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My car seems to be P&G resistant.
My car (1994 geo prizm) seems difficult to bump start. If I let the clutch out enough to spin the engine enough that it will start, the engine will consume large amounts of kinetic energy and make some noises I do not like.
Comparison of the civix DX, Si, and VX, geo prizm, and saturn S series (approximate, I didn't research it much,) at 30 MPH. The prizm has gearing that is shorter than even the civic Si and this is after my rubber overdrive (185/70/R14 vs 175/65/R14) using the tallest tire that does not rub the fenders everytime I take a turn fast. Code:
car 5th final revs/mile speed clutch rpm |
What gear are you bump starting in? If its a low gear = no good, I always use 4th or 5th.
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My Renault has the same gearing and no problem bump starting in 5th or 3rd at lower speeds.
I wonder if you're throw-out bearing is bad? |
From my experience, short gearing actually makes P&G all that more effective because cruising in gear is that much less effective and it also shortens up your pulses.
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I have to ask, are you double clutching to match revs or just dumping the clutch?
What you describe sounds like my early attempts at P&G, after years of driving autos. :o It wasn't pretty :o I often clutch start the Mazda in 4th gear at the sort of speeds you mention, without any jerking now. |
You can't match revs with a bump start. I suspect a clutch issue- the engine doesn't know or care where the force to crank it is coming from, but the hard and noisy start doesn't occur with key starts, only bump starts.
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Then it's the bent frame. If it's throwing enough stress on the front mount to kill it twice a year, it's far enough out of kilter to disrupt other things- but since the starter is mounted to the engine there's no problem starting with that because it's always properly aligned with the engine.
The front mount being broken may let things become slightly worse, but even when new it can't keep everything properly lined up. |
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