A More Efficient Engine (Need help from some Toyota Experts)
 

This is relatively long, read at your own risk! :D

I've got myself engrossed in another research project. I've been researching various sites, but can't seem to find all the answers I'm looking for. I need help from some Toyota experts (*cough, cough* Daox ;)).

On my 2001 Corolla, I have the 1ZZ-FE 1.8L engine, which most owners know is an oil drinker. My friend is a mechanic and is willing to help me fix the problem (clean it out, drill larger oil return holes and replace anything else, like rings and gaskets). My question doesn't relate to that, however.

Something caught my eye and I started researching different Toyota engines, looking for a more efficient engine family than the 1ZZ. I found multiple, but I don't know which will swap and which will be more efficient, as they offer different technologies. If I don't have to do a full engine swap and there are only internal parts I can add/swap to the 1ZZ, which would make it as good as another engine, then I would be open to those possibilities as well. I just figured, if I could research a better engine, the best time to swap would be when we are taking the time to take it all apart anyway.

One major caveat in deciding the "best" engine is that no matter what transmission it mates to, it has to be clutchless (auto, multi-mode, etc.). For this application, this just has to be.

I included the Wiki page for each engine family, the major source of the info I have found, you may however have to scroll down. OK, here are the options I have found:

The first I found is the 3ZZ and 4ZZ engines. There is nothing special about these engines (at least in terms of newer tech) except that they are smaller than the 1ZZ (3ZZ is 1.6L and 4ZZ is 1.4L), thus by default sipping less fuel. My worry, however, is whether or not they would be under powered, but international Corollas use these engines, so I don't think it would be an issue. I could also attach a turbo if I felt that it needed more power (mimicing what auto makers are doing right now). But will the 3ZZ and 4ZZ swap into a 1ZZ N.A. Corolla engine bay? 3ZZ & 4ZZ

The next "find" was the 1ZR-FAE. It seems to be a better version of the ZZ family (at least for my needs). I like this engine, because it is smaller (1.6L) and offers Valvematic technology which varies the intake and exhaust timing and the intake valve lift (between 1mm and 11mm). According to Wikipedia, Valvematic "improves fuel efficiency by controlling the fuel/air mixture using valve control rather than conventional throttle plate control." Does that mean that there is no throttle plate in this engine, or does it just work differently? It also has a slightly larger compression ratio (10.7:1 instead of 10:1). The Valvematic, smaller size and higher compression make this a much more efficient engine (speaking generically, all else equal). The issue with using this engine is that it is only mated to a manual or a MMT (multi-mode manual). If the MMT is clutchless (say, paddle shifters), then this tranny will work for me. There is of course the issue of swapability. The European Avensis originally had the 1ZZ, but in later gens, it switched to the ZR, so I wonder if it is still swappable? 1ZR-FAE

I also found the NR family of engines, which has the 'Stop and Start' technology and some other pretty sweet stuff (like advanced materials and softer, smoother intake, 1.3L, etc.). It is available on the Corolla (11th gen, Japanese), so I wonder if it is swappable? I'm not running a taxi service, but sometimes on "errands day", I feel like I do, meaning an engine that can stop and start would be quite useful. (I also will occasionally have to deal with rush hour type traffic.) It also has a larger compression ratio (11.5:1).1NR-FE

The 1JZ-FSE has direct injection, but is a relatively large 2.5L. It's also a 6 cylinder. I know direct injection improves fuel economy, but the much larger engine will probably nullify that, so this engine is all but out of contention (in my mind). It does, however, have an 11:1 CR and can run at 20-40:1 in certain load conditions (not sure when). 1JZ-FSE

The 4U-GSE also has direct injection, but is a smaller 2.0L engine. It is also 12.5:1 compression. I assume that high of a CR means it requires Premium fuel. I would prefer not to have that large of an engine, but I wonder if I can get away with it because of the other tech associated with it. The problem I see is that it is a flat-four engine, which generically speaking, is more efficient than a 'V' or transverse, but I doubt it will work with the Corolla. (It's what the Scion FR-S uses). It is also a RWD based system, which I assume makes it impossible. 4U-GSE

Those our the options I have found. Basically, long story short, my question is which of these engines will swap into an 8th gen Corolla and which would be the most efficient. I want a few different things, but can't seem to find an engine that offers it all. So which technology is going to make the engine most efficient: smaller engine, Valvematic, Direct Injection, Start & Stop, boxer, Atkinson, new-age materials...? I tried posting this on my Corolla forum, but they're all about power, power, power and I'm cool with :turtle:, so I didn't exactly get the answers I want/need (I think this forum has more international members, which may be helpful).

