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Truck Aero, Bed cover DIY tonneau?
I'm thinking of making my own bed cover for my truck, has anyone done any DIY stuff thats easy to do using stuff fom say, Home Depot?
Would a tonneau (bed cover) help more than hurt or should I go a different direction with it? I've had an idea for a simple style of bed cover where it sits flush with the top of the bed, faily light and hundreds of dollers LESS than a fiberglass tonneau. hinges in the middle to open half of the bed.. Or maybe a tri fold setup? quick release to pull it off quickly and simply fold it up to use the bed.. :confused: I've also had an idea since seeing the Areo Camper shells that Bondo makes.. I've also wondered if adding a slight lip off the back of a flat bed cover helps or hurts aero? like this.. http://www.gaylordslids.com/images/i...dge_silver.jpg I'm itchin to get my FE up because I cant seem to break away from 29.5mpg lately.. :mad: I dont want a soft cover tho.. any suggestions or links to DIY sites? |
If that truck bed is 4' X 8', you could use a 1" thick 4' X 8' sheet of extruded polystyrene, aka Styrofoam, from Home Depot, etc.. You could fiberglass both sides of it, for a very stiff but light panel. Or, with proper adhesive, you could skin it with upper and lower sheets of 2mm thick Coroplast or other suitable sheet plastic. This becomes a sandwich panel of incredible strength and stiffness. Styrofoam is nice to work with, as it sands and sculpts easily.
You want stiffness, lest the panel flop around in turbulence at highway speed. With stressed-skin panels like this, when you double the thickness between load-bearing skins, you get an eight-fold increase in stiffness, which increases with the cube of the thickness between flanges. To keep prying eyes out, you probably don't want the panel to be transparent or even opaque. If that's not a problem, visit a greenhouse supply store, and pick of a sheet of duo-pane polycarbonate, which is extruded and just like Coroplast, but transparent and virtually impact-proof. I doubt that lip does much if anything aerodynamically, but looks nice and probably sells a lot of those panels. |
The best shape is definately going to be a tear drop. Per dollar spent, I think you would see the biggest effect.
Phil Knox's Truck http://www.evworld.com/images/pknox_toyota.jpg Simple, Quality: 1/2" Foam Board, Fiberglass, Epoxy Resin composite construction, faceted sides Simple, Cheap: Lightweight Tubular Skeleton Coroplast skin Duct Tape faceted sides If you just want a normal tonneau, you could buy a bunch of aluminum siding and pop-rivet yourself one by forming ribs w/ flanges attached to skins. Cheap, easy, and unique... - LostCause |
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Polyester resin is much cheaper than epoxy, and would be fine for this application as long as it's chemically compatible with the foam. Check first. Most fiberglass boats are made with this stuff, and have been sitting in the weather for decades, apparently without ill effects. Any marine hardware store or hobby shop should have it. To get the smoothest surface, do the fiberglass layup on a plexiglass sheet, then while still wet, lay the foam sheet onto that, then vacuum bag it down tight until the resin sets up. When it comes off, it'll be as smooth as the plexiglass. Then do the opposite side of the sandwich panel in the same way. Vinylester resin is cheaper than epoxy, but more expensive than polyester resin. Where strength is a major factor, vinylester resin has about the same strength as epoxy, unless heat cured in an autoclave, where epoxy is the best. |
Hi All,
Epoxy is used because Polyester is incompatible with Styrofoam. This started with surf boards. Fiberglass boats tend to use PVC foam, so either skin material can be used. Epoxy resists blistering better than polyester skin. A gallon of epoxy resin for laminating was like $75 the last time I was buying any. I imagine its twice that now. I prefer Epoxy because of the better cure one can get in the home shop situation. There are two main brands for this West Systems, and System III. System III is available at Wood Craft stores. West Systems is available at many boat maintenance shops. The PVC foam is not cheap either. The main trade name of the PVC foam is Divinycell (spelling?), and a few others I forget. In Europe they may use Rohacell (its polyamidimid I believe), but its very expensive here, and probably more so now. DOW makes rigid Styrofoam brand board (its blue) which is good for composite construction. The pink insulation board stuff has been "ruggedized" so it wont break as easy itself, but this greatly decreases the compressive strength (so the board can bend), which is critical for stressed skin construction. Boats core materials can also be aluminum or polypropylene honeycomb, or edge grain balsa wood. Or just simply marine grade plywood. Remeber, boats can be allot heavier than cars. The PP Core has been used in land transportation applications. There is a company in Germany that makes