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RobertSmalls 04-14-2009 09:55 PM

Project: Zombie Insight (2000 Honda)
 
3 Attachment(s)
Restoring and ecomodding a salvaged 2000 Honda Insight

Summary:

I needed a fuel economy project car. I decided against the Saturn S-series and the Civic, since they'd always leave me wanting more. I have purchased a wrecked 2000 Honda Insight, and I intend to get it back on the road, then improve it beyond the stock condition. By ecomodding and ecodriving, I hope to get 70mpg average (which includes winter) and a 100mpg (>1000 mile) tank. It may be unachievable, but I want to get those numbers while exceeding the speed limit.


Insipiration:

I've wanted a first-gen Honda Insight since before I bought my first car (five years ago). It's not just the fuel economy that's attractive. I love the way the engineers were apparently set loose and told not to worry overly about cost or whether Everyman would buy one. It's fuel-sipping halo car.

I appreciate the extreme compromises that were made in the name of fuel economy. The aluminium frame is far more expensive than steel, yet it saves only a little bit of gas. The aerodynamic back means you only have two seats, and the IMA batteries gobble up your storage space. 65HP and LRR tires means this is no sports car.

But look at all the superlatives: Best EPA fuel economy ever. Lowest BSFC that I know of, with a 41% thermodynamic efficiency. Lowest CdA of any car you could ever buy. Smallest engine since the 1988 Metro (at least it was until the Smart came along).

I want one. Since good ones with high mileage go for >$6000, I bought a wreck:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1239760115

$1725 on eBay. It's a 2000, with the 5mt, no A/C, with 46000 miles on it. It runs and drives, but it has no radiator, and the oil pan is cracked and leaks. It's somewhat crazy to buy a wreck on eBay, but even worse: I had never sat in an Insight before, and I still have yet to drive one outside of first gear.

Before I bought it, I went to the dealer and priced out all the parts I would need, and figured that would be $4000, list. Well, nobody pays list price for parts, and I figured I could buy most of them used, or fabricate replacement parts to save a couple grand.

Here's a closeup of the damage:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1239760115

The oil pan is also the bottom half of the engine block, and mine has suffered blunt trauma:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1239760115

The reason this car hasn't already been made into beer cans, is the crumple zones bolt on to the part of the frame that survives a crash of this speed. I see no evidence of the frame being bent. I was able to obtain used frame extensions and bumper rebar for $200 shipped. Radiator + cooling fan would be $200, a new oil pan is $270, replacements for the deployed SRS components are $775. So I'm $3400 into the project, and once the parts come in, the car will only be a few zipties short of being a fully-functional, roadworthy zombie. I say zombie because the plastic fenders are slightly smashed, there are many small scratches, the bumper cover is dead, the hood is wrinkled, and the radiator will be held on by zipties.

At that point, I'll pay the State of New York an exorbinant amount of money, and hopefully get plates put on it. Once the vehicle is on the road, the ecomodding can begin.

RobertSmalls 04-14-2009 09:56 PM

The vehicle leaves the factory with the following:
*high pressure, low rolling resistance tires
*rear wheel skirts and underbelly aeropan
*body tapers toward the rear - it gets narrower on the top, bottom, and both sides.
*idle engine stop and instant re-start
*breathable fabric seats to reduce HVAC load
*agressive, expensive weight-reducing measures
*synthetic 0W20 is specified

But that's not enough to reach the project goals of 70mpg average and a 1000 mile tank while exceeding the speed limit. I plan:
*Manual control of the IMA electric assist and engine kill/restart.
*Warm air intake to allow lean burn in the winter.
*Engine heater for the winter. I'm thinking about the coolant-circulating type.
*super-stock aerodynamics. This car starts out with excellent aero, but there's a litte room for improvement.
Since I'm starting with a clean slate in the front bumper cover region, why not go with a CFD-optimized nose wedge with a tiny radiator opening?
I'd also like to do front wheel skirts. Maybe I'll relocate a mirror or two to inside the door. Since this is a small car, there's room at the back for a boat tail... but I don't think I'm going to go there.
*Weight reduction. 65 BHP, remember. I've already completed my first successful ecomod: I removed the 465g (1.1lb) decorative plastic engine cover and mounted it on my wall at home, where it belongs. The 1681g (3.8lb) glove box is having a hard time justifying its existance. I'm looking at canvas replacement options. The rest of the interior is made of lightweight materials that I would swear are just plain cheap if I didn't know better.
*Reduced electrical load. LED marker lights? Probably not. They're just too expensive.

