The Impsight: My mischievous little devil of a car. ('00 Insight fixing and modifying)
 

The heck with the beat up and worn out Prius. I now own a 2000 Insight!

Can't believe my luck! :D

How much and in what shape?

$500. 257Kms (160K miles). Good shape for it's age, other than the IMA battery needing attention or replacement.

She drives well. She drives straight, suspension is hard but working properly. Needs a brake service, and/or better brakes, and possibly a wheel bearing; Will figure that out when I'm cleaning up the brakes. Desperately needs the wiper linkage reconnecting.

Other than the noise from the brakes/wheel and the wipers not doing anything but whirring, she's a perfectly driveable car.

Here she is:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603740320

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603741434

Rusty brakes from sitting too long:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603740382

Serviced:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603740426

It appeared the upper caliper bolt doubled as the slider at first, judging by all the brake lube on it...then I looked closer and decided that wasn't right. The sliders didn't want to move...not sized, but dry and stuck. Everything else was lubed. A hard enough shove got them moving:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603740461

(Do your brake services properly, people!)

Grinding noise was not the brakes. Had her running in gear with the brakes completely off, and it was still there. Traced it the the passenger side bearing and/or CV joint. I intend on replacing them both, since the CV boots won't last much longer anyway:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603740700

She stops better now. You still have to push fairly hard to get her to come to a quick stop, but you can now actually come to a slow stop rather than not a lot happening and having to push them hard at the last moment.

After, I went to put a heater in the back to blow on the IMA battery and such, since I noticed condensation on the battery switch. Pulled the storage tub out to find the spare tire sitting in this:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603741061

Scale and lack of depth make it not seem so bad...but there was probably 2 gallons in there! No wonder the car started fogging up when I took it for a drive first thing this morning.

At least we know the spare tire well is water tight. :p

Not even a grommet/plug to pull to drain it. Sigh. :rolleyes:

Blows out the $1500 beater category doesn't it?

How much of it is aluminum? I'd be tempted to strip, polish and clearcoat the bare metal.

Time to update your profile pic?

This could be the best deal I've gotten...I bought my purple '95 Metro for $500 as well...drove that for years. I've had cheaper, but not ones that look or go as well, nor would they be worth nearly as much as this once everything is working properly.

It's all aluminum except for...I don't know! There's aluminum everywhere. The rear wheel skirts are plastic. There might be other parts that are. The wheels and tires...I can lift them comfortably with one finger! The cargo well cover is foam. Pushing it around my garage is easier than pushing a fully loaded shopping cart. It's nuts!

I'll switch profile pics if/when I start driving it regularly. Needs working wipers first!

Deez LEDeez!

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603808143

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603808151

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603808162

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603808167

It was so dang dark inside with the lights on that when I had a bit of time to waste, I swapped in LEDs.

I haven't been able to stand dim little incandescent in the interior of my cars since the first time I swapped in LEDs a decade or more gone.

Exterior will get them eventually. Muddled around with a brake light, blew the fuse, decided I've not got that much time to kill and put it back together. They're dual-element, which almost assuredly means polarity headaches with LEDs. That will take time and probably additional circuitry to work out. But at least I have the right bulbs. Or circumvent it by adding a separate bulb.

Wipers just need a new nylon bushing. The push-rod simply popped off. Will hopefully get one in a couple of hours, when the dealer opens up. If I can't, a Doorman one will probably do the trick.

Don't mind the junk, it's from the trunk...which looks like this at the moment:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603808753

The IMA stuff has had a day to bathe in warm, flowing air, which continues, so it was time to try grid charging/discharging method(s).

Oh, I love this sticker on said IMA stuff:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603809078

It doesn't come across as a warning about tinkering underneath the panel, so much as if they'll send a hit-man after you if you do! :D

Wow, that was fun.

Quick & dirty discharger that wouldn't discharge quickly turned into diagnosing the issue...no voltage on the charge lead, even after charging it, though the charger shows it must be connected properly. Well, drat, I'm pretty sure I know why that is...

