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RH77 01-31-2009 02:01 AM

Unsolved Mystery: House Interior Found Covered in Ice
 
Here's a challenge for any Plumber, HVAC tech, Scientist, Physicist, Forensic Investigator, or anyone here with some kind of idea as to what happened -- I'm racking my brain, can't sleep trying to figure it out, and I'm getting nowhere.

The Scene: a 1930's, 2-bedroom, 2-story house with basement, in Northeastern Ohio. Heating System: hot-water heat and radiators by gravity feeding (no pump is involved), automatic water filling, and what I believe to be an "expansion tank". The residence is occupied sporadically by a close family member. Temperature setting: 55F while away.

The family member returned to the house after a cold snap (sub-zero temps). The whole house was freezing cold, and nearly every surface had a layer of ice on it: walls, windows, doors mirrors, inside closets, and mostly in the basement (icicles where all over the place in this area).

The hot water boiler had failed at some point and clearly vented a large amount of steam into the house. It looks like it started at or near the boiler unit (it was converted from a coal-fired system, to natural gas in the 50's). The water bill reflects a large amount of water used in roughly 2-weeks.

The Mystery: 2 of the 7 cast iron radiators had a chunk blown out of the side...

http://pic16.picturetrail.com/VOL698.../353162089.jpg

These things weigh a LOT, and are as strong as they are heavy. You couldn't do that with a sledgehammer.

This is the part that has me stumped. Even the plumber and HVAC guy (an old-timer in the biz) said that they had never seen or heard of anything like it -- both the radiator blow-out, and the steam-to-ice incident.

Investigation: I visited the place tonight. The clean-up crew and sub-contractors had installed a high-efficiency, forced-air (natural gas) burner, and placed a temporary duct into the basement. Future vent holes have been cut in the floor to let the heat rise, and thaw the ice. "Moldy" is an understatement. Even light fixtures in closets were dripping wet. All the carpet had to be removed (it was crunchy with ice when first found).

Theory: The boiler cracked (perhaps the exansion tank) and expelled a large amount of steam and hot water into the basement. As it rose, the steam permeated every room, closet, and the attic. The system compensated by adding more water to the system and kept the steam process going until...

The point at which the boiler failed entirely is a mystery. It's a simple system of "open gravity flow", heat, and water. It completely quit, and froze-up the house.

How did the radiator burst? The weakest point is a small valve to bleed air from the line, at the top of each rad. What blew, was the opposite side, at the top.

Could excessive line pressure do it and force more steam into each of the 2 rooms? Did the water not return after failure and it turned to solid ice, expanded, and ruptured the iron? If the expansion tank fails, the system fills with steam instead of water, does not have adequate return and calls for the feed line to provide fresh water. What prompted the system to quit? Perhaps the steam damaged the thermostat, or the circuit to engage the system. The pilot light could have extinguished, forcing a shut-off of gas via thermocouple

3rd Party Testimony: No solid ice was reported in the radiators. The boiler was dismantled and recycled -- no report on its condition, other than "covered in ice". It had to be removed to install a temporary furnace until the replacement was installed -- to begin the thawing process. The house is nearly thawed, and will be de-humidified, and repaired. In the meantime plumbing and electrical components are being replaced.

I can't seem to get a straight theory out of anyone. All they know is that the boiler cracked (or component), the house was steamed-up, the heating system failed, the condensed steam turned to ice, and the place was wrecked.

Luckily I moved a bulk of antiques and family heirlooms back to KC last summer. That was a task! But it's sad to see the place in such a state. I always remembered it as very well maintained and organized.

So, that's the mystery. The biggest things I'm trying to figure is 1) how the heck did a solid piece of cast iron bust 2) what exactly failed and spewed steam; and 3) at what point did the boiler say, "Enough is enough"?

RH77

Vwbeamer 01-31-2009 02:26 AM

Wow.

TestDrive 01-31-2009 08:23 AM

Yeah, Wow!
It's the 2 (2 not 1) radiators burst in the same way that has me most puzzled.
What do the nside faces of the broken off pieces look like?
Any rust marks that would suggest they broke along preexisting stress fractures?

metroschultz 01-31-2009 09:37 AM

I'm going with;
After the failure, water settled in the radiators,(My mom still has them also) and when everything froze, the water froze as well. Bursting the radiators. Sometime later there was a slight warm up, anything over 33 would be sufficient, and that water melted and ran into the carpets.
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
S.

