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Old 10-30-2009, 08:15 PM   #2522 (permalink)
jyanof
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
Hey Ben! Basically, you have to *somehow* solder on the little 3 pronged thing. It's going to be a tight fit getting a soldering iron in there. You could insert the 3 pronged thing, then heat the metal legs of the 3 prongs, and then melt the solder that way?
the male serial connector needs to be soldered to the control board? eek, that seems like a daunting task if you can't easily access the bottom of the board.

Maybe you can get a small iron in there to heat both the pad and the pin without removing the board. You can try heating from the top, feeding solder from the bottom, and try to use the molten solder to heat the pad, but I've tried similar things with mosfet legs without luck. maybe put the controller upside down so that gravity is on your side.

If you end up needing to remove the board to get to the underside, the two heavy guage wires make it a pain in the butt (I had to do it in order to add the little diodes). If you can heat em both at the same time, shouldn't be too hard to remove. Otherwise, you'll eventually get it off by heating each individually and going back and forth.

Once you get those out (assuming you've removed the nuts too), the board will rotate up while still connected by the gate resistors. Now you have access to the bottom and can solder away.

Now, the problem becomes soldering those two heavy guage wires once you're done. I had trouble fitting them back through the board with the old solder clogging it up. Additionally, I screwed up the pads because it took a lot of heat to get those wires out of there. So, I did the work-around as shown in the picture below.

I trimmed the heavy guage wire down so it wouldn't hit the board. Then, soldered the red wire to it while the board was rotated away and covered with electrical tape. Then, I was able to solder the other end of the red wire to the control board while having access to the bottom of the board. I now know I have a good solder joint and am able to rotate the board back down and secure down with the nuts.

hopefully you don't have to do that, but just in case you (or anyone else) really really have to access the bottom of the board, this is an option.

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ReVolt AZ testing thread:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ting-9325.html
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