As I thought would be a good idea, there's a diode on the other end of the charge lead. That's gonna make discharging a PITA.

Tiny alligator clips to the rescue!

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603907914

Pretty janky!

Sigh. Suppose I'll have to make something safer if it's going to be a permanent fixture. A removable fuse in line with an alligator clip as a diode bypass, so I can just pull the fuse out when it's not needed. As if I have any 0.5 amp fuses laying around...

I wonder how many AH I should pull out of it each discharge... :confused: It's a guessing game when you aren't working cell by cell.

BTW, a nylon bushing from a Doorman multi-pack will work, if modified. $5 vs buying a whole rod for $35.

What's inside a $155 charger?

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1603909117

Nuff said.

I figured a 2.5ah total discharge would be safe...woke up to find it down to 97v! Ha!

Not what I was going for, was expecting 120-130v. Oh well. It’ll come back faster than expected or not at all. We’ll see.

2 hours in, and we're not yet down to the starting voltage of yesterday. I take that as a good sign.

...make that 3 hours.

...just dipped under at 4.

...and woke up - 13 odd hours in - to find it @ 95V. Still not stellar, considering how low the draw is, but certainly better than yesterday.

Looking forward to it not being charged by the time I get home from work, if that ever happens. (That will mean it's capacity has reached 50% or more of original)

"Fully" charged by the time I got home, in 9-10 hours. Presumably means it's still under 3AH.

Discharge #3 is underway. If I don't see much change, I'll try discharging even farther...then give up and see if it was enough to get the IMA running again.

Chiming in to say: FANTASTIC! You got yourself the fuel economy nerd's Ferarri!



Did you know it has 5 (FIVE) factory fuel economy gauges in the cluster?

You're making me miss mine.

That's a screaming deal for a west coast (brake/fuel lines not corroded away) running & driving Insight! What's the story on how you found it / lost it / bought it for so little money?

It would have been a one-line story, but it took a twist...

I search local online classifieds regularly for certain things, including EVs and Prius'...but occasionally check for cheap hybrids.

So a week or more before I bought it, I found it advertised. Very little information, no photos...color, mileage, IMA not working...$500. I got stupid excited and emailed him in the middle of the night and then called first thing in the morning...took a few calls, spread apart, but I got ahold of him mid-morning. Said i was calling about the Insight for sale. He said "Yes?" as in, go on...meaning he still had it...told him I'd like to see it ASAP...

Only to be told it was sold, and he was just waiting on the guy to pay and take it. He wasn't about to sell it out from under the guy.

:eek: :( :mad:

I was so...deflated.

A week or so passes, I got an itch for a deal and a hybrid, go check out a 2010 Prius, that turned out to be an over-priced turd. Glad I was able to walk away, despite that itch. Get home, sit down...get an email from the Insight seller..."Still available, if you'd like to see it". :eek: :) :) :)

Send him an email seconds later, saying I want to see it, and as long as it can move under it's own power, I'll definitely take it. Even if it can't, I want to see it.

It will, he replies. I (more calmly) said "TAKE MY MONEY!!!!"

Set up a time to see it the next morning. As early as I could get him to.

Pestered him with questions in the minutes before going to bed, and some after.

Went the next morning. Has been sitting parked along side half a dozen other vehicles of his. Barely checked it over. He started it, I checked that the trans and clutch worked - couldn't drive it, not insured - and then asked him if he had the registration handy to sign it over. Paperwork, signature, viola!

I had the keys and paper work in hand, and had to remind him - twice!! - to take the money. :p

Went 10 minutes up the road, got plates and insurance, decided to play it safe, since it wasn't charging the 12v battery, and called a tow truck. Told it would be half an hour before they get there. Get called back before I get out of the parking lot, 10 minutes away. Tow truck beat me there.

He arrived with it at my house all of a couple of minutes after I got there. Offered to sign me up for BCAA for about $15 more than the cost of the tow, which covers 3 more free tows, so I signed up for BCAA.

And that's how I got BCAA coverage. :)

Wait, What? :confused:

*Totally just econerded out*

That is an awesome story.


