Stranger Ranger Mods
 

Just now kind of catching up with some of the projects from the last year. In another thread I showed the wheel covers on my 2001 Ranger. This thread will show some of the other modes I've done. I started with making an aerocap. Used to do a little electrical work so I know how to bend conduit somewhat. Used the template to find the basic shape.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-j...template-2.jpg


Frame work.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-j...-framework.jpg

It's difficult to see but I attached the conduit to 2x4's. Drilled holes into the wood with paddle bits, placed the ends of the conduit into the holes, and used tek screws to go through the conduit and into the wood.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-j...arter-view.jpg

I used coroplast over 1/2 inch conduit for the shell. I wanted to leave the third brake light visible so I lowered the top of the shell about 4 inches.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-j...-side-view.jpg

Attached the coroplast with about a hundred little 4 inch wire ties. Attached the shell to the truck using four four inch c-clamps from Harbor Freight. Rear view.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-j...-rear-view.jpg

Not really sure that the shell helped much. I tried a roll down test on a short hill with and without the shell mounted but there was too much traffic to get good data. That was last year(2018) and I removed the shell in Sept. and have never put it back on yet. Mainly because I left the truck sitting for six months as it had a problem I didn't want to mess with all summer. Finally fixed it so I'll need to get back to testing and mods.

Other mods include removing all the mud flaps, using a partial coroplast radiator block, and covering the fog light holes with fiberglass.
JJ

Clever thread title. :)

The transition from the cab to the bed cover is important, your cover while I am sure is much better than no cover is at a significant disadvantage due to the abrupt transition from rectangular to circular directly after the bed. If you re-work it at all, i would suggest trying to make the initial pieces right behind the cab basically come up almost vertical off the bed sides instead of initially coming in before curving up. Then as you go back you can start to lay them down more as you go.

Looks good except for those cab corners not being paid attention to and integrated into the profile and section.

Maybe there are plans to change the cab it's self?

Put little Kammbacks on the corners. Easy fab, boxed cavities and it preserves the sightlines.

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I actually had the cab transition corners all the way up in my first rendition but wasn't happy with the way everything was laying out behind it and as I said I wanted the third brake light visible. I like the add-on idea. Shouldn't take too long for that.
JJ

Here's one I was attempting for a '97 Ranger step-side. I don't drive that truck anymore but I still have the frame. I think I'll try and modify it to fit my 2003 fleet-side. Pictures start on page 5.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...e-20945-6.html

I stumbled across this today, shows an odd attempt at treating rear corners.

Do not follow this example as I think it leaves a lot on the table, but better than nothing.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/ec...241367/index2/
http://dannix.net/sites/default/file...l-boattail.jpg

From that same thread, I think the below if can work on a boxy body can work on a boxy cab.

by mannydantyla
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/ec...241367/index3/
http://dannix.net/sites/default/file...dimensions.jpg
http://dannix.net/sites/default/file...kee-mockup.jpg

EDIT:
Good pick up truck cab thread

flow separation:Tiger Woods meets Cinderella,or 5-seconds to a perfect roofline
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ds-2104-2.html

Nice work! I like its aerodynamic design.