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Old 04-24-2017, 11:37 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teoman View Post
I am examining my torque app values, and at idle, if i have the engine in gear (automatic transmission) then FC is 44 cc/min but if I switch to neutral it becomes 38 cc/min. I can coast in neutral, but if i were to completely shut off the injectors, that would amount to quite some savings.
Yes you are correct, you could realise some savings, however, the autobox does not like to be moved around in neutral with the engine off for long periods of time.

MB recommend disconnected the prop shafts if longer than 20 miles or so towing with the wheels on the ground.

You could probably get 2-8% fuel savings turning the engine off/on and lights though, depending on your journey type.

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Old 04-24-2017, 03:34 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Your install looks pretty sweet. I would have given it an acetone vapour polish if i were you. What printer do you have?

I regret getting an automatic now

I do not want to cause any damage asparts over here are expensive. Do they like being switched to neutral while waiting?
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Old 04-24-2017, 04:06 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teoman View Post
Your install looks pretty sweet. I would have given it an acetone vapour polish if i were you. What printer do you have?

I regret getting an automatic now

I do not want to cause any damage asparts over here are expensive. Do they like being switched to neutral while waiting?
Thanks!

I had to quickly switch filament as I am in the middle of printing another set of stuff. I broke the settings in simplify 3d, used to have really good quality top surfaces!

I have a fairly modified monoprice maker select. Best £300 ever spent.

I think printing the face down would have given a nice finish. I will be replacing the radio soon with a double din head unit so its only temporary. Works well though

Its best to keep them in drive with your foot in the brake. Neutral to drive will wear out the drivetrain (engine mounts, diff mounts, u joints etc) more than just sitting.
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Old 04-28-2017, 03:15 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexander.foti View Post
Not sure whether you had the right materials, but I personally would prefer the following buttons:
GREEN = START
RED = STOP

But otherwise - Nice
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Old 04-28-2017, 03:17 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Piwoslaw View Post
Not sure whether you had the right materials, but I personally would prefer the following buttons:
GREEN = START
RED = STOP

But otherwise - Nice
It seemed to be very hard to find the correct buttons, never mind the right colours I agree, it would have been better. As its done by touch not sight, it works ok.
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:11 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Naah, its ok. I view it as:

DANGER! If you press this button you will waste fuel
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:02 PM   #27 (permalink)
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my dad's 2011 C220 Cdi Blueefficiency start/stops in D. If you brake to a stop and hold the brake pedal while still, it kills the engine. And when i release the brake pedal, the car fires up. The turbine won't be a big resistance at idle, at least it doesn't seem with the C220.

Oh, and the box is 7G-Tronic
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:47 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingie View Post
my dad's 2011 C220 Cdi Blueefficiency start/stops in D. If you brake to a stop and hold the brake pedal while still, it kills the engine. And when i release the brake pedal, the car fires up. The turbine won't be a big resistance at idle, at least it doesn't seem with the C220.

Oh, and the box is 7G-Tronic
The 7G tronic decouples at idle for the stop/start system.

The stop start cars also have a different starter system and do not require 1 entire revolution of the engine to start up again, which would be nice for mine. My starter button requires 1 complete revolution of the engine before it starts.

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