I remember how excited I was when I found my 2000 Insight at a rural used car dealership, sitting (unwanted) among the pickup trucks, SUV's and tractors. When the guy told me they only wanted $1400 for it, I literally thought: "POKER FACE... Don't let them know how much of a deal this is! POKER FACE!!"


You're going to have so much fun.

I expect so! I won't get rid of this until I'm too old and broken to drive it any more.

I let it discharge longer, by an hour, which meant it also got an hour less charge time before I got to check in on it...dropped down to 95V, was 168v when I checked on it...170 is fully charged, in theory. Gives me a better idea on capacity than getting home and not knowing when it hit 170.

Had over an hour since then, only up to 169. The longer, the better...unless I lost a cell!

Hmm. Do I discharge even farther next time? Do I leave it on charge for 24 hours, like some very unscientific guys recommend? (I'd feel better about that if I limited the current to like 50ma)

Life changing decisions!

Charge-line is now bi-directional. No more janky alligator clips!

Interesting. It got it’s shortest charge today/yesterday, not much time at 170v since I was working on the charge cord for a couple of hours...and yet it was still at 150v after nearly 9 hours of discharge!

I’ll take it as a good sign.

I did not want to over do it, so I put the discharging on hold until the morning, when I’ll be able to monitor it and prevent it going too low.

Just getting down to 140 volts after 13+ hours of discharge.

...

...

Weird.

Think I'll go for broke this time! :eek:

I cheated, every chance I got!

Cheating:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350779

Cheating:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350789

There's your problem:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350797

More cheating:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350800

The last bit of cheating:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350805

Cleaned:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350813

Back together:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350823

Checking that it was all the way in:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350827

Damned boot!

Fixed:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350831

Look, Ma, no rust!
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604350818

And no more stupid-loud growling bearing noise.

How'd I cheat?
I don't have a press. My slide hammer kit made up for it. Twice. Don't have a bearing separator, so I cut the race off. Pressed the last 1/8" on using the CV shaft and it's nut, since the slide hammer bits were past their limit already.
My ball join separator was too big to fit with the CV shaft in the way. So I ignored the FSM's procedure and dropped the other end of the control arm. Problem solved, without beating on hard-to-find aluminum knuckles and/or control arms.

What a way to spend the whole morning. :snail:

Good for you. I've only had to change one wheel bearing in my life, and I took the knuckle off the car and brought it to my mechanic.


Are you retired? :D


Also: mods you should be planning:


1) Engine kill switch. You're going to discover that the default programming doesn't stop the engine nearly as soon/often as you will want it to. EG. it won't stop the engine above a certain (low-ish) speed... much loss of potential fuel savings right there.

There are numerous approaches for accomplishing this. I chose the easiest/simplest.

2) "Clutch switch": enables you to decide if/when you want assist. Very useful in preserving SOC in a weak-ish battery pack.

I mostly drove mine without using assist, but regularly flipped the switch to access regen.

(PS: you should really have a dedicated thread for this! It's a vehicle, not a random small thing! If you agree, I don't mind moving the existing posts over. Just tell me what title you want on the thread.)

Thanks for the tips.

I haven't come up with a title yet - that isn't dirty - which is why I haven't asked. And I wanted to drive it more than around the block first!

I wish I was retired. Of course, I'm not sure what context you mean that in. No, I'm not a retired mechanic, and no, I'm not retired so that I can spend all morning working on things. I'm crazy, that's all. :p

I went for broke...

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604409267

Almost. It was taking too long to hit my goal of 50V, so I chickened out at 66.

0.6Vx120 cells = 72v. 0.4Vx120 =48v. Numbers given by "battery university" regarding nickel cell reconditioning. 0.6v being the minimum to have an effect from one quoted source, 0.4v being suggested by another source as the goal.

The problem there being that only works if you are doing single cells, or by some miracle, they all stay in balance...which is basically impossible.

It all might be a load of BS, but I did read "50V" being the absolute maximum one seemingly informed user posted on insight central.

