[RH77]

Thanks for the replies guys...

I forgot to mention that the radiator is about 2-years old -- the stock model had a small leak at the crimped top. The system was flushed, and a new rad was installed (basically the biggest failure/replacement).

It just smells hot most of the time. After inspecting the overflow bottle, it's rarely even warm and doesn't seem to be transferring fluid (no leaks or whatnot). The water pump and pulleys were replaced 60K miles ago with the timing belt. 20K more miles to the planned timing belt/water pump/pulleys/belts replacement.

Even without A/C usage, fan engagement draws a considerable power at cruise. You can feel a distinct power loss on engagement, then a burst of efficient power when they release. This is an old problem, though. But yeah, the fans engage when the A/C is on. If I'm in work attire, I modulate the air: recirc with 75% blower, and manual compressor start/stop (off up hills and from a stop; back to On during decel / steady cruise it comes back on).

The reason for the concern is the change in temp compared to similar conditions last year this time...

Regarding the T-stat, a distinct improvement was noted when the hotter variety was installed ~3 years ago. Whether its the oil, or other factors at work, that may be the last option. In the Winter, it's nearly a necessity.

So, it looks like I need a coolant flush to start, with a different percentage mixture. I perform 90% of the work myself, but responsibly disposing of the coolant is tough. Is there still the requirement to attach a garden hose and run water through? If not, I can likely collect the contents for recycling.

In the meantime, the license plate is getting moved. I know it opens-up that huge air dam, but we gotta do what we gotta do.

Any second opinions on the Water Wetter product?

Thanks!

RH77