Wish me luck! I hope I can pull this off.

Deezler 04-14-2009 10:23 PM

Yes! I like it. All the best. Looking forward to regular progress updates.

MetroMPG 04-14-2009 11:32 PM

Sub-SCRIBED. Another great EM project gets underway! (Where's the popcorn?)

Daox 04-15-2009 08:31 AM

Nice project Robert. I saw that car on ebay and thought seriously about bidding myself. Keep in mind these cars in stock form can hit over 100 mpg if driven correctly so 70 mpg should really be a piece of cake. Your should mods will only enhance that.

jamesqf 04-15-2009 11:55 AM

70 mpg average shouldn't be difficult: my lifetime average is at 70.9 mpg, for the 85K miles I've driven over the nearly 6 years I've owned it. My typical drives are probably less conducive to high mpg than most, too. I frequently drive up this road Nevada State Route 431 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia for hiking & skiing, spent a couple of years travelling regularly to the Bay Area over this road California State Route 88 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, and have been known to head off on desert dirt roads to places like this: Toiyabe Range - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Though I must admit, I don't always exceed the posted speed limits :-)

1337 04-15-2009 12:10 PM

Nice find! I've been thinking about buying a smashed Insight for a while now. If I do, I'll set myself a cap of like $4000, and my goal will be to make the car roadworthy without spending over that dollar amount (for the car _and_ for parts).

I'm excited to see how this goes!

SVOboy 04-15-2009 12:19 PM

Looks like it should be a good project! Keep up the good work.

theunchosen 04-15-2009 11:43 PM

Since I now stand corrected on the alternator solar swap, you should hook up with solar panels to put on your dash and rear(since you can't have passengers). The alt delete from other users is woth 10% and you can easily get enough juice during the day to keep up just using the dash and that rear window(or the surface below it so you don't block your view). Mounting it inside protects your aero and keeps the panels from getting lifted when your car is unattended.

Also since you have electric assist the PV panels could entirely avoid having to use the engine at all to power that(or recharge the batteries). I would keep it attached on a switch in case its cloudy(PV can generate small amounts of power depending on cloud thickness, but its not going to be close to enough to replace the alternator in inclement weather.)

Also depending on how often you carry a passenger you might ditch the passenger seat. yours is probably not all that heavy but its a good 20 lbs at least(mine had steel frames and "heavier" foam replaced with CF spine and lighter foam for 20lb delete per seat(two)) which is alot more than your glove box and alot more annoying than a glove box. No glove box ever held an obnoxious person that I had to haul around.

RobertSmalls 04-16-2009 07:03 PM

Thanks for the support.

1337, I'm saving reciepts and tallying up expenses. $4000 may be a difficult mark to hit. To restore this car to stock, I would need another $1000+ in body parts. I'm saving most of that amount by fabricating and repairing what I have. The result won't be pretty. ;-)

TheUnchosen, Honda took care of the alternator delete. Instead of an alternator, it has a 144VDC -> 12VDC converter, and a 144V, ~12HP permanent magnet motor that rides on the crankshaft. So I can just use regenerative braking instead of solar panels.

Converting the car to a one-passenger vehicle would indeed save weight and free up cargo space. However, I think my future ex girlfriend(s) would prefer that I just tear out the carpet and replace the glass with plastic. p.s. it sounds like you need a sedan, so you can carry obnoxious passengers in the trunk.

RobertSmalls 04-16-2009 07:06 PM

I should also add that in addition to having no alternator, the car has electric power steering, and mine has no A/C. Thus, the only belt-driven accessory is the water pump. I've contemplated replacing it with electric, but the result would be heavier, far more expensive, less reliable, and the FE benefits would be small, I reckon.

1337 04-16-2009 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls (Post 98512)
Thanks for the support.

