A question on moon discs and alloy wheels
 

I have the VX alloys on my CRX and was wondering if I could get a standard set of 13" moon discs or if I would have to go back to steelies to attach the moon discs.

You can see pictures of the rims in my garage if you're not familiar.

Thanks :turtle:

Been wondering the same kind of thing...

Well, hopefully someone will know or else I might hav to fashion up something less stylish.

Are you stuck on the manufactured metal moon discs or would you consider some DIY?

I like pretty more than non-pretty, and I don't want to drill these rims.

Well, there are only three options, clip-on, screw-on, and adhesive. And unless you want to epoxy them on or something like that, drilling your rims is the only other option.

hypermiler01 -

I agree. The "moon-eye" racing disks that the pros use are drilled. My snap-in racing disk experience is that it is a matter of when they will pop out, not if.

CarloSW2

OK... A thought I'd been entertaining (but haven't taken time to try yet) is mounting a lightweight (fiberglass, potentially) disc via the center cap of the alloy wheel... I'd seen on another site that folks sometimes use "knock out seals" (see pic; found at Home Depot and other home centers) as center caps... With the disc attached to the center cap (using a "stand-off" (metal tube) through which you put a bolt (such as a carriage bolt so the curved surface of the disc isn't broken)), you could attach the disc to the alloy wheel without having to drill into the wheel. Plus it should be relatively easy to pop off whenever necessary.

The key would be to have a well balanced disc and to have a good way to center the disc on the center cap so it doesn't wobble. Being able to snug the disk up against the wheel a bit would help also (maybe use those little stick-on "rubber feet" on the disc where it would touch the wheel).

NachtRitter -

I've had ideas along the same vein. I was thinking I could use my center-cap as a base for a donut shaped disk cover.

I was also thinking rubber feet (maybe just three for "always perfect" seating?), but I think the glue would have to be really robust, unless the foot was "wedged" in such a way that the glue didn't really matter.

CarloSW2

at work we have some nuts tht are made to be epoxied on to anything flat or smooth, they work really well and would work well for this, epoxy on some "T" nuts and bolt them on, simple secure.

Where is crexcrex when you need him???

Moons
 

I don't know if Moon Equipment Co. ever thought their wheel covers would end up with"cold-rodders",but they were intended for screw-attachment to a steel wheel.------------------- Since aluminum is prone to fatigue fracture,I would never consider drilling it.And since the wheels weight is pretty insignificant,considering the overall mass of the car,I'd say that if you're going to run Moonies,do it on steelies and be safe.If you can come up with a non-destructive means to attach them the the alloy wheel,that passes the safety test.Let us know.

Make 4 brackets per rim that "clamp" snugly around the spoke. Then screw the wheel discs into the brackets.

The only really tough part is figuring out how much space there will be between the disc and the bracket - you may have to incorporate a stand-off.

EG:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1238192846

Many ideas indeed. I will try to play around with something when I get home from bike racing this weekend. Starting another thread with a different idea now.

Could make a sort of magnet clamp if you were crafty with it, just make sure it is more then strong enough to resist the shocks of a bumpy rode.

IMHO I would not switch from alloys to steels just for moondisks. Alloys perform significantly better than steel rims. Lowers mass, lower unsprung weight all translates to better handling and vehicle performance/acceleration with less draw on the engine. Additionally its rotational mass which means you are wasting that much more energy when braking with steel rims.

MetroMPG -

I likey how you thinky. I am imagining a clamp with an out-facing screw for easy attach/disattach :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1238199143

The compromise is that the bolt sticks out, but I think it becomes worth it for the sake of practicality. Dzus fastneres might come in handy too.

CarloSW2

.

Nice - that makes the problem of the standoff (if needed) easier to deal with. Just put a "washer" spacer of the right height on the bolt beneath the wheel cover.

But how do you hold the head of the bolt in place when tightening the nut?

If you use a nyloc nut on the back, or a nylon bolt, or screw it into a block of plastic, you needn't worry about it loosening or falling out even if it doesn't get "tightened down".

MetroMPG -

Here's another rendition using Tee Nut Fasteners :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1238442159

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1238442159

As Frank suggests, maybe the screw could be nylon, or a lock washer could be used to keep it snug.

CarloSW2

.

Magnets don't work on aluminum.

Why don't you just use a wheel cover assembly and replace the plastic rim cover with a pie pan? They already use them on steelies and I've seen them on a 89 Regal where the assembly is bolted down by the lugnuts. Worse case you can leave holes for mounting the pie pan but the rest of the wheel is covered.

I have a set of the stainless steel snap-on moon discs on my metro's steel wheels (from Mike's Hubcap online store, which I recommend). Unfortunately they won't snap onto an alloy wheel I've ever seen, alloy wheels don't have the annular groove for the fingers to lock into.

I guess if I had a set of sought after VX wheels like you do, I would also be reluctant to drill and tap them for screws, but I'd do it anyway. Those are some nice lightweight factory wheels, the only way to make them better for eco-driving is to clean up their aerodynamics :thumbup:

If it were me, I'd buy a set of the spun aluminum discs with screw holes already in them (not the ones with the larger Dzus fasteners holes) I'd use the covers as templates, drill and tap my wheels for #8-32 or maybe #10-32, and buy some stainless steel button head allen screws to hold them on. I'd buy a tee handle allen wrench to keep in the glove box so I could easily check my tire pressure (tap, screws, tee handle available mail order thru McMaster-Carr). You will also need to remove the wheel weights and have the assemblies rebalenced using tape weights, since lip-style weights interfere with the wheel covers.

