The White Gnat (1999 Suzuki Swift 1.3L manual)
 

Well, with the Jimmy out of commission for the time being, I have the White Gnat (1999 Suzuki Swift) back, but it's not too happy. It needed a new alternator & battery, but after that, wouldn't even idle without dying. So I "SeaFoamed" it today & put 100 miles on a fresh tank of gas (and SeaFoam) to try to clean things out, maybe. By the end of the drive, it would idle in neutral, at least.

In MPG vs. speed tests, with a yet uncalibrated ScanGauge, I had to drop it below 60 mph before it would hit 40 MPG. And I was unable to do an 80 MPH test because it wouldn't go that fast. !!

Anyway, taking it into my mechanic tomorrow for a compression & leakdown test.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1390289748

Good luck with it. I'll bet it looks good in white paint, at least :)

Watching with interest.

I've seen a couple of 4-cyl manual Suzuki clones here in Vancouver in the last week.

Been reading in the Geo Metro forum that these things tend to "eat exhaust valves like crazy". (not sure if that includes BOTH the 3 cylinder AND 4 cylinder engines?) Mechanic says he doesn't doubt the valves are "it", but wants to compression check ("dry" & then "wet") & make sure. He says it doesn't smoke or have enough miles (136,XXX) to make him think it needs rings, but the dry/wet test will shed light on that.

However, on the Metro forum, I'm seeing the advice of "if you do one, do both" (valves & rings). While I'd love to have that engine "like new", I'm on pretty tight budget, and am thinking it would be a lot more to take the whole engine out for rings (and if you're gonna do that, better do bearings & hone the cylinders, right?).

There also seems to have been some sort of leak over on the front (belt) side. A streak of oil is on the underside of the hood in line with the belts. I don't know, but have a sick feeling it might be like the front main seal or something. The alternator was actually douched-out in oil/grease, and the mechanic says that sped it's demise. So I can't be allowing that to continue with the new alternator. :(

So what do you think? Try to get by cheap (for now) with just a valve job? What if we find out it's the front main seal? Does that require removing the engine? I think this thing will need more work before I'm done. I heard a nasty clicking - almost like a few rocks rolling around in a coffee can - when under power or acceleration, especially when turning, especially when turning left. Axle end joints? The driver's side rear tire wears really badly on the outside, too. Rear alignment? Is there such a thing?

Advice, please? Thanx :confused:

Oh, the oil gets REALLY black & yucky by the time I change it (5000 miles), too. I'm guessing that means something's getting down in there that shouldn't. Rings?

I'm thinking that the little extra money to replace the rings now might be worth it in the long run because then you're not paying for the labor for a head rebuild and a bottom end rebuild twice.

The engine should be removed for both rebuilds because an in car rebuild means the block isn't being smoothed down which means your head gasket won't last as long.

You should also look into doing the job yourself. it's very easy on the metros and everyone at the geometroforum.com will help you through the process or even come help you depending where you're located at.

Even if I attempt to do it myself (I have a friend who does engines who would probably help), there will be parts and machining required, right? Cost estimates? I don't really have $1000 to dump into it, but then, since I'm down to my last car (this one), I might not have much of a choice, either. :(

One guy suggested I need to "decide if I want to keep the car" - said it might not be worth the cost of an engine rebuild. !!!! Well, I sure as heck know I can't afford another car right now - especially one that gets as good MPG as this one does/did. :eek:

As far as I know, the valve issue is only on the 3-cyl engines. The rings should still be fine at 136k miles too. The front main seal isn't much more work than a timing belt replacement. Engine removal not necessary, but you might need to lower the front of the engine to get the pulley off. If you really do need an engine, you might want to look for a used one. If it's leaking oil on the belts, maybe the timing belt skipped a tooth or two?

The sound while turning and accelerating is likely the outer CV joint(s). About $60 each side for a rebuilt axle. Rear toe is adjustable on Metros/Swifts. But look for bent control arms first.

Just got a call from the mechanic; compression test complete.... 115 psi in the #1 & #2 cylinders, zero in the #3 & #4 cylinders. So I had him go ahead & take the head off to take to the machine shop. When he got it off, he called again; 2 exhaust valves burned so bad they were cracked. One each on the #3 and #4 cylinders. I guess this is a 16 valve engine - 4 valves per cylinder. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing. :confused:

He says the cylinders look fine, though; no scratches or "lip" at the top of piston travel.