1337, I'm saving reciepts and tallying up expenses. $4000 may be a difficult mark to hit. To restore this car to stock, I would need another $1000+ in body parts. I'm saving most of that amount by fabricating and repairing what I have. The result won't be pretty. ;-)

TheUnchosen, Honda took care of the alternator delete. Instead of an alternator, it has a 144VDC -> 12VDC converter, and a 144V, ~12HP permanent magnet motor that rides on the crankshaft. So I can just use regenerative braking instead of solar panels.

Converting the car to a one-passenger vehicle would indeed save weight and free up cargo space. However, I think my future ex girlfriend(s) would prefer that I just tear out the carpet and replace the glass with plastic. p.s. it sounds like you need a sedan, so you can carry obnoxious passengers in the trunk.

Hey, if you can do it for under $4k, more power to you. I would try to make the body as stock as possible, because the stock Cd is 0.25.

TheUnChosen,
Forget a sedan; that leaves room for 3-4 obnoxious passengers in the cabin. You need a Del Sol with a passenger seat delete and a lean burn engine swap.

It will be efficient, and the _only_ place for an obnoxious passenger to go is in the trunk.

theunchosen 04-16-2009 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls (Post 98512)
Thanks for the support.

1337, I'm saving reciepts and tallying up expenses. $4000 may be a difficult mark to hit. To restore this car to stock, I would need another $1000+ in body parts. I'm saving most of that amount by fabricating and repairing what I have. The result won't be pretty. ;-)

TheUnchosen, Honda took care of the alternator delete. Instead of an alternator, it has a 144VDC -> 12VDC converter, and a 144V, ~12HP permanent magnet motor that rides on the crankshaft. So I can just use regenerative braking instead of solar panels.

Converting the car to a one-passenger vehicle would indeed save weight and free up cargo space. However, I think my future ex girlfriend(s) would prefer that I just tear out the carpet and replace the glass with plastic. p.s. it sounds like you need a sedan, so you can carry obnoxious passengers in the trunk.

I have a dump truck for occassions like that. . .or if I am worried about it I can use the cement truck so no one can see in.

MM good call on Honda's part. Still if you are under your 4K and looking for additions solar would help maintain your batteries, and allow potential EV conversions to require less energy storage for your average trip.

dremd 04-17-2009 03:25 PM

SUBSCRIBED!!!

I hope to help however I can.

One option is to make friends with somebody at the dealership and see if you can get employee discounts:-)

RobertSmalls 04-24-2009 10:40 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Real life continues to interfere with the project. I'm moving this weekend, but I hope to be able to spend a few more hours on it next week. Assuming my parts come in as scheduled, I should be able to attach the front bumper rebar next week.

I met a guy at work who has welding equipment and is willing to practice welding Aluminium on my car. I'll buy a case of beer and some bar stock and see if we can't get the radiator, headlights, and hood latch in place. At that point, it'll pretty much pass state inspection.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1240627080

While working under the hood, I noticed this expensive-looking part is broken. The manual says that's the idle air control valve, though the car idles fine. I wonder what else might be broken.

Here's a view I hope I don't have to see again for a while:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...5&d=1240627080
My oil pan arrived, and I installed it with a few complications. I decided to torque by feel, and I broke one of the oil pan bolts. I don't think it's going to be a problem, though. There are ten other bolts in place, and the broken bolt is easy enough to access if I ever need to drill it out in the future.

I added three quarts of Mobil1 0W20, took the water pump belt off (no radiator anyway), and decided I would charge up the 144V battery pack. I attached my ScanGauge, and it showed 11.4V on the 12V battery. Turned the key in the ignition, but you can't start a 3-cylinder full of virgin 0W20 with a mostly-dead battery.

No big deal, I figured. I've got the Subaru, and some jumper cables. I'll just jump it. Alone. In the dark. With the six foot jumper cables from my Chinese-made roadside emergency kit. And my Subaru is five feet wide.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1240626960

After making a few sparks, I decided to just pull the 12V battery and put it on my charger at home.

SVOboy 04-24-2009 10:48 PM

Good luck getting it started!

