It's alive $200 doller a2 diesel jetta.
 

Ok just took it on a preliminary trip around the block.

So I dropped 200 bones on an 85 diesel Jetta. No key but the guy had title in hand. Reason it had been parked was that the main shifter shaft was broken. After a bit of welding and the mother of all interference fits the "yoke" of the main shift shaft is on and in place (no mean feat). The ignition switch will be a couple of toggles and a push button after I remove the guts from the steering wheel lockout.

The brakes need bled, and there is a slow leak in one of the tires (which all have nice tread)

It has the lowest output diesel so it is a bit of a dog, but it did ok once it got warmer.

My question to other diesel drivers is how do I coax the millage out of this thing.

I already do pulse and glide, eoc, and dwb. My guess is that pulse and glide won't net much gains in an oil burner, and the BSFC curve is flatter. EOC may not get much gains because the idle fuel consumption of a diesel is lower than a gasser, and starting a higher compression engine with bumpstart is not optimal. So am I down to driving without using much brake, and getting to top gear as quick as possible?

Some things that I would do: First, put Mobil 1 TDT (nothing else!) in the crankcase, since it is fully synthetic and is designed to handle the soot that diesels pump into the oil. Also install a fresh fuel and oil filter. Basically, good general maintenace is what will restore your fuel mileage.

Check out tdiclub.com they know their stuff.
Ironicly, with a diesel the same things that make power also make economy.
The synthetic is a good call, keep up with the fuel filter and add "Pri-D" on a continual basis in the south to combat water/algea issues.
Staying in top gear as much as possible hurts less than with a gasser. They like a bit ov load versus reving hi.
Diesels are slow off the line, but do better in a roll on.

I owned an 85 diesel with 52 screaming HP whether you needed them or not. You will learn how to use your gears to get up to freeway speed for sure. Some people claim more but my well kept records show between 48-52 MPG until the oil started to break down at 2500 miles then it would drop two to three MPG. One thing wierd is if the fuel filter is dirty the unit will smoke like crazy with extra fuel squirted into cylinders. Replace filter and smoke goes away. If you have emissions test run it real hard before pulling in to burn residue from muffler, pipe, etc. Use only Bosch glowplugs, the others are short lived.

Warning, ours killed outer CV joints (torque I think) about every 85 K miles. They had very weak brakes for a diesel car (no compression braking) and more than once I almost put it in the ditch when they would overheat and fail. Just use a speed low enough when coming down long steep grades that you don't have to use the brakes much (it will be slower than you think). Newer TDI's have better brakes.

At 249 K the fuel injector failed and would cost too much to repair considering the value of the car. That all said, my wife and I agree that the Diesel Jetta was one of the most fun and economical cars to drive and the best remembered of all the cars we've owned. Anybody with a newer TDI is blessed indeed.

Low on power, it's probably going to be thirsty when accelerating. Just give it a try.
Coasting should help, and driving a constant speed.

you've got the EA827 engine they actually have more in common parts wise with the 1.6gti engine than most other 'dub diesels. but they do follow the same mechanical fuel injection system as my '96 polo 1.9 (releative monster @63hp!!!!) looking at the otrque curve I found online (now lost the link) I run in the torque sweet spot and use 1700-2250rpm until I'm in top then P&G (engine on), so far I haven't done any mods other than maintainence and I've drag mine beyond +30%EPA
polo

Good luck and get some pics up - I wanna see the beast!

From what people here normally say, diesels get more milage when hot. Consider a block heater & grill block to start things warmer & keep them that way.

Don

it's been in AK for a few years, a block heater is already installed. If this thing becomes my daily driver I will add a coolant heater, and a cabin heater.

the oilburning beasty as been pictureized.

you can see the tools and what not in front of the tire. I did not happen to have an 11/16th lugwrinch and some great gorilla put the lug nuts on with a 12 foot long cheater, apparently. I sheared off two 3/8ths 3 inch extensions and broke a cheap ratchet. I will bring home some 1/2 inch sockets or acquire a lug wrench (likely the latter to stay in the car.)

The reason I am pulling the tire off is a slow leak and only one brake seems to be working at this point.

my current ride I paid 500 dollars for, did 500 dollars of repairs and installed 70 dollars of mods (kill switch and mpguino) My goal was 50mpg for it and I have acheaved that with a margin.

The jetta I paid 200 dollars for, and would like 50+ mpg with less than 200 dollars in repairs and mods.

Mostly because I have a coworker who says he would like something cheaper to run than his 78 3/4 ton dodge but that he can't afford to buy a fuel efficient vehicle. I have tried to make the point that the thing would pay for it self in about 1000 miles just in the fuel savings (not counting the cheaper insurance).

My friend in Edmonton has a Golf just like this.

Non mileage tips:

- The pot metal door latch mechanism break on the MkII era cars very easily. Source them out, get a left and right one for the front doors at least, to keep as spares.

- Diesels generally give no heat, or only give cabin heat WELL into a longer drive, so buy one of those electric seat pad/covers, or a blower/heater that plugs into the 12v cigarette lighter socket (and make sure that socket works too). Otherwise, buy a scraper for someone to chip the ice off your arse when you get out of the car in February.

Mileage tips:

Most of the good tips have been passed on already.

Diesels give the best economy when hot, as was already said so:
- Make your trips with the furthest distance first, so you have the longest time to come to temperature
- You're in a northern climate - Get yourself some cardboard or coroplast, to block about 80-90% of your radiator (stealth it for now, worry about aero-external blocks later).

It's September already, do the rad-block NOW! (My more modern 2000 Jetta TDI is running with at least 1/3 radiator blockoff inside all year, and closer to 2/3 -3/4 blockage internal and external to the radiator in winter.)

I'll suggest cutting the block into easy to pull sections internally, so that, if you're doing highway driving / passing through different climates (mountains and valleys), you can stop if the temperature gauge gets too high, and unblock as necessary. Oh, check/change the thermostat so you know it works, too!

Consider, for the coldest part of winter, having two batteries - either rig up a second spot to put the "carry on", or swap them day by day. At -40C OR -40F -- or lower, a battery at house temperature will crank a diesel over easily. You'll get fast at changing terminals if you do a battery for battery swap at -40... out of necessity.

Thermostat works well, and this car warms up quicker than my civic, especially considering that 1/3rd of a trip with the civic is engine off.

My climate is not typicaly that cold. But a block heater(already installed but I will likely put a pad on the head too) and a battery warmer or trickle charger may get swapped from the civic if I start to use this for primary transportation.

My commute only exceeds 45mph for about 3 miles (out of 20) so aero mods are not much help. The grill block is a good idea though. I think I have a couple salvageable aircraft pull cables and an aluminum shutter may be in order.