Also, both outer CV joints are gone, so he's gonna replace the half shafts while he's at it - and then fix that rear wheel alignment, too. The White Gnat will be almost "like new" (mechnaically) when I get it back. I may have to file for bankruptcy, but that's another story....

One last note here: I filled it up & posted mileage right before taking it into the mechanic - 24.91 MPG on the super-sick engine. Just looked on the list here in % over EPA and am proud to report I'm second to LAST - 440th out of 441!!! HAH!! 28.826% BELOW EPA. Nowhere to go but "up" now, huh? Now, where's that thread I saw on "who's the WORST ecomoders on this site?" I think I have a contender!! LOL!!! :thumbup:

Update on the gnat:

Went to the machine shop today to pay for the valve job. Two badly burnt and cracked exhaust valves seem to be the major contributor to the zero compression in their two cylinders. In addition, they said the valve guides were loose, out of tolerances as well as the seats being all "jammed-up" with carbon, requiring them to be re-cut. He said there was evidence of a lean condition (the burned valves being the symptom, not the cause), and he suspects possible "bad" fuel injectors. - next thing to check, I guess.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1390289950

The other picture is the gnat's under-hood area with the "headless" engine patiently waiting to be reunited with it's re-furbished head sporting two brand new, shiny exhaust valves. Two new axles are on the way, too.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...9950[/url]

In a few days, I might just be driving my awesome mileage machine again. :thumbup:

Head's done. Back from the machine shop...

Mechanic says he thinks the oil leak that drenched the alternator was from the cam seal. Gonna replace that when installing the rebuilt head.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...0292[/url]

Too bad you don't live close to me... I've got a working DOHC 1.3L in a Swift GT I don't need:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1315783546

Technically I'm supposed to sell that engine for its owner. Probably for a fraction of your impending bill though... but then it won't be as freshened up as yours. Or as efficient!

Oh, man!!! I wonder what shipping would have been, though? Too late now, I guess. :(

I didn't have them do anything to the "bottom end" (shortblock). Left it in the car & just had the head done. Hope I don't regret it - just couldn't afford it at the moment. The oil gets really dirty, so I assume that's from stuff getting by the rings. Although the machine shop said the valve guides were loose enough they were out of tolerance, so maybe the "black" was getting into the oil that way? Anyway, hope to have my "mileage machine" on the road soon & start getting that 50 mpg again.

Pooh!!!!

They were supposed to have it ready by today (yesterday), and said they'd stay late to finish it - to expect it to be done by about 6:30-ish. At 6:30 they called with "good news and bad news":

The good news is they got the engine all back together and it runs GREAT - really smooth, really quiet, all the cylinders are firing, valves are adjusted "nuts-on"....

The "bad news" is it developed a crack in a part between the back of the block (or head - can't remember which) and the thermostat housing. Now, coolant sprays out when it runs. So ...... I can't have it back until they find a replacement for that part, or someone who can TIG weld that crack.

So the wait continues..... :( :( :(

Got to hear the Gnat run today. Nice & smooth now. The broken part for the water outlet is now on order. Gotta wait for it to come in from Sacramento. ---- grrrr. Can't wait to start driving it & see what kinds of improvements is has in the way it runs.

Plan of attack?
 

In anticipation of finally getting my Gnat back in a couple of days, I'm trying to gather my thoughts and figure out where to start in modding. My goal: become another one of the Metros/Swifts to be registering in the 60+ mpg realm. I want to start doing things that will make a difference, as I can. But after the new alternator, battery, and head work, my budget's about gone for awhile, so I need to start with the free/cheap stuff. This is my first attempt to "list" them, more-or-less in order:

1) Air up the tires to? 155-80/13 Can they handle 60, I wonder?
2) Front grille block with black duct tape - nicer one later
3) Fuel injector kill switch for better EOC-ing
4) Hand throttle control, so I can drive long distances easier
5) Rear wheel/4-wheel alignment. Outsides of rear tires are wearing badly
6) Engine/oil pan heater. Not super-cheap, but it's winter & I want MPGs!
7) Rear fender skirts - cardboard first for A-B-A testing, then nicer - maybe
8) Full belly pan
9) Front & maybe rear wheel covers and/or fairings/spats
10) Kamm-back/partial boattail
11) At some point by about now, I'll need new tires - will try to find LRR
12) When the next oil change is due, go to Mobil-1, 0w20

Suggestions? Should I change the order of this list? Some things found to be "not really worth it" by other Metro/Swift owners?
Thanks

PS: In looking through the list, it looks like there are no FOUR cylinder Metros/Swifts in the top of the MPG ratings..... Looks like I've got my challenge - gotta change that!!!!