Even if the IACV is broken it may not seem like it's acting funny, but it may idle high/have a bit of a vacuum leak. I wonder if it share an IACV with another honda model.

RobertSmalls 06-10-2009 08:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm stumped.



I haven't touched the car in about a month. I've been making excuses to myself about work and the new house taking up too much time, but the fact is, I'm stuck. I suppose I've been waiting for an epiphany, but one has not come. Here's what I've been looking at:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1244679280

That's where I want the radiator. So far, I've cut the old radiator support bracket off of the wrecked front bulkhead that came with the car, heated it up and straightened it out, mostly. I attached aluminium stock to the bumper rebar with two rivets, and I was hoping to also attach it to the radiator support bracket.

I bought some 1/8" aluminium L stock, which is about as thick as the member it would be replacing. I chose L stock over flat because it's much, much stiffer in torsion and bending. That's also the reason it's harder to work with.

I've never done fabrication before, which is a good reason to try it myself. I still need to build a radiator support (including an upper support to constrain the radiatior), hood latch support, and probably a few odds and ends to tie down the fender liners, headlights, and a temporary front bumper cover. Then it would be ready for inspection, and for service as a daily driver.

The problem is, I can't connect to the radiator support bracket, because it's not shaped the same as the L. Even if I could, I'm skeptical that two pop rivets top and bottom would hold it. I don't have a welder, but I'm not sure I could get one down there anyway.

Once I get the radiator hung, I still need to figure out how to suspend a hood latch in the middle of empty space a few inches behind the radiator.

So, how do I get there from here?

theunchosen 06-10-2009 09:26 PM

radiators aren't all that heavy. And usually are supported(on avg sized cars and mid sized SUVS) by 4-6 screws/bolts. Mine is supported with 4 screws in these I believe they vary from 3/8 at the edges to 1/4 in the middle.

You've got 2 bolts(or screws I can't make them out) that look to be holding down the front end of the fender, I don't know what a Prius is supposed to look like(No one ever brings them to us and we wouldn't know what to do anyway ^_^) but I've got stock a piece of flat steel that comes across in front-above the radiator that the front bumper mounts to. It also has two screws that attach it to the fenders for added stability. I'm not sure how good those mounts are but its worth a start to maybe get a little bit longer bolts(or screws) and put a mounting strut across the front. If the mounts for the fenders are really good you can use it to attach the front bumper and hold the top of the radiator as well as put a little L support on the back to reach your hood latch.

If you go with fiberglass bumper you don't need very much strength to hold the weight so as long as it can defeat the wind forces its gold.

MechEngVT 06-11-2009 09:19 AM

Fill the radiator up with water and then weigh it. Aluminum radiators aren't heavy, but the water that will fit inside them is. On top of that, radiators (especially aluminum ones) are very vibration sensitive. The support has to be sufficiently rigid as to not create additional flexing input and to properly resist the isolator mounts (you are counting on using elastomeric isolators for the radiator, right?).

Why aren't you using a normal core support? I would think you could get one in a junkyard from an insight that had been mounted by a semi. That would solve your concerns about radiator rigidity and provide for a hood latch.

theunchosen 06-11-2009 09:41 AM

I agree with MEVT. If you are looking to fab it yourself. . .the jury rigged description above would be your best bet.

Otherwise if it were me I would find another junked one or parted out one and buy the front glacis supports(and maybe the bumper too).

RobertSmalls 06-12-2009 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MechEngVT (Post 109206)
Why aren't you using a normal core support? I would think you could get one in a junkyard from an insight that had been mounted by a semi. That would solve your concerns about radiator rigidity and provide for a hood latch.

Well, I really wanted to fabricate for the sake of improving my fabrication skill, but I guess I will actually have to buy the original front bulkhead from Honda here. Salvage frontal crash parts for the Insight are all but unobtainable. Though there are Insights with 300kmi out there, they don't seem ready to retire to the junkyard yet. Most of the ones in the junkyard were involved in low-speed frontal collisions.

Another reason to fabricate: The factory radiator is off center, which means my grille opening will be off center as well. I guess that doesn't affect the aerodynamics too much, but it's gonna look mighty odd when I'm done.

