Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
Okay, I finally got a chance to look through the service manual. According to it, the thermostat should start to open up at 176-183°F. So, it looks like I'm going to be needing a new thermostat.
I also looked up at what temp my fan kicks in and its no big surprise that its on at 201°F. This is about the max temp I have hit so far. So, it sounds like my fan is probably kicking in quite a bit. I wish there was an easy way to monitor when its on vs off. I thought about splicing in a relay that powered a light, but I'd rather not cut into the wiring. In any case, I need to get the temp back down so I can go ahead with the aero mods and such.
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Once you assure that your thermostat is working correctly, or install another T-stat with somewhat higher heat range, you may want to reconsider the amount of radiator blockage you have installed.
A small elliptical inlet (long axis horizontal) at the stagnation point on the nose of the car will add little or no drag, yet let the radiator breathe better. Proper outlet of cooling air is just as important (or moreso) than inlet design. A quick tuft test will tell you the stagnation point at highway speed. Unfortunately, this is at the license plate mount in many cars, and may mean moving the license plate.
NACA did a lot of work on cowl flaps and outlets for recip. engines during WWII, taking the best ideas from aircraft of any country, including Germany and Japan. Geometry of outlets back into the slipstream is a big deal, as the outlet acts like the gills of a fish--drawing the spent cooling air out via Venturi effect, a much more subtle and efficient method than brute force ramming it down the inlet throat. Fast fishes like tuna and shark would not be fast (or get breakfast) if they had to swim with their mouths wide open. Instead, they'd
be breakfast.