I have a 4 gear tranny currently. If I could find an engine with a 5th or 6th gear, I would like to "upgrade". I found a lot of 5 and 6 gear FWD auto transmissions, but I don't know and can't find which fit with these engines (if at all). There is also an 8 gear tranny, but I don't know if it will fit any of these engines (it usually pairs to a large engine) and I'm not sure if I want that many gears anyway (I'd take it if I had to though :D). Transmissions

In my dream world (at least for this project), I would find an engine that is 1.X liters, Valvematic, direct injection, Start & Stop, Atkinson, new-age materials and high compression (and maybe a boxer engine to boot), mated to the most efficient tranny available (regardless of gear count). I know that is not possible (yet), so starting from that point, I would like to figure out what would be the next best option(s). If I could maintain or increase HP and torque at the wheels, while using less fuel to do it, that is what I am looking for (like most of us :p).

I know this is a tall order and there are a lot of variables, but I would like to get a basic idea on what could work and any help to further my research would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking for opinions about what I should or shouldn't do, I just want to know if any of the listed options are possible. At this point, I'm not worried about what the cost would be, but I am certainly not looking for a custom engine for tens of thousands of dollars. Once I find out what will work, obviously I would worry about the financials at that point. I am merely looking for what my real-world options are, as this is a theoretical research topic.

I appreciate any help with answers! TIA :thumbup:

I think if you want to have minimal downtime and drive it again in this century, fix and/or mod what you have.

ya that was a long post

Short answer: Give up, you're screwed. I have your drivetrain (if you are driving stick) and I've looked into this.

Longer answer: The European/Japanese spec engines that you mentioned are impossible to obtain in the US unless you ship one over. The 1NR can only be found in automatic here in the latest Scion iQ, and the electronics are probably going to complain if you try to bolt it to your old chassis without the host of electronics that the new car has.

The most efficient general purpose Toyota engine you'll find in the US is the 2ZR-FAE that is on the latest Corolla Eco model. The throttle plate is not used, so it incurs very little pumping loss, and it has a good compression ratio.

You can be a guinea pig for a 2ZR-FE transplant if you like. The new Corollas come with 6 speed manual transmissions but it'll cost a fortune to get one since they're brand new. Luckily the 2ZR-FE seems to have minor improvements over the 1ZZ-FE so you might find it worth the time. If the whole thing bolts in without too much modification then great.

The 1NZ-FE fits with some modification; Someone bolted it to a C60 using an adapter plate, and had to use a custom engine mount since the engine is shorter.

If you want to modify the 1ZZ I have some ideas for you; "Atkinson cycle" : you can pay Delta to regrind your intake cam for about 200 bucks for higher duration. 12:1 compression pistons are available and you can probably shave the head a tiny bit. You can get a piggyback air/fuel controller and wideband O2 and run leaner mixes for pumping loss reduction.

Thanks serialk11r! I appreciate the help. :thumbup:

I have a 4 speed auto (A245e, I think?). Not sure if that changes my options compared to your manual?

All of my research has shown these are mostly all import-necessary engines, so I assumed I would have to import one from the beginning.

I'm a little weary about the 2ZR-FAE, because it is the same size engine, so I'm not sure about the FE benefit (although, higher compression and Valvematic might be enough to make a difference). According to Wiki, it saves 5-10% fuel compared to the 2ZR-FE. Don't know how to compare that to the 1ZZ though, but it isreplacing the 1ZZ (maybe there would be a greater fuel saving, like 10-15%?). I would be happier with the 1ZR-FAE, because it is smaller, slightly higher compression and still has Valvematic, but I'm not sure if it would fit any easier/harder than the 2ZR. I imagine there would be some custom mounting necessary. I'm still wondering about the throttle plate, but I think I'll start a new thread about that.