a whole travel trailer, the kind that can be towed by cars, out of PP stressed skin construction, with about a 1 inch thick core. The brand name of this material is NIDA Core, and they are in Florida. This PP core has Polyester film stretched tight and bonded to the PP honeycomb, and the polyester has been scrimmed (made fibrous) on the outside for the glue to stick to. I have some (much too thick for car stuff) here and use it for vibration isolating platforms. PP being a polyolefin does not bond by gluing readily. NIDA Core has figured out how to do the bonding to the polyester film (probably thermally). Another good core material, I forgot the name, for this stuff would be the PC (Polycarbonate) tetrahedral dimpled stuff. Its amazing too, and allot cheaper, but does not have the compressive strength of honey comb. But , I would think it would be very servicable for aero feature parts. PC can be glued directly. So, there is no need for the Polyester film and scrim, like with PP. It may not be available in thin enough core for this tho. Where the NIDA core can be made to order in its thickness. Remember most of these materials are plastics, which can have tremendously variable modulus' with temperature. I made a sample with PVC foam, and Polyester fiberglass skins once, that was about 1 inch thick, 2 inches wide, and 9 inches long. At room temperature one could flex this about 1/8 inch over its length. At 10 F (I took it for a walk for an hour) the sample became very very rigid, and I could not feel any deflection at all hard as I tried to bend it. |
Pick ups are ment to carry 4X8 plywood so most beds are over that size at least side wise and the six foot beds are ment to carry them with the tailgate open.
I had been planing to make one out of two pieces of 1/4 inch chip board (a 4 and a 2 foot sections for the 6 foot bed) and maybe cover that with some waterproofing finish or covering. using 1x4 cross pieces (ribs) under it to give it the stiffness that it needs and cut that so it was slighted domed in the center so the rain would run off. but with the dome I could not think of any way to hinge it so I was just going to make it in one piece but you could make it any way you wanted. It was to be cheap so I could try different things and not stress the $$$. Later if i liked one enough I might think about fiberglass. Now though I think I going to do a full aero cap instead using a different approach but still cheap so I can see what works and what doesn't. |
My beds 60"(5") X 76"(6'4")
I'm going to mock something up out of 1/8" thick board thats 4x8, and I've thought about making it so it hinges in the center for a half section.. Make it quick release and you can pop it off and fold it up and off to the side if I need to use the bed for larger objects.. Maybe even a trifold.. ? maybe not.. I'll use the 4x8's cut to size to they cover half of the bed, then frame the underside with 2x1's, Liquid nails wood adhesive and finish nails from the top into the frames.. 2 hinges in the middle.. I just need to figure out a setup for a quick release, I'm thinking a bungie cord type deal with some brackets.. And so the flimsey 1/8" panel doesnt bow of flex because its whats on the topside of the bed, i'll jse L brackets placed so far that go on the wooden frame to the top of the bed.. Then use some campershell stick on foam to seal it up.. The only thing is that my tailgate is smooth and I have the handle flipped to the inside.. Then maybe hit it up with some marine epoxy paint to weatherproof it? And if I'm feeling squirley I'll cover the top with some sort of material to hide the hinging point.. So far I'm about 35 bucks into it.. more to come.. I'm just going to make a flat one for simplicity and then use some of that round foam stuff used to insolate water pipes and shove it inbetween the bed and cab to kill that air section off :) Nobody attached that lip idea, help or hurt? as for making an Areo shell, homedepot has some sweet fiberglass sheets of 4x6 thats very VERY flexable.. I'd frame up an areo setup and cover it with that stuff in a heartbeat! Too rich fo rme right now tho.. |
I can only speak intuitively on this, but I think the lip would hurt. Personally, I'd radius the edge.
Interesting set-up you've got going there. The price is right. :) Hopefully you could do some coastdown tests. I'd like to find out the reduction in drag you achieve. I don't know of anyone who's tested them before. - LostCause |
I had some 1/8 inch panels that I had for something or other and they would warp and get wavy with just the hint of moisture (and this was inside my barn!). My 1/4 inch chip boards (not sure if that's their technical name) seem to handle the wet pretty good without any warping.
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Home Depot bedcover
Home Depot carries something called R-MAX,polyisocyanurate rigid insulation board,in 4 by 8 sheets,in thicknesses up to 3/4-inch.The board is like polyurethane,and is compatible with polyester resin,available in the paint department at Home Depot.
