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Old 06-13-2009, 05:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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kill-A-Watt strikes again

I noticed that my freezer light bulbs were failing at a high rate; plugged in the kill a watt opened the door -> closed -> repeat and there was no difference in draw. A quick peel back of my seal confirmed my suspicion, the lights were staying on 24*7 . 80 Watts of heat eliminated from inside my freezer. Anybody want to hazard a guess on savings? 80 watts of lights + 80 watts of cooling. . . . .


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Old 06-13-2009, 06:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Heat pumps tend to have a COP better than one, so you're probably looking at closer to 80W of lighting and 40W of cooling, but that's still about 3kWh/day and $120+/year at the average electricity rate.
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Old 06-14-2009, 01:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The interesting question (to me, anyway) is why the designers would put an 80-watt light bulb in a freezer. Even if it's old enough that white LEDs weren't available, surely 5 watts or so would be plenty.
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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One light bulb to light up to 12 cu.ft. through frozen food products... 80W may not be necessary, but 5w just won't do it. At least not with incandescent lights.

I'd prefer a few LEDS in strips under each shelf, personally.
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Can you switch bulbs to make the best of your situation?
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Old 06-25-2009, 09:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kitaimdao View Post
Can you switch bulbs to make the best of your situation?
Yes; but the way i figure it is the freezer is open about 1 minute/ day so it doesn't matter very much. Now if the lights still stayed on; they would be eliminated.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Take the bulb out completely and put a flash light next to it.
Even better if it is a led flashlight.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Does it have a switch that needs fixed? If not can you install one? LED's do use very little electricity, but it's the principle of it all?
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