LED running lights at Walmart
 

I was in Walmart the other day and saw that they had LED turn and tail light bulbs. So I bought a pair of 3157 bulbs in a blister pack for $16.00. The factory web site says "Built-in can bus technology eliminates bulb out / error messages".

If I changed all the turn and running lights in my truck to LED, I would reduce the total power draw from 20 amps to about 16 amps.

They plugged right into the two right front positions. The total light level was a lot less than the standard incandescent bulbs. The difference was so great that I did not bother to take a photo. I just took the LED's out.

The low current draw made the flasher think that a bulb was out, so the flash rate increased. I cannot change the flasher because it is software in the BCM.

Do not buy the Walmart LED automotive replacement bulbs if you want to be seen at night.

Thanks for the warning. I hope you were able to get your money back.

I have read that the the only way to fix the flash rate is to use a transistor, which causes the LEDs to draw the full amount of electricity, and I cannot imagine who would want to do that.

Sorry for your loss. I looked into getting LED running lights but the stock bulbs are only 19w each and LEDs are 12w each iirc.

Or an electronic flasher, on cars that have a flasher. Chrysler, I know, controls all the lights from the TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module); I didn't know GM did the same.

I have never had any luck with led turn signals. I have been able to run a few select brands as brake light bulbs however there always seems to be an issues with resistance and the large led towers.

However for interior lights the led bulbs work flawlessly. I have ordered 20 #194? LEDs and 10 #74 bulbs for the civic. I am running the 194 bulbs on all my vehicles for license plate lights and never had any issues.

Well, that's 4 amps saved for ever more.

You'll find all modern cars control their lights from the body computer.

I tried to switch to LED brake lights I got off ebay but, kept blowing fuses for whatever reason so I switched back to the originals.

I have LEDs in my under door entry lights.
The plug in the car had 2 metal scooplike extensions to keep the bulb from shaking loose. Those same pieces form the contacts for the T10 connector deeper down the housing.

The first pair of LEDs were of the soldered-on-board type. One of them shorted the clamps and blew a fuse.
I now have small 2x5 LED grids in them with a small wired connector. No more shorting.

If you see metal thingies around the lamp assume they bear current and make sure the LED or whatever you put in does not short them.

I am also LEDs in select locations in the 06 GP. AFAIR the location are interior (overhead nice improvement), backup (nice improvement), marker and plate lights. Interestingly I couldn't get a one to work in the trunk light location, more light would have been nice here.

Matched the bulb color to the cover color. Got some duds just ordered one with more bulbs the next time. All are now as bright as or brighter than the originals. The surface mount seem to be brightest, but much more directional. Don't think I have $16 in all of them.