LED lowbeam experiment
 

Recently obtained some "3 Watt" rated cheapo white leds from ebay and decided to experiment with them for automotive use.
Easy to make DRL lamps or some high beam augmentation lights but I wanted to see how hard it is to create the cutoff and the little step up in the beam to the right of the center point of the projected beam.

The opportunity came up after I put window tint on our house and I had all this mirrored tint film left over. ( that is the mirror for the LEDs ).

Three LEDs connected in series and resistor values dialed in so the group of three LEDs draw around 200mA at 12.4 (ish) volts.

(That is less than half of rated power for now. Maybe later I will crank them up a little.)

I use two of these mirror assemblies each with 3 LEDs infront of the mirrors.
(total of 6 LEDs with a 400mA draw from a resting 12V lead acid battery after the two groups are parallell connected.)

For now very ugly as I just hot glued them to a piece of styrofoam,but this is not a beauty contest.

However it is still ugly enough that I'm just going to show a beam shot to the side of the house first.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-12-medium.jpg


Another shot on the yard including a tree in the beam of light.
This is about 7W of power as I switched to a lithium pack with 13.3V to power it for these pictures.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-11-medium.jpg

Here is the test rig. The one on the right side is a single piece of curved mirrored foil formed over a round object like the side of a small bucket.
Taped down with masking tape,then a thick layer of hot glue on the back side helps it hold the curved shape after it is cut off of the side of the little bucket with a razor knife.
The beam is very wide so for the next mirror (left side) I tried three pieces of curved mirrors aiming inward as an attempt to narrow the beam and try to concentrate it better.
Also both mirror assemblies aiming inward in relation to eachother and the beam is still very wide.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-01-medium.jpg

Some closeup shots of the one piece mirror:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-02-medium.jpg

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-05-medium.jpg

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-06-medium.jpg

Back side:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-07-medium.jpg

The three piece mirror:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-08-medium.jpg

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-10-medium.jpg

Viewing it head on above the cutoff line:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-13-medium.jpg

Below the cutoff line. (in the beam):
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-3d...-14-medium.jpg

BTW the LEDs are facing backwards and up at the mirrors and the mirrors are projecting the beam forward.So there is no direct glare (minus imperfections) looking at it head on above the cutoff line!
The pieces of masking tape near the edges of the mirror are there to clean up the beam from stray reflections due to tiny wrinkles/damage from me cutting it off of the curvature forming bucket!
Also the hot glue has to be applied very slowly in small quantities,allowing time to cool off quickly,not letting the heat get to the mirrored foil or it is going to wrinkle the foil ever so slightly even through a layer of tape and it will project an extremely spotty image!

Barna

Not bad,
I honestly thought I'd get a laugh, but I think you may be onto something, a little more powerful and getting those reflectors right might well look like a regular low beam output.
Hat off to you.

But have to mention the obvious though, legalities?

awesome beginning.

been trying to figure this out somehow too.
thanks for getting the feet off the ground here...

Are there any LEDs out there that give off light that looks more like what you would get from regular bulbs?

Thanks! I could never get them legal. However if there was a portable optical headlamp tester and we stopped 10 cars on the road at night in my area I bet 9 would fail the low beams. When I drive at night seems like everyone's headlights are aiming at the tree tops. I put my sunshade down when I have oncoming traffic to keep from getting blinded. (almost all misadjusted!). When they are behind me, I can see the shadow of my individual hair on my headliner or sunshade. That's lighting up the sky ahead not the road. It's a shame that those are legal!


Thanks! I hope other people will try too! Also now higher Wattage LEDs are cheap too so that might worth a shot instead of the small ones I got!


oil pan 4: LEDs emit their light mostly in the forward direction and not much to the side or rear like a regular bulb. These LEDs here are already wide angle,meaning they spread light in the shape of a wide cone but it would still be pretty useless in place of a regular bulb inside an automotive headlight assembly since their light would only shine on a fraction of the mirror surface designed for the incandesent bulbs. ( I actually tried it in a spare headlamp!)

However I have 194 bulb replacement LEDs (side markers) that they made to emulate the light pattern of a regular bulb. Instead of having the typical dome/lens that we see on LEDs, these little guys had an inverted cone shape at the end of the LED. So I guess that would throw some of the light back toward the rear and around the sides instead of the typical forward direction.