Watched a youtube video where one guy had "great results" from driving his pack don to 0v, which he did once or twice a year and had supposedly put 100k on his supposedly "bad" pack by doing this. He seemed very un-informed, though. Absolutely no research or science behind his choices. But at least, if he wasn't lying, it suggested that the pack won't go belly up if you "accidentally" discharge it too low.

It's all about the cells being balanced, because unbalanced cells means they will - reportedly, from many sites - go in to "cell reversal", where they literally flip polarity and can/will be damaged irreversibly. Hence why I took several discharge/charge cycles before going for an even deeper discharge. The idea was to revive and, hopefully, balance as many cells as possible first. Otherwise the weakest cells would have gone deep in to reversal.

In theory, the worst cells should have been the first ones to drop low and then be reconditioned. Which means on the second cycle, they would not be the weakest (they could have, in face, been the strongest, if they weren't actually damaged). So a second group of cells would have been the first to bottom out and get reconditioned on the second cycle. And again on the third.

The deep discharge was, realistically, to catch the cells that were the most healthy to begin with, so that all cells would be reconditioned at the end of it. Not having gone all the way down to 48v means I could have missed some...but then again, if they were that healthy, they probably didn't need reconditioning.

Take all this with a grain of salt. It's what made sense to me to do, while minimizing risk....at least without actually pulling the pack out and reconditioning each stick individually. That would be the best/safest way. I don't see much point in going through all that effort though, unless the pack can show me it's got enough life in it to be worth it.

Considering I bought it assuming the pack was toast, I wasn't counting on being able to revive it.

Considering even if I went through all that effort, it would probably still be a turd - it's not going to come back to 100% capacity, no matter what I do - it wouldn't be worth my time.

Hence, I went with an approach that I expect would prevent making it worse than it already was, without wasting unnecessary effort. I was in no rush while i was waiting on parts, after all, and I have other vehicles. A week of charge/discharge cycles where the most effort I put in was in modifying the charge cord seems right up my lazy alley.

I could have assumed it was never going to revive, at all, and just tanked it right down to 0 volts the first try...reversing most of the cells in the process. Not how I do things.

22 hours in:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604409271

Highest voltage I've seen yet. Fingers crossed, that's a good thing. The highest I've seen it previously is 172, which quickly settled to 170...as this chemistry of battery drop 0.05v once they hit 100% SOC. I think 176 is the max a healthy pack will hit...

I'll find out if it was worth even this much bother later...haven't hit 24 hours charge yet, haven't fixed the leaky roof/pillar seals and it's decided to piss down rain this morning...might just wait until tomorrow. Might let it keep charging until the voltage it settles.

I'd be chewing my nails in anticipation if I was more excitable by nature. :snail:

The plot sickens...

Reset the IMA, light didn't go away. Wasn't sure it would just buzz off or not, so took it for a drive. Still didn't go away.

Finally got around to checking the CEL for codes...my cheap scanner telling me there's issues with the throttle position sensor and the throttle control valve.

Well, that's annoying. So I cleaned the engine ground connections(They weren't pretty).

One of them went away, and so far has stayed away. Yay!

The other kept coming back.

Ok, fine, time to check what to look at to fix it...

Oh, drat...my scanner is stupid, doesn't know this is an Insight...nothing to do with the TPS and whatnot. All to do with the IMA. :rolleyes:

Well, at least it idles better and keeps the voltage up easier.

Deep dive coming up. Of course, I'll find the BCM/IMA's grounds and clean those first. Makes sense that if one code went away with the other end of the ground circuit cleaned, the other one might if the other end is cleaned.

Yeah, hoping too much. But I bet it all comes down to corrosion somewhere.

Cleaned the one obvious ground connection at the IMA setup. Didn't fix anything. I have a disparity between two current sensors - battery and MCM, I think - that is disabling the hybrid side of things. I could easily check the battery one, it's reading about where it should with no current going through it. The other one requires current going through it to get anything out of it. Well, the battery one would need current going through it to verify that it's responding, but the test I did at least shows the circuitry that runs it is working right.

The headlights were pathetic before. They're nice and bright since cleaning the ground connections.

