Wheel Covers using bicycler DIY ...
 

Hello -

Because I have alloys, snap-on racing disk wheel-covers are not an option for me. Here is my current OEM alloy :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-cf...wheelcover.jpg

What you don't see is that there is a slight bulge to the wheel. A flat plastic disk won't work because the edge will not touch the rim of the wheel.

Now, I just found this :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfoAJicjNJc

I think this would be a good idea for a no-frills get-the-job-done wheel cover that is also easy to take off (more zip ties will have to die for the cause).

CarloSW2

Looks like it would work out pretty good...

By the way:
1. Those linear cuts that he made are called "pie cuts". They allow a shape to bend on another axis without compromising the original geometry. Or something like that.
2.You can remove zip ties with a small pin... it doesn't take much, but imagine how many less of them you'd be throwing away?

Bike polo is a sport for crazy people, and they would come up with something like that.

However, it looks like an interesting idea and his construction seems very straightforward, but I would not recommend drilling into one's own lap the way he does in the video. That is a safety no-no

Hello -

I started this album with pop-up details on the pix :

Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - cfg83's Album: Wheel Cover

First, I used a 16" pizza pan to cut a circular pattern on posterboard paper. I needed the posterboard paper circle to figure out the center point (two folds) and test fit the circle on the wheel :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-cf...enterpoint.jpg

Then I used the Pizza Pan as a hard edge to cut another circle in "sign plastic" :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-cf...cut-circle.jpg

Here it is installed :
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-cf...-side-view.jpg

Front view of it installed :
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-cf...h-bows-out.jpg
Notice how much it bows out. This could be mitigated by starting with a smaller diameter plastic circle. However, I think the shape under my wheel may need this much to fit correctly, *and* to provide enough plastic for overlap.

Here is a "cut-away" of where I attached the zip ties :
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-cf...-where-zip.jpg
The "green line" along the cutting edge is the "underneath overlap". I used two mini-zip ties instead of one because I considered that the "weak spot". I also drilled a center hole to (hopefully) mitigate my initial cut continuing to break along the cutting line. The wheel rotates forward counter-clockwise in this picture, so I made the overlap so that the air can't get under the wheel cover.

Benefits :
- Cheap. I paid $6 for the sign, but I'll bet you can get this plastic for a lot cheaper. I was just in the hardware store at the time and it was the right size to do the job.
- Fits really well. The overlap allowed me to "fit" the cover to the inner groove of the wheel. You can see the rim of the wheel in the last picture.
- Easy cut zip tie to remove.
- Matches my car color without trying (I like this style going wayyyyy back), but I think it could be painted to match any color. I am also thinking of "black out plastic" for a different look.
- I can add-air. My valve caps have a "bolt" shape to the end, so I will carry a little wrench of the right size and remove the caps with that (though I think I will need to Dremel the hole to be a little bit bigger).
- Light plastic. I am not worried about wheel balancing or it flying off and hurting anything.
- I have a "4 point" attachment setup for the zip ties because I have a "x4" wheel spoke design, but this could be N point for wheels with "x3" or "x5" wheel spoke designs.
- 100% reversible (EDIT)

Problems :
- PITA to make (my eternal complaint). Pending test of single one, others should go more smoothly. I have a friend that can cut perfect circles in plastic, so I will go to him for new ones.
- Sign plastic may not be durable. I would like to have used a "softer" more durable plastic, similar to what zip ties or car mudflaps are made of. This plastic may be too "brittle" under impact. Time will tell.
- I like to go to a car wash every now and then. Years ago my snap-on racing disks were damaged by a car wash. I think these covers will pass the grade, but I will need to do more measurements and/or give up the car wash. My hunch is that I am safe because the metal racing disks bowed out *a lot* in order to work with any type of wheel. This shape is more conical.
- The zip tie attachment sticks out. I didn't zip it from the back because I was lazy and I have a dust brake shield in the way. I am doing "proof of concept" right now, so I am not too worried about it.

At this point I will be testing it for durability. If it works, I will make the rest and I will have my RACING DISKS BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CarloSW2

Good write-up.

I'm not crazy about the idea of a seam in the wheel cover - I just think it's going to be a point for wear.

I keep coming back to this issue myself. I suppose there is no easy way to press that domed shape into sheet aluminum, or we'd all be doing it by now.

Yes, there is.

Christ -

Oooooh, sounds good. Can it be done without many tools? I ask because I am bereft of access to specialty tool items. For instance, I can only get professional circles cut in plastic, not metal.

