Short Intro, Longer Ranger
 

I recently purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger Supercab 4x2. It has the 2.5 liter 4 and a 5-speed manual transmission. I previously coaxed 30 mpg from a friend's unmodified '96 base model (zero options, no radio, AC, nothing!) Ranger, so I'm hoping to mod my heavier, more optioned truck to reliably get at least 30 mpg.

As it is, the truck has a throttle glitch that revs the engine intermittently without any pedal input (It ran flawlessly for the duration of the test drive, of course!) and doubtless contributes to the disappointing 17.56 mpg I observed on its first tank. I'll get that sorted this coming week, but I'm also planning some aero mods, including wheels, body, and an aero cap. I already picked up a donor cap: a windowless unit from a longbed Chevy S-10 (the interstate retrieval of which likely hurt that first mpg count as well, come to think of it). It's off the truck right now for planning and to haul off the remains of all the trees I lost in this past week's nor'easter, but I'm actively sketching and brainstorming how to reconfigure it for my new ride. I've seen some great ideas on this site, and I'm looking forward to dipping deeper into the collective knowledge here.

30 should be achievable. But higher speeds in trucks eat power in a big way. On your highway trip, how fast were you going?

Oh, and welcome!

Creepy...I'm collecting the same truck - other than the supercab - tomorrow, to add to my fleet...I'll be watching your thread closely! :)

Over the course of this weekend’s wood-hauling adventures, I spent some more time under the truck and realized the rear of frame is worse than I originally thought. I knew it needed repair, but I’m bumping that up to “ASAP” from “later this spring” as previously planned. Not the worst thing: basically every Ranger in the northeast has current or future frame rust, and there are readily available repair sections and kits. This will mean a slight delay on bed & body mods, but I’m still working on sourcing other parts.

@elhigh: l prefer secondary two-lane highways, which puts me around 55 mph. When time and circumstances require divided highway travel, I keep it around 65. The four cylinder truck gets pretty noisy when you reach 70 or so, so it’s not a vehicle that can creep up in speed too far without the driver noticing. This truck has no tachometer, but I’ve already ordered a Scangauge II and will keep an eye out for a tach cluster during my trips to the Pick n’ Pull.

Rangers are plucky little things. When I worked auto parts, we had the "Danger Ranger", a commercial-spec 2wd auto, single cab four banger, for delivering to shops. I snuck my SGII in there a couple of times and ran 20-21mpg running around town. I got to kinda liking these trucks. It's all the truck most folks actually need.

Seconded on the busy thrum of highway speeds. I've driven mine all the way from TN to MN and it handled it like a champ, but dang if the noise doesn't get to you.

45 mph on back roads is a whole 'nother story. It's deep, deep in the truck's butter zone. Utterly comfortable, and if the ride feels a little jiggly jouncy why about 750 pounds of split red oak can put that to rest, can't it? Sure it can.

With the Scanguage if you never find a tacho for your Ranger it won't matter, the SG can display that for you.

I had a regular cab 1998 Ranger and with no mods and got 35 mpg just driving 60 mph.

My 1997 Ranger just died at 297k miles. 2.3l Lima with a 5-speed stick. Great truck that got as good as 30mpg at one time with very minor mods and a 3:73 rear end. Was still averaging 26 when I had to put to rest. I liked it so much that I bought a 2003 Ranger XL 2.3 Duratech 5 speed. No mods yet and 28MPG on the way home from the dealer. I did find out that deer are not very good for aerodynamics. First mods......body work.

@hat man: did your ‘97 have 14 or 15 inch wheels? I’ve wondered what final drive would be best. It currently has the original size 225/70R15 on steel wheels with 4:10 open diff which I’m replacing with another of the same, because I got a much less rusty one with lower miles for short money. I’ll probably stick with that ratio (though I’d LOVE a limited-slip rear!), between the taller tires, working loads, and hilly areas it sees. I plan on a slight change in tire size, switching to 215/70R16 LRR tires on Steelies with moon discs. There are far more low rolling resistance tire choices in 16” vs. 15” sizes, and that size is a mere 4/10th of an inch taller than OE. I’ll get a pair for the rear for starters. The fronts will have to wait until i save up some more and also find out how well it can be aligned in its present condition.