A method to make your diesel engine running better especialy after serious mileage
 

I've read recently on polish BMW diesel forum that if you have problem with injectors or fuel pump you should add 0,2 - 0,5 liter of 2 stroke engine oil for 50 liters of diesel fuel. As you know my engine was rebuild, but injectors and fuel pump were the old ones. I thought then, why not to try? I know there are many fuel additives, which should make your car's fuel system clean. From the other side I know that modern diesel fuels are more dry than it was before. Just to allow better fuel atomization.
Anyway after I've filled up Berta's tank and drove about 60 miles (100km) I've added 0.25 liter of 2 stroke engine oil. I've used cheapest 2 stroke engine oil that i could find on a gas station. I've started to drive and after 40-50 miles I've noticed that my engine runs more quietly and smoothly. For now after 120 miles on the mixed fuel tank my engine is quiet and running smoothly.

I haven't noticed any smoke or change in exhaust fumes.

It works for me so I've decided to share my experience with you.

Biodiesel is better, but yes, ashless 2 stroke oil is somewhat lubricious and will provide benefits to a diesel engine.

Biodiesel in old engines can cause gaskets in your fuel pump to start leaking. Biodiesel is much more agresive than regular diesel fuel. For example Mietek's (MB W168 CDI) user's manual says that it can run only on the fuel with less than 5% bio part. And my Berta is the good old diesel and I've read that bio fuel additives that should clean your injectors were a common reason for fuel pump to start leaking. Mixol (the 2 stroke engine that I'm using) is a mineral oil that won't harm any gasket made for regular diesel fuel, and it lubricates fuel pump and injectors, so it suits me :)

I have heard 2 stroke oil will prevent the diesel injector pump from early failure. My neighbor worked for the school board maintaining the school buses, he was telling me the new fleet of buses they bought was wearing out the pumps fast,
each was going threw 2 to 3 pumps a year, until he started adding 2 stroke oil to the fuel, after that the pumps did not fail, ever. I really should add some to my tank at my next fill.

He told me to use 1 -2 ounces per tank.

I've used 0,2 liter with 55 liters of fuel.

Biodiesel in low concentration will not cause pumps and seals to leak. As little as 1% in the fuel will give more benefit than 2 stroke oil.

I run 100% biodiesel in my Liberty CRD (VM 2.8 CDI), my VW TDI, and my Mercedes 240D (W123) and only had to replace the seals on my VW pump after running straight ULSD diesel, cost less than $100.

The oil you are looking for is called "TC-W3", and is originally intended for watercraft. It is highly refined, assless and tests verify that it adds lubricity to both diesel and gasoline. There are plenty of websites that discuss the TC-W3 in diesel, and what TC-W3 to diesel fuel ratio is recommended.

I DO NOT WANT TO START A UNICORN thread, but some also attest to adding one ounce of TC-W3 per five gallons of gasoline (a ratio of 1 to 640). There are many reasons why this is recommended and many of the potential concerns (plugged cats, etc.) do not appear to apply. I have tried it (A-B-A-B) and have my own results; however, I don't want to be bashed or have my testing practices questioned -- since that normally results (on various websites) whenever these types of fuel additives are discussed.

Not any different than a little MO once and a while, beyond the potential small pollution implication I don't really understand the bias against top end lube.

Its not like its new or doesn't work, certainly not a unicorn but it also doesn't always increase fe depending on your motor and its design. It generally reduces wear if used at the proper concentration.

It also can allow a motor that is not functioning correctly to run better (as I can attest to) right or wrong its a lot easier than doing the right thing and rebuilding.

I was very surprised to learn that MMO actually reduces lubricity in both gas and diesel applications. My Dad used it when towing his 5th wheel and believed it (just about) paid for itself, while reducing engine wear.

There are numerous and very long threads about TC-W3 on other forums (one well over 50 pages long).

There is a tendency for a few people on this forum to "reward" posts like this with some rather unduly sharp responses. I appreciate your response not being one of those.

In the 70s we used top oil (marvel mistery Oil) and water injection on a 63 GMC 6cyl 1 ton and water spray(radiator) to keep the temp down when pulling a 35ft travel trailer. my friend still has it, 20 mpg when it runs, original and now beat to --it

I've been running it every second tank in my 6.0 powerstroke for a few years. Because I alternate it with anouther additive I cant really comment on any fuel efficiency gains but I feel the lubricity benefits are worth it, especially in winter.

I may have to try that 2 stroker stuff in my old diesel in place of diesel service or the like.

MMO does have some sharp light materials in it, but on motors that tended to miss and stumble it would quite them down, I have observed it increase compression ratio also. I have experienced fuel consumption decreases with MMO as well but that may have been because the motor had problems and it was covering it up.

I've tried it mine. Instant reduction of FE. As the motor has already seen 185k miles of use I didn't figure it would hurt, and maybe would help a tiny bit. Nope. This HPCR (high-pressure, common-rail) motor didn't like it for "help". A PM from another contributor here indicated that it may be of help on older, low-pressure motors where the fuel pump is of a different design and used fuel as a lubricant.

I'll stick with ordinary fuel additives from hereon . . where Standyne Lubricity Formula is the choice of injection specialty shops (serving industry).

This product should be the basis of comparison, IMO.

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I know its a typo, but I want some of that 'assless' oil......lmao no pun intended. :-D

Oops. What a crack up (pun intended).

rmay635703-- what do you mean when you say MMO" has some sharp light materials in it" Please explain I assume you mean organics ,I wont run it if it has say metal

ahh...... that's what I was looking for, a possible mechanism by which the engine ran better with some sort of top-end lube mixed with the fuel.

It's likely freeing up gunked up rings and ring lands for a better cylinder seal. That would make sense.

I wish I had heard about this factor earlier. My injection pump failed, cost me two Grover Clevelands to have it replaced.

My engine's injection is based on the Bosch pump pretty much the same like in VW's TDi engines. And that works for me like a charm :) So I'll stay with 2 stroker's oil.

I would rather use power service and up the strength, or run diesel purge directly to the enjectors to clean them.

Bio-D is great and should not kill the pump if the tank is very dirty it could loosen gunk and clog the pump killing it assuming the pump is be for the fuel filter. If after the filter gust get a few cheap ones or an inline and change them a few times. Also from what I remenber Bio-d will wet dried orings/seals and switching back to ULSD can reshrink them causing leaks.

All true, but used in low concentrations (less than 5%) will yield all the lubricity benefits and none of these drawbacks.