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Simple piston ring installation?
My Suzuki Swift head repair had problems. Apparent oil starvation to some cam bearings costing the bearings and the cam. So now the head's off again, and I've been reading that the rings are likely to start leaking worse after the head's been done.
On another forum was a suggestion to replace rings without even touching the main caps or crankshaft. Just remove the pistons. But they also talked about touching up the cylinders with a ball hone. My question is, can you do this while protecting the rest of the engine from the honing residue, and if so, what would be the steps to protect it? Thanx |
. . . moan . . .
Just got back from the mechanic...... seems the head's needing to be replaced, too. Will I ever get to drive my gnat again? :( :confused: :( :confused:
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Look at the cylinder bores; if there's a big ridge then take it down to fix; if the cyls look real nice the rings are probably OK too.
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I followed your thread on the cylinder head overhaul. I'm beginning to have serious doubts about your mechanic. First, the cracked thermostat housing, now seized bearings, ruined cam, and the head needs to be replaced BEFORE IT EVER LEFT THE SHOP????? And he rebuilt the head??? :eek:
My advice is to get your car away from him before he does anymore damage. |
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But anyway, yes it is possible to do an in frame ring job. To do it (almost) properly, you need to check for bore diameter, bore out of round, bore taper and cylinder ridge. All but ridge could be bypassed in a low buck ring job, because you need to remove any ridge to get the piston in & out. Before honing, stuff the bores below the piston travel with rags. Use ATF to lube the hone. After honing, wipe the cylinders with white paper towels soaked in ATF, frequently replaced, until the paper towels come out clean after wiping.
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^Yes, it is up to the mechanic to ensure that things like oil passages are clear.
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Well, I guess I should have mentioned - they ARE saying they'll "make it right". They think the machine shop should provide them with a replacement head that's in good shape - fresh valve job, etc. Then they're also saying they'll put everything back together, "eating" their extra labor if the machine shop won't cover it - which they think it should.
They tell me the machine shop told them they found the cam was bent, but the mechanic says that had to have happened AFTER they'd installed it, because they turned it between the torquing of each bearing cap, or something. And then they were also able to adjust the valves, which wouldn't have been the case had the cam already been bent. I guess the machine shop is also saying they found no evidence of a blocked oil passage in the head, either. I'm not a mechanic, so I don't know. :confused: :confused: :confused: |
It's good to see they are doing right by you. I have to admit, it got my hackles up.
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