Vtec e / Dual Vtec
 

Ok Tony you pushed me out congrats.

What's the exact code? After clearing it start the car. The CEL should not stay on. The CEL will come on for a couple seconds when you key it on. Which wire harness did you use? What ECU are you using? The CX did not have lean burn, so that ECU won't help you. Also, the EGR connections are different between the HX, VX, and JDM 3 stage.

On the front of the engine by the bellhousing is an engine code. Get that, and you'll be able to get more info.

There are at least 5 or 6 variants of the D15B which is what he has, I was about to buy one of those engines from Hmotors and those guys told me they originally had a one wire O2, I didn't believe him and he said he was looking right at it, at several of them in fact. Might be worth checking into. Definitely a neat engine, but the only way to get the leanburn may be to use the P07 and run a piggyback fuel controller.


If I had access to a Helms manual for that original car/engine I would have owned one of these engines long ago - along with a shelf full of spare, peculiar, jdm specific gaskets for it.

Thats good to know. Wonder if he's trying to run a P08 then. A P07 will get him the LB, but it won't know what to do about the extra stage. Guess he could get a controller for that too. If it wasn't for the added valve train weight, I'd look into one also. Still thinking about a d12....

Why are you running the dual stage vtec with a honda cx ecu? You need the original p2j ecu.

Edit: You post what engine you bought but you didn't post what car it went into. Also what is the part # on the jdm ecu.

The JDM engines didn't come stamped differently between the variations. For example a block stamped D15B could be the 3-stage vtec or regular vtec. The way to tell is to look at the vtec solenoids. The 3-stage vtec should have 2 solenoids compared to 1 for the regular vtec and none for non-vtec. The JDM 3-stage vtec came with a 1-wire o2 sensor.

Assuming you have the right engine, and you told us you have the right ECU, I need to ask which wire harness you are using.

BTW, the CX did not have a lean burn engine (VX and HX did), so running that ECU is not going to help vs the P2J-003. To check codes, jump the service connector by the ECU with a paper clip and look up the engine trouble codes.

If it stays lit without blinking, no codes are stored. If the CEL stays on all the time (without service connector jumped) then I would try a different ECU. The one they sent could be bad.

JDM cel codes are not the same as usdm so you better double check that.

So wait.....how do you know the cel is for an o2 sensor if you didn't check?

He can still use the service connector jump to retrieve the trouble codes from the JDM ecu. But you are correct an OBD2 scanner tool will not read anything or clear any codes if you hook it up to the JDM ECU as they do not use the same OBD2 protocol.

Which is why I questioned how did he get a cel for an o2 sensor if he said getting getting codes were a pain. OP, create a video of the blinking cel light. Also how are you getting everything wired up if this is all going into an obd1 car? Is the egr sensor, egr control solenoid and vtec wires hooked up properly?

EDIT: confirm the pinouts so I can see if you have everything properly. I have a feeling either the o2 wire was hooked up to the wrong pin or all of the above has not been correctly pin.

True. from what i read, the jdm motors donot have numbers at the end of the codes on the block : my jdm d15b is 3 stage vtec w/ lean burn capabilities a usdm d15b6 will not .

The dual vtec solenoid is not a true indication of a 3 stage vtec motor. pull the solenoid off and look at the holes in the head (ha!:D) If there are only 3, all one above the other, it's single. .three one above the other, and a fourth on the bottom right:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1126895...52276147541890 like that, is 3stage.

this is the solenoid: https://picasaweb.google.com/1126895...52233914466866

for the record, i'm running a $29 ebay p2j-j62 with a manual in my 96 civic lx. (cvt ecu - I fooled it into being happy by wiring a 3 wire IACV to it. the iacv is strapped to my clutch line by my battery right now. no cel's 4 wire o2 sensor in stock d16y7 civic location.)

feel free to peek around my public picasa stuff on my "MINION" enjoy!!


My pictures don't work! you can follow this link to my "econo light" folder in picasa. you can see my dual solenoid, and where it tied into the head, and the "holes in myhead!!"
https://picasaweb.google.com/1126895...noLightAt70Mph

You're not using the correct ecu on this engine. Plain an simple. YOu basicly had everyone in your post believe you had all of the correct items when you didn't. You need to take this to someone who knows what they are doing. Depending on the vx ecu you need to wire in a 5 wire o2 sensor.