Maybe a small cone shaped mirror centered in front of the LED would help?

Barna

Where did you get those 194s?

When I was talking about the LED look, I ment the color of the light, those LED pictured put off something like 6500k, are there any LEDs that put off a softer color say in the 2700-3500k range something that looks more like a standard easy on the eyes head light?

Aaah color temp... these are listed as 10000k. I have some that are same physical size but rated as 1W and they are 6000-6500k. Their color is a lot less blue. More yellowish greenish in my opinion.

The 194 replacements I picked up at a trucker store along I-75 on my way to Atlanta. They were about $8 if I remember correctly and there was two in the package. They draw 15mA each. (the incandesent 194 pulls about 280mA)

Barna

Wow 10,000k I wasn't even close. 6,500k would be an improvement.

I will keep searching for 194LEDs, not that I know they are out there. Saving a 1/4 amp each is not a bad start.

One thing you will want to keep in mind about the led blinker lights, the blinker relay relies on the current draw for the blink speed. If you ever noticed your blinkers blinking 2x faster than normal, you know you have a bulb out. With LEDs it would blink even faster. Good news is that superbrightleds.com has the LED flashers that will make them blink at the normal rate, costs a little, but isn't too bad. I think marker lights and brake lights would be no problem.

On main topic, the LED headlights look pretty good, I have kind of been throwing this idea around for a while with a cone shaped reflector and putting some sort of reflective mirror to shape the beam to how I want it for brights. I drive at night 50% of the time and very little to no traffic.

Don't forget other bulbs, lights inside, dash lights, etc.

I was considering using larger LED replacements or more of them to try and get the blinker speed some what closer to normal. Maybe throw in a few resistors too.
Its not a one for one swap on the blinker bulbs.

Digi-Key - CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA453CT-ND (Manufacturer - CLM3C-WKW-CWBYA453)

A light 5500K would give a nice warm (yellowish) light. I wouldn't suggest anything above 6500K because the ammount of blue tends to glare other drivers vision.

I am about to buy some of the linked LED's or similar because they are pretty efficient, and have a good light quality (little weak in the green) and a high efficiency AC/DC switching power supply to light my computer room.

I found some vehicle LED replacement bulbs.
As stated earlier each 194 replacement will save at least a 1/4 amp.
I tested a sylvania 194LL, it used 320ma, the 194LED used 15ma. I am sure at 14.4v the 194LL will use even more.
I also bought 1156 (standard bulb for inside and out side the vehicle) replacement bulbs. Each standard 1156 bulb uses 550ma give or take 20ma.
The 1156LED I bought uses 60ma, thats a half amp per bulb.

All testing was done with a battery showing 12.5v (the volts you would have it you did an alt delete).

A high efficiency DC/DC converter would give you a stable voltage and extend the life of the LED's for those that are using an alternator.

At 20 mA those LEDs in the link are not going to glare any other driver.
3.2(V) X 0.020(A)=0.06W
They might be good for side marker or tail light if you gang up a bunch of them. I did not see the price but they ought to be really inexpensive.


Where did you find them and how much were they? Especially the 1156!

Regarding the blinkers a few posts back: It's about $12 for an electronic flasher in auto parts stores. Looks like a relay. I actually bought one to test but I have no intentions to convert my blinkers to LEDs. They are simply not in use enough to worth the hassle.

Barna

I found them at a Loves truck stop. They were made in taiwan
Cost $15 for 2.

Import style turn signals use amber lights.

A lot of US vehicles have brake lights and turn signals that share the same bulb.

If I had amber turn signals all around I wouldnt bother.

$0.27 each, I am planning on using a pannel of 20 or so to light a room. The benefit I found is the lower power ones are more efficient and wont need a heat sink.

I have done similar in my room already except I bought the raw LEDs and wired them up a resister + 13.8v power supply. Main reason is for a night light that uses just about no power. I have 4 in my bed room and is plenty to see and use my computer at night. I have them setup for 7ma draw (20ma rated) and are labeled as "ultra bright". If I put them up to 20ma, they light the room fairly well unless you plan to read a book or work on something (i fix electronics a lot), but are too bright for a night light at that power. One thing to note for room lighting... either plaster a lot all over with a small angle, or get more powerful ones with a WIDE angle. For the normal lighting I have some 600ma rated leds that are similar to the CREE ones (160 degree angle), going to run them at about 100-200ma with a tiny heat sink on them.