60 MPG is a piece of cake (in decent weather) with this car in sub/urban driving, with lots of EOC (engine off coasting), and pulse & glide.

I'd move the kill switch up to position #3.

Also: where in the list is instrumentation? I'd put that near the top too.

FYI, I tested (not very well) grille blocking + rear wheel skirts on this body style: Testing grille blocking & wheel skirts: +5.7% improvement - MetroMPG.com

Thanks MetroMPG. I already have a ScanGauge - didn't mention it - sorry. Are you talking about something more?

I have never tried P & G. I suppose it's WAY easier with an engine kill switch. A new learning opportunity, I guess. :-)

Thanks again - very helpful as usual.
Bill

Not a problem.

ScanGauge is A-OK. You don't need anything more than that.

MetroMPG, tell me more!
 

Crap!! They "lost" the new head!!! Looks like oil starvation to part of the cam, resulting in non-fixable damage to the cam AND some of the journals in the head. :eek: :mad:

The machine shop isn't admitting the head repair could be their fault, so it looks like my mechanic is going to be "stuck" with correcting the problem. He's looking for another used head in local junkyards, but all options are on the table, including an entire running engine.

So tell me more about your deal. Year model and miles on engine? Why do you say it wouldn't be as efficient? Is that because the DOHC versions are less efficient than the SOHC ones?

Another question was whether an 8-valve head would be a simple "bolt-on" for me if they found one of those? Seems I saw a thread where there was some disagreement on whether it would be a simple bolt-on, or if a bunch of other stuff would need to be replaced, too. ???

Anyone know of anything available on the WEST side of the continent? :confused:

It's probably an early 90's car - 91, let's say. No idea on miles, but probably a lot, and they aren't gentle ones!

The DOHC cars are less efficient because they're more powerful - 100 hp vs. ~70 hp for the SOHC. I'm honestly not sure what else is different to get that power boost. Maybe multipoint fuel injection? I really have no idea. I just got the car for the GT body pieces.

Hmmm, maybe I should keep looking. I'm really wanting economy more than power. If we find a 3 cylinder engine, could it bolt up to my transaxle? :confused:

The 3-cyl will bolt up to the transaxle, but there are other changes required to do the swap. You'll need the 3-cyl axles, ECU and maybe wiring harness. I'm not sure about the newer cars, but on the '89-'94 Metro/Swift, the engine mounts on the body are different too. So not a simple fix.

The 8-valve would be almost as much work. It has TBI and will require the correct wiring harness and ECU. Also the valves might not get along with the 16V pistons.

OK, thanks Gasoline Fumes,

Guess I'd better stick to the same kind that came with it. Looks like there might be a place in Oakland that has them "reconditioned". That's not too far....

Guess what my mechanic found today at a local junkyard? Out of a 2000 model with 7000 miles on it. Car was totaled, engine had been sitting there in their shed for the last 10 years. Oil was clean, no sludge, everything looks good. It was an automatic. Guess we're replacing the clutch, now. Swap begins tomorrow. :thumbup:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...0629[/url]

The mechanic's co-hort was in the junkyard looking for a part for his truck, whacked his shin on something, looked down, and there was EXACTLY the engine we were looking for. They wouldn't sell just the head - had to take the whole engine. But - - - - swapping my 136,000 mile bottom-end for this 7000 mile one? ...... uh, OK!!! :D

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...0629[/url]

Old engine's completely out now
 

Mechanic is preparing "new" engine to install - new timing belt, tensioner, water pump from original engine & head repair. Did some de-greasing & cleaning of engine compartment.....