You can drape the bed of the truck with 1-mil poly painters dropcloth,and mockup the bedcover directly on the truck,cutting the foam with a utility knife,join the sections with masking tape,while using temporary supports underneath,then do wet layups until you've built-up enough glass to remove,and flip the unit for glassing the underside. West System's epoxy is best,but Bondo's polyester will do .This is how I created my bedcover.Just don't let goats climb up on top of it! Whatever you do,give yourself some vision to the rear and to the passenger side for safe backing,when leaving a parallel parking spot.With respect to the tailgate mounted rear spoiler,it is there to remind owners to keep the tailgate up for better economy.It is virtually useless aerodynamically and is more CRAFTSMAN-SERIES NASCAR hey-look-at me-I'm-a -high-performance-wannabe. Final note,if you can build some compound curvature into your shell it will be even stronger,as it will become a geodesic structure with strength approaching that of an eggshell.Also better aerodynamically.Nature hates straight lines and right angles! |
3 Attachment(s)
Heres my perposed mockup..
I have also been thinking of making this so it bows upward a bit against the cab.. what do you think of this? I could still make it hinge in the middle, mite be a fun challenge :) |
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And as Brett has shown, it doesn't have to hinder access to the bed, when needed. But I don't want to discourage you: if the full aeroshell is not in the cards financially, then by all means start with the custom budget tonneau! I have a feeling you'll be thinking more and more about the full aeroshell before the end of the summer :) |
I've been looking and looking for a cheap fiberglass campershell
to hack up to make one, but i wont pay more than 150 for one.. I've been all over craigslist and the papers.. I'd definatly make an areo shell in a heartbeat.. |
It does help, I'd say about +10%!
Mine cost me about $100 but it took some doing... My first issues were weight and bed access, only a made-for-p'up truck cover would help relieve these issues. Even if costlier it's ready made, or so I thought. Then the biggest two things are one water pooling or puddling when it rains... It's not so bad until you got a 5 gallon puddle in the center of that thing :p And aerodynamic down force behind the cab. You see, as you drive there is a STRONG down force of wind in the rear. I was amazed, so be prepared to play but a few hours and some materials gtg (I didn't have to pay for the plexiglass thou), the only other option is a decent cover cost like 4-5-600.... I heard you don't want to spend that much (neither did I) but know that a ready-made $200 cover will not do it, not by itself. At least that's what I learned. You could, however, try some this ready-to-go cheapness: http://www.jcwhitney.com/Soft-Tonnea...Ns=p_MIN_PRICE (First one 65 bucks or so) Not sure how it will act once you start driving, it also might require reinforcement... As for it getting rained in, first wait and see... Then maybe drill a tiny hole in center, pin hole? But I can not say if this will compromise the material now... This would have been my cover of choice except I have a toolbox. So I ordered my Tarpeez from here (but keep reading): http://www.supertruckusa.com/product...z&submit=Go%21 And this is the OEM's site: http://www.tarpeez.com/ Unfortunately the OEM pictures do an injustice, once you go driving the wind pulls that cover right down to almost bed level so I had to reinforce mine from below (it does fine now). The pics and a bit better description are towards the bottom of this: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1109 Other notes: The DOWN force is strongest near the tailgate, almost non-existent near the cab. Well, at least on mine it was (club cab). |
I started building it yesterday..
heres what I did.. Heres my start.. Heres what the sheet of 1/8" panel I'm using.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040026.jpg mockup to get the spacing just right.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040024.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040023.jpg One half of the top cut and trial fitted just to see how it'll work.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040027.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040028.jpg I got my measurments and got the 2x1's cut... Today all I did was get the frame cut, predrilled and screwed together. I'll glue these together later.. I pre drilled everything and used fine threaded drywall screws (what I had) http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040029.jpg the two frames are built, just sat in place. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040032.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040030.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040033.jpg Now the hinge part... If I do them like this, I can swing it open and it'll stay open at an angle.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040034.jpg heres how the open position would look http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040037.jpg But I'm concerned about stregnth and if the wind hits it and messes it up.. But if I flip the hinge so its sandwhiched between the 2x1's, it'll flip completly over onto itself and lay flat when opened.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040035.jpg now picture that right frame attached to the right side of the hinge, now open it.. this shows it far more open than it would be if it was attached tho.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040038.jpg I like the hinge on top and it would be easy to make it look flush and clean. but at the same time I dont like that cover being able to just hang like that.. And the other way with the hinge sandwhiched between the panels being able to swing open and touch the other panel flat the hinge spine sticks out a little. blah.. I'll figure it out, shoot some ideas if ya got em, im sure theres some sort of hinge out that would would work killer for this, just haven't seen it or know about it yet.. Todays progress... Screwed and glued.. I added 1 additional center brace per panel for a little extra stregnth.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040042.jpg I sat it into position and taped it in place so that the adhesive would dry and the frames stay true.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040043.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040045.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040044.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040046.jpg Once I add the upper panels and glue those in place and get em with finish nails, I'll fiberglass it with about 3-4 layers on top, then let that setup.. Then I'll flip it over and route down those underframes to shed weight and lay a few layers of glass over that and we should be solid.. About the only thing I need to figure out is how to seal up the crack in the hinge section to keep water/dirt out.. |