The engine also runs so much smoother, especially at idle, with the clean grounds. Peppier too, more noticably at low rpm.

Need to get the front brake rotors turned or replaced...now that she's quiet (bearing) and smooth running, the shaking steering wheel when you brake jumps out as the biggest annoyance.

I'll probably have to pull the battery pack out to get at the sensors. Watching a video on it, it looks pretty darn easy. Then comes the task of magically testing the sensors in question without the IMA's module hooked to power them properly. Fun.

Sigh. No one local has rotors. Will hold off until I've at least checked out the rears before ordering online.

I thought I could outsmart the IMA light...

Nope.

So I went brute-force and unplugged all the connectors going to the battery pack.

No more IMA light! HA! I WIN! :p

(Ok, not really.)

What did I win for all my messing around? a different code! Yay!

I did learn some useful things:

The motor controller works! So does the electric motor!

I know this because I also learned...

The hybrid motor will start the engine if you skip straight to "Start" rather than going to "On", presumably because there is a delay of the BCM or whatever turning off the IMA for a moment as everything boots up.

That's a good start. And a "good start". Fires right up, no slow chug-chug as the starter motor tries to overcome compression.

I verified it by disconnecting the starter's solenoid. Spent more time and effort getting the spade connector back on blindly/by feel than any one other thing.

I like the idea that I can start the engine, even if the 12v battery is too weak to do it.

I also learned that the HV wires going to the battery side have plenty of capacitance, and that the discharge resistor(or some other drain) must be on the battery side. That could have been ugly, if I hadn't taken steps to prevent and check things before continuing. MMmm...190 volts. Tasty!

I don't think the electric power steering works. The fuse was pulled, I put it back...and didn't notice any difference in the steering, nor any voltage drop when steering. Oh well, I wasn't expecting it to have any kind of P/S in the first place.

I suppose I didn't take my attempted out-smarting as far as I could have...

...and I couldn't leave it alone. Just went back and debunked my theory/workaround. Had another one since, will have to see if I can implement that somehow...the 0-state voltage of the battery current sensor should be 2.50, and I read 2.65...might be far enough off to make it think there's more or less current going through it. Hmm.

Anywho, still looks like I need to pull the battery to get at the sensors. I'll try any other ideas in the meantime, that can wait for the weekend... :snail:

Weather was good, couldn't resist driving her to work last night.

So smooth and quiet on the highway! Color me impressed!

Lifetime fuel consumption:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604765157

Drive to work and back. 2 cold starts. (and I mean cold...she was covered in frost in the morning!):
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604765163

That's 54mpg, for us simpler folks.

It's just one trip, but that beats where I got my modified Metro convertible, which was giving me 52mpg. (And, judging by that familiar tread pattern, also had Potenza tires on it...who knew!)

That's the kind of encouragement I was hoping for...will give me motivation to keep plugging away at her.

Woohoo for the first drive!!


Another common maintenance project on these is to clean the EGR passages, which tend to plug up with carbon over time. It affects the car's driveability in lean burn mode. Mine bucked a bit with small throttle changes until I did that task, then after that it was lovely.

Supposedly the EGR was cleaned by the previous previous owner. Of course, I don't know how many miles have been put on it since. At least I know what symptom to look out for now. Thanks!

Aiee!! Range anxiety!

Stopped at the last red light before the highway and my (12v) battery light was on! Uht-oh. Give it some gas to bring up the rpms and start charging...and it doesn’t! Aiee!

Decided I had enough juice to make it to work...moments later it started charging again.

Guess all that low rpm cruising through town with the lights and everything on wasn’t the best idea.

It had been pretty predictable up until now...get the rpms over 1500 and you’re charging. Apparently not tonight. Temperamental (emphasis on the mental) beast.

Maybe knees to sweet talk it more.

...and it charged the whole drive home. Anything at/above 1500rpm. It's possessed.

Fuel economy between the two trips went up to 56mpg. Unfair test, mind you, since there's no traffic on Saturday nights/Sunday mornings.

Money saving!