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1390290877

This will be nice - they're "mix-n-matching" parts depending on condition, etc. Turns out the "old" installation was missing a bunch or brackets & stuff that were on the "new" engine from the junkyard, so the car will actually be more "complete" this time around...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1390290877

The gnat is back!!!
 

Picked it up from the mechanic this afternoon. Wow, feels SO different to drive!! Smooth, responsive, accelerated right up to highway speed... New axles, new clutch, and almost new engine (7000 miles, they tell me).

On the trip back home (approx. 4 or 5 miles) it averaged 41+ mpg on the ScanGauge "current trip". Backing up, turning around, several stop lights & signs plus a couple or 3 miles on the freeway at 60 MPH. Had to leave town (in another car), so can't be driving it again for a few days, but I can't wait!!!

:) :) :) :) :)

Preliminary new best - 60 MPG
 

Good news; I got my wish - my first 2-way average of 60 MPG + during my first mileage test run with the "new" engine!! :)

It's "preliminary" because I haven't calibrated the ScanGuage since the engine transplant, so don't know if it'll change.

The "mediocre news" is I had to drop down to 35 MPH before it registered 60 (62.4 north & 63.0 south - avg = 62.7). At 40 MPH it was just short; 2-way avg of 59.45. But it was over 50 MPG at all speeds below 50. I didn't test it at 55, but since it got 46.25 at 60, I suspect 55 would have been 50+ MPG, too.

These were all on my 4.5 mile test course.

Well, the Gnat is now up from 2nd to 6th from last place in the "Percentage over EPA" list.

Filled up today, first time since all the engine work/replacement and had 33.378 MPG on the tank. Of course, this includes the thing running terrible driving to the mechanic and all the testing he did on it while in the shop. Lots of cold starts & stuff too - - and no "mods" on it yet. So I hope mileage rises on the next tank.

Oh, there was a big "adjustment" needed on the ScanGauge, too. It took a full gallon more than the ScanGuage estimate. So my 62 MPG I thought I got the other day was probably not accurate. :(

Great news. Too bad you didn't find that new engine before dumping money into the old one. Anyhoo, looks as though them wrecking the tired engine was a blessing in disguise.

Yup, that's almost exactly what the mechanic said.... "Why couldn't we have known about this engine before we took the head off & had it rebuilt?" I think were his exact words - or close to them.

You now have someone new to compare notes with:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ide-24970.html

Gnat's now 225th out of 414 gas cars
 

That's the 3 tank average, and that first tank was horrible, so it will go up. ;)

Filled up today, first full tank with the "new" engine. 37.4 MPG in mixed driving and numerous cold starts. (wow, this thing sure cools down fast!)

As suspected, the ScanGauge had to be re-adjusted again, but not as much as last time. After the fill-up, it was showing 50 MPG average for a few miles.

No aero mods yet either. I think I'll try a quickie grille block with duct tape this tank, maybe. - for A-B-A testing, at least.

A bit of a dissappointment today
 

Went to do some A-B-A testing today with & without the grille blocked, so started out with 3 "baseline" runs at 55 mph for the initial "A" test.

First dissappointment - averaged only 46.95 mpg. Although it was climbing about 0.3 mpg each time, so maybe the "system" was still warming up - would a 4th run have been even higher? Dunno, because....

Second dissappointment - Just as I was finishing up the last "baseline" run, I got a call from my elderly parents that they were in town and just heading over to eat. Well, 1st, I cannot pass up a meal, and 2nd, I shouldn't "blow off" my elderly parents.

So, it looks like there's "plenty of room for improvement" if I want to be able to do "55 at 55", my initial goal (55 mpg at 55 mph). ... and of course, I still don't know what effect the grille block will have..... :(

The '98 and up Metro/Swift/Firefly has a massive amount of open area in its bumper.

http://cdn0.autopartsnetwork.com/ima...rm601-87-1.jpg

I'm sure I've blocked well over 80% of mine (with a home-made "bra"):

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...7&d=1197476035
From: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...k-bra-285.html

This is one mod I would just go ahead and do. It's guaranteed to help. (Unless of course, you're a nerd for the data and just want to run the test. Then, by all means have fun!)

Pleasing results & hit 60 mpg again.
 