I don't think I'm going any further because I feel that you can't even produce the pinouts, you haven't produce the cel blinking video to confirm the correct code, and you haven't explained how you have the ecu hooked up in your car.

Running the VX ecu requires a 5 wire o2 sensor.................right lets get technical. Is the wire you ran o2 sensor isolated?

Whoa.......you actually installed that in your dif?

tony is right, as long as you keep running a vx (p07) with a one wire 02 you are always going to have the check engine light. it needs to be rewired with not just the 5 wire o2 sensor but all the vx specific items need to be wired in. i believe its 12 or 13 wires total. the o2 actually has 7 wires coming out of the ecu just for that, then you need egr valve and solenoid, and vtec etc.

further more making the dual stage work by adding the OBD2 jdm ecu is NOT going to be cut and dry. if it were that easy everyone would be doing it.

best thing to do would be find a tuning shop and buy an aftermarket ecu with nitrous capabilities (or i believe guys have done it with an automatic trans solenoid). guys use the regular vtec part to activate the lean burn part at the lower rpms. then they use the nitrous solenoid part to activate the performance vtec part. all the meanwhile the ecu will have to be tuned to get the economy and performance. $$

wiring it for the vx ecu then totally rewiring it to conform to the obd2 ecu would be crazy.

Or run a p72 and use the iab output with a tuned basemap, only a couple of ways to do this ( obd2b ecu, obd2a ecu, chipped ecu). I never boost about what i know when it comes to these 3 stage vtec, I keep my tone on the DL so they can continue spouting what they think they know.

TK, Maybe you could ask the question again. When I read the the post, twice, It seemed like you were trying to run the VX ECU, though you called it a CX ECU. (post #7)
Most of these guys are very helpful, but I think we got some wires crossed.
I am interested in what you are doing and do not want you to give up.

OH YEAH!! I gotta be different! only civic around these parts that can roast both tires :eek: / get sick hybrid style gas mileage :turtle: all in the same setup!

let me try and dig up the screenshots i have somewhere with the vtec pins (1&2), the econolight pin (it's a switched ground you have to bring the power to the other side of the light). it might just have what you're after...


EDIT:

just added a couple screenshots to my picasa. the link is on page 2 of this thread. I can show you the pins for vtec1&2and econo light, but I don't know anything about running a single wire o2 sensor, dude. I'm running a 4-wire up front and 4-wire at the rear of my "cat test pipe" (I'm loud. stock header to the test pipe to 3" all the way back to a 4" muffler out, all stainless except header). I couldn't even tell you if I need the rear sensor, but when I slapped this ecu in (p2j-j62), I figured what the hell.

The only wiring I modded at the ecu was for both vtec's, 3 wire IAC (previously modded from stock 3 wire to 2 for manual chipped ecu), and econo light ground connection, if I remember right.

I'll have to put up a you tube walkaround of my engine setup to explain my manual throttle body (minion don't like the auto one) on my manual intake manifold with my un-used 2 wire iac on the back, and a 3 wire iac wired in and zapped to the clutch line by my battery!! it's hilarious!! (I'm going to wire it into the cab on free wires from the automatic, and bury it in the cab somewhere. my idle happily sits right about 850-900 rpm, all by itself, but I had to mess with the IACV air mixing screw to find a happy balance). no cel's, full vtec, and lean burn!!

here's my vid. I'll make one cruising around with lean burn soon!

For the ecomodders! - YouTube

Hell. the car was warm. here's my lean burn, cruising low speeds around the 'hood

Lean burn - YouTube

It won't work if the motor's not warm. just to show...

:thumbup:thanks:D


I have. the car HATES the auto throttle body. can't adjust it to where it won't spit and sputter all over at idle or idle below a "respectable" 3000rpm. tried all kinds of combinations of gaskets / throttle bodies (auto and manual since I have both) , but this is the only one that works for me so far.

last tank, only a few full pulls (and not a whole tank, gas is a lot cheaper by my work -50 miles away)
I ran 362.1 miles from full tank. took 8.801 gallons to refill. average over 41mpg (you can keep your prius, mr toyoda, I've got lean burn in my honda!)