For anything to do with LED lighting, it seems the wide angle ones work well for lighting areas up (rooms, car lenses), and the small angle ones are better for flash lights or spot lights. Another thing to point out is to check for a good rated LED if you plan to DIY install them. Lumans and angle will be the most benefit, but also note if it requires a heat sink. It is always to go too bight and lower the current than over drive the leds. Besides them running cooler at lower than rated power, they last longer and are more efficent (lumans per watt).

I made an LED blinder out of about 90 small blue LEDs on a medium sized project circuit card and run them off 2 stack of 3 NiMH AA cells.
That was 2008 I think.

Found another good LED product.
At Lows I found 12VAC 1watt LED replacement array for 8-10watt T3 and G4 halogen bulbs.
I think it was $8 or $9.
Its a flat panel of LED cells, very directional.
The color is in the 3000k range (warm white), its nice and white with a bit of yellow. Not the typical light you think of when it comes to LEDs.
This would be good for universial fitment. It looks real useful for converting different things over to LED.
And its "designed and assembled in the USA". :thumbup:

Array Lighting - Premium LED lamp bulbs utilizing Selective Heat Sink Technology

Now since its rated for 12VAC, AC power is just a hair under 50% or less duty cycle and the web site says its good for 10% to 100% I have it hooked up to a car battery right now testing 100% duty cycle now, its been running it for about 2 or 3 hours so far.
The in back where its hooked up its 65'F the back of the array is peaking at 172'F with my temperature scaner.
At 12.2v when warmed up its drawing 130ma or 1.6w.

Looks like I have a drop in LED option.
My truck has the older H4656 head light setup where it uses 4 lamp low beam head lights, 2 are aimed low and used as low beams and the other 2 are pointed straight out for highbeams.
For some reason there are no LED H4656 replacements.
I just have to convert my two H4656 "low beam" head lights to newer the style duel low/high beam H6054 lights.
The H6054 LED replacements are DOT approved. I just hope they aren't 6500+ k blueish stuff.

Truck-Lite - Catalog Product : 5'' x 7'' Rectangular LED Headlamp, Complex Reflector Optics

From your link
So my guess would be no.

Yes I am seeing LEDs with nice white and white with a little yellow tint to them.
I think all the inconsiderate morons out there go for the color they know will irratate other drives the most.

I want LEDs that look like stock lights in most cases.
LEDs that are brite white with a bit of blue would go good behind the instrumentation. In older GM vehicles the area around the bulbs is white and part where the light reflects back on to the gauges is light blue.

I think they also go on the false impression that the higher the color temperature the brighter the light. I know thats how I thought at one point.

Enter code RE619 on superbrightleds.com and get 5% off.
Its a "returning customer" offer. I don't know if its a one time code or what.

Using a big gob of red/orange high temperature RTV on the back of the G4 array works really well as a heat sink.

great find.

this is the first readily available led low beam headlight that i've seen

Too bad they cost too much to be cost effective....

5" X 7" LED headlamp 12v replaces 6052, 6053, H6054 | eBay

Only place I can find them for sale..$243 each!

I hadn't priced them.

For $500 for the lights and another $100 or more for junk yard front end and grill to convert from the 4 head light system to the 2 head light system I think I shelve that project for now, maybe in the mean time some one will come out with cheaper 4656 LED head light that will be a drop in replacement, no modification needed.
I would do LED low beams and keep my halogen high beams.

I found a cheap pair of 4x6inch LED head lights on ebay.
They should fit both my camaro and truck.
Not expecting much from them, figured I would give them a try since I have money stuck in paypay (apperantly they only let you withdraw $500 per month).

I wouldn't mind throwing down a real amount of money for real DOT approved lights that work really well.

You can withdraw over the $500/month limit if your paypal account is verified or a Premier account. Don't remember which one removed the limit, but I have a CC + Bank account verified on mine and I have no limits at all (my account is also from 2006).

For the cost, personally, I would keep searching. $500 is a lot of gas!

When I realized there was a limit I assumed they wanted more money to "upgrade my membership" and relese all my money, but I don't mind. I can only hope this becomes a regular problem. -$500 cleaned out most of it.

I emailed truck-lite.com today and asked if they plan on making a high quality 4x6inch 4656 LED replacement in the near future.
I await their reply.

