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Motor mount help
I picked up 2 new motor mounts today after destroying both of them for the third time. I was putting them in and realized the motor brackets and perches don't let the mounts sit straight. The motor brackets are a good inch wider than they should be in relation to the frame perches. This could be why I have been going through mounts like candy. I don't know what to do at this point. I could Cut and weld the brackets, drill a new hole in the brackets, or figure out a third option. I don't understand why the brackets would be so wide.
Any ideas? |
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any changes to the brackets can affect driveline alignment and need to be done after careful measurement and consideration. Post up more details and I am sure we will have some ideas on where to go. Simon |
The driveline has not been changed other than new springs in the rear. The truck has not taken any hits that I know of. The motor brackets are just too wide for the mounts and perches so the mounts get skewed and then burst under torque.
I do need to put some new gaskets in the motor, so it should probably come out anyway, but I was not planning on this right now. It would be easier to fix the mounting problem and replace gaskets with the motor out of the truck. I might just make some solid mounts and return the new mounts. That would cover the cost of the new gaskets.:thumbup: It is getting cold and I am not excited about this new development.:( |
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Simon |
I got it second hand. The previous owner was going to scrap it after buying a new truck, so he gave it to me. It has a few dings, but no major damage. It was a farm truck, still is. My brother swears the motor is out of a bigger truck, because it sounds different and has lots more torque than any other 300 that we have seen (25+). Everyone thinks it is a diesel motor, haha.
The mounts are right for the truck. They are the only mounts listed. My question is why the brackets on the motor don't line up right. The holes are too far apart by a little more than an inch. Everything looks straight as far as motor, trans, and frame. I have doubts that these mounts will hold up even after the fixing, so going to diy solid mounts is fine and dandy with me. The amount of torque on these mounts under full load is over 1,000 ft lbs and they can't take it. It ends with a very loud bang/pop, and the motor/trans rolling sideways, taking out wires, hoses, and anything else in the way. I am sick of fixing stuff when it happens. The more I think about this, the more I want to fab some solid mounts and call it good. My brother said he will come over this weekend and take a look too, just to make sure I didn't miss anything. Motor really did come out of a bigger truck and it has the wrong brackets on it? I don't know. |
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Simon |
Sorry, by solid I meant solid rubber/poly. The mounts that it calls for are hydraulic, which I don't want, and they are expensive. The stock mounts are not interlocked and when they let go there is nothing holding the motor. I would most likely use rubber or poly bushings for dampers inside a fabricated mount. Bushings can be picked up just about anywhere and they're inexpensive. I want this motor to be in there real good because it may be getting a turbo sometime down the road. It just started raining, and the truck is outside, so I won't be doing anything until it clears up. I really should have done this in the shop. :rolleyes::rolleyes:
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Sounds like the mounts are right for the truck, but not the engine.
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I returned the mounts and ordered some energy bushings. I'm going to weld up my own mounts. I have wood blocks in it right now just so I can move it into the shop. It doesnt vibrate as bad as I thought it would. These inlines are smooth. The only time it vibrates is when getting moving. Those rubber mounts let the motor move a lot. I like it better solid.
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I fixed a deteriorated motor mount with a hockey puck. Nice sturdy rubber that won't fall apart.
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