Hmm, I didn't know radiators are vibration sensitive. What, do the fins come unsoldered? Yeah, I was going to use the two rubber feet that came with the radaitor.

Btw, the entire cooling system capacity is one gallon - 8 lbs. The radiator fan motor probably weighs as much as the radiator + coolant. I'm continually impressed by this car.

doviatt 06-12-2009 11:41 AM

I'm kind of late to the party here but, I wana watch.
There is an Insight that parks next to me at work sometimes. I just have to drool over it.

subscribed.

RobertSmalls 07-04-2009 10:51 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Ah, I got a free bump. I may as well give an update: Things are coming along.

I ordered that front bulkhead from Honda, and it more or less bolted right up. Sweet; progress has resumed on the car. I've got the cooling system installed and burped, and what a cooling system it is! The thermostat does not fully open until 100°C, 212°F, so you really won't be running this system on water alone. I also straightened out the hood latch, and that's in place.

Here's how it looks:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1246760983

There's about 20L of vacant mechanical space next to the radiator, where the A/C condensor and fan would go. If I need to add mechanical systems (electric vacuum pump, bypass oil filter, 120VAC coolant heater), that's where they'll go.

Earlier, when I tried to charge the main battery, I got a check engine light within a minute, and the IMA system shut down. The code indicated that my $4000 battery was dead. Now that I know more about NiMH chemistry, I was able to get it to charge without a check engine light. The problem was that I allowed the batteries to become fully discharged (which you should not do), then I tried to charge them too quickly. Now that it's charged, I get snappy, IMA-assisted engine starts, and smoother, IMA-assisted idle.

My to-do list:

*superglue headlights' mounting ears back on
*attach headlights
*reattach horn, washer fluid tank
*attach mangled factory bumper cover using zip-ties
*get license plates
*throw out mangled factory bumper cover, fabricate new one from Al bar and sheet.
*sell the Subaru

It's not a big list. There's no good reason for me not to have it roadworthy and inspection-worthy this week. This car has too much potential for me to leave it sitting in the driveway all summer.

Daox 07-05-2009 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls (Post 113824)
It's not a big list. There's no good reason for me not to have it roadworthy and inspection-worthy this week. This car has too much potential for me to leave it sitting in the driveway all summer.

Woohoo. Lets see it back on the road! :) Nice job Robert.

SVOboy 07-05-2009 10:09 AM

Looks like it is coming along. I be jealous

RobertSmalls 09-22-2009 09:19 AM

My Salvage Vehicle Inspection will be October 1st. I'm not sure, but I don't think I get plates until a few weeks later.

I have a little work to finish up before then, then the mods will begin.

RobertSmalls 10-28-2009 10:20 PM

I drove the Insight on the road today!

I took the Insight out for a short shakedown around the neighborhood. Everything works exactly as it should, except for a coolant leak for which I have a part on order. I hope to have some welding done tomorrow, Potenzas installed and a state inspection done on Friday, and maybe I'll do some mods on Saturday before I leave for AMEC F.E. Run IV.

At one point, I turned on the blower motor to de-fog the windshield, and a minute or two later, the coolant temp had dropped from 200 to 150°F, and the car went into "not yet warmed up" mode with no auto-stop. Apparently, I won't be able to run the heater while I'm hypermiling around town. :-)

On a 2.1mi cruise, topping out at 35mph, and obeying every stop sign, I got 57.8mpg. This was ignoring the ScanGauge and factory instrumentation, and with no kill switch installed.

This car is something special.

Funny 10-29-2009 08:42 AM

Awesome. I look forward to seeing pictures of the completed car. Are you, after you rebuild it, going to put lots of mods on it, or is it going to just be a "standard" Insight?

99LeCouch 10-29-2009 09:46 AM

Nice! Where in Buffalo are you? I'll tell my fiancee to keep an eye out for your Insight later this fall.

RobertSmalls 10-30-2009 11:44 PM

I ran a few errands in the Insight after I got home from work today. Tires at 50psi provide a very stiff ride in this car. Stopped by RadioShack and got some supplies for mods I need to execute tomorrow. Fuel economy was in the low 50's, and I was unable to engage lean burn, probably due to low intake air temperatures. I can work on that, but maybe not in time for the fuel economy run.