You can buy dual pin mount LED units at Lowes for about 9 bucks, equiv to 40 or 50 W bulb... Also some really pretty cool pin mount flat LED's both run on 12 V for low voltage track lights...

Dave

Yeah I have numerous posts and topics on the "G4 LED replacement array" on here (see page 2 of this post), dieselplace.com (super bright reverse light mod for any 74-91 tail light) and wind-sun.com.
I will post links when I have time later.

I like the G4 array so much I try to keep 1 or 2 on hand at all times incase I think of a new place to stick one or find a new use for them.

LEDs offer a brighter future, says report - Page 3

DIY: Super bright reverse light mod for any 73-91 style tail light - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

Good links.

For the dome light, you could have saved some money and just bought this: Warm White Light Panel 48 SMD LED Bulb Lamp T10 Dome Bulb BA9S 12V DC Adapter | eBay

I have one in my Camry. 3-5 times brighter than a new OEM bulb. My door didn't close very good one day I came home (morning/daylight time) and the LED light was on from noon to about 11pm and I still was able to start the car and go, didn't even seem like the battery was down at all. With the OEM, I had the same thing happen to me when I was running late for work, when I got out to the car, it was too low to start the car.

I'm thinking about replacing my marker lights with similar panels glued inside the lens. Could probably do the same for the brake lights even though they are white leds (lens will filter out some of the light). Them panels should work well for a cheap led lighting for off grid houses as well, but a true constant current power supply is more efficent than resisters.

A note on the 194 replacement LED bulbs, I bought a lot of 50 on ebay cheap (eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices).
On my house power supply (13.8v dc) they had a slight blue look compaired to the LEDs I bought in the past (120 degree 20ma) + resister. When installed in my marker light, they appear about 65-50% as bright. In my dash, they appear purple for some reasion, the OEM 194 bulbs had a blue/green skin over the bulbs, removing them made the gauges more white/yellowish, and now they are purple lol. I have my light brightness at the brightest adjustment.

So my suggestion is to not buy from Guangzhou, CHINA. The other LEDs I bought before was from Hong Kong, but require a resister + the socket plastic.

For my marker light needs, I plan to put 2-3 of my 120 degree leds in replacement of the concave led. Pretty simple mod since the 194 bulbs are made of 3 simple items... the concave led, a resister soldered to the LED's leg, and the 194 bulb plastic.

You can just buy the bulb plastic bases for a tad bit cheaper than the complete setup. 10 LED T10 194 168 Dashboard Side Light Lamp Bulb Base | eBay

Now to find out what socket the rest of my dash lights are! lol

I have only even seen #194 lights behind the dash.

I don't know about those LED dome lights, they don't have a heat sink. My G4 dome light mod is heat sinked with RTV and aluminum.
Also the G4 array is at least assembled in the USA.
Plus my dome light mounts were rusty and had burned wires, so drop in LED replacements were never really an option.

Autozone and O'rielly's has red and amber 194 LED replacements with 4 bendable/aimable 4mm LEDs. They are a bit expensive but are very bright and since they are colored all the light generated is useable for blinkers and running lights.
The colored pre-made 194 replacements are good for me because I work so much these days I don't have time to fabricate all my mods from scratch or raw componets. (I have more money than time)
Truck stops tend to have white 194 replacement LEDs.

I measured the 194 bulbs I have and at 13.8v they draw 21ma. I would guess yours draws more to produce more light. My 160 degree 3w leds require a heat sink, but if I run them at around 600ma they barely warm up and produce a lot of light (light/watt).

More money than time is a nice setup, but I know what you mean, I work 8 days in a row, 10 hour days, and 1 hour from work, but my off time is great... 6 full days, so I have time 1/2 of the time lol.

I should be able to fab up something with my 3W leds, the 194 bulb sockets, and the correct resister size. Maybe if I get a system down, members here would be interested in the DIY guide :).

Manufacturers such GE have on line catalogs for their bulbs that includes technical data on headlamps. The big legal hump is to have a high/low beam with the SAE spec cutoff for low beam operation. The driving lights need to be low glare and mounted low enough (say less than 24 inches from the ground) not to blind oncoming drivers. Some amber lens tape across the top might be helpful in snow conditions.

I have the 4 headlight setup so as long as they are 4x6 inch they can be low beam only, high beam only or high/low beam.