I didn't realize the 1NR was already available here in the states in the iQ. I assumed with any of these engines that the electronics would be required (at the very least the ECU). Can the 1NR be bolted to the Corolla body or will I need some custom fab work?

I don't think I want to use the 1NZ, as the only benefit would be the smaller engine and I have the auto, so I don't know if there is an adapter plate for that.

If an engine is designed for RWD, does that pretty much automatically disqualify it for a FWD vehicle? Or is that too much of a blanket statement?

How much do you think the 1ZZ mods would help (in terms of fuel savings)?

At this point, the 1ZR-FAE is looking like the best option, unless you think another might be better (like another engine, or modding the 1ZZ)? I'm looking for the "best" option available and with a relatively large purchase, I wouldn't want to make the wrong decision, hence the major research now (and thus long posts, again :p)

Thanks again for the help! :thumbup:

The 2ZR-FAE makes you tired? :confused:

Weary is a synonym for jaded. Jaded is lacking enthusiasm, which describes how I feel about the 2ZR-FAE. I lack enthusiasm for that engine because of the listed reasons.

Ohhhhh. I figured you'd be wary of it- cautious and circumspect- because of some fe unknowns.

Yes that too! :D I'm weary and wary!

What does make a manual unsuitable for you?


They're not underpowered at all, but the wrong gear selection would make them feel so...


At least the MMT has lesser friction losses than the 4-speed automatic :thumbup:

Well I'd say your automatic is killing most of your efficiency as I've driven an auto 1ZZ Corolla before. The 2ZR is somewhat more efficient than the 1ZZ but you're right it's not a massive increase, you'd want a smaller displacement to get the maximum friction reduction.

Unfortunately if you really want to keep the automatic you're pretty screwed because the E140 Corollas and the automatic Yaris were still on 4 speed autos. The auto has a nice cruising gear but the gear spacing is horrendously wide (will hold lower gears longer because it can't shift down) and the torque converter doesn't like to lock.

The larger Toyota engines come with 5 speed autos and recently 6 speed autos, but you'll get a bigger engine so it'll probably burn more fuel anyways.

This is actually my mom's car and when it becomes financially feasible to buy my own car (I know, I'm talking about engine swaps :rolleyes:), she will get this car back. Unfortunately, being apart of the Navy, she has developed an issue with the whole left side of her body and has almost no control of her left leg (and arm), so she cannot operate a clutch or anything similar.

Will the MMT have a clutch, or at least have a mode that the clutch is not necessary to shift (she would use that almost always, obviously)?

serialk11r, you keep mentioning the 2ZR, is the 1ZR not possible? It is available on the Avensis, which originally had the 1ZZ. That doesn't prove anything, but it's closer than anything else I have found in terms of swapability. According to Wiki, "All engines are mated to a 6-speed manual transmission while the 1.8 L and 2.0 L petrol engines are available with a Multidrive S CVT transmission." That means that in order to get a CVT (no clutch, minimal losses), I need the 2ZR, but I don't see why I couldn't mate a 1ZR with the CVT. Hmmm...

I'm beginning to think it would be easier to import an Avensis with the steering wheel on the correct side (say a French model) instead of doing a swap, even given crazy U.S. and Californian laws.

Even in the manual-shifting mode, the clutch works automatically with the MMT. No clutch pedal.

Because it's not offered in the US and not tested therefore illegal. I would just but a brand new 2014 model that has a 5 speed because it will cost much more to import something and have it certified or swap an engine that need to be imported (we're not looking at a popular swap such as a SR20DET or something either)

Have you considered the NZ engines? Cheap, 1.5L, atkins, and you can pick them up and carry them around.

