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-   -   a winning combination : aeromods + inflated tires + P&G + FAS kill switch (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/winning-combination-aeromods-inflated-tires-p-g-fas-14649.html)

groar 09-23-2010 02:45 PM

a winning combination : aeromods + inflated tires + P&G + FAS kill switch
 
This is my winning combination to achieve 200% of EPA :The final result this morning :
http://www.groar.org/EcoModder/20100...km-receipt.jpg
Which is :
  • 59.73L for 1902.2km ie 3.140L/100 and 53.13% saving
  • 15.78gal for 1182.2mi ie 74.91mpg and +113.4% over EPA.
This tank is the first one with the kill switch. I was moderately using manual FASing before. Despite much cooler temps and much heavier traffic, I improved my previous record of 1134.4mi @72.34mpg (+106.1% over EPA) :cool:

Thanks a lot to every people sharing here and making this forum invaluable.

Have fun,

Denis.

Daox 09-23-2010 02:53 PM

Woohoo, VERY impressive groar! :thumbup:

KCF3712 09-23-2010 03:05 PM

Great info!!

supermileage 09-23-2010 10:17 PM

Great!

euromodder 09-24-2010 02:16 PM

Time for a boattail and 2000km/tank ;-)

groar 09-25-2010 09:45 AM

I have been in contact with several policemen lately (*) and a couple told me that I will have to pass a car inspection once I change to definitive mods. Happily my mods will be temporary ones for ever :rolleyes:

I looked at the official web site with the different documents to be filled to ask for an inspection and couldn't find one corresponding to my car as I didn't changed the width, the height, the length (the batman wings must be included ? ;) ), the wheelbase, the motor (sir, this is only a anti-thief system used only when the car is parked, sir), the transmission...

A boat tail will significantly change the length of the car and so will make the inspection mandatory. Also I doubt I would be able to securely tape the boat tail for speeds as high as 130km/h (81mph).

I'm also convinced that I would have been able to reach the 2000km (1243mi) tank if I had my kill switch 1 month sooner.

2 weeks ago I found a flat tire. As i was going to change the front ones before the end of the year, I bought 2 brand new Michelin Energy Saver (**) :) These should be helpful to permit me to reach my next goals :
  • stay under 3.9L/100 (over 60mpg and under Prius II's CO2 rating of 104g/km) all winter
  • attempt the 2000km tank, ie 3.0L/100 (78.4mpg) as soon as possible in spring and
  • attempt the 2.79L/100 (84.11mpg) that real kilo-tanker are achieving with a 45L (11.89gal) tank, ie a 2145.3km (1333.3mi) tank.

(*) one talked to me from his motorcycle for more than 5 minutes during a traffic jam. I start/stop the engine several times during the discussion to stay with the flow.
(**) while they aren't broken in, these aren't as well as the old Michelin Energy (old version of Michelin Energy Saver) I had before, but far better than the spare Michelin MXT I used during one week.

Denis.

Buxtonski 09-25-2010 11:43 AM

Great work indeed!

groar 01-23-2011 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by euromodder (Post 215854)
Denis, how are you pulsing and gliding ?

Most daily commute is on a 90km/h (56mph) freeway, ie 2-3 lanes each way. Trucks are limited to 80km/h (50mph).

Without any traffic, I pulse up to 85km/h (53mph) and glide down to 70km/h (43mph). Of course these speeds are modified by traffic, noticeably if a truck behind me can't pass me then I'll DWL at 80km/h. When it can pass me I slow down as soon as it changes its lane to permit it to pass me faster.

I get on the road in the morning at 6:45am and in the evening before 5:00pm, so the traffic mostly permits me to P&G as I wish.

To glide when I'm at "max speed" :
  • I push down the clutch,
  • tap on the brake to flash the brake lights,
  • keep my right foot over the brake and
  • switch off the engine.
Optionally I change the gear from 5th to 3rd when I think I may need to stop very quickly, so I have both engine brake and brakes.

When I glide I follow this advice : "wait, wait, wait...". When I'm on an empty road, I can glide down to 50km/h (31mph) which is the minimal speed on freeways and highways (excepted on the left lane on highways which is 80km/h = 50mph).

At mid autumn with cold temperatures and lights on I found that using P&G during my 30-40 km (19-25mi) daily commute does impact the battery voltage : when I use my kill switch the airbag resets, but after 20-25 km (12-16mi) the airbag light blinks and the airbag resets only when I bump start.

I got the idea to plug a voltmeter at the 12V plug and found that its voltage was going under 10V :( In fact my engine switches on the heat plugs at each FAS and at each bump start during at least 8 seconds. After tens of P&G, the lights and the cabin fan to get a little bit of heat this is a lot of juice for an old 50Ah lead battery...

I changed that battery with a 70Ah AGM one, used as an OEM one in some German mild hybrids (stop&start systems). The price is twice the one of the cheapest 50Ah lead battery, but I was hoping it could keep a stronger voltage. It was the case during the first week, but during the second week the airbag light was blinking again...

I found that by stopping the cabin fan, and turning the heat at max, I have enough heat into the cabin and prevent the airbag light to blink :)

Since then I'm using P&G as during summer, except when I think I will not be able to glide during more than 12s, then I coast with engine on.

Hope it helps,

Denis.

Arragonis 01-23-2011 11:35 AM

Thanks for info on P&G and how to treat trucks. I worry on some of the motorways here because they are 2 lane and trucks don't like the outside one as they are limted to about 15 mph under what the cars like to do.

Piwoslaw 01-24-2011 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by groar (Post 216408)
To glide when I'm at "max speed" :
  • I push down the clutch,
  • tap on the brake to flash the brake lights,
  • keep my right foot over the brake and
  • switch off the engine.

Why do you tap the brakes? Is it to signal to other drivers that you may be slowing down? Maybe you should have a button to manually turn the brake lights on when EOCing or engine braking, so you don't have to tap the brakes?

Quote:

Originally Posted by groar (Post 216408)
I got the idea to plug a voltmeter at the 12V plug and found that its voltage was going under 10V :( In fact my engine switches on the heat plugs at each FAS and at each bump start during at least 8 seconds. After tens of P&G, the lights and the cabin fan to get a little bit of heat this is a lot of juice for an old 50Ah lead battery...

What you need is a switch to manually turn the glow plugs off! Maybe it could be integrated with the FAS switch? Or actuated by a coolant temperature sensor so that the glow plugs work only when the engine is cold?


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