07-26-2017, 10:00 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Mounting Flexible Solar Panels
I'm about to install a pair of 180w panels to my van. My plan is to vinyl wrap my roof in chrome (chrome to help offset the heat gain of having a solar panel on the roof) then silicone the panels to that. That way if I ever want to remove them, I won't have messed up paint to deal with, just peel off the wrap
Here's a good article detailing various installation methods:
How many ways to install the flexible solar panels on the camper’s or caravan’s roof?
The main issue I have is cooling. Those panels get really hot. I'm looking for something like coroplast that would give me a bit of air gap but not just melt in the sun. The roof ribs are already fairly deep, so that's better than 100% contact, but on previous install I found that 10mm isn't really enough.
Any ideas?
Last edited by oldtamiyaphile; 07-26-2017 at 10:10 AM..
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07-26-2017, 10:13 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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I like the idea of the aluminium rails in the article. Mounting to a set of roof rails would give an air gap and leave the vehicle standard (if it will take roof rails).
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07-26-2017, 10:16 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Do they make coroplast in a thickness greater than 10mm?
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07-26-2017, 01:21 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Coroplast is an exemplar of a category.
https://www.google.com/search?q=doub...l+fluted+panel
Metal, polycarbonate, filled with insulation, etc.
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09-21-2017, 01:34 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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First panel is done.
Chrome wrap, 10mm fluted polycarb (intended for roofing), panel on top. All fixed with VHB tape. I ran a strip of alluminum over the front of the panel just in case. It's screwed to the factory roof rack points (I have 10 mounting points so I can spare a couple).
Top Tip: Flute polycarb is much cheaper in short pieces than in longer lengths. A 2400 long sheet was $120, I bought 3x1200 sheets for $60. It means one join under each panel, not a big deal.
The temperature of my roof is the same under the panel as it is without, so happy with that.
So far I'm seeing approximately 0.2l/100km gain. Less than I expected, but then that's why I ordered two panels. I wanted to run a single panel for a while just in case the second panel wasn't necessary. As we head towards summer, the gain can only increase.
As the panel smooths my ribbed roof for only a tiny frontal area increase, I should have better aero too.
Last edited by oldtamiyaphile; 09-21-2017 at 02:20 AM..
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09-21-2017, 01:51 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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It looks like you have broken links in images, at least i cannot see them. Still, sounds like great work. Did you delete an altermator, lessen the alt load, or is the gain you mentioned just from a better aero?
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09-21-2017, 02:28 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Images fixed
I have a factory 'smart' alternator so it automatically cuts back based on the panel input. If you have a 'standard' alternator, based on my previous panels installed on older vans, you probably won't see a measurable gain. My hope is with the second panel (360W) the alternator will only be providing a charge at night, lights on etc.
If that's not enough I have space to add a third panel across the front still.
I also have stop/ start, and with the panel it's able to activate about twice as often as it previously did. The second panel should mean stop start will work almost 100% of the time. I used to use an A/C charger once a week and that always gave me improved economy in the morning. Unfortunately the battery was already weak by the time I got into the city. I drive 90% city, 26km/h avg around 22km with 22 lights, so the stop start cops a beating. Renault say it's good for 400,000 cycles, I hope so. I do try to take the highway home once in a while.
Now when the engine switches off I can still see the battery holding about 12.6v with the A/C fan and radio, GPS, dash cams, drl's, stop lights etc running. Previously it would dip to 12.0 or slightly lower pretty quick.
The smart alt is pretty good, on a charged battery it will just sit on 11.7 volts while I cruise, only ramping up under braking, but as a hypermiler, there's not really much energy to recapture, so I find my battery is always pretty low. The solar panels seem to be helping at cruise I usually see around 12.0 now.
Last edited by oldtamiyaphile; 09-21-2017 at 02:39 AM..
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09-21-2017, 02:57 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Since I have actually have put these kinds of flexible solar panels on vehicle roofs I say just alattach the panel and leave it. Don't over complicate the situation.
Since you have solar panels why not unbelt the alt and disconnect field power?
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09-21-2017, 03:18 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
Since I have actually have put these kinds of flexible solar panels on vehicle roofs I say just alattach the panel and leave it. Don't over complicate the situation.
Since you have solar panels why not unbelt the alt and disconnect field power?
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I've heard of people scorching their paint when just attaching panels to their Sprinters. I have nice paint. I didn't have the FLIR back then but I know my old Mercedes van roof got really hot to touch with just the 10mm air gap from the roof ribs. With most of my roof now covered in panels, I really didn't fancy searching for something in the back of the van on a hot day. The panels should last longer too. The polycarb panels made the install simpler too as I cut them to match my roof ribs, then had a nice flat space to attach the solar panels to.
With a smart alt, all I really have is an idler pulley (with small windage losses), but I still have regenerative braking and no worries if it's over cast or night time. With a serpentine belt I'd still have to have an idler pulley. The van still has 4 years of factory warranty, so it's best not to mess with too much. Also, I'd probably loose the factory stop/ start, possible CANBUS issues, etc etc.
Last edited by oldtamiyaphile; 11-21-2017 at 08:05 PM..
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