I did look at them, but there are some drawbacks (as with all the other options). I saw you have done the change though! :thumbup:

The problem I'm running into is first the majority of information I can find is only on Wikipedia, which is barely any info. NZ Engine

The second problem is that I would want to use the FXE engine, because of the higher compression. The problems though is
1) I think that means I need higher octane gas,
2) It's designed for a hybrid, so I don't think I could use it unless I took all the associated parts and
3) I don't believe it has VVT-i, so it's a trade-off and one I don't think I would want (again, very little info available and Wiki doesn't explicitly state that it is there).

The third issue is that the 1NZ-FE engine has an increase in compression, but only marginally (although in all fairness, I don't know what a .5CR increase would do to FE).

So... as with all the options, there is no single engine family that would be the holy grail that I'm searching for. If the FXE had VVT-i or even better Valvematic, then it would be for sure my number one option, but at that point, why don't I just buy a Prius C?! :cool: (Of all the Prius options, that is the one I *recently decided* I would buy ;))... never thought I would say that! :D

Have you never lurked to disassemble a wrecked Prius to fill the Corolla's body with its guts?

I think after thinking about that, I just over-rided my own thought process as being too complicated. Swapping an engine for $200 with minimal customization is one thing, but I just assumed a full hybrid parts list would be too much. At that point I might as well by a Prius... and recently I decided I actually like the Prius C (never thought I would say that!). It's probably because it looks like a 'normal' hatchback, not the standard prius cheese wedge.

There is also the issue of where to put the battery bank. Obviously the trunk is the most obvious, but I don't have a flat bottom (there is the spare tire and wheel wells and various nooks and crannies.) I also would want to keep the trunk relatively open for carrying purposes.

Apart from the battery placement, dealing with the high-voltage harness is another critical aspect.


The P-word would still prevent me from even consider to buy one. I'd rather get a hybrid Yaris if I would ever buy a hybrid...

Why is your engine an "oil drinker"? How much oil is it losing?

If you are losing oil it's either burning oil or leaking oil.

If it's just leaking oil, try to seal it with silicone. It's cheap but works effectively.

Early model 1ZZs are notorious for burning oil and destroying cats and such, because the oil passages are small, and the piston oil ring had a design flaw. My 1ZZ burns a quart every 1500 miles or so, and the previous owner + me combined have had to change out 4 O2 sensors probably because the soot from the oil destroyed them.

Exactly. It burns oil, because the oil return holes are too small. The next gen Corolla has the updated pistons.

I have three options to fix the problem. Take the pistons out, drill bigger holes, replace or swap in the updated pistons or swap in aftermarket ones.

Do you REALLY think this engine did the described burning "a quart every 1500 miles or so" from the day when it was new?

Do you think that this is due to the design of the engine, or that it's due to its age (and/or possible abuse)?

It's not a new engine problem. It doesn't develop until after it turns 'high mileage'. A quart every 1500 miles is actually pretty good for this particular issue. I've heard of people who use a quart of oil a week.

It's a mix of design and improper maintenance/abuse. The design is the overriding problem in that the oil return holes are too small. But many people have not had an issue. These people usually are highly meticulous about their OCIs and so the gunk does not develop. They usually also are using synthetic oil, which is another way to keep the problem from developing. The people who forget about oil changes and use the 'thick' stuff are usually the ones with the problem.

It sounds to me like you ought to deal with the oil burning issue and then stop worrying about it. Do some aero mods that are easy to undo and won't leave a scar, and call it good.

Countless engines and cats have been destroyed like this since the car first came out. The first piece of advice given on a MR2 Spyder forum is "gut the precats" so that when they disintegrate the bores don't get destroyed. This is not just my car, it's a common early 1ZZ problem. Otherwise I wouldn't have said early 1ZZs are notorious for this issue.

That's the basic plan. This exercise was intended to find an engine I could potentially swap in instead. I didn't want to do all the work of opening up the block and then find an engine I could swap in that is more efficient and possibly have more power.

I still have time until my friend's garage gets built (at which point, I will have a place to do it and an expert to help), so I have time to make a decision, but I am having a problem finding a good engine to swap. That was point of starting this thread, to get some ideas. It looks like the NZ engine would be my best option, but I don't want to do it, unless there is a fairly large increase in FE. (1MPG isn't going to be worth it, 10MPG is a different story.)