Getting the motor hot faster.

[comptiger5000]

Thermostats work over a temperature range. For example, a 180* t-stat will start opening when it hits 180*, but won't be full open until about 195 - 200.

Also, my OEM temp gauge reads actual temp. It does vary with fan cycling, etc. in traffic.

In addition, in most vehicles, the heater core is part of the engine's internal cooling loop (inside the thermostat). In mine, even before the t-stat opens, for example, with the temp gauge reading 130*, I can get warm air from the heater if I turn it on. Every other vehicle I've driven has been the same way. The water pump still moves coolant in the block, even with the t-stat closed. The flow is just less, due to a typically small bypass hose.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by comptiger5000

Thermostats work over a temperature range. For example, a 180* t-stat will start opening when it hits 180*, but won't be full open until about 195 - 200.

Also, my OEM temp gauge reads actual temp. It does vary with fan cycling, etc. in traffic.

In addition, in most vehicles, the heater core is part of the engine's internal cooling loop (inside the thermostat). In mine, even before the t-stat opens, for example, with the temp gauge reading 130*, I can get warm air from the heater if I turn it on. Every other vehicle I've driven has been the same way. The water pump still moves coolant in the block, even with the t-stat closed. The flow is just less, due to a typically small bypass hose.

All this makes sense too as it doesn't really contradict what I said. I didn't mean that the heater was on the other side of the thermostat, only that the water wasn't moving well thru it, thus the water wasn't hot.

I just talked to my brother who is the mechanic of the family. I never had to learn much about mechanics being I was a bodyman and he was a mechanic (shop owner for 30 years) and he agreed with most everything said here.

First off, the thermostat isn't FULLY opening until "around" the advertised degree, taking 10 or more degrees before it fully opens. The rad cover is most importantly (as already pointed out here) to not allow air to go thru the engine compartment speeding up the motors heating.

I have never talked to him about this stuff and it was darn interesting to hear how much he understood about it. Being he is much more of a racer than an ecomodder it was darn interesting being we are just talking about facts regarding the funtion of a car.

He did say that if you have any wonders about the thermostat, put on in a pot of water on the stove and monitor the temp while watching it open.

All very interesting stuff, thanks guys!

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Something just dawned on me! I was trying to figure out how to KNOW if the water was circulating and something hit me. The coolent is under pressure. With every pound of pressure it raises the boiling point 10 degrees (as I remember that is the number). Well, if you were to be able to open the system it would allow a much faster warm up, wouldn't it?

Brian

[comptiger5000]

I've run engines at idle to warm them up when working on them, both normally and with the rad cap off (purging air from system). Having the cap off doesn't seem to warm them up any faster. Changing the boiling point has no effect on warmup time. Plus, if you do boil the coolant, you have BIG issues.

[jamesqf]

Or instead of theoretical discussions, you can try the experimental method. Just put the block in - on my Insight it's just a piece of coroplast that slides between the radiator and the A/C condenser - and see if the engine warms up faster. It does on the Insight - on a cold day, it takes about 5 miles of the road into town to hit 195F with the block, without it takes 10-12. YMMV, of course.

[ex-x-fire]

I know this is impractical, but a waterpump that is driven by an electric motor would help it warm up quick, make it cycle when cold & run full time when it's hot.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by ex-x-fire

I know this is impractical, but a waterpump that is driven by an electric motor would help it warm up quick, make it cycle when cold & run full time when it's hot.

LOL, 90% of what we do ecomodding is "impractical". But does it get you further on a gallon of gas?

It's like a friend of mine who is a avid cyclist. The other day he bought two new bolts for his water bottle cage. They are made out of titainium or something and save him a couple of ounces! They cost 10 bucks or something and they save him a couple of OUNCES of weight. Impractical, yep, but he bought them. That and a zillion other things and he can go faster and further than before.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by jamesqf

Or instead of theoretical discussions, you can try the experimental method.

You are as right as rain, and I will be doing just that this weekend.

Thanks, Brian

[comptiger5000]

Cycling the water pump on and off is a BAD idea. The off cycles would have to be very short, and only at minimal to no throttle. Otherwise, you'd get hot spots around the cylinders, when the rest of the block is cold, and that could make for a warped or cracked block or cylinder heads.

[bgd73]

never cover the radiator.. even my dad in his rig climbing through way below zero in northern maine learned a lesson on this..

never ever cover the radiator.


given the SHO is a flyin sideways at 1500 degrees on the backside...
the problem must be something stuck open in the cooling system. Try checking thermostat, even fluid levels, bad guage, clogged heater...all kinds of stuff.

the sho is the top 1 in all crazy sideways hot rods.. there is not a chance in heck it takes awhile to warm up...unless there is an error. find the problem.. do not cover it up.