what do guys think about Titanium fasteners?
 

the cost pretty high but half the weight...i was thinking of replacing just a few bolts... on some rotating parts...

water pump pulley x 4bolts ...switch to a light weight pulley
drive shaft x 4bolts..............switch from a 24 lbs to a 13 lbs
wheels x 80 bolts.................stock steelies was about 40 lbs each 14x6 new wheel 15x9 F 15x11 R ..(rears are 17lbs each ..fronts are 15lbs each)..i still have to get tires for them to get the full weight
and may be a few here & there on the suspension...to loose some unsprung weight


http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4332575..._2182_95450942

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4332575...2182_197506029

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4332575...7_2227_6261514

Any gains will more than be lost by overly wide wheels. What type of car is this for? 11 inch wide wheels is drag racing territory. Otherwise seems like small gains for the price when talking fasteners. Only for sponsored race cars.

Sounds interesting. Surely there are plenty of hachi-roku parts to choose from. Whatever the racers do for weight savings will surely work for hypermiling, and some of the suspension work will help too (not camber, etc). It should be said that it's unlikely for these lightweight bolts to pay off, but if it's not about return on investment through gas savings I say go ahead. The worst they can do is make your car a little bit faster and your wallet a little bit thinner.

Are you stretching skinnier tires onto the rims or using super wide tires? I have thought about stretching LRR tires for the look and function. 8)

Will it help? Yes, but you'll never notice the difference.

Do they come in titanium-colored?

sponcering is what i need lol...
its a for 1986 corolla w/ jdm 4agze swap (supercharged @ 14-15psi)
im guessing i could kill a pound or two on each wheel by swapping the bolts...to cut down rotation mass.


http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...41948887_n.jpg

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...35135034_n.jpg

they come in all types of color.. plain is the cheapest..

...and speed-enhancing aero aids. http://ijdmtoy.com/ebay/Misc/Decal/J...-decal-129.jpg

thats true....but im looking at it for the long haul..the bolts dont corrode..& i intend on racing this car and taking it to car shows..everything i can do to make it efficient and have a upper hand...im willing to do...i think the wheels and drive will have the most effect ..when i get a chance i will weigh one of the bolts on the wheels and drive shaft to see what they weight...im guessing a weight saving of a .5 - 1lb on the drive shaft and 2-3lbs on the wheels ...

no i dont do does...lol that's more popular in the honda scene

i havent decided which tire size ...but im not going for stretched look
what i can i do to make the car more efficient im willing to do....and i did alot big things all ready...the little thing is where its going to count.....my goal is lay a ass whopping to the higher hp cars :) im around 220-250 hp body weight is around 1850-1900 lbs

Maybe not, but they gall like crazy! You have to be super super super careful with anti-seize and other techniques to allow them to be removeable more than once or twice. :( If the coating on the fasteners gets compromised in any way, you may have a heck of a time with them.

-soD

trying to reach this caliber...in Japan these are well respected machines...
and have huge a cult following ..around the world..it caught in the sates in 2000 ..this is the car that put drifting on the map....but it's used in many other race series
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...48410593_n.jpg

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...45761215_n.jpg

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...24973250_n.jpg

yea i read they can be a pain but once they are on ..i really will have no reason to remove them again....(hopefully) lol

Yes, they are a respected historical AE86 generation, but time to move on.
The next reincarnation and the good karma follows into the new hachi-roku - Toyota 86/ EU GT86/ our NA FR-S.
By all accounts, the best for contemporary value/performance/most important - enjoyment.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...S/4133c93b.jpg

from experience here with lightening a car, cheap way take every bolt in the car, and cut it to just the right length to go through the fastener plus one full thread, that;s the spec for race tech approval if i remember, oversize wheels and tires will slow you down, go just as big as you need for the track . that's why drag racers and others run front skinnies, every bracket you can remove can be lightened by drilling the areas not needed for strength , edges can be radiused and smoothed with a grinder and of course all insulation and carpet thinned out , Got my 66 Mustang v8 down to 2650 full of gas and went pretty good. even with the iron heads and 4 speed. most 5.0's are around 3000 lbs, titanium sounds trick but really not worth it far as I can see, Save your money for gas and toys for the little one ,

im glad they brought back the 86 ...but they killed me with that subaru motor....

This is performance only territory; in fuel savings you'll sadly never gain back the investment.
The one nut on which weight reduction might really affect MPG, in most cases, would be the one that holds the steering wheel. Or opens a can of soda. You get the picture.

understood...but im not doing to much of 1/4 mile to get skinnies ...i done drilling my self on certain dead weight parts...and was conscious with weight when buying the aftermarket parts....


EC Works Manual Mirrors 8.4 oz (x 2) 1lb 0.8 oz vs stock power mirror 2 lbs 13.4 oz (x2) 4 lbs 5.4 oz
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._1973546_n.jpg

door hinges
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...2_654058_n.jpg

hood hinges
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._6017021_n.jpg

center consel
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._1210102_n.jpg

and some other parts...also replaced the doors hood hatch with carbon fiber
also with lighter suspension parts
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto..._1623600_n.jpg

true i problably wont ....but funny you should mention steering wheel
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4332575..._2182_95067533

Wheel lug nuts? Those have to be the most commonly removed fasteners on any car...

Remember, mass that is close to the center of rotation has less effect than mass out away from the center.

-soD

Those fasteners will earn you some scene points in the show/ drifting circles. Here on ecomodder scene points are earned with junkyard finds and spreadsheets. Good luck though. That is some nice work so far.

11 inch wheels for 250hp? I'm no suspension/racing expert but that seems a bit much. The wheel and bolt-on arch look really great (!) but is it worth the extra rotational mass? Are you an autocross geek? Track-day kinda person? Or is it going to be more street car than anything?