TestDrive 01-31-2009 09:52 AM

metroschultz, that's what I thought at first too.
But he said -
Quote:

How did the radiator burst? The weakest point is a small valve to bleed air from the line, at the top of each rad. What blew, was the opposite side, at the top.
Unless he meant something other than what he wrote, don't think your theory will hold water. ;)

metroschultz 01-31-2009 09:56 AM

Oh poo
It appears to be at the bottom from the pic.
I even thought I saw (no not a puddy tat) the inlet behind the break.
so much for me thinkin again.

jamesqf 01-31-2009 12:17 PM

My guess is that there was first a failure of the boiler, so that it didn't come on for a long enough time that the house temperature dropped well below freezing. Water in the radiators froze, and the expansion cracked them. (Were the chunks "blown out" of the radiator right by the radiators, or some distance away?) Then later the boiler came back on, so the steaming hot water ran out the holes and froze on the cold surfaces.

RH77 01-31-2009 11:35 PM

Good responses...

The pic shows the radiator upside-down on the floor -- so the top piece ruptured. The piece didn't appear to become a projectile, but was found a few feet from the rad.

I think that hole shown is on the return side: the water fills the radiator to the top at each fin, flows through the final top passage as it cools, and drops to the bottom to be on its way at the return pipe.

I talked to some more family today. Another theory is that the boiler was in good condition. The supply line froze and didn't provide sufficient water to the system. Meanwhile, the system is heating up with steam and the components become hot. The frozen pipe then thaws and releases a rush of near-freezing water into the hot system and the violence ensues: with a possible rupture in the tank, supplying the steam. Then the system quit, froze-up and provided enough freezing power to bust the iron.

Maybe the insurance adjuster will shed some light into the matter.

It's a puzzling case for sure...

-Rick

Bicycle Bob 02-01-2009 02:48 PM

Aha! Water in a container freezes from the top down.

So, how about - furnace vents steam into a cold house, but it is not sufficient to prevent freezing of everything, including the rad.

almightybmw 02-01-2009 05:03 PM

Bob's theory was what I'm thinking. If the ice had no where to expand (no air trapped in the radiators, some old places have that) they as the temps drop, the ice forms, but the water had no where to go, so it forces the ice out the top.

So its all water system? No antifreeze? Antifreeze could have prevent the catastrophic failure. Would have made it a slush, but not frozen.

Ryland 02-01-2009 06:07 PM

A steam system like you have requires not only that all your lines be clean and that it's really turning the gallon or so of water that is in the system to steam and that it's doing so for long enough that it's reaching every radiator, I suspect that the radiators that busted open are the farthest from the boiler, or farthest from the thermostat that turns the boiler on, then they get water collecting in the bottom, as we all know evaporating water has a cooling affect, this not only makes a steam heat system work more efficiently then many other heating systems, it also mean that water that was just boiling will freeze quickly in a cold place.
Most anti-freeze solutions don't take kindly to heat over 260F, and they raise the boiling point making it harder to make the steam.

wagonman76 02-02-2009 12:54 PM

I have had a pipe burst before in the crawl space and this kind of thing worries me. Thankfully at the time I had caught it, but had I not caught it, the whole crawl space could have turned into a pool or block of ice. I also had a pipe burst below the sink. Something I have done to keep any more pipes from bursting is to turn my water inlet valve so it is only open 3/4 turn, which still gives decent water pressure. Opened all the way and taking a shower is like driving nails into my back. I am on a community water supply at the bottom of a hill. The water main in my front yard has blown 3 times in the 10 years I have lived here.

One thing I have thought of doing is put a solenoid valve at my water inlet, and connect it to a humidity alarm so it cuts the water when the humidity gets to a certain point. One thing I noticed was the extreme humidity under the house when the pipe had blown, much more than any muggy summer day.

aerohead 02-17-2009 07:37 PM

unsolved mystery
 
A guess.The system malfunctions,the house loses heat.Residual moisture condenses and collects in a few of the radiators and fails to drain off.As temperatures fall below freezing temperature inside the house,the water condensate freezes,expands,and ruptures the few radiators.At some point,the system controls sense the ambient house temp and attempts to satify the setback temp setting.The boiler fires,steam emanates from the breach in the shattered radiators,the 100% relative humidity air freezes on the sub-freezing temperature inside surfaces,coating the inside of the house with ice.------------------------- At some point,the logic of the controls "works",and opens a circuit to protect against the malfunction it's just now sensing.Without repairs and a reset from the HVAC technician,the system remains off,maintaining the freezing temps until discovered.


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