Radio wiring harness: $3.50.
LED Headlights, generic version of "Night-Eyes": $15.
Remote FOB: $12.
Transponder key $5.
Copying transponder: Free & priceless!

Disclaimer: Assuming each item works properly upon arrival.

I managed to sneak out one of the current sensors. Did I mention corrosion?

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604957409

Cleaning it up didn't fix the issue, though with it disconnected, my battery bars came up on the instrument cluster.

So it was back to pulling the battery.

After pulling half of the interior apart, just to get at the two back bolts on the battery, I found the ground connection for it all, and cleaned it up.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604957414

One of the bolts gave me a fight:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604957442

Who knew a 1/4" driver could break a bolt that big?

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604957446

Showing the battery my opinion of it after tearing apart the interior and fighting a seized bolt:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604957419

(Mod, feel free to delete it if it's too spicy for this forum)

I was expecting orange sticks:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1604957452

Those are distinctly yellow. They've been replaced at some point.

Tonight, we'll pull that second current sensor apart and see how messed up it is...then order replacement parts if a good cleaning doesn't fix it.

So...after all that, the battery current sensor looked really good inside:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1605035655

I cleaned up every connection on that side of the battery pack, took quite a while, put it back in and...nothing different.

With that sensor looking good inside, which I did not expect, that points back to the first sensor. Either it's toast, or something else is going on.

It's supposed to get 5V:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1605035675

And is getting 5.08.

It's supposed to put out 2.5V at 0 current:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1605035670

Which should be variable by checking against the 5V source:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1605035665

Close as it was, I chalked it up to my meter not being all that accurate. But...maybe not.

I have this sensor kicking around, left over from another project:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1605035661

Which runs on the same voltage and principle...it says right on it that +/-0.65V output = +/-200a current being sensed. If the one in the Insight is the same - and at this point, why not? - then at 2.61V, it already thinks 20+ amps of current is already passing through the sensor. Which would explain why the IMA system is reading a difference between the two currents and having a meltdown over it.

So...next step is to bench test the 200A sensor. Feed it 5.08 volts and see what it outputs. Feed it exactly 5V and see what it does.

Then, depending on the results, I'll decide between trying to feed exactly 5V to the one in the insight or else hooking the 200A one up in place of it.

Not much chance that the one in the insight is 200A - it's probably only 100A - but if it outputs 2.5V exactly, then it might be enough to convince the IMA not to spaz out.

Sigh. Better than throwing $200 trying to replace the sensor in there, only to find no change.

:turtle:

Got off my ass and put the interior back together this morning; took her for a drive as a reward and to drum up some more enthusiasm. Sun had come out, on my weekend...no better time! Took her out towards the ferries and back. Lazy, mostly level with a 55mph speed limit...

She gave me 66.5MPG! :D

With a working IMA and/or no city to drive through to get to the highway, she'd probably give me over 70. Okay, okay...rather ideal driving conditions/course, but still...

I wonder how much I lose to warming up the engine each trip? That 10-mile trip to work and then back after she's cooled off again certainly isn't ideal.

:snail:

The nerve of a bolt seizing/breaking in a 20 year-old car on the west coast!


Sue me for not feeling full of warm and fuzzy sympathy.



:P

It's worth noting, if you still have the computers plugged in on top of the IMA battery, you *may* run into issues where they decide to turn the DC-DC converter off, due to there being an IMA issue. Which in turn will let your 12v battery die. If you ever see the 12v battery light come on, this is the likely cause, and the "fix" is to yank those plugs.

Here's to hoping you can get your IMA gremlins resolved. Otherwise, there's always the arduino bypass, to turn off your CEL and make the car emissions- and inspection-ready.

My second Insight is currently completely IMA-less. If you find you can't fix it, a lot of that space can be reclaimed.

These were fine:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1606854728

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1606854733

These were not and were replaced and vacuumed out:

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1606854738

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1606854743

https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1606854748

Plus oil change and wipers replaced. (Note that 22" drivers side wiper is a tad big. Most brands were 21" on rockauto, but not the one that was the best bang for your buck, of course)