Suggestions on an impact wrench
 

So, I've started work on my 2004 Civic I picked up about a month ago. So far I've run into two bolts I can't get out with my current cheapo harbor freight electric impact wrench (which actually works pretty well normally). So, I'm looking for something with a bit more torque. I don't use it a TON, so I'd like to keep the cost down. But, it needs to have the power to take big bolts out like crankshaft bolts, subframe bolts, etc.

I did some quick searching this morning on amazon and I found one that seems like it has a good amount more torque than my electric, and the price is still quite reasonable. I'm looking at the Ingersol Rand 231C.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRM3I?colid=2KFOFG3WNRMXH&coliid=I12J81950O7W 02&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

I don't care weather its electric or pneumatic. At this point I'm more likely to go with whatever is more economical. I don't use it that much and I do take care of my stuff.

You may need to just get a half inch breaker bar and pipe.
A 1/2 inch impact cant remove all large bolts such as cylinder head and main bolts unless its a 3/4 drive.
I have the same impact gun, it cant remove all stuck nuts and bolts or head bolts even with 120psi driving it.

1. I hope it's got penetrating oil on it right now, and you give it a spritz every time you go near it.
2. Go pneumatic. Then you never have to wonder if the battery's still any good.

My impact gun came as part of a set that came with the compressor 13 years ago. The battery drill I bought at the same time got thrown out years ago. I rarely need the air tools, but they still work just fine.

I'm definitely not looking for a cordless impact, corded is what I got now and it works pretty good. Looking at specs, pneumatic definitely looks to have more power, and it looks to cost less too.

I tried penetrating oil on the control arm bolts. I also hit it with a mapp gas torch. However, I got a new torch tip recently (borrowed old one, can't remember to who) and it doesn't seem to be able to get the metal cherry red, so I picked up a different one yesterday day to give that a shot.

The other bolt I can't get out is the crankshaft bolt. I needed to borrow an impact from a buddy last time (Dewalt corded electric) to get it off and it barely was able to. I'm not about to heat that one up, and I did soak it in oil and it was so tight that the oil never even penetrated behind the washer let alone get to any threads.

I had to put a breaker bar on my crankshaft pulley bolt along with about 4ft of pipe, and even then I had to jump on the end of it. The force required to break it loose moved my car despite being in 1st gear with the parking brake on tight. It sounded like an explosion when it finally let loose.

I'd go with a breaker bar and extension pipe if needed.

Remember don't heat any steel over 400'F unless you want to change it's temper or heat treat properties.
Just don't heat the tie rod bolt where it attaches to the spindle or hub.

For example my aunt had the tie rods on her car replaced, it was rusty and seized to the hub so the funky mechanic at the local shop heated the tie rod bolt where it attached to the hub and it snapped off while she was driving a few months later. Lucky for her she was driving up a steep hill so her car just stopped when the tie rod broke loose and stuffed the wheel up inside the wheel well.
Another example, camaro owner back yard mechanics have burned the bushings out of the front lower control arms with a torch only to have the control arm snap off at the edge of the heat effected zone where the bushing was burned out of.

I don't think you will find an inexpensive impact that will remove the crankshaft bolt. You'll be better off investing in a large 1/2" breaker bar.

I assume you already have the adapter tool for holding the crank pulley in place?

Here's what it took to loosen that bolt on my car:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-da...reaker-bar.jpg

1/2" ratchet with the adapter lodged into the ground with a pipe. 36" long 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater bar. The jackstand is there to support the breaker bar since I needed several extensions to get it outside the fenderwell.

Even with this, it took most of my rather considerable bulk to break it free. And like redpoint5, it made a racket when it let go. I thought I'd snapped off the bolt in the crankshaft.

1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench

This is what I use for my heavy work 700 ft/lb max torque and under $100.00.
I haven't failed to remove axle nuts or anything I have tried if I used 1/2' impact sockets and proper impact adapters. The closer to the work with as few joints as possible and I'm not talking Mary Jane.

Step 1.

Whack the bolt head a few times with a hammer. This helps break the corrosion bond and reduce the torque needed to get the bolt loose.

My brother lost the timing belt on his Integra, but did not bend any valves, passed a pressure test. We borrowed my buddies Snap on Impact and it would not touch it. A breaker bar and piece of pipe did the job. the break off torque was at least 3 times the spec.

I once used the weight of the car to break a badly rusted rear axle bolt loose on a Z car.
Long pry bar between the lugs and axle flange, six point impact socket with, breaker bar and pipe. One sticking out the back, the other out the front, lower car lift down almost until that corner started to come up off the lift arm!!!!!

It finally popped and no I did not forget to unstake the nut.

regards
mech