Improving Mpg with my 1998 honda civic si
Hi Everyone,
I'm looking for way to improve the mpg on my d16y8 motor I've installed a contactor to enable or disable alternator this brough my mpg from 37- 42 mpg which i'm happy with for my first mod! I'm looking into these things for some added mpg.. -advace the timming a tad for better low end torque -remove p/s belt and maybe loop p/s rack I was wondering where i could find some more info or help on how to do these mods... -Eoc Switch -how does this work... so it cuts the car ignition without shutting of the scanguage... and right before i run out of speed .. do i bump start the car back in gear ... (i have a 5 speed).. should i use it when i pulse and glide... that would be annoying bump starting every half a kilometer ... ... -dpf delete.. i head about it .. gota read more on what it is.. if any info please post... -moon covers & removing my si spoiler .. (never really lliked my spoiler) for added mpg fyi i have 98 honda civic si coupe (canadian version) thanks |
Kill Switch - Try this
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...c-12075-3.html wiring info is on page 1, PGM-FI location for your car is on page 3 This mod cuts off your fuel injectors/ignition/fuel pump instantaneously. It leaves the ECU on, therefore, the car's odometer/trip meter/scanguague will continue to log miles. You use this essentially with pulse and gliding...except now, you glide with the engine OFF. Basically its. 1) get up to speed 2) shift to neutral, flip the switch to kill the engine. 3) then bump start in 5th gear to start the car up again. 4) yes, that means you have to bump start every single time. But technically, you dont HAVE to bump start it, however, bump starting saves wear on your key/ignition. On my usual commute to work, normal driving i get about 28-30mpg. When using engine off coasting, i get 38-40mpg. So, this REALLY helps. |
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A contactor is just a crazy beefy relay. He must be cutting the power line from the alternator to the battery instead of killing the field generating wire.
Welcome to the site. Can you tell us a bit more about your commute? That'll help tell us what mods will work better than others. |
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i average a commute of 25km to work .. 80% highway.. the rest city... the bad days stuch in traffic on the highway for about 50-75% of my commute... (happens 1 - maybe 2 times a week) |
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i tried disconnecting the field generating wire from ecu ... i belive its pin 17 on the 2nd or 3rd connector... and is made no difference ... the alternator woud still stay on... i will post a ecu pinout ... maybe i had the wrong wire disconnect when i tried doing this.. ecu pinout added.. if anyone can point out the right wire to enable and disable the alternator .. i can get rid of my contactor heheh ! thanks! http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif |
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You could try to help your motor breath better a CAI will help as long as you stay away from WOT it will work as well as an exhaust system whyle this may seem like steps in the wrong direstion think of your motor as an air pump breathing in from a restricted inlet (CAI frees this up) and exhaling through a stra (a decent size exaust that will not cause too much pressure loss) a CAI is good in the summer when it gets hot and switching to a shot ram in the winter. I'm assuming you drive on the 400/401 for you to hit traffic.
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Creeper, please do a search for cold air intake testing here. You'll find much info showing they do not increase fuel economy. The same goes for opening up the exhaust on naturally aspirated engines, turbocharged engines are an exception to the rule.
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