CarloSW2

MetroMPG -

I agree. You can cut the plastic so that there is no overlap, but then you have a long seam for air to get in.

In terms of wear, that's why I only ever do one wheel at a time. Not gonna waste effort on a bad design. I will report on damage to the cover as/if it happens.

CarloSW2

Christ -

I'm in R&D mode right now, so the zips will die a quick death. I can already think of a (complicated) no zip tie solution, but I want to prove/disprove the durability of the mod first.

CarloSW2

You need something that's already the shape that you want, to use as a mold, of sorts.

For plastic convexes, you just use the oven, and #1 or #2 plastic (check the recycling logo, or just know what you're working with.) Set your mold in a pan (in case you melt the plastic too much) and preheat the oven to about 240*. Place the plastic disc (not trimmed out yet) on top of your mold and walk away for about 5-7 mins. Once it's in the proper shape, shut off the oven and let it cool without opening the door. (The sudden cool-down might warp it if you open the door.)

For metal: Use a soft metal, such as galvanized or aluminum sheeting. Find something that approximates the shape and size of the object you want to make. Center punch/drill your metal's center, fasten it to your shaping object, securely. Set up so that your shaping object can spin at a relatively low speed (~100RPM, give or take). Get a 6" steel caster wheel (smaller works, but will take longer, obviously) or a steel ball that fits in a socket that allows it to spin freely in all directions (this is better, casters are easier to come by). While your metal is spinning, starting from the center, apply mild pressure (you'll feel it bend a bit) and start working your way to the outside. NEVER go from the outside in, as this will wrinkle your metal. Work from the center out as many times as it takes to get the desired cone-shape and pitch.

What happens (in the metal one) is that you're actually stretcing the metal over the mold, the same way you would with leather or fabrics. The thing is that as you "work" the metal with the wheel, it heats up ever so slightly (it should get warm to the touch, but not hot) this makes the metal more malleable, and it loses it's "memory". Once you're done working it, give it a few mins to cool and calm down before you remove it from the mold, and it will "memorize" the new shape. You'll need to work the metal from inside to outside several times, though. This process is not fast. It's pretty intensive.

For wheel skirts, I'd stick with denser plastics in the oven, personally.

Super glue? Seems like you could just paste some glue over it and smooth it out with a tongue depressor to get rid of the overlap necessary... or taper both edges of the pie cut to fit together, then glue them before installation.

AAMOF, if you're careful about where you make the pie-cut, and you're using corrugated plastic, you can just stick a couple plastic pins in the corrugation to hold the pieces together.

Christ -

Yes, you could also cut a small pie piece that you use as a base (on the back) to glue the cut edges together.

I didn't use coroplast because I liked the thinness of the plastic sign. I speculated coroplast wouldn't bend as well (probably not true for this application, but that's how my brain works). I also don't like cutting curves in coroplast. Gluing coroplast together with pins is a cool idea, though. Gonna save that idea for later.

Right now I'm happy with the results. The real test will be my commute to work.

CarloSW2

Yeah I have never thought of using zip ties to hold stuff on like that, maybe I will put some full moons on my car now, or a some grill blocks. I didn't want to before but zip ties are so easy to remove... :)

I think I might make some blackouts (Wheel covers) for my van if none of these trades go through... in fact, if none of the trades go through, I'm probably just going to start really working on aeromodding and converting to electric..

It'll become my project vehicle. :)

Hello -

I realized I have another compromise option, so I did a Paint Shop mockup :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-cf...use-i-have.jpg
Because I have rear wheel skirts, the pointy top would be at risk of hitting the inside of the skirt. The following option would be clear of the skirt. The way things are connected, I think it would still be stable. This is also a version that could be left on during visits to my "Just Tires" store, the auto repair shop, and changing a flat on the road. The wheel is fully accessible for removal. I could still make a center-cap cover with a center bolt to cover the bolts on the center cap.

CarloSW2

You could keep the center cap open and epoxy on some flat plastic pieces to the caps of the plastic nuts, and cut small slots into them, so you can take them off with a screwdriver.

Less work, and probably just as aero (maybe .000001 different, maybe.)

Christ -

That's true. I will look at plastic cap hole cover thingys that might fit over them quite nicely.

I need that .000001 difference to make up for the Pokemon crap in my car, :D .

CarloSW2

Try Caplugs (Cap/Plugs) You can get them at NAPA, usually.