Don't drill holes in alloy wheels

I've drilled in mine alloy wheels made thread inside and screwed in my aluminium discs.
Here is a video of them on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1dwPQ37FlA

The wheel covers on the Regal I've seen use the lug nuts and don't snap on. That's the point. I'll get pics in the morning, it's not going anywhere with the the engine stalling under load. It was a beautiful assembly. I took it off to change the tire and it was alot better than the snap on wheel covers. I busted the snap-on covers on my Grandmother's Sienna(that and two of the lugnuts sheared their bolts as I tore them off) because the part to remove it was hidden from sight.

Allch Chcar -

Thanks in advance for the pix. I want to see it.

CarloSW2

http://www.allch-chcar.com/saved/AssemblyLite.jpg
It sits under three lugnuts so it won't work on a 4 bolt hub. A small bolt in the middle holds it in place, this bolt requires a key but it'd be easier to replace with a standard bolt for a socket or even a screwdriver.

Turns out the wire covers did use clips, but they come off with barely any strength.
http://www.allch-chcar.com/saved/Clipslite.jpg
The covers aren't moon discs, but this is Dad's beater car. He's not letting me mod anything on it.

Doesn't that look more workable for aerocovers than screwing up your wheels?

Allch Chcar -

Thanks. I have 4 lugs, so a 2 or 4 lug arrangement would work for me. I also have a center cap, soooooo, technically, I can already do this. Just gotta find the right cover.

If someone else has the same 5-lug size, they can just try to get their hands on the mount and be good to go.

CarloSW2

How about some black 13" coroplast disks? Use black zip-ties to attach them to your spokes.

I suppose you want it to be stylish, though. Your CRX looks incredibly sharp with the VX wheels. hmm...

There's an idea. Just go with clear covers. Frequent cleaning required though.

So, Ben, whatcha gonna do?

My only fear with strapping through the spokes is that brake calipers frequently come very close to the inside of the wheel. If the wheel or bearing flexes at all in a hard turn, there goes your cover, and if you used metal strapping, you might damage something too. But if you are absolutely sure you have clearance, it is a great idea.

http://www.boltproducts.com/images/tubedv.gif

If you have room to strap through the spokes, I would think about using these. You can get them from McMaster-Carr or various other places. I used a bag of them to join 2 umbrella strollers into a double stroller. Make sure to size them so they snugly fit around the wheel spoke. Then if you ever want to remove them, the wheels will not be all scratched up. Use a full threaded bolt, and put the head of the bolt on the side with the sharp bend. Use a bolt long enough to reach past the outside of your wheel cover. Put the clamp around the spoke, and tighten a nut on it to get the clamp down good and tight over the spoke. Then drill a hole in the wheel cover in the appropriate place. You should have at least 3 holes. Another way to go about it would be to use a short bolt and instead of a nut, use a nut coupling. Then instead of having protruding studs with nuts, you could attach the wheel cover with more aero button head screws.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1238981705

If there is no room to safely attach through spokes, someone from a thread long ago suggested a good idea. Get some lugnuts that are solid on the ends, and drill and tap the ends for bolts. Then drill your wheel covers appropriately. You can use button head bolts to be more aero. Lugnuts are about $1 apiece at the parts store, or you could probably scrounge a used set from the junkyard for almost nothing.

wagonman76 -

Thanks for the detail tip. I am going to spend additional time staring at my disk brake/wheel relationship.

CarloSW2

SVOboy, did you settle on a solution?

As pointed out, it's not a question of "if" a snap-on wheel cover will come off, but when.

I have 16" full-moon discs (push-on) on my '06 Civic and just lost one somewhere between Albany and New Milford Pennsylvania ... a 180 mile stretch.

It's pretty disappointing as I've had these less than a year. So, do I buy a replacement for $25-30 ... or just give up on these and try something else.

I'd like to get a set of rear wheel skirts and then I'd only need two discs for the front wheels ... but I'm not seeing well made skirts available anywhere and I'm just not able to hobble something together to my satisfaction.

I'd go the alloy route if I could find something reasonably priced and very aerodynamic.

thinking about this... couldn't you have "aftermarket" longer studs installed, like those someone would use for thicker aftermarket wheels or wheel spacers. Put your lugs on like normal, then use the remaining stud sticking out as standoffs to bolt on your disc?

That would work, but replacing 16-20 studs is a pain to do. If you only did 2 on each wheel (for a 4 stud hub, at least), then you could do the opposite studs, and save some work.

I like the center cap system on that Regal. I don't think I'd trust a normal center cap that isn't bolted on like that one though.

I attached my second edition moon discs with 4 zip ties aroud wheel spokes. I got aluminiun wheels so old ones didint fit anymore. New glasfibre discs are 300g each lighter. New disks are in balance in hinger speeds also. I will update my results if those will fall off. At the moment I think those are more aerodynamic than the previous version. Pictures will follow also.

Hi!
I was thinking about clean smooth disc cover.
Ideal is buy plastic cover with classic steel ring mounting like on the 1 picture.

Because i have any size than the clean plastic cover ( 14' vs 13' is shame for me :-() i thinking about buy some cheaper plastic cover with holes.
http://www.anglia-trading.cz/bmz_cac...ge.250x250.jpgThat holes will be covered with textile universal tape.

Where is that plastic cover from??

winkosmosis -

I followed the JPG here :

Anglia-Trading.cz - tuning, autodoplňky & nářadÃ*

Can't find an english-language option, though, :( .

CarloSW2