frames are all dry and pretty darn solid! :)
ok, I couldn't leave crap alone.. just before Easter dinner I was the guy in the neighborhood making all sorts of noise heres the metal lips that will also support the outter edge of the wood to be fiberglassed around.. This is why I recessed the wood slightly to make up for the thickness of the L brackets.. I had this all worked out in my head before I bought the brackets.. so far I've gotten extremly lucky with everything and taking it slow.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040053.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040056.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040054.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040055.jpg This should make a little more sence now.. ;) yes, they'll get a trim http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040057.jpg yes, they will be trimmed :) |
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So here we have a stock (current gen) Taco. And you'll notice that the angle between the top of the cab to the top of the tailgate is already 12.5 degrees, quite the optimal angle already. No need for alteration there! http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...eyer/taco1.jpg So here's a hypothetical short bed Taco (don't know if they actually have beds this short.) The angle has changed from 12.5 degrees to 14.3 degrees, too steep for airflow to remain "attached." Now, adding a little lip to the top of the tailgate will help to get that angle back to 12.5 degrees. http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...eyer/taco2.jpg This is the same sort of idea that's behind the decklid extensions on Bonneville top-speed racers. http://images.worldcarfans.com/artic...05.Mini18L.jpg |
Last of the day progress.. :)
Liquid nails FTW!!!! http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040068.jpg Then I used a peunmatic finish nailer to get things down good and tight.. Now that its solid, I sealed everything up with the excess liquid nails and smoothed it out... http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040073.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040074.jpg I added some weight to let it setup for a few hours.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040085.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040086.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040087.jpg after that I checked everything out.. so good so far :) http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040078.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040079.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040077.jpg Tomorrow I'll tackel the back half... then its fiberglass time :) |
Nice progress. Watching with interest.
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man, I'm a dumbass...
I had the larger panel just sitting on the back of the truck and thought I'd just drive down the street to home depot because its only a block away and a 30mph zone tops.. at exactly 12mph, the fukker flew off like a styrofoam cup LOL No real damage but man.. its a dead calm day and I was just cruizing.. No speed bumps or anything.. it mared up one section where it still needs to be trimmed anyways.. (top edge) So no biggie.. I'm just glad nobody was behind me.. I wasn't using my head on this one.. Just shows ya how super light is it so far! check it.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040095.jpg |
Wow! Great pictures, progress looks good so far, hoping to see the final product soon!
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More progress..
seems as tho I run out of daylight and steam soon thereafter.. Maybe I'm BiSolar ;) I got the front panel shaved down to fit the sides/edges of the bed.. I love this 1/8" panel, it cuts with a razor blade.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040097.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040098.jpg I had to cut the front edge of the bedliner off because it was causing it to ride up some.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040099.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040101.jpg I have everything duct taped into place so ti doesnt move and used painters tape to make sure I dont glue anything onto the bed :) I cut roughly for the rear panel.. Once its all dry, I'll trim it some other time like I did the front panel.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040104.jpg I roughed it up for proper adhesive promotion http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040105.jpg Then I whipped my cocker out and got busy shooting a bead.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040107.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040108.jpg before the adhesive I taped spacers to mock the space needed for the hinges.. I also used painters tape to ensure the glue wouldn't adhere to the other panel.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040109.jpg I maneuvered it into place and then hit it with my finish nailer to keep it in place.. got it all squared away and sat some weight on it.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040110.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040111.jpg underside view.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040113.jpg sence I was out of duct tape that I used as my 3rd and fouth hands.. I got the grey and hit the shirts with it because the tapes not happy.. a little less noticable ;) http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040115.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040116.jpg thats it for now.. I do want to say this.. Liquid nails sucks.. Good thing I'm going to lay glass on this or I wouldn;t trust the stuff.. I ended up using some PL brand polyurethanepremium construction adhesive and this stuffs MONSTER!!!! definatly the way to go on wood.. thats all I have for now.. |
I may have missed this, but do you have any plans to go for a full, phil knox style aero cap?
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I couldn't find a campershell in the 150 of less range to do it or else thats what you'd be seing pictures of..