Thanx, Darin,

I took your advice & did it without doing another set of "A" tests beforehand (or after, because I was so pleased, I didn't wanna remove it!!!) The weather was similar to the way it was when I did the initial "A" tests the other day, and as you suggested, don't think I need to "prove" it in rigorous testing - - - - I know it works!!! (see thumbnail below)

Revisiting my initial "to do list", starting to have some progress. :)

Oh, I was so pleased with the grille block results I decided to do a pair of runs (northbound & southbound) at lower speeds. I did it between 35 and 40 MPH and averaged 61.95 MPG according to the ScanGauge. I almost did another one at between 40 and 45 mph to see if I could hit 60 mpg at that speed, but didn't due to the time.

But this time, I'm much more confident than I was with my original 60+ mpg result, because the ScanGauge has been re-calibrated a couple times, and I think I'm finally getting it "zeroed-in" (adjustments are getting much smaller) :D

If you look at my pic, on the right side of the opening in the bra there's a square of material that is velcroed in place. I made it "just in case" I needed more cooling - makes me feel like a highway trucker with all the fabric variable grille blocks I see running down the road on those rigs. :D

But I've never opened it. In fact, I've since blocked the small upper opening between the hood and bumper as well.

Of course, YMMV, since your engine is a bit bigger and may need more cooling than the 1.0L.

This thread is definitely interesting since I too own a swift with the 1.3/5spd engine.
I see you are Getting closer to 50mpg? I myself are averaging 40 now in winter temperatures (below freezing) with winter tyres (lots of friction) and bad cold starts.

Hoping to increase this as summer comes around, but im looking into putting a grill block on the car since I recently hit a deer shredding my grille into a million pieces. Except that I only got minor cracks in the fiberglass front.

I'll subscribe to this thread, eager to see what you come up with :)

Great to hear from you, Pierrel. It's an honor that you're reading. - and, Welcome! If I'm counting correctly, that makes three 1.3 liter, four cylinder Swifts with 5-speeds on here now! :thumbup:

MetroMPG, I did look at your picture with great interest, and think my coverage is similar, except not the sexy one-piece deal like yours. I've been carefully watching my temperature, and it's not even pretending to get hot, therefore, I went ahead and covered the rest of the grille with more strips of tape (easy to remove if I ever need to). There is also a big open gap below the bumper/air dam thingy that's also open to the radiator, so there is access to air should the fan come on.

My latest little test has been to see what the characteristics of the cold start operation are. So what I'm doing is starting my stopwatch when I start my engine & also write down the "intake air temperature" and the "water temperature". Then I immediately start driving on a predetermined course, writing down both temperatures every two minutes. I do this for 10 minutes, which also puts me in an area where I can do a little mileage test at 40 MPH. So I turn around and immediately do a 40 mph run over a pre-determined course & log the mileage, then turn around again and do it the opposite direction. After that, I find a place to park, log the total time since starting the engine (about 18 minutes yesterday, 17 today), and the "trip" mileage for "today".

What I'm hoping to eventually accomplish is to establish some sort of baseline after a few days (these are my first trips of the day) that I can compare future thinner oil, Warm Air Intake, and/or engine block/transmission heater(s) against in the future.

Thank you!
Yes, soon we may even be a greater number of owners than people owning geo metros on here... Or not ;)

Sounds like you have a plan! I hope you don't mind me cheating and using some of your information, as I don't have the time or money to put up "testing routes" for future mods. I envy your ambition though!

Keep up the good work!

Thank YOU! :) And I don't think it's "cheating" at all - I think the whole idea for this site is to share what we've learned. I could probably just skip all the testing and do what they say on here will work. But I'm curious and want to find out how these mods effect MY car. Also, I'm a bit of a "geek" and love experimenting. - and I'm retired, so that helps!! Maybe it's my "hobby".

But also, when I started, all the information seemed to be for the earlier model THREE cylinder Metros. After reading the 4 cylinder gets worse mileage, AND the later model gets worse mileage, I was worried - and curious, because I have hit 50 MPG on the highway in this car before. So I guess my "thing" is to see how good a later model, 4 cylinder Swift can do.

As soon as I start getting some more solid results, I plan to start a thread in the "Success Stories" area that concentrate on the results/improvements I get. I'm in the process of building my "hand throttle" now, since I don't have a cruise control. :thumbup:

One thing for sure, though - block off that grille and you'll see a couple more MPG right there!!!

Bill