@Funny: Thanks. I'd really like to get 70mpg for a lifetime average, including winter and short trips around town. I'd also like to record a 1000 mile tank (100mpg) without driving at speeds that I consider slow. So yes, I will need to modify it. I intend to improve the already excellent aerodynamics, give the driver more control over the IMA assist/regen, and maybe reduce weight slightly.

@LeCouch: Cheektowaga, near the Town Park. Tell her to look for the tiny Honda with a broken fender, wrinkled hood, and homemade bumper cover.

The car needs a little Bondo and a little paint.

RobertSmalls 11-02-2009 08:55 PM

Go buy an Insight.
 
My fuel economy has thus far been below my expectations. This means I have work to do.

Despite the disappointing fuel economy, I'm absolutely thrilled with the car. It drives much differently from any other car I've driven. The car has turned a few heads, which means I really have to make it look pretty before I make it my daily driver.

This car is fun around town. Its low center of mass and long wheelbase make it quick in corners. The BSFC sweet spot is at 4000RPM, 70% throttle, which means spirited acceleration won't hurt the gas mileage, provided you follow it up with wise driving, like lean burn or EOC.

IMA makes hypermiling easier, faster, and more relaxing. Instead of DWB, you have regenerative braking. Instead of cursing every time someone cuts you off or you catch a light wrong, you just regen, and recover a good percentage of your kinetic energy, storing it for later use. If you find yourself at low RPMs, but you suddenly need to accelerate, no need to downshift. Just use the IMA assist. If you're at a red light with the engine off, you don't need to watch the red light with your foot on the clutch and your hand on the ignition. Shift out of neutral, and the Insight's engine is started before you're ready to let the clutch out.

On the interstate, the car feels stable and is so much quieter than the Subaru at 75mph. 75mph corresponds to 2600RPM, and 55mph is 1900RPM. That's great for fuel economy, but it means you have very little spare power available from the throttle pedal. You have to downshift to fourth or even third to hold your speed up certain hills. Want to pass someone? You'd better plan ahead. I love that.

Lean burn gave me around +8mpg, but you can't make more than, let's say, 15HP in lean burn. I engaged lean burn down hills and while drafting tractor trailers (from at least 1.5 trailer lengths away, don't worry), but on flat ground, I could only lean burn up to 68mph. I will increase the lean burn threshold by improving my aerodynamics to reduce the engine load at any given speed, and with a hot air intake. I intend to lean burn the entire way across the state of Ohio at 74mph at Thanksgiving.

Btw, here are some FE figures:

88.5mpg at the AMEC FE Run IV
68.3mpg @ ~65mph, being careful to hold lean burn
57.8mpg @ 70-74mph, on the way home from AMEC FE Run IV.
~61mpg on the way home from work today. Some traffic.

MetroMPG 11-02-2009 11:52 PM

Robert - congrats on getting the Insight on the road ... and in time for the AMEC competition!

user removed 11-03-2009 08:04 AM

Robert. in my VX 3rd gear was good for over 100 MPH, although I never came close to that speed.

If you want great mileage on your Insight at high speeds find a nice drafting source, and keep your braking distance between the source and yourself in the right lane, so you can react if you see a large chunk of debris.

My CVT gets about 85 at a steady 40 MPH, 70 at 55, and 65 at 62 MPH. I can get much higher if there is a drafting source, easily one time I got 80 at 62 for 25 miles.

Your manual should be able to easily beat those figures, but the area you live in has much more harsh winter weather than eastern Virginia. Definitely consider a block heater if that is practical, or a garage. Move the outside temp sensor near the radiator so it will not loose idle stop in cold weather.

Great save on the Insight, it is a great car to learn energy conservation with, and you might just get to your goals at high speed, if you take advantage of potential wind breaks to reduce your energy demand.


