Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000
Thermostats work over a temperature range. For example, a 180* t-stat will start opening when it hits 180*, but won't be full open until about 195 - 200.
Also, my OEM temp gauge reads actual temp. It does vary with fan cycling, etc. in traffic.
In addition, in most vehicles, the heater core is part of the engine's internal cooling loop (inside the thermostat). In mine, even before the t-stat opens, for example, with the temp gauge reading 130*, I can get warm air from the heater if I turn it on. Every other vehicle I've driven has been the same way. The water pump still moves coolant in the block, even with the t-stat closed. The flow is just less, due to a typically small bypass hose.
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All this makes sense too as it doesn't really contradict what I said. I didn't mean that the heater was on the other side of the thermostat, only that the water wasn't moving well thru it, thus the water wasn't hot.
I just talked to my brother who is the mechanic of the family.
I never had to learn much about mechanics being I was a bodyman and he was a mechanic (shop owner for 30 years) and he agreed with most everything said here.
First off, the thermostat isn't FULLY opening until "around" the advertised degree, taking 10 or more degrees before it fully opens. The rad cover is most importantly (as already pointed out here) to not allow air to go thru the engine compartment speeding up the motors heating.
I have never talked to him about this stuff and it was darn interesting to hear how much he understood about it. Being he is much more of a racer than an ecomodder it was darn interesting being we are just talking about facts regarding the funtion of a car.
He did say that if you have any wonders about the thermostat, put on in a pot of water on the stove and monitor the temp while watching it open.
All very interesting stuff, thanks guys!
Brian