the bolt back in, tighten it all of the way, and pull out the rest of the old thread? :)

Or is that a horrible idea? I am never sure...

Since the threads are aluminum, why not power the drill bit by hand? One of those little drill bit holders with a T handle should work fine, and you will be able to feel what is going on.

Some sites spell it Helicoil, but it shows up as Heli-coil on oreillyauto.com. While Amazon has it for $40.83, O'Reilly and Ace charge $55. Then I need a tap wrench, right? Schroder 4.006.4 Ratcheting 1/4-Inch Tap Wrench, 3-1/2-Inch Long - T Handle Rachet Tap - Amazon.com. A tap guide would help make sure that my hole is straight: V-Tap Guide, Metric sizes 1.6mm to 16mm. Finally, I need a drill bit!
Bosch CO2153 13/32-Inch Cobalt SP Jobber Drill Bit

$103.43

I had to repair the threads on the timing belt tensioner screw on my Civic. The heli-coils I'm familiar with have a coil shaped insert. I went with a TIME-SERT (Specifically Amazon.com: TIME-SERT M6 X 1.00 Metric Thread Repair Kit 1610: Automotive) and the inserts are thicker and one solid piece. Considering how critical that one hole is, I wanted to have the best chance at fixing it.

Honestly, Heli(-)Coil versus Timesert seems like a matter of opinion. I spent at least an hour reading about it and people list pros and cons for each side. One single piece does sound better than a coil of wire, but from what I have read, neither really fail when installed properly, which, considering my usual luck with projects (and the ladies), does not reassure me at all.

Amazon offered same-day shipping on the drill bit and the guide. Sweet! Let me drive up there in the dark, line up the drill bit, and twist the bit between my fingers!