oil bypass system
 

I havent seen much talk around here about a oil bypass system. It filters out oil down to 2 microns and makes the oil able to last virtually forever. The use them on trucks all the time. I have one on my wifes yaris and havent changed the oil in 15000 miles and it still looks clean. Look into amsoil website.

Perhaps there's not much talk about it because the stock oiling system, maintained with el cheapo Fram filters and Wal Mart oil, and changed at NORMAL duty intervals (if not even less frequently) will allow engines to survive to 300,000 miles and beyond. In many cases, the rest of the car is shot or the owner is sick to death of driving it before the 300,000 mile mark arrives.

I suggest removing the oil to increase MPG, the oil pump robs a lot of engine power. If you use those additives you don't need an oil pump, they show them on TV were they drain out the oil, and the engine still runs great.
This should help MPG a lot.

Hell, my '88 Escort has never had a by-pass system on it, I'm currently using 10K mile oil change interval using conventional oil and have been for about the last 40K miles, the car has 514K miles on the original engine with no rebuilds and still running. Engine still holds about 40-50 PSI oil pressure on a warm engine at 50-55 MPH on the highway and about 20-25 PSI at idle. Now tell me how a by-pass system will give me better service.

:eek:

Sarcasm I hope...

As far as reducing horsepower requirements to get more mpg it would be better to use a dry sump with crank scrapers and or windage trays, as these would reduce the amount of HP needed for the crank to rotate.


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a crank scraper is a good idea, but it wouldn't be needed if you drained the oil from the crankcase.

if you do use oil, using the thin 0wt oil helps, you can add some water to it to thin it out a little more.

as i do dyno tuning when i get a mod done.
the guys at my dyno shop are into there v8's
they have a car with dry sump, lumpy cam, and an ecu flash
they said the dry sump only gave them about 14kw.

btw there car makes about 470ishkw so yeah

Dry sump oil pumps have more drain on HP then wet sump oil pump .

There is a vid of big block wet sump on dyno that they remove 1 qt and it gained noticeable amount of hp. this was large wet sump i believe 6qt ,so they ran 5 qt .

0wt? yes. water? no, that's just asking for problems

just a conversion getting thrown in. 470Kw = ~630 HP

Not necessarlly. It all depends on the design and intended use. However, most are over designed.

Less volume of oil in the crankcase = less windage = less hp to spin the crank = more overall hp

Using a extra quart oil pan with one less quart of oil helps to achieve this without loss of original intended capacity.

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Don't use a crankshaft, they are heavy and inefficient.

A drysump means you can run the oil pump using an electric pump instead of engine power and make more HP.

Are your posts supposed to be funny? :confused:

i think all of you guys are missing the point. This is a eco website that is greared to helping the enviroment and reducing our dependancey on oil. Well if you have a oil bypass system you only need to change the oil once in the cars life and just add oil if the motor burns it up. leaks it etc. Over all if you own a car for say 200,000 miles and its a 5 quart system and you change the oil eveyr say 5,000 miles that equals over 200 quarts of oil compared to a bypass system that only needs 5 quarts plus or minus say another 10 at most for oil lost, burned, etc.

And if you bring your used oil in for recycling...

A rotary doesn't have a crankshaft, and I think its quite funny!
And two strokes don't have oil pumps or oil pans. :D

Not sure most performance dry sumps have like 3 stage oil pumps compared to single stage in a wet sump . you do get advantages as you pointed out with windage as it is dry now and of course main one of no starvation in high G forces .Most engines have no shortage on hp that use dry sumps (not used on many passenger cars except a few sports cars like 930 ).
I try an find the vid it was showing the differences of different oils and then running the engine low by 1 qt which on this extended pan is fine .

yes I did miss the point, because you didn't make it.
My apologies if this was your intention, looked like a spammer posting to me.
As usual Frank is right, you can recycle used oil, these days used oil is actually very valuable.

Glancing at the amsoil site, looks like the system would be $200+, + effort to install it, might void warranty, and then $38 dollar filters. 200 quarts oil, and 40 filters when spread out over 6-7 years/200,000 miles is more ECO friendly to me.

Those systems can be worth while when your talking gallons of oil in a engine, but not 4-5 quarts, when you get into gallons, sending out samples for testing can even be worth while.

I'm here to learn how to save $$ not the world. Burning E85 in wife car to save $$ and as a plus part of the money stays local, when E85 cost more per mile back to E10.

How does this bypass system handle acids that build up in a gas engine . I see most are used on Diesel engines .

I remember reading a similar remote oil system but that one had a heater in it to remove contaminants but this doesn't have that .

so hold up, apart from trying this oil bypass system (which we are all curious about)
your saying if i run LESS oil in my sump i will gain more power?, and a considerable amount as well....

do you guys want me to dyno this theory or not??

It's true if "full" on the dipstick is at a level that causes windage.

Engines can be run 1 qt low for a reduction in windage which in theory should free up HP and fe, and it is safe too, as long as you don't let the oil level get too low. "Add" on the dipstick is not too low.

The eccentric shaft is essentially the crank shaft. 2 strokes and rotary's burn oil for lubrication, but both have huge problems with emissions.

Water and oil don't mix.

Sigh..

I see the confusion here.
Dry sump does not mean they have drained the oil. It means there is not an oil pan full of oil under the engine. It is a constantly recirculating system with an external circuit, cooler, filter, etc.

With regard to the oil bypass filtration system suggested by the OP I can say its a good cost saver in the long run for larger engines running on expensive synthetics. My LPg powered 3.2 litre Jaguar XJ6 used to have an TF Purefiner 1 micron filtration system that I fitted and it would run on Amsoil synthetic oil for approx 30k miles before a change was required.

The issue with running the oil for the life of the vehicle is that the contaminants in the oil are not just particles of metals and dirt etc, they are also acids that will corrode away bearings and even water, soot and other chemicals that can cause demege if allowed to build up.

The biggest indicator is the oil's Total Base Number (TBN). Its best to change the oil when the TBN reaches 50% of its original value (new, unused oil). This requires oil samples to be monitored at regular intervals and of course involves some cost.... but as it also reports on the condition of the engine (much like a blood test for us) its valuable in spotting problems before they become serious :-)

So, on my Jag the cost of oil was £50 per fill, and with an oil change being specified at 10k mile intervals it would have cost £150 for those 30k miles. Instead it cost me the £50 plus 2 oil sample tests @ £13 each, so £76 instead of £150. Half the cost!

The kit cost £215 tho so you can work out how many miles before payback :-o