Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
That's what I thought with mine. Turns out they had all died individually, AND the wire behind the B-pillar panel was corroded.
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I went ahead and ordered/replaced all doors (drivers was still working, but figured, $20... why not). Where do you get the hatch lock actuator thing, though? I can't find it but for $220. OUCH!
Anywho, here's some progress..
Grid charger, ACTIVATE!
New rotor VS old rotor... (at $15 each, seemed worth swapping)
And while doing the brakes, I did the "one man fluid bleed" setup and seemed to work great! Ick...
I also: Changed air filter (old one wasn't dirty, but seal was done for), replaced driver's window system (motor on old one was shot, but got whole assembly just in case), lubricated the other window motor with the official stuff, and got my tint completed (38% ceramic).
Rock Auto sent me the wrong brake pads, so now I'm hunting for new ones. The current ones will work for now... they are low, but not done for. I haven't checked the rears yet, but plan to hopefully soon.
Grid charger on at 144v to start and climbed to 154 in about 10 minutes. I got it going for a little while today, but will let it sit tonight through tomorrow and keep an eye on the voltage.
I have the new rear motor mount, but haven't swapped it yet. Considering pulling the EPS system and making that "fancy" tool to remove the guts, so I can have better steering (and ditch a little weight). I like doing things like that in one shot.
I bought a can of PlastiDip to start freshening up some of the faded and flaking block trim. New PCV valve should take a whopping 1 minute to replace (current one seems good, but preventive maintenance.) Also got a new accessory belt that I'll probably go put on shortly (gonna look up how, lol). Always plenty to do with this car... can't wait to do things that give me some serious MPG!!!