If this cover turns out sweet, I could rock it till I found a shell and sell this one.. Someone mite like it? An areo shell would be trick.. Definatly a sweet setup, but I'd do something more along the lines of what Bondo has done with his F150 cap.. More versitility with the large hatchback design that opens.. |
No progress today, super windy and I was just burnt out on it..
for those who are keeping tabs. |
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Before: http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/phot...37196_5513.jpg After: http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/phot...76504_5976.jpg Windy day and I left my attempt at a topper sitting on my truck, not fastened down, waiting for some geometry changes. Found it half a block away, caught by a street sign/bush. Too light for its own good. And I can concur with 8307c4 on the downforce at highway speeds. As tight as I've gotten my shrinkwrap, it still deforms quite a bit. The geometry was incorrect on my last topper revision, so flow was not attached. This did, however, make for an interesting medium for flow visualization. I could see the deformation "bubble" as the airflow off my cab smashes down about 1 foot before my tailgate. Has anyone else worked with films/sheeting like mine before? Am I better off to go back to my first design (polystyrene), and find a way to add a window? First design: http://photos-481.ll.facebook.com/ph...33727_3414.jpg |
Wholy crap dude, did that fly around a stop sign? LOL
man, I totally feel better now ;) j/k XLT - v6, right? I dig the insulation setup your rocking for the shell now, ****, I wish I would have thought of that because I got one hell of a hookup for fiberglass cloth nowand this stuff the gooooood shieeeeet! I've got enough to do at least 3 layers and I can go back for more.. Dam.. where were you a week ago! lol $30 bucks wasn't bad, marine shop homie hookup FTW!!!! http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040127.jpg |
More progress..
I got the first layer on the larger panel.. windy as hell after about 20 minutes into it, it figures.. I was pickin leaves out of the dam resin.. lol http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040128.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040129.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040130.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040131.jpg then I setup the bed of the truck so I could slide it in and let it setup so it doesn't warp. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040133.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040134.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040135.jpg |
Looks good so far!
Man I wish I worked that fast, my mods took forever by comparison. :o |
I'm recentally single after 4 years.. long distance, no workie ;)
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Looking good! I imagined building of those when i first got my truck. But I was too lazy and was without good tools, so I bought a tonneau instead. Can't wait to see the final results.
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I went out and checked, the resin is good and cured...
One thing that sucks tho, I left it on the back of my truck so it drys right and wont warp.. well, it was really windy last night and now I have all these little leaves and flowers in the resin.. Looks *****in! lol http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040137.jpg another thing I'd like to add is that this 1/8" thick panel I used for the top half absorbed that resin like a champ, I guess I went a bet heavy on it and the board soaked in and sagged a little within the larger frame sections.. I mite have to get 2 more pieces of wood to place in there temporarely for support so that theoretically then when I do my next layer it should hold form just right if not, no biggie, I'm chalkin it up as an experiene learning deal.. |
What kind of resin? Approx. cost per square foot of cover?
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Bondo resin from Home Depot..
so far I'm about $110 into the project total! |
Looks really nice, subscribed for the progress and results.
Also I think the MPG on the window is a great idea so when the others are passing you on the highway wasting fuel, they will know why you are driving like you do. It might make others change their driving habits like neighbors that see the writing on the windows as you pass by. Edit: I just saw that you have those plastic window shade/visor things, do you think that they help aero or hurt? J/W |
DIY tonneau
Funny what can happen at as low as 12-mph! I did the same thing with the hood of my '61 Rambler.The thing took off,did a full-gainer,and I saw it land behind me in the rearview.It was one of my Darwinian moments!
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as for the vent visors, I'm not sure.. I don't know of a way to test em, but their definatly staying because I like the shade for those sunset hours fron the side, I crack the window so its jsut above the bottom edge of the visor for fresh air and it keeps the rain out with the ability for cool air :thumbup: Quote:
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Any news on the DIY hard tonneau? Was it in place for your recent record tank?
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last mileage was all me baby!
I had an issue with the first layer of fiberglass.. I think I went a little heavy on the resin so the 1/8 thick panel sagged a little.. Just got it figured out today tho.. I placed the tonneau on its top on the driveway then used some spare 2x4's to add the extra framing to kill off the sagging.. I still only have the first layer, so it moved back into place easily.. I put my weight on the 2x4's then secured them temporarely with screws.. those 2x4's doubeled the weight lol I'm planning on jumping back into it tomorrow afternoon after I do a few things around the house.. Heres what (little) I did today.. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040517.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y10...Y/P1040518.jpg |
WOW, the top is coming along nicely. Where do you get the fiberglass and resin?
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