No EGR? BTW, the D15B 3 stages run the 1-wire o2 sensor, the 4-wire is a heated O2 sensor. It will work if it's wired correctly, the difference is the heating element of the 4-wire and running the P2J-003 it's probably not being utilized unless the heating is not ECU controlled.

not on mine, the motor did have a manual flywheel on it when it cameout of the junkyard, though. not sure what year the block is, but inside my head, it's stamped 98. i'm pretty sure my motor has a d16y8 intake manifold. not even sure where the egr would go - but from all I've read, if I were to go that route, I would also need the 3 hose ( wire as well? not sure ) evap canister. I'm running the stock d16y7 2 hose evap canister on my minion.

Ok that explains the EGR. The EGR would go next to the VTEC solenoids on the intake manifold. I'm surprised you don't get a CEL though. On the HX you get a CEL if the EGR is disconnected, although it still runs fine without it.

I also edited my post above since you responded, just adding about the 1-wire vs 4-wire.

cool. i haven't found a full pinout for any p2j ecu ( I'm on a p2j-j62 ), so I'm not sure if I should have one or not with my setup. I read that some of these motors use a 1 wire, others a 4 wire, and others running a 5 wire 02 sensors. I'm considering myself lucky that I got this much to work as well as it is right now - I don't think I'll look into the egr or even completing the iacv, unless I run into some headaches down the road.

did you see the "econo - happy light video"? hahahahah, um Bwahahaha!!

maybe that's what TK should try: pin a 4-wire o2 to the ecu. cheaper than a ecu, I'm sure.:cool:

Im not gonna repeat myself, ive ask you for certain things. You want answers than get to it. You dont want to make a video than get to the rest and update your first post with the infformation. You got time to be wasting on here, thaan you got time to post backaand aanswer what i asked.

I actualy have both obd2b auto and manual ecus. They run 1 wire o2 sensor.

Thiis is interesting to know. I will definiitely try this out.

It is possible to use the d16y8 intake manifold, from what i was told the p2j ecu does not throw a code, annd i dont see a cel code in the list either.

that might be the secret to why mine works - IF p2j-j62 = obd2b. my harness is pretty stock, aside from the iacv, vtec solenoids, and econo light. my harness is in a 1996 civic lx auto body (obd2a, if I'm not mistaken)

[/QUOTE]If you ecu is indeed 2B, then your VTEC-E solenoid is connected to B12 and VTEC is B24.

For 2A VTEC-E is A8 & VTEC is A21.

If it is EX Pin B12 is VTEC solenoid for OBD2B and A8 for OBD2A.[QUOTE]

found it here:
D15b 3-stage vtec ecu - D-series.org - I love how the first dude on there said there's no such thing as 3 stage vtec!!! LOL

Looks like I was mistaken. I'm pinned to a8 and a21 for my vtec's for sure...

Been there and that place is a very good source for the CORRECT pinouts for the obd2a setup, even for the econo light. I'm on there as another user and confirmed all obd2b pinouts, I didn't find them I confirmed them.

Yeah there are people out there that just don't keep an open mind about things and think they know it all.....sad really.

p2j-j62 is obd2a and is for the automatic cvt tranmission, but because your not using the cvt transmission control module it doesn't affect you as much as the obd2b version of the ecu. The tcm is built into the ecu itself with the obd2b version. Maybe thats probably why most people can get away with using the obd2a auto version.

makes perfect sense. at that point, can you tell me how the "power and econo" buttons hit the ecu? I'd like to think If there was an "econo" switch engaged ( on the steering wheel on a vx? never seen it, only read about it) it would let me lean burn into part of the 16v operation, maybe.:o

There is no econo switch. You might be referring the sport mode switch they had for certain models of cvt. I wanted to try it out, I even picked up an d16y5 with the cvt, ecu and tcm. I ended up junking it because my dad was complaining I had junk sitting around, can't complain its his house. Right now my d15b is running the d16y7 ecu for inspection purposes but I'm ready to switch it out to a 5spd and run the manual p2j-j11 ecu and my gas mileage will be better.

I like how OP deleted all his posts when all he had to do was reply back with what we asked. We're on the internet, we're not there with him to see whats connected and whats not, what ecu he used, how he has everything planned out. This is the reason why we as board members, or any technical honda forum, ask questions whether you said its done or not. How else do you plan on getting help online. If this doesn't make sense than I don't know what will work to assist people online.