I understand doing it for looks. Because it'll look really, really good. But it seems a bit strange to come on here and ask if a few pounds of weight savings will improve your fuel economy on a 4AG track toy with oversized wheels. Because while many here race, we convene on this forum to talk about economy.

lol....no i was talking about the wheel bolts ,,,not the lug nuts but yes outer bolts would have more of a effect ... my wheels come 20 bolt/nuts each
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4332575...2182_131606384

thanks i'll that in mind...lol

yes i plan to do auto cross and circuit type racing ...i dont plan to add a super wide tire maybe a 245 on the rear...a slight stretch and a 205 in the front..(not sure yet)...cuz i plan to get another set of wide wheel depending on what i find one set will be the race set the other will be the drive around set

the rim only weighs 17lbs for a 15x11inch wide the front are 15 lbs..these are ssr's very are light and rare. the tire should add another 10lbs .i found a guy that was selling these and i jump on it ..you cant find these this size / offset in the states...stock was around 40lbs for a 14x6 inch rim/tire lol

ae86 circuit cars run 10 in the rear and 9 or 8 in the front ....here is a vid
you''ll see what they are using..& i planning to get aem water meth kit whicj add another 25hp when needed.. i might go turbo later on 300-350 or swap in a 2jz or a 1uzfe if money really plays right....
http://youtu.be/cEvePfeD3bc

there some guys out there running 15x12, 15x13 & 15x14....but that is just straight out for balling purposes on cressidas crowns soarers ect..lol


out here is the taller you go 20's -24 ect.... out in japan it goes by how wide you go...

I think titanium fastners make sense in aircraft and cost is no object racing. I think they are a ridiculous waste on money otherwise.

The thing with titanium is its half the weight of steel, not as strong and some where around 100x the cost.

The only place I could consider the extreme cost of titanium is in some suspention parts.
If weight saving is the name of the game then use carbon fiber where possible.

if i decide to get them i only plan to use them in rotation item where it counts to reduce rational mass

4 water pump pulley
4 drive shaft
80 on the wheels

the car is pretty much carbon doors hood hatch..... fiber glass fenders bumpers & wide body....if do get them it will be on rotational mass items...and i did put thought into suspension also

take a look at this vid 220 hp rolla vs,,,,exige, ktm, radical s4, nissan gtr, lotus 2leven " http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiFaN...4F630E3D1F7E84 "

If you want titanium suspention parts you are likely going to have to make them your self of comission someone to make them for you.

I used to copy suspention suspention parts in titanium.

i already have a brand new suspension...coilovers, panhard,4links,traction brackets, sway bars, tie rods, polyurethane bushing...and i spent alot but most the items where lighter than stock....if i do decide to purchase i just want to replace the bolts & nuts.....a titanium suspension a would be nice ..but astronomical $$$ !! lol...i dont have that kinda money..i already made serious sacrifices just to be where im at...i did look into a titanium engine cross member...there is a race shop here in jersey that deals with titanium fab...my cross member weighs 17lbs can get it down to 7-8 lbs cost is about $700 to fabricate..
i also looked into titanium headers $1200 & $catbacks 1200 7lbs each stock exhaust weigh around 45 lbs im currently around 25 lbs full exhaust ..
do you still copy parts in titanium?

I'm familiar with Japanese styling... oni kyan is not for racing of course. I understand that wheels are a status symbol. My point is that if you're running 11" wide wheels for the hell of it, why do you worry so much about a few ounces in wheel bolts? If they're rare three piece SSR's, get some bolts that look good and save the unobtanium for places that might make more of a difference- maybe fiberglass body panels or lexan windows.

I don't doubt that 86's are great cars. They are. But I can't help thinking your money and effort might be better spent elsewhere. If you're truly saving 11lbs. on the driveshaft bolts alone, it seems worthwhile. How much do the wheel bolts weigh?

A recent scene in our neighborhood speedway, the very first 86Fest, with the best tuned 86's and most importantly the world's best 86 drivers. The best track/road performers had a balanced and very pragmatic setups. The ones with most expensive parts and unobtanium materials were strictly for aftermarket product trade shows and magazine photoshoots.

86FEST: the ultimate festival for Scion FRS, Subaru BRZ, & Toyota AE86 enthusiasts

New school - http://i.imgur.com/klhXl.jpg

im not running wide for the hell of it 10 inch is the norm..with a low offset... i dont have to go as low of because of the width...like i mention earlier these dont weigh nothing..17lbs..there are 20bolts per wheel..other aftermarket rims will weigh alot more for the same size and width ...i will weigh the bolts that hold the wheel together...i could get lexan but then im going to get harassed by popo and not really in the mood for that when im on the streets ...im tinting the carbon parts so they wont be so obvious..trying to keep the car one solid color (low key is the game)...my is goal is to make the car is quick as possible with full interior and glass still attached to attract least attention...the only thing i replaced in the interior was the 2 front seats 88lb stock down to 30lb recaros i ready have fiberglass fenders, bumpers..and i dont know how im going to keep the supercharger..eventually im going turbo..

Sounds like you've got it all figured out then! (Why not get the carbon painted to match?) :)

nah i dont want a solid color...i like the carbon look..but i dont want to be so obvious...just when you walk up to the car you can notice it...i live an hour away from the closest track..i dont want to be a police bullseye getting there..lol

here is a pic of carbon that has been color matched

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...w/c36efb78.jpg

Rally drivers go 55mph from stage to stage because getting pulled over DNF's their entire day. Go the speed limit, follow laws and they'll have no reason to pull you over! :)

(But really, do what you want!)