Also: Welcome To Caplugs

They can probably get you a cap that fits right into your center cap's hole. I just don't know if they'd sell only 16 of them... then again, if they can give you a part number, you can get them (again) from NAPA.

Christ -

Ok. I'll check Caplugs out too. I like the Vinyl Hex Caps. I could find a perfect fit and put a "flat cap hat" on that, hee hee hee.

CarloSW2

Ya know, those plastic lugnut covers make great mounting locations, too.:D

I wonder if that would work for my front wheels, or if it would even make a difference?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...s/DSCF7132.jpg

If you have big truck wheels with ALCOA standard wheels, probably not much... you could fill in the holes, but that might cause a brake cooling problem.

Good idea.

You lucky warm climate people have the luxury of lots of time (appropriate weather) for doing & testing mods!

Christ - thanks for posting those metal/plastic working ideas.

Always here to help -.-

As far as big-truck guy:

Yeah, those are ALCOA standard wheels... you probably won't get much better aero from them, unless you can put a dog dish over your lugnuts or something, but even then, they're not going to get much better than they are.

I've thought about getting the center caps and lug covers, but don't have the time, or the money (to spend on someone else's truck). On a side note, on the rear discs, they're brushed aluminum. I've tested an area with polish (but was to lazy to do the whole wheel), and it does smooth out quite a bit (and shine more than they do now). Is there much difference in smooth surface vs. not? I know there is, but not sure if there is in relation to my situation. From my time of watching Nascar restrictor plate races (Daytona & Talladega) that instead of decal/wrapping, they actually paint the car and logos on for 0 raised edges. They also wax the surface and do a wipedown right before green flag, but on the scale of searching for .0001 sec or less gains (that still make a huge difference), it matters.

Christ -

I agree, but the conical shape that comes out of this design makes it a leetle more problematic for using them as a mount point.

Everything is being dictated by my wheel's shape. For the lugnot mount, Instead of a conical shape, I would need a "shallow convex bowl" that starts flat at the center and then curves inwards to the rom of the wheel. Hard to explain.

Coincidently, the pizza pan I have is the perfect shape. It's drawback is that it is maybe 1/2" diameter too big. If I used it, I would risk damaging the tire, and it would be vulnerable to car wash damage too. It's actually a candidate for the "melting oven plastic" option you described. However, my wife's Mom and Dad bought our stove as a moving-in gift, so I am leery of "making a mistake" with that, if you know what I mean. My wife lets me do whatever I want to my car, but the stove is her baby.

CarloSW2

MetroMPG -

Yeah, but I always pick the wrong time to do it. It was "only" 90+ degrees F yesterday, but the unshaded part of the concrete driveway could fry an egg (my stupid brain insisted on bare feet). I wish I'd seen the DIY bicycler video 3 months ago.

I know, I know, always the complainer, :o

CarloSW2

I understand, I understand, and you can use any heat source, as long as it can get you to 240* or so and hold there for a few mins. (Grill?)

Cardboard box painted black, old storm window, instant plastic melting oven

skyl4rk -

OMG, you're totally correct. Use the agony of the summer in my favor. I promise to try this later this summer.

CarloSW2

Christ -

I have a heat gun and the pizza pan has holes in it, so I could blast it from below. Maybe put a metal pan in between to help "even" the temp distribution(?!?!?). I could vary the overall temp as a function of distance between the heat gun and the pan.

Lots of good fabbing ideas flying around.

CarloSW2

Got an insulated box that you can put the pizza pan in? You can spray the heat gun into it and watch the internal temp until it gets to a good temp, then just let it cool for a few hours. It should form anyway.

Another thing that you could use instead of PVA is ABS... but I'm not sure about the melting point (before it burns). I do know that you can melt ABS in acetone, and use it for patch plastic. Maybe you could try forming some by soaking it in acetone and pressing it into a mold?

Hello -

The wheel covers are pretty sturdy after a week :

Wheel Cover Report I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZEBjzB5l5g

To solve the "small valve stem access hole" problem I made a "magnetic" valve stem cover out of a valve stem that can be removed with a 3/8 socket. The socket is metal and the valve stem cover is magnetic, so it stays in the socket after I unscrew it.

I will be making the "donut version" next for the rear wheel.

CarloSW2

Great!

As far as improvements, doing the metal work thing actually makes a sort of shallow parabola, which is geometrically self-sustaining. It needs no further bracing, other than the stiffness of the material you use.