You definitely want to block off almost all of the lower grille opening if you haven't already.
regards
Mech

RobertSmalls 11-12-2009 08:18 PM

4 Attachment(s)
I just noticed, the last picture I've posted in this thread showed the car still missing its headlights, front bumper, and a fender. Here are some updated photos.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1258072050

The photo below was taken by Wonderboy at the AMEC FE Run IV. http://i37.tinypic.com/4tvn8y.jpgIt shows my handiwork on the front bumper / grille block. The center of my bumper cover was mangled, so I cut away the middle 3' of it and screwed a piece of coroplast in its place. I screwed the license plate directly to the coroplast.

Peeking out from behind the coroplast is a Dartmouth College parking permit for '03-'04. Hopefully the previous owner took good care of the car.

RobertSmalls 11-12-2009 08:19 PM

It was 35°F this morning when I left for work today. To permit lean burn in temperatures like these, and to widen the lean-burn window during warmer weather, I installed a warm air intake.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1258072050
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1258072050

I bought a 36" length of 2" pre-heater hose for $10 at NAPA. It's basically a flexible, foil-lined paper tube. I ran it from the factory airbox, under the battery tray, over to the cat. It actually ends about 1.5" away from the cat.

This WAI is good for +20-30°F above ambient, once the cat gets hot. IAT's start to rise after about two miles, and it takes about five miles (of my ten mile commute) for IAT to reach its maximum.

It works. Despite the cold, I was able to lean burn quite a bit on the way to work, and I got 66.0mpg, which is 5mpg better than my average commute thus far. On the way home, I had IAT=75°F and lots of lean burn. I managed 59.9mpg despite bad traffic.

As an added bonus, the new intake is about 900g (2lbs) lighter than the old one. In a car that started at 1837lbs, that matters.

I need to reduce airflow through my engine bay even further. This engine barely produces enough heat to run the defroster anyway, and now I want to make sure my cat stays toasty, for the sake of emissions and intake temperature.

To do: An undertray, complete from the bumper to the firewall. The front half will be easy, but the back half has to deal with the cat and the suspension.

Red 11-23-2009 03:52 AM

Nice Job!

MetroMPG 11-25-2009 11:49 AM

Glad to see you enjoying the rescued/rebuilt Insight.

One day, maybe I'll get to drive one... So few were sold in Canada (somewhere around 600 total, if I'm not mistaken), they're a very rare sight on the roads here.

discovery 11-25-2009 04:32 PM

Nice job, i really like the way you did everything. So what is the total so far? Keep it up

Wonderboy 11-25-2009 08:47 PM

Quote:

I had IAT=75°F and lots of lean burn. I managed 59.9mpg despite bad traffic.
You definitely need to block some more off. My car isn't in its "happy" zone until at least 100F. I've found about 120 to be the sweet spot... if you drive it long enough you'll just be able to tell - you can feel/hear it.

This is a good project. Kudos to you, "Robert".

RobertSmalls 11-27-2009 05:20 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Thank you, and yes, I'm enjoying it very much. The project cost more than I thought it would, and I had spent around $5500 when I got it on the road. Since then, I've only spent about $65 on materials for mods.

I threw together an engine bay undertray out of coroplast Thanksgiving morning, before heading out to my mom's house. I didn't make an attempt to measure the aero impact of the tray, but the temperature impact was very small. Probably +5°F to intake temperature.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1259357146

The tray is held on by four bolts, and I didn't even have to drill holes in the car. I cut away plenty of coroplast for the tires and control arms to move through their full range of motion. Once I get the final front bumper cover in place, I'll see if I can do a better job of keeping air away from the wheels and out of the wheelwell.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1259357950

Lately, it's been 35°F and rainy. It takes the car 6 mi @ 60mph before it's mostly warmed up, by which point I'm more than halfway to work. I thought the tray would help, but it doesn't. So I had a crazy idea: block 100% of the radiator with a sheet of coroplast:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1259357146

Initially, I thought to set the coroplast in there, then cut a generous hole for the radiator. But then I thought, why not test it with 100% blockage? The results were surprising: it still takes forever to warm up!

At 60mph in the rain, with the radiator fully blocked, the coolant temperature quickly rose to 120°F, then slowly rose until it settled at 165-180°F like it does on particularly cold and wet days. I turned the heater control to "cold", and it eventually got up to 195°F where it belongs.

Is it supposed to take that long to warm up?


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